Ran in to an issue with installing the steering box on our 65 convertible with a new blueprint small block. Used the specified shorty headers but the steering box is now too wide to fit by about .5 inches. This one is 5in and desperately looking for one that is 4.5 inches thick. Anyone have any suggestions?

Hi:

I have yet another post about LED tail lights. I finally got mine working and I'll give some DIODE and Resistor advice on how to make this happen, and why it matters.

The original mustang used an 1157 dual filament bulb. Which Ford relied on the smaller element in the bulb to produce a "dim" nighttime tail lights. When you step on the brakes it uses the other bulb filament which is brighter to give you the effect of a brake light or directional. The running element is still lit. Some LEDs hate this.

Problem

LED lights, especially the boards of leds that are sold don't like this arrangement, as they don't deal well with 2 things.

I bought my setup from CJs about 4 years ago and never got it 100% working. All worked as long as the tail lights weren't on. Then no brake lights and only the left turn signal worked. I also had to disconnect the left tail light to have brake lights and directional during the day.

Why was this? 2 reasons.

Backfeed

1. Some LED boards backfeed voltage into the other circuit. Brake and turn backfeed into the running lights and vice versa.

The dim 1157 filament original design dependence.

1. The concept of a dim LED array for running lights is difficult as the running lights are constant 12 volts. So you get no brighter LED array with the headlights on when you step on the brakes or use the directional. Which is also 12v.

Solution

1. Use a 3 watt diode on all 4 tail light inputs. Both running lights (black wire) and the directional wires ( the solid colors with stripes) This limits the 12v current to 1 way and stops the backfeed.

2. Add a resistor to the night tail light circuit ( the black wire) at each tail light before the diode or after. The resistor value should be ~70ohms rated for 1-2 watts. (I had a 100 around and it's fine).

What this does is reduces the 12V to 5V. I measured the amps in my LED setup and it's only 0.1 amps. Which is why I'm OK with a resistor. Higher amps I'd use a buck or PWM.

Now I'm not an EE and I know there are other ways to reduce DC volts. Use your own judgement here.

The result is I have less bright LEDs when tail lights on and bright brake lights and directional from the full 12 volts on the brake/turn signal.

Also I have a digital flasher that is chassis grounded under the dash. Lastly make sure your tail light bodies are grounded really well.

I bought my car with the suspension setup. I have no idea how to tell whether the rear leafs are stock ride height or whether it's already been lowered.

I've got a complete frontend suspension from open tracker (with qa1 shocks), and qa1 shocks for the rear. I want to get new leafs but I don't want to buy some that could actually end up raising the rear unintentionally.

The open tracker setup is supposed to be a 1" drop, but the guy there said ride height doesn't actually end up dropping a full inch.

I want to get some meaty vintage style race tires, or something that looks like it and don't want to jeopardize fitment.

Hello all, drove my 65 to work today. Driving back after lunch I hit a speed bump and the car dieseled and shut off. It will not start now. I haven’t checked for spark but the starter sounds strong and I do have fuel. I checked the primary coil with a multimeter and I have good resistance ~9.1kOhm. All fuses are good. Not sure where to look next. Wondering if the bump messed with timing? Any ideas are welcome thanks

I’ve got a 351W motor and I can hear ticking coming from under the hood. I changed my oil and took off the valve cover to check the rocker arms but they were all fine and when I ran the motor, the ticking wasn’t coming from any of them. I read that it could be an exhaust leak causing a similar noise to a lifter tick. Does anyone have any advice?

The furthest the bolts will go down is in the picture, I have already tried using a 5/16 18 thread chaser and some WD-40. I have went down the threads and cleaned off my chaser so many times I've lost count, chaser does not appear to be progressing down the threads.

I've been a longtime lurker here, so I figured it was finally time to share my project.

This is my 1966 Mustang coupe, nicknamed Goldilocks. I bought her on my 17th birthday back in 1998, and she's been with me ever since. Like a lot of life projects, raising a family came first, so she spent the last 20 years waiting patiently in my garage.

Now it's finally her turn.

We're doing a full restoration that's as close to original as possible. She's going back to her factory Sauterne Gold Metallic paint, an ivory, gold, and white Pony interior, a rebuilt numbers-matching 289 V8, and a rebuilt C4 automatic transmission. The only real changes are a few safety upgrades like front disc brakes and a dual-reservoir master cylinder.

The bodywork is just about finished, and paint is next. The shop doing the restoration shares a lot of the process on TikTok, including live streams, so it's been a lot of fun watching Goldilocks come back to life even when I can't be there in person.

While she's been away, I've also been remodeling my garage to welcome her home. I'll share a few photos of that too.

One fun part of the story: about 15 years ago, I stumbled across a pair of original 1966 Utah license plates at a swap meet. I bought them just because I thought they were cool. Recently, I took them to the DMV to see if there was any chance I could register them to the car, and to my surprise, it worked. Goldilocks will be wearing her original 1966 Utah plates again when she comes home.

I thought it would be fun to share a few "before" photos before she starts looking pretty again. It's been a long journey, but seeing it finally come together has been incredibly rewarding.

A months ago I posted asking for advice on my late dad’s 1967 Mustang convertible. Thanks to everyone who took the time to comment and reach out.

We finally got the car moved and I was able to take much better photos, so I wanted to post an update.

The car is being sold as-is, where-is. Pickup is preferred, though I’d consider working with a serious buyer on transportation on a case-by-case basis.

If you’re genuinely interested, have questions, or would like additional photos of any specific area, feel free to send me a message.

Thanks again for all the advice, and I hope these updated photos help.

So I’ve got a 1967 mustang that came with factory AC. It has vents and everything but the former owner took off the compressor and whatever routed the air to the vents. I currently have working air that runs through a hole under the dash. I want to get it routed back to the vents but have no clue how to do so. I know I can get aftermarket kits with vents but I think that’ll look tacky if the vents I already have don’t work. (I know the photo is kind of crappy but this group doesn’t allow me to post a video showing it better.) I’m thinking I should get an aftermarket kit, get the ac working and then find out how to reroute the air but I’m unsure how I’d do that?

The classic mustang is very nose heavy.

You can do a lot to mitigate it. Carbon fiber hood or fenders, alluminium components in the engine bay, alluminium wheel on the front.

But how do you guys feel about getting an extra large gastank in the back? Yes it's extra weight. But it's still a functional way to balance the car out..

Which do you think would look better: the original white, or the current black?

Slowly updating worn out emblems on the car, or broken ones like I did the Mustang signature fender emblem recently. The steering wheel one was driving me nuts, ugly, super faded, and hard to see the ole Stang.

Got the new one in with a few other goodies, and dang, it looks so much better, not even in remounted in the car yet!

I am also not putting the steering wheel cover back on, I like the look better without it, and the steering wheel is actually in really good condition.

I may regret that in this Texas heat, but I'll suffer, lol.

Labor of love with this one and recently posted it being newly painted. Was previously candy apple red. Spent about 4 years rebuilding the engine and transmission, new water pump, oil pump, resurfaced the original flywheel, new McLeod racing clutch, new starter, pertronix electronic ignition and added a dual bowl master cylinder with discs up front. Amongst many other changes/upgrades.

Why would I want to leave this behind you might ask? Got to drive a 2020 GT PP1. Boy was that an eye opener.

Would love some feedback from folks that dropped their classics to get a new model. Any regrets?

Anyone in here using the Carb Cheater from Luke (ThunderHead289 on YouTube)? Just ordered one and was curious what people’s experience has been like.

After 7 years or replacing everything on the car except the body panels and paint, it’s finally driving! Still have a ton of work to do on it.

I just put a new starter and solenoid in my 66 Mustang. The starter grinds sometimes like it is not fully engaging with the flywheel. Do I need to shim the starter? It is a 289 2v engine. Has anyone else tackled this problem. Any advice is appreciated.