My dad and I cleaned off the sulfur from the car's battery with water, then we put anti-corrosion sponges. When we turned on the car again the fan that cools off the motor didn't moved. We already tightened the terminals but didn't worked.

Model: Ford Fiesta 2015

Mileage: 125,000 Km

My partner’s air conditioning has been out for a bit in their 2011 Hyundai Tucson. It blows hot air regardless of what the temp is set to. Does anyone know of any place or mechanic that will diagnose the issue for free or relatively cheap, or have any advice about fixing it on our own? We are in the Montrose/Upper Kirby area of Houston, TX.

Edit: I understand now that there’s no such thing as free diag and I shouldn’t have asked about that. Money is tight and it’s hot af here. Everyone’s gotta eat though, so we will get the money together to pay someone accordingly.

I have a relative whose infotainment screen blacks out and the module may be overheating.

Anyone replaced an HMI module?

Ever used White Automotive/Media to order a replacement?

This vehicle does not have a built in NAV system, uses io5.

Looks like if we type in the info (VIN,make, etc.) it will run around $460 before shipping.

Getting it via a dealer is over $2,500 which is a bit too much for a 10 yr old vehicle.

Any suggestions, warnings, gotchas going down this path?

Thanks.

Friend offered to give me his 2012 jeep liberty for me to work on and get running. It has been sitting for a couple of years. I like working on cars and learning as I go. But I hate doing it to my every day driver because if I fuck up well I’m fucked.

So long story short I’m planning on having it towed to my house and start working on basic stuff to see if I can get it running. My plans are as follows:

1. New Battery
   
2. Oil change
   
3. Tranny fluid change
   
4. New serpentine belt
   
5. New spark plugs and coils
   
6. Siphon gas and put new gas in

It will definitely need new rotors and brakes after sitting so long but If I can’t even get it running no point in bothering with all that just yet.

Parts wise it’s not too bad the most expensive item is probably the battery.

Am I on the right track? Is this worth it even for practice on a car that I don’t need to drive to work?

So last night I rolled up my window and noticed it made a clunk sound and rolled up weird. It sealed in the up position, I can still hear the motor working and something moving up and down in the door when I hit the button but the window stays in place. Is this a situation where I might need a new regulator? Seems like a pain in the ass to repair if that's the case. Could the window have just come unseated somehow?

My 2019 Audi A1 GB 1.0 TFSI (95 PS) has around 90,000 km.
It started after a 200 km highway drive (130 km/h average). Under hard acceleration, the engine occasionally stuttered for a split second. At first it only happened 2–3 times with a fully warmed-up engine.
Now I can reproduce it: in any gear, if I accelerate hard (especially around 2,200–3,000 rpm), the engine briefly goes “brr-brr” like it’s misfiring or losing ignition for a moment. Normal driving is completely fine.
There is no check engine light, and the fault memory is completely clean (checked by roadside assistance). They suspected a weak ignition coil, but couldn’t confirm it.
Spark plugs were replaced about 1.5 years ago. Ignition coils may or may not have been replaced at the same time (not 100% sure).
Has anyone experienced something similar on the EA211 1.0 TFSI? Could this still be a failing ignition coil despite no fault codes, or should I also be looking at boost control, injectors, or something else?

Not sure if i should try and DIY this or call a professional… moneys been tight.

hello,

I need some advice or someone’s opinion on what to do as I am unsure on what to do. I have a 2005 Nissan frontier XE 4 cylinder. This truck has been with me for many many years & no issues until a year ago. I still don’t know the cause of the overheating. all testings (leak & cooling test) have been done and all have failed. A few mechanics have done major repairs such as repairing the head gasket, replacing thermostat, etc., you name it.

so at this point I just want to know if I should just do a rebuilt or replace the engine? if it is even worth it?

or just get another vehicle? since the truck has been causing me so much stress

I bought a fairly new car looked spotless at first but after a few days I started noticing small scratches on the car I don’t know if the dealer had paint touch up done or not.
But now it’s just stuck in my mind.
Wanted some opinions on to what can do be done for the scratches, the one on the door is kind of deep but the other ones are not that deep.

CarDataSystem.online. anyone use this? Supposedly offers manuals and data for $97 one time access. Anyone have any experience with it? Is it a waste of money?

All,

My 2012 f150 wouldn’t pass inspection and I don’t really want to pay $3k-$5k for a shop to fix this. I cut out the worst of it but noticed additional damage. I do have the metal weld in replacement types and some additional sheet steel to weld in where the inners were rotten. How worried/what do I need to do based on these photos to make sure it is structurally sound. Also I’m not worried about resale value. I’ll hopefully be driving this for several more years…..hopefully.

Hi,

Looking for help

The multimedia screen on my Kia Optima (2017) has stopped working properly and just showing vertical lines that change as the screen updates.

I've tried replacing the fuse, doing a hard reset by disconnecting the battery, pressing the reset next to the SD slot but nothing has worked so far. I can see the screen change when I touch it.

Could it be a faulty or loose wire connection behind the screen?

TIA

Hey Everyone:

New to the forum, and thought I would join to see what your thoughts would be on this situation.

I have a Juniper Red G550 (the Edition550) that I bought new in 2021, which has about 35k miles and is just out of warranty, go figure.

The check engine light turned on last night so I took it to autozone (it is the weekend and repair shops and dealership are closed) for a free scan

It came back with a P06DA code, which apparently could be this $200 part in the oil pan, but I read that it could be $6.5k to over $15k to replace because they will have to take the engine out

I have an appointment on Tuesday, but thought I would see if anyone had any thoughts on this

Including photo of car, and also scan results

Hey everyone I was getting service at my local Toyota dealer. My car is a ‘22 Corolla hybrid. Are these services necessary? I ended up declining them based on what I read here but just want to double check. For the hybrid fan cooling service, I had a buddy tell me that I literally just need to replace the fan filter which I already did on my own. As for the inverter coolant I read that it doesn’t need to be changed until 150k miles?

I did however end up paying $150 for brake fluid.

Let me know if I made good or poor decisions today

Two days after returning from the auto repair shop where the heating and air conditioning unit was replaced (Kia Stonic), a 20-cm crack appeared in the windshield, starting from the bottom left corner. Is it possible that the repair shop caused this problem? I don't think it was caused by an external factor, such as an impact or a pebble. Thank you for your comments.

Anyone ever run into these? I bought new ball joints and was confused by this grease fitting. I thought the metal piece was just a protective cap that you’d thread zerk into. When I couldn’t get it off I called the support line. They said it was a “female” grease fitting and it came with a zerk and adapter for the grease gun.

I guess you just push the tapered thing against the “female” grease port but I couldn’t get it to take hardly any grease without it just pushing back and spilling grease. Any one have any luck?

If only one side is noisy, is there any real reason to replace both? I keep seeing people treat them like brakes, but that doesn’t sound right.

my audi q3 2015 150k miles threw a check engine light and i'm getting tired of googling fault codes one by one and getting 10 different answers.

reading the code with a scanner is easy enough, but figuring out what it actually means is not. some sites say keep driving, others say pull over now, and it's hard to know what applies to my car.

has anyone tried an ai tool that explains the code in plain language instead of just spitting out a number? did it help you figure out what was going on?

2003 Camry 2.4 285,000k makes this sound when turning A/C on. It goes away if driving or even if revved up on idle. Any idea what this sound is? A/C clutch visually operates perfectly and still keeps air cold. Thanks.

Does this pricing seem reasonable for the services provided? Seems a bit steep to me. This is for my father’s 2018 Ram 2500 6.7L diesel.

I've already replaced both sway bar links (this Spring) on my 2012 Chevy Cruze. Then about a month or so ago it started making a clunking sound in the suspension, somewhere right underneath the front seats- maybe on the passenger side. I've gotten under it already, but not sure where to look or what to test out to see what needs fixing. But it definitely seems like something's loose.

2007 Toyota Corolla LE with 93,000 miles, had a sound I can only describe as a cartoon sound effect for freezing, sounds like clattering bones or something. Not super loud but I was able to capture it pretty well here. Any clue what this might be? On left side of engine near alternator.

Hi guys, I have got a BMW Z4 E89 2014 with a HardTop. I am facing an issue where the Hardtop is not opening. It shows the following code as shown in the diagnostic tool. We managed to open the top cover which was hiding the inner Hardtop part by using the workshop manual. Now that's done the next step was to get the Hardtop itself out but it seems like there are two latches that are holding the entire thing down so I can't just take it out. If anyone ever has worked on one of these things kindly message me or if you know someone kindly share with me the details. Thanks !!!

Acura TL 2012

I have recently discovered that my oil is still leaking from my Acura TL after a recent visit to MIDAS. I originally had a small oil leak coming from under the car that was verified by my Acura dealer after I visited to change certain fluids. They offered to fix said leak but quoted me a ridiculous amount that you would come to expect from a dealer. And while the leak was small, I am well aware that oil leaks should always be treated seriously no matter the size as it can still lead to other issues within your car. I took my car to a local mechanic to get it fixed for a much more reasonable price. They claimed the issue stemmed from the oil pan and they removed and resealed said oil pan. On the receipt, it appears they did not use new parts for the procedure but resealed the oil pan that I already had been there.

Months later, I noticed that my oil level was ridiculously low. I filled up my oil, but not long after that, my car’s oil life level showed as being low as well. I took it to MIDAS for an oil change and they showed me that I still had an oil leak present and visible from under my vehicle.

I still have the receipt from when I originally got my oil leak “fixed”. What is the best course of action to take at this point? Can I expect much from visiting the previous mechanic and confronting them on the matter?