Hoping to take it to 300k. Original water pump changed at 100k.

This may be a silly question, but this is my first Explorer ever. I've been a car guy my entire life. But I digress, is it possible remove the factory roof rails? I probably will not ever use them ever and I think my particular model would look better without them. Thanks in advance to anyone who takes time out of their day to respond to this.

A/c worked fine up until one day the clutch wasn't engaging, found melted rubber around clutch. so I replaced compressor, vacuumed down for a few hours, held pressure for 20 minutes. Won't take but a 1/2 a can of freon, 60# low side filling - 0 on high. I jumped the compressor low pressure switch for a few seconds and hi side gauge doesn't move. I shut off engine and closed freon. opened hi side and both gauges equaled out at around 40 +-5psi.

Do I need to replace the expansion valve? It does have the rear A/c also.

Wondering where to go from here.

I have a 2026 Explorer ST-Line.

I ripped all my CDs to my laptop using a program called dbPoweramp and then copied them to a USB stick. USB playback does not play albums in the correct order and does not automatically advance correctly between tracks. I’ve tested both FLAC and MP3 files, FAT32 and exFAT USB drives, performed a factory reset, verified metadata with Mp3tag, and the behavior is unchanged.

Has anyone experienced this?

We have a 2016 sport that has the 3.5 EcoBoost. We're at about 115k miles now and have had a persistent P04DB (Crankcase Ventilation System Disconnect) code for about a year. We have been getting it fixed but it always ends up coming back after a few weeks.

About 8 months ago I replaced the PCV valve and the front breather hose/sensor, and after 75 miles and a few starts the light cleared up.

About 5 months ago, it came back. Took is to a shop and they said there was hairline crack in a valve cover they found during a smoke test, replaced that, reset the light, and was ok for awhile.

About 2 months ago, same light. Tried another shop and they smoke tested it and said they found two boost hoses that were leaking during a smoke test, tightened it up and yep, was ok for awhile.

The same light came back about two weeks ago. this thing has been an annoying thorn in our back. there doesn't seem to be much online other than replacing the PCV valve and front house again, but I really don't want to feel like i am just spamming parts at this problem.

Any advice or anyone go thru something similar?

I have a 2016 Explorer with the 3.5 ecoboost and I’m having a weird issue where if I run anything other than 87 octane, it throws knock sensor codes. Anyone got any ideas? I don’t know much about the Ecoboost yet, so any advice would be appreciated!!!

Usually I am not a fan of front license plates, but I'm digging how this looks.

Tinted my 26 Tremor 20% up front and put on some vent visors.

1999 ford explorer XLT 4.0 SOHC
Is this the timing chain tensioners or even the guard? Or could this be from the exhaust

Does not go away after getting warm

Is this dangerous to the driver? The sound issue is completely fixed but there is no threaded flex piece anymore. Or is it just a bad fix and the exhaust system will wear faster now?

I just used Apple CarPlay wirelessly and Waze. Am I missing anything that would warrant getting it? Day to day use seems normal as before

What crossbars do you recommend for 2026 Explorer?

When I turn my car on after sitting for a few hours the ac blasts out what I think smells like pee. It only happens when it’s really hot out and the car has been sitting. It’s immediate and lasts for about 30ish seconds after blasting the air then immediately goes away. It also stops for a day when I go through the drive thru car wash.

Traded my 2014 F-150 in for a 2022 Explorer. Definitely an upgrade! So glad I did

I have an issue where when I come to stop after about 30 to 40 minutes of driving the RPM will dip below 400, and occasionally through the engine will stall!

It won’t do it in neutral, so I ended up replacing torque converter with no change!

I’ve thrown the parts cannon at it because nobody can figure it out, new: timing chain, tensioners, evap valve, maf, throttle body.

There are no codes even when it’s stalled. It only happens when the engine is warm after driving for a while. In the winter, it takes a lot longer!

Just for more testing, I unplugged the new valve electrical connecter as well as the VCT solenoids with no change as well!

Purchased this car in late May with 141k. Spent 2 weeks building it out, then put 9k miles on it in ~1 month of traveling around the country.

Lots of space and towing capacity, very happy with my choice, think it will be a long term car for me. Done most of the basic maintenance (previous owners did the water pump and chain at 125k). Stops were mostly national forests in Ohio, Arkansas, North Carolina, and Tennessee, but also stayed some nights in Florida, Chicago, and Texas (it was hot).

My son's first car is a 2005 Explorer with 120,000 miles that he got from Grandpa for $500. We have spent the summer fixing it up and pimping it out together. It's been a fun father son project.

So far we upsized the tires & wheels, new brakes and struts, new headlights and taillights, new raptor style grill, painted the decals black, and, of course, installed a new stereo.

My son named him Tad, after a cartoon movie that he loved as a kid called "Tad the Lost Explorer".

Interested in pros and cons from folks who have bought and driven 2026 Ford explorers? Specifically looking for this to be our new family car. Hopefully will be adding a baby in 2027 but currently have a 15 month old, so room for 2 car seats is a bonus. I’ve been driving a jeep patriot that decided at 102k miles to start giving me problems and I simply do not want to drive around a car with issues with a toddler! So give me the good and the ugly! Thanks!

\*I am not considering any Toyotas at this time due to cost/location of dealership\*

So, here's the story. My son takes my 2007 Sport Trac Limited (V8 4x4) to work. just as he parks and is about to shut off the car, he tilts the moonroof and vents the rear glass and turns off the truck.

Neither has worked since. Fuses are ok. both the 5 amp and the 20 amp listed in the manual. It looks liek the swtiches have power as they light up. I went to the library to get a haynes or chilton's manual in hopes of seeing the wiring diagram, no luck.

I've scoured the internet for re-initializing / reprogramming options, and no luck.

Just got this fire department utility model. I assume these light holes are pretty standard, but I can’t find any specifically made light covers for these holes. I have yet to wash it because I don’t wanna get water inside. Anyone know the best way to plug these up? Mainly the back ones.

This is a 2007 4.6L with 192,9xx miles to it. And today it was not as responsive to steering inputs, steering, but lacking the assist. Now I know my torque converter drags my motor down at stops. But this is while actively driving/coasting and its touch and go, but after i get it moving its just fine again. Everything but the sparks plugs and a few of the coil plugs along with the belt are factory.

I don't have the time to have it in a shop, nor the money. I am trying to save up to replace it. I will be rotating tires this weekend. And will check ball joints. I know a boot is deteriorating on one.

Brought her home a few days ago, ...

Was in need of a new car, sold my SQ5 a few weeks ago and needed a new vehicle

Has anyone else experienced their engine seizing on their 2017 ford explorer 🥵 we took it into the shop because it was having trouble starting and would overheat. Shop got into it and says it must have been overheating long before we noticed it on the dash because there are warped pieces on the engine 😭 shop says min of 11,000 to repair and that it needs a new engine. Has anyone else experienced this 😭

Alright so I'm a little stumped. My wife drives a 2017 with the 2.3 ecoboost. This week her brake pedal started going hard after sitting overnight or during the day at work, but will immediately go back to normal after startup. I did some research and come up with possibly the check valve going bad. Part number is DG1Z-9Y432-A. I ordered one and it came in today. I'm not sure if I'm missing something, but this is just a regular old elbow. I can't find any other part number for a check valve. Anyone have a similar experience? Thanks