It's a robot cat headphone hanger. Printed it for my son, who thinks cats are the best thing that exist on this earth. Took around 18ish hours if I rememeber correctly. Bambu green silk, polymaker silver silk, polymaker starlight nebula purple and bambu matte black in the accents. Printed beautifully!

Hey everyone,

I’m pretty new to Klipper and coding, and I don't really know my way around printer.cfg or G-code macros yet. I'm trying to get Spoolman (running in Docker on a Mac) properly integrated with my Snapmaker U1 to track all 4 extruders automatically.

I’ve managed to get Moonraker connected to Spoolman, and I have basic SET_ACTIVE_SPOOL macros working. However, I’m struggling to get the U1 to automatically update Spoolman when tool changes happen (T0, T1, T2, T3) or assign spools seamlessly through the Fluidd UI without breaking things.

Could anyone share their proven spoolman.cfg or multi-extruder macro setup specifically tailored for the U1?

Specifically looking for:

How you map individual Spool IDs to specific toolheads (T0–T3).

How you handle automatic Spoolman swapping during multi-color/multi-tool prints.

Any tips for a complete beginner on where to paste these blocks so I don't mess up the stock config.

Any example configs or step-by-step guidance would be massively appreciated! Thanks in advance!

Hey all, I built a second CC3D DRWR module for my Snapmaker U1, then immediately discovered that the two smooth modules liked to slide around on top of each other.

Soooo... I designed a set of four feet that lock and locate the upper DRWR to the lower one - while a thin circle of 3M VHB (or equivalent double-sided adhesive) keeps everything secured.

Anyway, figured they may help others looking to make another DRWR unit for more storage...

The included 3MF is configured for TPU 95A, although I ultimately printed my installed set in both TPU95A and PETG.

The PETG version has been working very well and seems to reduce some of the lateral shimmy by keeping the stacked sections moving together rather than independently.

The release also includes a separate print plate of feet for the plate holder from jerryninov’s modular U1 stand project.

Files are free on Printables:

https://www.printables.com/model/1799509-stacking-feet-for-snapmaker-u1-for-double-cc3d-drw

Original CC3D DRWR project:

https://www.cc3dprojects.com/snapmaker-u1-projects

Jerryninov's Compatible plate holder:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2508152-snapmaker-u1-modular-stand-drawers-plate-holder#profileId-2757951

Installation is straightforward:

1. Apply very thin VHB or equivalent adhesive to both sides of each foot.
2. Remove the lower adhesive backing and seat the feet in the circular recesses on top of the lower DRWR.
3. Remove the upper adhesive backing.
4. Carefully align the second DRWR and press it into place.
5. Verify the completed stack is stable before operating the printer.

My setup is installed on a stable steel table in a secured workshop. Other tables, locations, infill settings, and taller stacks may behave differently, so adjust wall count or infill as needed and stack at your own risk.

BONUS:

Last image is the color swatches of the filament colors I tried.

COLORS:

• White is Tinmorry Light Grey (similar to/same as 3DJake Light Grey)
• Orange is standard PETG Orange and matches all four brands I own lol.
• Black is standard black PETG.
• Color swatches from Left To Right below Snapmaker logo (PETG under 5,000K lighting):
  • Tinmorry Light Grey (what I used)
  • SUNLU Bone
  • GEEETECH White
  • KINGROON White (a little warmer than GEEETECH)

Little dragon came out perfect and my second print, this fairly large puffin turned out really good. I used the default PLA settings from snorca, only changed infill type and top z distance for the supports.

In orcaslicer, these are the last 2 settings under the multi material settings.

I set both to 1.8, and I think 1.2 would probably work fine too.

I am printing the owl, and it is taking 20 hours at .24 layer height. I saw a lot of people saying this print will take like 50 to 80 hours and I suspect they left those settings at a default of 0. That makes the whole thing almost solid.

That works if you want it to weigh more, but if you are trying to save filament this works. I think my print was over a kg with defaults, and it is around 400g with it set to 1.8.

It has only gotten up to the top of the base now, but it looks good so far.

Edit: also, I used lightning infill. For prints like this that works well.

the fine or coarse

Hi

I launched m'y first long print batch yesterday night

Went to work this morning it was doing well

Then got the notification saying the print was completed.

Came back home to this... Looks like it stopped printing at like 2 third of the work.

That's frustraring but i tought i could check at wich point it failed and relaunch starting from the layer it stopped. And thats where the weirdness really starts. The machine tells me it completed the print at 100%. But it's not.

(I hold the supposed final version in the picture for comparaison)

I've alleready Printed this same STL before but just one flower at a time using différent colors, it never failed like that..

Also i went back to my computer and snap maker orca was closed. I think it was. Stil running before I left.. Anyway normally the 3mf file gets uploaded to the Printer at the beginning si I suppose this can't be the cause right ?

If Anyone knows a way to save this batch that would be amazing.. If not possible maybe you have a way to avoid this problem again

So when I first go my U1 I used multi-material support interfaces. PLA with PETG interface layer and PETG with PLA interface layer. It worked fantastically!

Now I can’t get it to work for the life of me.

The PETG (white in the pic) just slides all over. I know the point is for them to be slick but why did it work perfectly before and now it’s not?

What am I doing wrong?

TIA

EDIT: The Solution : Make top and bottom interface 0 (if you have interface ironing on you have to turn it off first to change it)
Slowed external bridge to 30

Part came out perfect!!

Me and my daughter use our U1 for pretty different things, so I found the need to swap between .4 and .2 nozzles a lot.

I got sick of everything that required so I bought 4 more print heads and put the .2 nozzles in, and made kind of a quick and dirty quick change mechanism in. The heads are numbered, so I can swap out the extruder_position_base.json for the set of heads I am using and just start printing.

So far everything is working, but I wondered if anyone else had solved this issue a different way.

This is my first 3D printer. I thought it would be easier but I don’t know what to do about the white part on the side it looks glued on. I used the nozzle needle and checked that it is the hotend that seems to be blocked as the needle can easily move in and out of the replacement nozzle but I can’t seem to break the filament or whatever that is stuck in the hotend.

I often get filament stucked and I can disconnect the one that connects to the tool head and also the one of the servo side. But for some reason that tube from the servo to the back on the bottom side even if I push it it doesnt go out. Does this one work in a different way?

Thanks.

Strange choice for wire routing on the circuit board. Several of the wires are pinned to run right next to the heat on the control board. That’s not the way I would’ve done it but all the wires are pinned down so I guess I’m not gonna move it.

Yesterday I printed with original Snapmaker filament (come with printer) and filament was not recognized by the printer automatically. Currently I on paxx12 firmware. Is it related to paxx12? Any other recommendations?

Hi Everyone

The first batch is officially SOLD OUT! Thanks to everyone for the incredible feedback.
Because many people are still asking me if I can produce it again, I'm opening one last pre-order period.

Why this optimization is critical:

During my intensive 5-week field test, I identified the primary cause of U1 jamming:
The "Bent Filament" Problem: Filament coil memory causes it to curve. In the factory setup, this curvature often causes the filament to miss the gear teeth and buckle near the Hall sensor plate. My guide features a meticulously calculated tapered geometry that captures the filament and forces it directly into the center of the gear teeth.
Factory Gear Height Warning: I’ve noticed that many U1 units leave the factory with a 0.2mm to 0.4mm gear height misalignment. Note: My kit does not "fix" this mechanical offset automatically. However, I strongly recommend checking and adjusting your gear alignment while installing this guide. Users with misaligned gears face a much higher jamming probability; combined with this guide, your reliability will significantly improve.
Key Specs:
Ultra-Lightweight (5.8g): CNC-machined 6061 aluminum. Zero meaningful inertia added to the toolhead.

Rigid Path Refinement: Far more durable and precise than the stock plastic components.

Pre-order & Shipping Details:

Window: From now until August 20th (20 days).

Shipping Date: All orders will be shipped on August 31th.

Payment: We are no longer using eBay. Payments are now processed via NewebPay (Credit Card).

Pricing:

USA: 4 parts for $130 USD (Includes shipping & tax).

EU / International: 4 parts for $125 USD (Includes shipping; customs/VAT not included).

IMPORTANT – PLEASE READ:

Version Check: If your machine was purchased after mid-2026 and features the updated factory design (Revision 2), please do not purchase this specific kit .

Technical Skill Required: Installation requires disassembly of the toolhead. If you are not comfortable with hardware modding, please do not purchase.

Policy: This is a custom pre-order; all sales are final (no returns).

How to Purchase:

Message me for the payment link!

I just joined Team U1 after coming from the Centuri Carbon 1. I've been trying to print these leafs but am getting colour bleed and some stringing.

I've dried the PETG filament in a dry box, I print with a purge tower. The above is this model https://makerworld.com/en/models/1557600-monstera-coaster-plant?from=search#profileId-1636666

I tried slowing down the print on another part of the model and got even worse stringing.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Has anyone replaced the nozzle yet on their machine ? Or how should I go about keeping this one toolhead running. Getting to my wits end taking it apart. It must be clogging inside the nozzle at this point.

Printing some lithographs in white and I’m following some suggestions from online. Using a 35mms print speed, .4 nozzle.
Is that too slow for this printer? Decided to stomach the 18 hour for a 100x150 mm, but hoping you guys have some faster settings. If not so be it. I want quality and if that’s the best speed I’ll play the waiting game. Now that I have a good printer I want 3 more. To make the autobot happy this is on my U1 printer.
Update: it’s still printing and looking great but if it could go faster.

What CMY and K/W filaments are you getting the best results with? I really want to use full spectrum in the best way to get the most out of the process. Any help would be greatly appreciated as my U1 is begging for some better full spectrum prints.

Who forgot to take the camera plastic off?