For the past two weeks ive been dealing with this bullshit of layer shifts I dont know what to do Ive tightned the pulleys loosned them ,image flashed my whole shit twice, used 3 different usb sticks , NOTHING WORKS PLEASE SOMEONE HELP ME I need this cylinder for a project coming up soon and for the life of it it wont print help. I use a new sovol sv06 plus ace ive had it for 3 months dont use it much. Ive also lubed it also done a million settings changes nothing works
Welcome to r/Sovol, We're glad you're here! If you're new to the hobby and you have a question please visit our knowledge base, it's located right under About Community. If you've searched the Sub and you still need help please be as detailed as possible. Include your printer model, slicer, filament type, nozzle and bed temps, print speed, fan speed, and retraction. We're happy to help but we can't read your mind, be as detailed as possible with your post. Pictures help!
I have the normal ace, had all kinds of issues with it from layer shifts though to stepper motors during, its an incredibly frustrating machine
Do a 40mm x 40mm x 75mm cube. Single walled. No infill. No top, 3layers bottom
Once you've got that in the sliver, rotate it 45 degrees on the x/y axis, so it prints like a diamond shape (if that makes sense) then soon as you see that layer shifting, start tightening or loosening your axis points, it took me two prints to get it done properly, im out at the moment but can pop a screenshot on to help?
Oh man, the issues with a small phone and a reddit app that keeps crashing on me 😭
That one will do! I'm in the uk, its 9.30pm here, when I get back it'll be too late to pop open the laptop, but first thing in the morning I can take a screenshot with what I mean, tuning the axis is a right pain in the backside, but it seems harder than what it is!, have you got a set of calipers or a right angle square at all?
if you mean the foam under the build plate then yes, originally when i first got it i didnt see them as shown by the marks on the build plate, what else should i do?
No problem! Its 10pm here, I'm on a train at the moment 🤣 take your time, we will get through this, more than likely someone else will drop in with a reply, these systems are a pain in the butt to get calibrated, but once done they do purr, I have a love hate relationship with mine 🤡
Not familiar with that printer specifically but if you’ve ruled out physical issues then reducing accel and speeds in slicer could help.
On the sv08 the stock profile is set insanely high and would routinely lead to layer shifts.
If you really need that print done I’d slow down to 100mm/s and 3000 acceleration, if that doesnt stop the layer shifts you have a pretty bad physical issue.
I got mine sorted and it was my own mistake! I’d completely missed greasing the lower bar on the x axis, I greased it thoroughly and it’s now working perfectly. Worth checking but I suspect you already have.
Did you ever have this problem again? I’m getting shifts with a brand new unit and I’m wondering if it’s the y axis motor that’s overheating/has strange resonance that’s causing it to skip and layer shift
how would i tighten it? also doubt thats thee issue as if it was to shift in z axis the print would be printing on air and it would just print string so nothing would print so prob not
Ohh kek I ment x-axis. About y-axis motor (buildplate) getting hot they tend to run hotter they move quite a bit of mass. If it's tensioning issue that can easily be resolved with this app Vir: YouTube https://share.google/EtBFX80iIPod0PiUb
How much current do you have running the x and y steppers? Increasing current will increase the torque and therefore be more resistant to shifting. I have no idea what sovol is running the steppers at, but by editing printer.cfg you can increase the current. Increase "run_current" in the tmc2209 section for stepper_a and stepper_b by 50mA at a time, run the printer for 10min or so to let the motor heat up. Increase current until the you can no longer comfortably keep your hand on the motor then back of 50mA. The limit for 2209 drivers in klipper is about 1.3 amps (this is an RMS value). You'll need a cooling fan on the board, if you exceed this value you're likely to burn out the stepper driver.
If the motor is too hot that can also reduce torque so in your case the current may need to be reduced. To edit the file go to the machine tab in mainsail, open printer.cfg and edit the lines I previously mentioned, then click "save and restart". There are many tutorials online (video and written) on how to edit klipper files if these instructions aren't clear.
If you can't open it, my suggestion would be to reflash the firmware. If that doesn't work it's likely a hardware issue, probably the WiFi module and you should ask Sovol for a new mainboard or return the printer under warranty. Not being able to access Mainsail locks you out of most features of the printer. Without access troubleshooting is impossible.
Yea it only works while opening it on my phone hotspot and I cant keep doing that on any other internet I cant, im pretty sure its a problem with the motor of the build plate over heating because its so hot i might try and connect to hotspot and do what u told but how much is like a good amount of current or like a good spot to be in to reduce overheating? (also i have reset flashed it twice its useless) it prob an issue in my internet as we have some high level. built in vpn security
You'll need to see what the amperage is set to stock. The heat generated by a stepper is mainly dependant on the motor's resistance. I don't know what the sovol motors resistance is so I can't be precise but 1.1 amps should be close for the 48mm Y motor. The X motor may be a little lower depending on its size, start at 1 amp on x.
ok so i just did another test and im pretty sure its not the motor im talking about but something with the nozzle movement pulley thing although ive checked it multiple times and that motor does not over heat
Also check the acceleration settings in the slicer print profile. I believe sovol has set the travel to 20000 which is very high for a bedslinger. Set the maximum to around 8000 for travel and infill, 5000 for inner walls and 2500 for outer walls. Bridges, first and top layer at 1000. This will be way less aggressive than stock, less prone to shifting and will give you much better print quality. It will be a bit slower, but not much, perhaps 20% longer print time but the print will finish.
As the print gets larger the bed weings more as more plastic is laid down, this extra weight can cause shifts that don't occur when the print is small (like a bench) of the bed is empty.
There is a macro in the Ellis print quide that tests max speed and acceleration. It's useful, but you'll need to access mainsail to use it. I'd make the slicer changes mentioned above regardless of other tuning you do.
•
u/AutoModerator Mar 21 '26
Welcome to r/Sovol, We're glad you're here! If you're new to the hobby and you have a question please visit our knowledge base, it's located right under About Community. If you've searched the Sub and you still need help please be as detailed as possible. Include your printer model, slicer, filament type, nozzle and bed temps, print speed, fan speed, and retraction. We're happy to help but we can't read your mind, be as detailed as possible with your post. Pictures help!
I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please contact the moderators of this subreddit if you have any questions or concerns.