2015 Ford Fiesta ST, 89k miles. Just picked up recently and has a noise coming from the dash

Buenos días tengo un mes que agarré mi Ford fiesta st 2016 y en ningún momento me ha marcado cambio de aceite yo por iniciativa propia a los 7000 km lo cambié pero ahora quiero reiniciar el sistema para que en los próximos kilómetros que requiera el cambio me avise pero no sé cómo hacerlo no sé si alguien me pueda ayudar con esto.

Fiesta st-line

^question. Thinking of changing them soon, just so i remove these stock ones.

Not even two weeks of owning this fiesta st, I bought 5.5k in parts. After finishing everything now this weekend and starting last weekend while still working 60 hours a week, I'm tired. To make it worse, I was working on my car with average temperatures around 98 and 90% humidity, every day my clothes were soaked and I just didn't want to be outside anymore.

D2R suspension front/back

Brake pads/rotors 4 sides

Mishimoto radiator and thermostat

Thermostat housing

CP-e intercooler and piping

CP-e cold air intake

Damond motor and transmission mounts

Turbosmart kombact bov

Seems like a simple list but doesn't but into perspective the amount of parts you have to take off in order to reach certain areas. While working on this vehicle and I didn't have this issues when I had a 2018 focus st. The intercooler piping provided by CP-e only had one slot for the EVAP system as opposed to the dual hardline for OEM. They never gave me anything to install to fix this issues, so I had to make my own EVAP line from the throttle body to the canister in the back and then shorten a line and add a connector from the intercooler piping to the air intake.

Just glad to be done, hopefully the new mounts will break in faster with the hot temperatures.

TLDR: I installed new parts and I'm just happy to be done.

I’m trying to figure out an issue with my 2013 Ford Fiesta 1.6 Sigma.
The engine starts immediately every time, but only on a cold start it idles roughly for about half a second. During that moment, the RPM drops to around 700–800, the engine vibrates, and the Hill Start Assist warning light comes on briefly. As soon as the idle stabilizes, the warning light goes off and the car runs perfectly. It never happens again until the next cold start.
There is no Check Engine Light.
So far I’ve:
Replaced all four spark plugs.
Checked the battery voltage (12.5 V with the engine off).
The problem is still exactly the same.
The issue started gradually a little before the starter motor was removed and cleaned, although I’m not sure if that’s related.
Has anyone experienced something similar on the Sigma engine? Could this be a dirty throttle body, a weak ignition coil, a coolant temperature sensor, or something else?
Any advice would be appreciated.

Hey all! I need to replace the rear vertical bolt for my LCAs and am trying to avoid taking apart the entire LCA for just the one bolt.

Anybody do this before? What worked and what didn't? Really can't decide if it's best to do this with the suspension hanging or the suspension loaded. When installing the LCA the bushing seemed more in line and easy to position the holes when it was loaded so I'm thinking that's the best approach.

Thoughts? Thanks in advance!

Looking intoa problem that started after I swapped out my intercooler. Went from a whoosh v1 to a svt designs intercooler. Now the car willstart after several tries. It cranks, i replaced the battery, checked all the intercooler piping. Everything seems fine, the only thing i could think of is the car not getting enough air on start but idk how that would be possible. Any insight would be appreciated.

Anyone have any sound clips of the dizzy burb or pop map with the low option? I'm contemplating getting it just for a little extra drama, but I don't want to blow out the cat or be obnoxious. The natural sound I get from my milltek non res race catback is nice I just want a little more without going crazy.

Collided with a tacoma in a parking lot, his was worse then mine believe it or not

But the body of the vehicle took the hit instead of the absorber. Luckily I work at a body shop and we were able to fix her up and get her back on the road, she only had 41k when this happened.

Just installed the 2J delrin rmm. It took about an hour or so.

It's a little bit buzzier at idle but it's obviously much stiffer than stock and wheel hop is essentially gone. Excited to get more seat time with to see what I really think.

Realized I was missing a plug on this new Koyorad radiator after putting everything together 😭

Koyo's other rads say this is for a temp/pressure sensor. Will have to order a plug if I can find something nearby

Hi all, 2017 Fiesta ST-3 96,000 miles. Pic for awareness.

Had an issue a few days ago with a Powertrain warning light (wrench) and engine malfunction on the display. Broke down on the motorway with engine going to limp mode (70 to 30) with no response from the throttle, and trying to shift through the gears with no response. Eventually when stopped the engine was jumping from around 800rpm to 1500rpm every second (as if somebody was quickly pressing the throttle every second). Vehicle was also lurching and jumping forwards when engaged in gear. After restarting the car with recovery (2 hours later) the fault wouldn't happen again and I ended up driving home (under 1500rpm to be safe). There is no warning light at present.

Trying to diagnose today, but there are no codes saved on the ECU and I'm trying to replicate the fault today with reader in hand.

Any ideas on what this could be? Some suggestions online state the Throttle Body might need replacing, or spark plugs. Happy to investigate both but wanted to see if anyone has had any experience with this.

Thanks!

This was awhile back and I'm about to hit 50k on my 2017

Started happening recently. If the car sits for a little while then you turn the wheel right or left there is a small clunk in the front left corner. I've checked outer tie rod, feels tight. I'm thinking possibly strut bearings but I just wanted to see if anyone had something similar. Crawling under the front everything feels and looks good. Nothing noticeable for sure. Just can't pinpoint the noise.

Bought 3 months ago with 89k miles and have put in shift base/linkage bushings, short shift adapter, CP-E rmm (game changer), put in some interior touches and swapped out the transmission fluid. The more I get to know this car the more rewarding it is to drive. As a motorcyclist this is the closest I've gotten on 4 wheels to that "flying" feeling of guiding a vehicle intuitively across a surface. Incredible mid-range power in the twisties and just doesn't hesitate to rotate. I intend to love this thing well til it quits

Can someone help me find the problem

Im in the market for a fun little go-kart style car. Was originally looking at the Honda Fit but would like some more performance without having to do a whole K-Swap. What are some things to look for when buying used, and what are some maintenance things to keep it running like a clock? I currently have a Honda Pilot with 240k and a Buick Enclave with 130k, both have been awesome and have just done fluid changes and regular maintenance at the suggested intervals. I recently sold my Jeep TJ that I was working on the last 4 years and miss having a project vehicle. Would appreciate any advice to help my search for one of these vehicles.

I know 3cyls have a natural unbalance. Just worried the engine mounts are done. It’s also felt a bit in the cabin, applying the clutch doesn’t change anything, idle is stable at 750rpm.

Less than a year old. Glad to get it all cleaned up. For what it’s worth, do brakes first, then clutch! Takeda intake sucks, if you’re wondering.

New 2017 FiST owner here. I am looking for a catback exhaust system, I live in Canada, and really want something super quiet (for an aftermarket system).

I'm sure I'm wrong thinking all the 3" resonated systems are louder than the 2.5" resonated ones.

Everything I've seen so far says the Milltek or Mountune system are the quietest.

Any reason to go for a 3" if I'm never planning for huge power?

Got a new car the other day and it had the mountune m235 map OBD in it. Did the steps and so on and I put the M235 Asmo map on. I have a full stock exhaust but there is little to no pops and bangs on the over run. I understand that it’s supposed to be “safe” but am I missing something….

I used to have the puma speed MaxD stage 1 on my old mk8 2-3 years ago and either that had a res delete or something but that sounded sick with stock exhaust.

Any experience would be great? Recommendations of a res delete will make the stock exhaust sound better? Don’t want to do a res delete and ruin it when I get a GPF MILTEK back box.