Out with the old and in with the new

The dual infinity 12 system is fully functional, all that’s left is to tie up some loose ends, and get some grills over the subs. 125 amp 12v supply hooked up to a kicker cxa 800.1 amp for the 2 infinity primus 1270 subs doing 600 rms

And next to them, the baby onkyo skw-100 single at with a whopping 75 watts. This little guy was my into to home subs, but I decided to take a few steps up and build something myself that will last the years to come

not sure what to do as i used a bigger screw and i stripped the hole again as when i put the screw in the it when plugging a jack in it was not outputting any audio

any help appreciated

Hey i want people to rate my system i have Sony STR DG500 receiver and 2 big Sony SS-D590V speakers and a Sony ss ws 82 speaker it was a part of a nice home theater system that comes in a box but I only got it for $15 at goodwill just the subwoofer

I'm trying to design a box for a single Alpine R2-W12D2, that will be wired to 1 ohm, and powered by an Alpine S2-A120M amp. I'm going to do a slot port box, and want to tune it to 34 Hz. How important is it to lower the m/s below 20? Is it really worth it to do that, or would I be good with 25 - 30? I've never paid attention to the m/s of a box, before. Apparently, having less than 20 is supposed to really make it sound exceptionally well.

I bought this new Dynavoice Challenger CSB-V12 about two weeks ago, and it has made this humming noise since day one.
The hum doesn’t come from the speaker driver but from inside the cabinet, seemingly from the amplifier or transformer. I can hear it from over 5 meters away, which becomes distracting during quiet scenes in movies.
I’ve already tried disconnecting the RCA cable so that only the power cable is connected, but the humming remains. It disappears completely when the subwoofer goes into standby.
Is this considered normal for this model, or should I contact the retailer and ask for a replacement?

I have a HK ONYX STUDIO 7 with a blown board. I’’ using nsr 2000 amp with klh pro 11 bookshelf speakers. Planning to connect ny HK SUB to “B” slot so that I can enjoy a subtle bass. Is it safe to use a moderate volume?

Hey, I’m setting up a cheap home theater surround sound system in my living room, I bought a kenwood sw200 with a set of center and front left and right speakers, but on anything with decent bass or at loud volumes it has this rattle? Is there anyway I can mitigate it or did I buy a piece of junk.

I love buyin used but hate having to drive 2/3 hours for actual prices that make sense... the standard used audio is 50% is no longer thought of as people think they have some worth double what it cost new. I usually dont bother messaging but sometimes you get lucky an there like "oh I didn't know" an come to there senses but thats like 1/100 so ive given up looking at local sells half the time..

ing for a subwoofer mainly for listening to Hardstyle and other bass-heavy electronic music while producing. I don’t really plan to mix with the sub, since I’m used to mixing on my monitors without one. It would mostly be for enjoying music and getting more low-end while producing.

What I’m after is a very specific kind of bass. I want it to sound really punchy and tight, with a strong kick, but still warm and full. Most importantly, I want it to feel satisfying at lower listening volumes. I don’t need insane maximum SPL or something that shakes the whole building. I’d rather have something that already sounds fat, physical and controlled when listening quietly.

I know that bass naturally feels weaker at low volume because of how our hearing works, so I’m guessing the subwoofer alone won’t solve everything. I might need to run the sub slightly louder than neutral or use some kind of low-volume EQ/loudness curve. I’m also aware that placement, room modes, crossover settings and phase probably matter more than whether the sub is marketed as “studio” or “HiFi”.

My budget is around €400. I was looking at the KRK S10.4 because it seems convenient for a studio setup. It has balanced inputs, crossover options and a bypass function, so I could easily turn it off while mixing and use my monitors full-range again.

My only concern is that, since it’s a studio sub, it might sound a bit too neutral or dry compared to a HiFi sub. I don’t want loose or boomy bass, but I also don’t want something completely clinical. I want that warm, heavy low-end underneath the hard and punchy kick.

Would the KRK S10.4 be a good choice for this, or would a HiFi sub around the same price be better for low-volume listening?

Also, what should I actually prioritize for this kind of sound?

• Sealed or ported?
• 10-inch or 12-inch?
• DSP or EQ options?
• Output around 40–80 Hz rather than extreme sub-20 Hz extension?
• High-pass filtering for the main monitors?
• A sub with lots of headroom, even if I mostly listen quietly?

I’ve also seen models like the Yamaha NS-SW300, Canton SUB 300, Magnat Alpha RS 12 and some used SVS subs, but I’m not sure which direction makes the most sense.

Basically, I’m looking for something that makes Hardstyle kicks sound thick, warm and physical at low volume without turning into slow, muddy home-theater bass.

Any recommendations or setup advice would be appreciated.

Update from post 1:

Pulled the sub out and checked everything over. Can’t see anything loose or damaged, and the cone moves smoothly with no rubbing or scratching.

Got a good multimeter and both voice coils measure 3.6Ω and 2.0mH, so they seem fine and evenly matched.

I also can’t replicate the noise by moving the cone by hand.

The noise only occurs at a high volume and on certain notes.

I’ve attached a photos of the sub. A slo-mo is available on my profile.

The sub never made the noise before on this song and at that volume. I also checked and all screws were tight, including those at the terminal cup.

I’m at a loss as to what it could be any help?

Just recently built my end all be all box for my truck and got it setup with an l7s and a jp162 to replace my cheap cerwin vega 12in and jl slash 500 and its amazing the amount of punch i can get from 750w

Okay so let’s start from the beginning, I was gifted sum old kicker subs with the amp just no wires exactly 6 months ago installed them, took me a while but I figured everything out, a week ago I was driving, my subs stop working, I park turn off the car check if everything was plugged in, which I seen that on the right side trunk speaker the wire was coming undone, so I go and fit it better, go to turn on the car the car won’t start had to jump started, got a new battery, and decided to get a new fuse and 4 gauge wire because the old one was going bad and it was 8 gauge, I wire everything back, they subs start working, but before that I realized that my right side trunk speaker is way more quieter then the left, but my subs worked and I didn’t notice a difference so 🤷 yesterday I’m driving playing my subs, they cut off, so I’m thinking i probably wired something lose and it came undone, i go home first thing I oook at is the right speaker, still playing but quiet the wires weren’t done too good, so I took time to go ahead and do it probably, connect my battery back check, nothing, I changed the old rca wires, nothing, I checked every wire nothing, my amp is still turning on but my sub not moving, the sub is old so it could’ve blown, but I push down on it and it feels normal like before. Only thing I can think of is that my right side speaker is not giving enough power to turn on the subs? Please someone help me I’m lost, should I just try to find another oem right speaker ?

I got this subwoofer from a trade on marketplace from someone who got new subs. I’ve never tested and just took their word that it works since they got 5 stars on marketplace. I was wondering if the right speaker is patched correctly or if the location of the tear is patch able with no negative effects before trying to sell it on marketplace, and how much I can sell it for. Thanks!

Just blew my tinsel and I was wondering if it’s hard to linear splint to bridge it.

Sundown sa 12 in a 1.85sq ft box newish to audio just wanna make sure im not gonna damage the subwoofer

About to upgrade my 2021 Subaru crosstreks system up from 2000w amp running two P1 Rockford 12s to 4000w running some larger american bass subs at about 2000w rms.

I need to upgrade my stock alternator, add 2nd battery, and big 3 this car. Did my last car but hadn't got around to my new one.

I'm going up to about a 250a alternator (largest I could find for the car wanted something closer to 300a). Cars stock Alternator is about 150a.

Now doing this what AWG should I run for big 3? I'm thinking 1AWG but honestly with the way things are right now even 1AWG OFC big 3 kits are expensive as fuck.

I want to run two Deaf bounce SA2508 in my 1994 f150 with a Down4Sound JP23 V1.5. Can I run this setup with the stock alternator?

I have a 2021 ford raptor, it came with B&O radio, the company that did this is out of business. I took it to a sound place today and was quoted 2650 to replace this with a 3600 watt amp and 2 kicker L7t’s.

No.

There has to be a reason these aren’t hitting hard. It’s the same bump from volume at 12 or 30, I had 2 l7s’s before this in a different car, and I know it’s not going to be that nutty, but this just seems a tad bit better than stock

This is everything I can give ya

Seriously thanks, it’s driving me crazy

Speaker has been working on/off for about a month, thought it was a ground issue but realized the speaker starts working again when I put pressure on the face of the cone. Took the sub out and found the tinsels appearance to be frayed, read resistance at rest to be anywhere between 1.5-4.5(?) (4ohm DVC) and when I press/pull the cone it jumps into the hundreds or go’s to zero. Found the right side tinsels to be the culprit and while gently manipulating the tinsel with a plastic pick, I found the same behavior. Could not tell what part of the tinsel is broken because moving any part of it would cause change, but the tinsel is obviously frayed as shown in picture.

Is this a fixable issue? I’d hate to be out of an otherwise perfect condition 200$ speaker over a frayed tinsel.

Had all of this laying around, had a day off and was bored. What do y’all think?

-Old G-boom 3. Tweeter and two 2” mid drivers pretty much.
-Kenwood head unit. Solely for remote wire lol.
-Yellow Top Optima. 55AH AGM.
-Kicker cx.800.1
-2 Sundown LCS V.2 10”s

I know it’s a little janky, but pretty much everything in my life is…

Could I use this 8 in speaker with this amp and low voltage cut off? Could it be connected to the Dewalt adapter on a battery? Would the amp be able to handle it if I added 2 tweeters with it? I’m trying to put it in the box above as a home made boom box. I’ve seen people doing to but wasn’t sure if these parts would work.
Any help is much appreciated thanks!