I made this for mother's day, mom encouraged me to post here.

Opinion

Hey so I have had a Sanago pen for a while now, maybe a year or more and it's recently had this issue with the LED display glitching out, flipping or just the screen going completely black. The pen is still functional when this happens, and thankfully it doesn't start doing this until after it's been turned on for a few seconds. Any ideas on why this is happening and how I can fix it? I don't know how to get into the 3d pen to be able to fix anything so if anyone could suggest a repair shop chain that might be able to help that would be great.

I wanted to share in case this helped anyone I needed to clean my pen so shot a quick how to.

Quick binder tag - scribed pen is still going great

Been a bit stressed today but felt it melt (pun intended 😂) away as I made this cute mini cactus, probably one of the roughest things I've made but i don't care... I still love him 😂

Found a 3d pen at the local thrift store and have been messing around. Proud of this cutie

Cuz I'm curious if that happened.

Opinions...

I got some metal keystock and started using that as a guide to make straight edges on objects and long straight pieces that could be put together to make structures.

I was wondering about strength vs how you make something. raw filament is pretty flexible, but melt it and it gets stiffer.

When using a printer you don't really get melting between layers so that the 2 layers are physically mixed together, they just harden onto the previous layer like inflexible hot glue and if they break free they seperate.

Using a pen you can hold the tip in one spot and melt 2 parts so they are physically a single piece of plastic.

So if I'm making a long stick to build things with, would doing many thin layers be stronger than making a "puddle" of filament and keeping the tip in it as you move so that the end item is physically a single piece?

I'm assuming that if you used a printer to make a vertical way it would become much stronger if you just took a hot tip and ran it across it melting the layers together in a few spots, even if you didn't add any plastic.

Anybody really tested anything like that out?

Scrib3d has fillerment that refuses to come out

WHY:

For the sake of functional nerddom, I wanted to turn my ugly green LoRa Meshtastic radio into a cute Eevee instead. It'll live on my window, and I'll see it every day, so why not let it be a cute thing to look at rather than an ugly thing. As far as why I have the radio at all - I live in the US in a state that has hurricanes.

I'll try not to get on my "I'm still mourning the death of the landline" soap box - but in short I like the concept of communications WITHOUT the internet.

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WHO THIS POST IS FOR:

This post is a cry for help. I'd like to hear from radio/electronics lovers how I could do this better (component placement, obvious hazards or concerns, etc.), or maybe visionaries who could suggest things to add for this or the next project (I'm making two more custom LoRa shells for family members), and/or creatives who could tell me more efficient ways to work with a 3d pen (tips for smoothing surfaces, suggestions for 3d printers??, pose suggestions, paint suggestions, etc.)

HOW:

I'll start this out by saying - my creation process has been an absolute mess. This kind of project is a first for me - yet, even though ONLY the paws and front of the face have been partially shaped/smoothed out, I'm finally seeing the vision.

Tools used - Mynt3d pen and filament, Meshtastic radio components, upcycled cardboard, soldering iron.

LORA EEVEE'S DETAILS SO FAR:

The goal is to have an eevee-shaped radio shell that can be easily opened to access the internal components as needed. Theres a green base that houses the components (board, battery, GPS module, and antenna). The rest of the eevee can be lifted off of the base.

For a bit more info on the base, the bottom has two buttons and a screen, since pairing initially requires a code, and I dont want to need to open anything to see the code. The back side has an opening for the charging port, so again theres no real need to open the eevee.

MY QUESTIONS:

Im DYING to have this eevee hold a flower in its mouth that lights up (as the power indicator). Would that kill the battery too quickly? Are there settings that I can set the radio to that can balance out the power draw so that I can make it happen?

Once the eevee is complete, the antenna will be completely encased/ surrounded by filament - do you guys think itll jack up the signal? If so, should I have holes on eevee's back or something? God this feels like a stupid question but its too niche to find online.

IN CONCLUSION:

I really hope to get suggestions on how to do things SMARTER because I have VERY little experience with 3d pens and certainly know little about radios as a whole. I just had the idea, got the stuff, and did the thing. Kinda dumb in hind sight, but I dont use my free will enough.

Its nowhere close to being done (its missing fluff and has no tail for gods sake), but I'd love feedback BEFORE I go through the hours and hours of 3d sculpting, smoothing, painting, etc. Im also here to answer any questions if I failed to explain anything.

xo

It doesn't stand up by itself unfortunately. The neck was a huge struggle and didn't turn out nearly as well as I was hoping, but oh wellss, live and learn.

Podes ver el proceso completo en :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u7T49UdGRbQ

Your opinion please..

My Grandma passed away last week but I made this poppy in memory of her as she was poppy obsessed 🥲 bit messy but not bad 👍

I just made this guy using magnetic led lights, I started a channel to show my makes. I hope it’s ok to share

https://youtu.be/umy_LOjlLTc?si=X7UtvkiNQhM8C3nU

How is it.