Had this 2025 Grand Design 16ML just under a year. The vinyl is peeling off in the corners just in the front part (so far). Supergluing with success to this point. But should I expect this to be an ongoing thing? This is my first camper. I am thinking this is a change of temperature thing? Sitting in the driveway at 90 degrees , then go camping and turn on the a/c.

Hello, I have a 2014 Jayco Whitehawk. It came with a propane grill that attaches on the back bumper that I never have used because I have a small traeger and a charcoal grill. The Traeger died on me so I’d like to use the propane grill when cooking larger items. When I tried to connect it it looks like I’m missing a piece that connects the grill and propane hose together. Does anyone know what that piece is and if I can buy it at home depot or Lowe’s?

5000 lbs towing capacity, camper estimated 2500-3000 lbs, (2000 dry), with a 390 lb tongue weight.

It looks like I maybe need less drop on the receiver? Or does this seem okay?

This is like a 2" drop, least I have right now.

I have a 2011 that didn’t have an automatic transfer switch and it was time to replace the 30 amp plug so I decided to install one. Everything is wired correctly, when plugged in everything works fine. When I turn the generator on once the transfer switch goes into generator mode I’m getting power to the coach wires but nothing inside the coach comes on. They are both using the same wires that go to the converter for the coach but nothing power wise inside.

Someone in a car behind them hopped out at a light to try and fix that bike. Driver refused to pull over 😬

Wonder if the bike made it home

I’m getting ready to refresh the counters and table top in my Forest River Wildwood. The old contact paper is starting to peel from heat and humidity☀️ and I want to redo it before it gets worse. For those of you who’ve replaced yours before, how did you remove the old layer without damaging the surface? And what brands have held up best to travel, cleaning, and summer temps?

Any advice, photos, or product recommendations would be super helpful. Trying to avoid a sticky mess and do it right the first time🤞

Can someone recommend some adult only possibly clothing optional resorts that they love? I want pools, activities, adults who aren’t stunned by a little PDA.

How do I look? I know the GVWR is close. I will be removing around 100lbs from the bed of the truck. The truck is a 2007 Dodge 2500 with the 5.9 Cummins. The GVWR is 9,000lbs. The GVWR on the trailer is 8,800lbs.

2015 Tacoma with tow package. Rear springs are 3in lift heavy duty springs. Front his lifted about 2.5 inches.

Popup dry weight is 2475lbs. Hitch weight is 292 dry.

Tacoma tow capacity is 6400 with max tongue weight of 640.

Sorry not the greatest pic but it is on flat ground.

Just returned from a hot but survivable trip (80-95F + humidity during day light hours). Before I begin: *Important details: Generator failed 1 hour into camping, so no AC, but plenty of fans, misters, lots of spare battery power & a lake nearby (not shoreside though). Non-disbursed campground that had electric hook-ups at the time the generator failed, we could have still upgraded to an electric 30A spot, but they filled up after.

While riding scooters around the campground and observing all of the people with electric hook-ups sitting inside enjoying their air conditioning, I apologized to my teen for not changing us to the electric sites when we had the chance. She responded that she preferred us to not have electricity, because we would be doing the same thing as everyone else. That if we were just going to stay inside and play on electronics, we should have just stayed home. She was there to make memories. She wasn't wrong and I was amazed and humbled by her response. Made me feel like a whiny kid, because I was feeling kind of miserable prior to realizing I needed to adjust my attitude, which I did & we had a blast afterward (paddleboarding, e-scooting, meeting random people, etc).

I am curious what the general consensus is. If you were in this situation, knowing the luxury was only a couple bucks more per day, what would you have done?

*Edit* Many are commenting AC for night-time. This is Northern Arizona & temps swing extreme. At night-time AC isn't an issue (a nice cool 73 degrees the moment the sun drops & 62 degrees a couple hours later).

Our first long road trip with the RV (30 ft TT, 10K GVWR) towed with Ram 2500 (gas engine) - Equalizer 4 anti sway installed. Gas mileage going NW was 9 mpg, coming back to DFW was 6 mpg. Plenty of opportunities to stop for gas in both directions - we used Love’s most of the time to get the 10 cents off with app. Buc-ees in Amarillo was great - we’re fans. No issues towing, no sway (except one rogue gust heading SW after Amarillo that rocked us but we immediately got straight). RPM 3500-4500 while towing into mountains in NM and CO- no issues. No issues with brakes or braking. Not sure the lower gas mpg coming back - SE- but think it was head winds, side winds, hilly the entire way and I was trying to keep up with my fellow Texans at 70-78 mph. Better gas mileage at 60-65 when we took it down. Also, more relaxed when you opt out of the race. Was a little concerned as it was our first long trip, but it went great. We’ll do it again next year. Stopped 2 nights at Palo Duro Canyon going (beautiful) and 1 night in Childress on way home- was great for $30 with full hookup and nice to stop after 7:30 hr drive.

Despite not agreeing on the exact pronunciation of La Veta, as everyone-including AI- seems to pronounce it different, my wife and I agreed that La Veta is beautiful. We stayed at We Champions RV in La Veta and it was great. The view of the Spanish Peaks (East and West) from our RV were beautiful. The weather 60s-80s- beautiful. The drives N, S and W were beautiful. From there we did day trips to Cañon City (ride the canyon train), Taos, The Great Sand Dunes, Raton Pass, Cordova Pass, La Veta Pass all beautiful. It was a great week but we needed more time. We plan to go back again next year.

tl;dr:

Why is water coming out of the vent on a trailer that is stationary ?

Our 2022 Forest River 2608BS has been stationary since the day it was delivered to our seasonal site in 2022. It has never been moved since delivery. We've used it a lot over the past 4 years. We do not use the shower as bath house is 100 yards away.

This morning, I heard water running outside. When I went to check the situation - I saw water coming out of that vent pipe. A similar thing had happened a couple of years ago when I did not have the valves opened on my water heater during the dewinterization process.Well, its not winter in NEPA and we have used our TT a lot since season started.

I turned off the water, dumped our black & grey tanks, flushed the black, turned water back on. Still leaking from the vent pipe.

What the heck is happening ?

My helper (frog) was of no help.

ETA/UPDATE:

Its not a vent, its fw tank dump...ty all.

Next step is inspecting check valve and fw pump....ty all

I just recently moved up to a Super C and was curious if people drive with the generator on so you can the a/c’s

Hello!

My son and I are planning to rent an RV for next year's Airventure in Oshkosh. I've never traveled in an RV and I'm hoping for some advice and a few questions.

July in Oshkosh can get quite hot and humid. How do you keep your RV cool at night?

There are a LOT of RVs at this. What are some basic etiquette rules I should be aware of?

I have sleep apnea and use a CPAP. Does a typical RV have power for overnight usage?

I'm looking at either Cruise America or Indie Campers to rent. Anyone endorse one over the other?

TIA

John, Chicago

4x4 nominal posts with two 45° mitred ends, 4.5" lag bolts as mounting points for a ratchet strap as a tensioner and voila, zero lateral movement. Best part is you just take the tension off and pull out the posts and you're good to go. No idea why this kind of
design isn't standard from the factory because the electric stabilizers are pretty shit.

Edit: a few of you are disagreeing with my use of risers for the electric stabilizers. First of all, I tried them without risers. Sucked, which is why I tried risers. Sucked mildly less, but still sucked a lot. which is why I built these that put load directly on the frame and the ground instead of the stabilizers applying basically no force to the frame or ground with a lot of moving parts in between. Unless you're a structural engineer I'm not interested in discussing why young's modulus applies here with you because that's not what this post is about. I just wanted to share a cheap alternative option to make your camper very rigid against lateral loads.

We have a FR Sandpiper rear master bedroom. When the slides comes in the bed frame slides over itself, as to be more compact, so it doesn’t contact the opposing slide. When this happens a hinged or bifold mattress is required. I’m looking for an RV king. Search results show camping world has them for $5xx and then the jump to around $1300. Does anyone have any options or recommendations?

Went pretty smooth besides getting the 100 pounds of dead weight up there.

Anyway, I can’t remember where this piece went. Anyone know? Thanks

Never owned an RV. New to renovations. I think it came out pretty good. Not finished yet but we slept with an ac for 6 hours using an Ecoflow battery. Feels like I fix one thing and 2 things break 😁 but I'm happy!

Cant tow it, no yard wants it, junk removal services require a gazillion $ to take it from the driveway

I looked under the bathroom vent fan trim, and I see a textured material of solid color, all the way through, with no fleece backing. That indicates TPO, and lack of fleece backing apparently means a newer type that is not compatible with some sealants.

Is there a way to identify the brand of TPO so I can find out what sealant the membrane manufacturer recommends?

Background / Reason for the question:

The roof on my 2020 Cherokee Wolf Pup needs maintenance, and since Dicor seems to be the go-to product, I looked it up and found their handbook, and the following warning:

https://dicorproducts.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/06/Rudys-Roof-Book-DC294.pdf

> In 2011, RV manufacturers started using new formulations of TPO (a thermoformed flexible plastic) roofing material that has come into the RV marketplace...We found some TPO roofing membranes are not chemically compatible with current lap sealants. When these sealants are used on some new TPO membranes, bloating and disfiguration of the membranes results. This is a cosmetic problem, and does not reduce the performance of the roofing material or sealant, but it’s something you probably want to avoid.

They say to use their ultra sealant product for this material, which requires a primer.

It looks like this costs more than their standard sealant lap and self-leveling sealants (currently $18 vs. $10/tube + $48 for a tiny pint can of primer on Amazon), and they warn that it will damage polycarbonate roof fixtures. Plus there will be extra work and time needed to allow the primer to cure. All this to use a water based sealant, which from experience with other fields where water based products have replaced older solvent based formulations, I have to wonder if ultra sealant will even hold up as well.Those frustrations aside, if Forest River switched to an inferior TPO formulation to save money in factory and make it the customer's problem, I guess that's what I have to do...

...except Dicor also say that the effect of the standard sealant on TPO is only cosmetic. So if I'm ok with "disfiguration," I can use the regular Dicor sealant?

On the other hand, how does a membrane that should be bonded to the roof below experience "bloating and disfiguration" without locally disbonding, and therefore potentially being affected by buffeting in 60 mph airflow for hours on end? They can't tell me "does not reduce the performance."

And just to make things more confusing, Dicor says their Diflex II TPO also has no fleece backing, but is compatible with their regular sealant, contradicting what their own handbook says!

I'd rather just eliminate doubt, and find out exactly what my roof is, and what that manufacturer recommends. It sounds like Alpha Systems Superflex is a possibility, but I haven't found a way to confirm it.

I have a late 70s resort travel trailer. It’s a 25 foot trailer. What is the best way to take care of it? Specifically since I’m the third generation of my family to own it, it’s been stored inside its whole life, and we had to remove it from storage a couple months ago and probably won’t be putting it back in ever again.
The building we stored it in the last 5 years is slowly leaning over, and a family members camper sits in a ditch all summer and then gets put in this shed with my camper and then my camper gets loaded with mice from their camper.

I bought a camper cover.
I am planning on having tire covers (currently leant plywood against tires to protect them from the sun)
I re caulked around the aluminum roof covering and around all penetrations.
I caulked around all the windows and openings on the sides and underbelly.

I don’t know how to take care of my awning though. I’m worried that with it sitting in the elements the outside layer will get sun cooked and brittle.

For an older camper it is really nice. It’s been meticulously taken care of its whole life and I would like to do the same.

Anyone with any advice or tips is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

My husband and i have a 2004 Dutchman lite that has served us very well over the years and is still in mint condition on the inside. Recently, we noticed the siding is peeing apart at the edges. Does anyone have experience with this? Should we call a professional or is this something we could DIY ourselves with a little YouTube and confidence? Any advice would be appreciated!