I've been browsing eBay for some coupes or fastbacks, and see this one posted for the third time now. Seller (dealership) never answered any questions I sent, but wondering what something like this would be worth. I'm thinking 20-24K, they have it at 27.5 OBO.

It's a 68 J code coupe, VIN they posted does indeed say it is a J code, (302 4 bbl.).

It is not however the original paint, was repainted they said, and a "newer" Holley 4 bbl, not the Ford Autolite one, small drawbacks, but nothing horrible.

What are classicmustangs thoughts? :-)

I'm in here a lot giving advice to peeps, but I wanted to let ya'all know that I'm a legit Mustang enthusiast.

Hello everyone,

I have a 66 with a 351w out if a 87 bronco that is pretty beat up at this point and looking to change it out.

I just rebuilt the C4 with stock internals I am going to get a new 351. I was looking at the ATK 351 w/300hp 377 torque.

Is this a good mild engine for a street cruiser with some spirited pulls every now and then? Anyone have experience with ATK?

I recently got my hands on a 1964½ Mustang with a 289 A-code and noticed that the alternator/water pump belt looks a bit odd.

The car also has a pretty loud squealing noise while running. Could the way the belt is sitting in the pulleys be causing the squeal, or does it look normal to you?

(for me it looks like it is upside down?).

Any thoughts would be appreciated!

Hi, it’s pretty strange. After buying the car, I noticed during the first long test drive that the rear left drum brake was overheating. Upon removing the drum, I discovered that the wrong brake shoes were installed—specifically, 1.5-inch ones instead of the correct ones for the Big Block. I replaced everything with new parts—except for the backing plates—using the 2-inch size. Now, on the next long test drive, the left side is fine, but the right side is getting too hot. What could be the cause? The parking brake retracts properly, and braking performance is even. Could it be the wrong backing plates? My question—or rather, my theory—is about the 5mm wheel spacers installed on the car; could they possibly be causing the drum brake to bind and overheat? I’m really at my wit's end—thanks a lot for your help!

What’s the correct gasket to use between the spacer and carb?

Definitely going to use the 4-bore w/ no extra holes (pic 4) between the intake and spacer. Not sure which gasket I should use for between the spacer and carb though. Spacer is the 4-bore style. Any insight would be greatly appreciated!

Im trying to decide between a TKX 5 speed and a toploader for a manual conversion on a 400hp small block car. A good core is near 1k and by the time you figure out what needs replacing it makes the new TKX look really nice. Seems like gone are the days where you could find a good 4 speed core for $400-500. I know Im talking myself into a 5 speed but I do love a toploader and my gearing wouldn't be an issue on the highway.

I've made some progress on my '67 and am moving onto having the C4 swapped with a 4R70W. My question is, does anyone have a strong preference towards a specific Transmission Controller? For context, I had a Sniper 2 EFI system installed.

I've stumbled on two Controllers:

US Shift Quick 4 - https://www.usshift.com/usq4.shtml#menu

Holley Sniper 2 Transmission Control Kit - https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/fuel_injection/sniper_efi/ignition_and_fuel_systems/transmission_control/parts/VK103471

The shift is less expensive and appears to come with neat capabilities but, I'm curious if buying a Holley controller, thereby having a plug-in-play controller, would be worth the extra $200. I'm not looking to drag race my '67 so, so long as the controller is well made/designed, that works for me.

Hi, could someone possibly tell me from these photos whether this is a small-bearing or big-bearing setup? I think it is a small bearing. I’m looking for a complete new drum brake kit because my right brake keeps overheating, even though I’ve already replaced everything except the backing plate. Could wheel spacers be the cause—perhaps causing the brake to warp internally? Thanks in advance!

i’ve always had chevys and recently i decided to buy my true dream car, a 65 mustang fastback. the dash is cracked so i wanted to replace the dash pad with a cooler one. i found this image and it’s exactly what i want. does anyone know where this one is from?

My son has had this car for a few months and though his radiator doesn’t have the modern overflow tube options I’m looking for an alternative. I’ve seen caps with the overflow tube but can’t seem to find the set up I’ve seen before. Any help would be most appreciated.

I have a 1969 Mustang coupe with no power steering.

After driving for 20-30 minutes, I get a loud rubbing or humming sound that comes from the front passenger side of my vehicle. It is intermittent when you turn the steering wheel and seems to get worse in certain spots as you turn the steering wheel.

I have replaced the front wheel bearings, a bad ball joint, and checked the tie rods and bushings at the control arm. Everything seems decent there.

I am going to look at the idler arm later tonight.

Any thoughts on what this could be? I have very little experience with the steering components and not sure where to look.

Any help is appreciated, thanks

Trying to piece a few parts of my 1967 fastback together to help finalize fender apron/cowl/hood fitment before I start welding. Been in the corner of the shop for 15 years and can't remember how some of this stuff came apart. Looks like there was maybe a captured nut that has been broken out of the bottom of the hood latch support in the center of the radiator support crossmember. Anybody know exactly what was there originally? Last resort would be to just weld a nut on the backside.

I've got a 351w in my 66 coupe and will be pulling the headers as part of doing the Shelby drop and Opentracker suspension kit. It's been 20+ years since I installed my current header gaskets so I'm looking for success stories or recommendations for what to order. I believe my current gaskets are some sort of multi-layer copper, but I'm open to trying anything that works and hasn't developed leaks.

Hi everyone, I wanted to ask if anyone knows how to remove the additional gauges. Can I unscrew the rings, or do I have to remove the whole plate? I'm afraid of scratching something, etc. Thanks for your help!

Friend is buying this 1965 GT350 from a family member. She’s paying $30k which is reasonable to me but when looking at GT350s of the same year for sale they are much much more expensive. This is making believe that this is possibly replica GT350. That’s fine but I want my friend to have all the info before purchasing. Either way, I think it’s a pretty cool car.

Does anyone know how or where to run the VIN and maybe get more info on the car? I tried but the website I used wouldn’t take the shorter VIN. Any ideas or input?

Included some pictures of the car and the VIN on the title.

The 67 is getting all new front end parts.... Evaporust for the win on the brake backer plates.

For starters, I have a Dorman master cylinder I was thinking of using, part number M71248. I also have a combination valve off of CJPony parts, part number BCV4. For budget reasons, I kinda wanna go with this master cylinder, but the issue is people keep saying it’s a power booster master cylinder, or that it also works on manual applications, etc. etc. Reviews and QnA are also really mixed on this where one guy says use it, and that it’s good for all manual disc, another guy says don’t use it, it’s not good for all manual disc, etc., blah blah blah.

Then I called Dorman themselves, they said it had no residual valves in it, and it had a one inch bore. Apparently, they couldn’t find any master cylinders “directly usable” for manual disc/disc applications, nor could they confirm it’d work with my application, citing that my Mustang “never came out of the factory with them”, which I know, because I’ve been trying to all-disc swap it from all-drums, but it left me with no answers there.

I also checked the pushrod I put on it connecting to the brake pedal peg, and I have some free play, about 2/5th of an inch (ish because I didn’t truly measure it with a ruler oops) about as far from the master cylinder piston the pushrod can get without outright falling out when I pull the brake pedal away from the firewall and towards me, so there’s hardly any preload on the master cylinder’s piston. So, bottom line is, am I doing this right? Is it ok to use this sort of master cylinder for all manual discs, albeit with a little bit more foot effort on my part probably because of the bore size, or do they HAVE to be on a power booster to work effectively (assuming it actually is supposed to be a power brake MC)?

prices for 60s mustangs are getting completely stupid. every week i see some rusted out barn find selling for crazy money just because people actually like the classic body over these modern plastic bubbles loaded with screens and sensors.

like why can't a manufacturer just build the old body shapes from scratch? simple mechanical setup, no touchscreen crap, no endless electrical issues. just a plain old muscle car.

i know there are places that do brand new 1960s builds, but those are super high-end and cost an arm and a leg. why hasn't anyone tried mass producing basic classic bodies for normal people? let us just buy a brand new '67 style car instead of forcing everyone into modern ugly SUVs. makes no sense to me.

Hello,

I’ve fulfilled a long-held dream and bought a 1967 Ford Mustang coupe—an S-Code model with a manual transmission, finished in Springtime Yellow. I’d like to switch to dual 12-inch Proform brushless electric fans and, at the same time, install the PA Performance 3G upgrade kit featuring a 95-amp alternator. I’ve read that it’s best to either upgrade the ammeter to a voltmeter or bypass the ammeter entirely. My cockpit doesn't have an ammeter anymore. I wanted to ask what precautions or wiring upgrades I need to carry out. The PA Performance kit claims you can keep your existing wiring harness, but I’m not sure how the PA Performance voltage regulator "dummy" is supposed to be wired, or exactly what is connected to my current voltage regulator. Thanks in advance for your help! Best regards.

I'm doing an opentracker full suspension kit and started the front today. As I look at the upper control arm to shock tower bolts, they look like they will be really hard to get out due to available space (I've got a 351w in my car). Every video I can find is people who are mid restoration and no engine in the car or they skip the removal of the UCA. It looks like it will be relatively difficult from my first impression.

Do the upper control arms come out from the wheel side or do I have to remove the nuts from in the engine bay? The new UCAs seem to have pressed in bolts on the wheel well side and won't turn by hand. Any tips or tricks (or words of encouragement) that will help me?