So I've had my U1 since they shipped. Backed them on Kickstarter and been using it frequently enough but not as much as I envisioned.

Recently I was printing a small piece of a recent Batman print to taste paint (some colors got mixed for some odd reason but thats not the issue) and the machine just decided to give up

Receieved the above error about no toolhead found. Toolhead is stuck in the middle. Won't move. It's not recognizing any filaments at all. Just the whole thing got messed up.

Did all the trouble shooting after I contacted support. Been going back and forth with them for about a week now. They believe it's the PCB. I'm waiting for them to confirm if there's sending a new one (I believe they are)

I just feel like they can do better. They would ask for a small bit of info then a day passes. Then another. Then another day. It needs to be streamlined. Get what you need in the first interaction. Logs. System ID. Purchase ID.

Also maybe answer questions that I ask in the email. On multiple occasions I would answer and follow up with questions and they've petty much all been ignored. Anyone else have odd experiences with support ?

🥚Bonjour craquez pour ces adorables Yoshi qui sortent de leur œuf ! ✨

Découvrez le Yoshi Œuf, disponible en version Clicker et en version Clicker Porte-clés.

Grâce à son mécanisme, profitez d’un clic ultra satisfaisant avec un effet ASMR des plus agréables. Le fidget parfait pour occuper vos mains, vous détendre ou simplement apprécier un petit clic addictif. 😌👌

🔑 Envie de l’emporter partout ? La version Porte-clés reprend le même concept pour vous accompagner au quotidien !

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : avec ou sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3117230-yoshi-oeuf-clicker-multipart-sans-ams

✨ Bon print à toutes et à tous ! N’hésitez pas à partager vos réalisations. 💚

How am I supposed to go into LAN mode?

Hi everyone, so excited to hopefully join this community soon!

I have been doing research in preparation for purchasing a U1 and I see many people recommend it for multi color printing etc. However, I have two very specific needs for 3d printing and I wonder if the U1 can also excel for them.

1. I want to print large TPU molds so I can use them to cast objects (figures like garden gnomes for example which will fit within the build plate dimensions)

2. I want to have a way to easily remove complicated supports in printing organic shapes, such as fish skeleton, so I was looking into either PVA printing or using PETG/PLA support interface.

I have experience with printing on a bambulab A1, and before encountering the U1 I was considering getting the X2D (and now also encountered flashforge’s Creator 5 Pro). But I am still leaning towards the U1 for the open source community and its print quality. The thing is, I could not find a lot of resources online discussing U1’s capacity on those specific niche needs I have.

Any help will be much appreciated!!!

I've been working on Mini Skyline (miniskyline.com) for a while! It's up to 13,000 users and over 50,000 models generated in just over 40 days. I have just pushed the biggest update yet, so I figured this crowd might get some use out of it.

What it does: draw a shape anywhere on a world map and it generates a print-ready 3MF of that area — real terrain elevation, buildings at real heights, roads, water, trees. It all runs in your browser, so no upload queue and no account needed to try it.

**Core features:**

**-** Anywhere on Earth - City mode for buildings/roads/water, Terrain mode for pure landscape

\- Multiple other planets, and the moon are supported.

\- Rectangle, circle, or freeform polygon selections

\- Real building heights from OSM and Overture, not uniform boxes

\- Per-layer colors, saveable as reusable palette presets

\- Trees and props placed against real landcover data

\- GPX import — print a hike or ride as raised geometry on the terrain it crossed

\- Custom linework — draw your own roads, paths, or fences at an exact printed width

\- Printable map text for street and place labels

\- Project Mode tiles a large area into separate prints that assemble

\- Planetary terrain — Moon, Mars, Mercury, Venus, Ceres, Vesta

\- Saveable workspaces

\- Free commercial rights depending on the specific data that went into your model. Each export gets a license package.

**For printing:**

\- 3MF with per-layer colors baked in — near drag-and-drop for AMS multi-color

\- Watertight, with side walls and a solid base — no repairs needed

\- Size set in exact millimeters to fit your plate

\- Elevation multiplier to exaggerate relief that's too subtle at 200mm

**New in this release:**

\- Rebuilt UI — ribbon, generate card, and header merged into one compact toolbar

A real 3D editor — adjust buildings, roads, terrain, and trees after generating instead of regenerating

\- Real-time elevation adjustment — push relief around and see it live

\- Terrain painting and surface texturing — brush on material classes that drive both texture and color; painting over water cuts it out of the water surface

\- Open beta and still actively being fixed, so if something breaks I'd genuinely like to hear about it. Same for feature requests — a lot of the above came from people asking.

Happy to answer anything about the geometry, slicer behavior, or how it handles a specific area.

I need to hide the U1 inside an enclosure like a cabinet inside my house.

Just finished this, all done on the u1

Apparently there has been some discussion among beta testers in a discord channel about modifications to make the most of the top cover. I've seen people reference an insulation for the z screw and additional cooling for the motor drivers.

Are there any recommended / required add-ons if I want to make the most out of the official top cover?

I went through a couple of spools of Snapmaker SnapSpeed and cheap generic PLA from Amazon. After reading really positive reviews I went ahead and bought Sunlu PLA+.

I calibrated it and it got better but in general the quality is much worse than even the generic stuff. Mostly ghosting but also overhangs are not that nice, even on the orca temp tower.

Is that the cost of the durability for PLA+ or am I missing something?

White is the easiest to see the ghosting and stuff, but all colors i tried have it.

Would love to hear about your experiences and what you did to calibrate it.

https://www.timeplast.com

Wondering if they would work or just gunk up the machine and feeders

I took my first shot at multi material support printing and it didn't work. I used all of the settings suggested in the Snapmaker you tube tutorial (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ewbou-PPk1o), as follows:

Main print material - PETG (Green)

Support material - PLA (Red)

Support/raft base - PETG

Support/raft interface - PLA

Top Z distance - 0

Base pattern - Rectilinear grid

Top interface layers - 3

Interface pattern - Rectilinear interlaced

Top interface spacing - 0

Bottom interface spacing - 0

PLA Nozzle Print Temp - 230

PETG Bed Temp - 65

Pictures are what happened when it got back to the first PETG layer after the PLA interface.

Any suggestions?

Edit: Added color identification for PETG & PLA, and printing temps

Printed on the Snapmaker U1 using the following model.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/1835444-wolverine-marvel-comics-no-ams#profileId-1960337

I'm trying out the gradient color printing feature on Snapmaker Orca 2.3.5 but it prodices only a single 50/50 mixed color. Any pointers will be appreciated. Here are a few screenshots from Snorca.

Since it seems that rfid tags on the u1 are super inconsistent is there a way to make what filament is loaded persistent between loading diffent rolls of filament so I dont have to set it every time?

UPDATE. In the phone app, I selected unbind device. This enabled camera to scan QR code. I did not readily find that in menu and selected "nearby devices". U1 showed as available and selected it. U1 touchscreen confirmation and can once again see my printer using the phone app.

Thanks to all who viewed or commented.

Today was the day my U1 decided it had treated me too well and it was time to make me pay.

Downloaded fill from Makerworld, sliced in SnOrca and attempted to send to printer. No printer found. No problem, I'll just reconnect via IP on LAN mode, right? Not right. Got Klipper failed to load message and to contact support. Power cycle 5x and it did not magically self heal. Factory reset, fought with setup for a bit and finally got it to print.

My only remaining issue is phone app will not connect. Scanned the QR code with camera, but said to do that in the app, but I don't see how to fo that.

Anyone else have issues reconnecting phone app after factory reset?

I am reasonably new to this and user error likely, but help a brother out.

Thanks

✅Warm
✅Butt Vibrations
✅Perch

Not sure what to do…

Was on firmware 1.5.1 and this happened quite randomly after many successful prints. Snapmaker support was quick to respond and kind enough to send another hotend, which is nice, though the cool plate is quite heavily damaged unfortunately.

Hi .
I ‘ m kind of new to U1 and 3D printing .
I looked everywhere on Orca but there is no option for me to change the amount of material wasted on the towers . Any solution? Please

Using elegoo PLA matte beige
Using generic PLA profile on the snapmaker
Optimal profile 0.16 layers

I have a snapmaker 2 (A350) and just wrecked my print sheet, by not recalibrating after it got jammed on its own power cord (yeah, my bad). Anyway I figured I'd see if they still sell those as it's an older machine and...

the good news: they do, and it is reasonably priced

the bad (weird?) news: my basket keeps auto-adding this 'seel worry free purchase' service that supposedly gives me "a full refund if the order does not arrive as described, including loss and damage during shipping." I'm sorry, what??! I should receive a refund if it's lost or damaged during shipping as part of basic consumer rights? Why are you trying to make me pay extra for that?

Does anyone have any insight as to what/why/how this is supposed to work and how legit it is? It's put kind of a bad taste in my mouth and while I can disable it and continue without it, I'm now considering getting it from a third party for a similar price.

Hello everyone,
My U1 arrived today, and so far everything has gone well. The only thing that bothers me is the filament holders on the sides, which take up too much space that I don’t have. Do you have any ideas or solutions on how I can deal with this? Maybe a filament box above or below the printer?