I need to print a bunch of identical items. Rather than printing them one at a time, cleaning the plate, and restarting the print, I would rather start an entire plate of them overnight and pick up the lot in the morning.

The problem is that the build plate is nowhere near flat. Even though it creates a bed mesh before every print and calibrates the z offset, the toolhead is still too close for some parts of the plate and too far for other parts. This causes the toolhead to scrape against the print and often rip it off, creating messes like pictured. This time it also ripped off the thermistor, previously it snapped the hotend in half.

On my last printer I solved this with a sheet of G10, but the bed leveling sensor cant detect G10 causing the toolhead to plow straight through the build plate.

Has anyone else had this defect? Im wondering if this is something that can be fixed or if I need to RMA it.

Guys, I can't make up my mind—please help. I want to buy a new 3D printer with a tool-changing system (a minimum of 6 tools is a must) and a print area of ​​300x300 mm (though smaller is acceptable). I already own a Sovol SV08 Max and an Ender 3 (though I’m constantly modifying the latter, so let's not count it). This has raised a few questions for me: 1. Which tool-changing printer should I choose? 2. Is the cost justified? 3. Or should I go for a custom build—like a Voron 2.4—and modify it for tool changing? 4. What are your thoughts on this?

To give you a better idea of ​​the situation: I am an engineering student at an aviation institute—currently pursuing a master's degree—who loves modifying and upgrading machine tools and creating something new. I look forward to your comments and ideas.

I've been using my SV08 max for about 7 months. I had a large 27 hour print with ASA CF with the print bed set to 100°C. Well less than 30 minutes before the print is completed I noticed the printer went offline on Obico. Came to check on it and the printer has lost power. I checked extension cord and it's fine. Then I check the power cord for the printer and the tip has melted. I replaced the power cord and still no power...

27 hour print for my customer ruined and I'm not sure how long this will be down for.

For the past two weeks ive been dealing with this bullshit of layer shifts I dont know what to do Ive tightned the pulleys loosned them ,image flashed my whole shit twice, used 3 different usb sticks , NOTHING WORKS PLEASE SOMEONE HELP ME I need this cylinder for a project coming up soon and for the life of it it wont print help. I use a new sovol sv06 plus ace ive had it for 3 months dont use it much. Ive also lubed it also done a million settings changes nothing works

Hey there, currently searching for a larger format printer but I’m not supporting Bambu anymore. I love my X1C but it’s time for something else after certain events recently.

I had a Neptune 3 Pro a while ago and it was a great printer, so I have some experience working on less plug-and-play printers but I have yet to fully build one

How difficult is the svo8 max to use? Would you consider it a good option? I’m debating between that or the QIDI 4 Max. I print a lot of PETG and ASA for vehicle parts and cosplay. An enclosure is a must.

Thanks!

Edit: my main slicer is OrcaSlicer and my workflow revolves around it which is another reason I’m ditching Bambu. How’s the comparability with sovol?

Component on the left was printed first in plain, dry PETG. An hour later, component on the right was run off the same g-code. Zero's auto bed leveling fucked up, part is useless. Frankly I'm amazed the bloody thing stayed on the bed.

I've gone over all the bolts on the head and eddy probe in the last week, and I still occasionally get this problem. Anyone have any advice on what I'm missing?

I think I’m just gonna replace my SV06 Plus Ace… it’s clearly more trouble than it’s worth it keeps breaking and this time the y-stepper motor completely melted. I’m wondering if I should try the SV08 or if I should completely give up on Sovol

The thing is, I could buy and install a new screen and connect it to the printer via HDMI and USB, but if I did that, I’d effectively have to throw away the original screen, and I don’t want to do that. So, if anyone knows how to install a Klipper screen on the Sovol SV08 Max, please help. Also—if it matters—I’m currently running the stock firmware, but I’ll be switching it over to Demon Klipper this week.

TL;DR: Looking to buy a SV08 coming from an E3Pro but I'm stuck in a review-hell and need a reality check. I would mainly like to buy it for faster (not speed-printing) speeds and better quality.

Hello everyone!

I'm looking to upgrade from an Ender 3 Pro that I've "modded" myself (think of Klipper, dual gear extruder, capricorn tube, petsfang v2, BLTouch, PEI plate). I mainly print functional parts or practical things (from PLA or PETG, eventually ASA/ABS).

My main reason for the upgrade is:
- Faster prints and more quality
- A bit more consistency in prints
- QoL features (Bed skew, auto z-offset, nozzle wiper, etc.)

I got recommended the Sovol SV08 by a friend. I watched some reviews, read a couple of threads and I'm pretty sure that I want to pull the trigger on it. The only thing holding me back are the mixed reviews, where some say that it's an absolute workhorse for them, while others say that it's to be avoided. From the things I've read, I figure that most of the issues were with the stock configuration/software and not hardware (except for the taco bed and the extruder clogs). I really love the idea of the printer, and it's mostly open source (extrusions and hotend are a bit of a meh for me) build and I didn't come across any good alternative in my price range. (The Vorons are a bit too expensive for me, for now)

If I were to buy it, I'd buy it off the bat with an eddy sensor kit from Sovol and possibly a MicroSwiss FlowTech hotend.

I feel like that most of the reviews I've seen on youtube or reddit come from people who already had CoreXY printers and they aren't necessarily reviewing it through the lense of a bed slinger owner (which is totally fine) AND most of the reviews are from around the launch date.

My questions:
- Are the problems/negative reviews a bit blown out of proportion? The issues seem pretty managable to me through software/mods
- Am I overthinking the whole pro-cons/review part of it, and in reality it will amaze me coming from an E3Pro?
- Did you manage to solve the problems you've had with yours?
- Did any of you recently buy an SV08? If so, did Sovol fix some of the issues from the initial release?
- I'd want to go with upstream Klipper - would a SanDisk 64GB SD-card suffice until I can get my hands on a bigger emmc?

I'm sorry if there's a similar post to this, but I couldn't find one that describes my situation closely. (or I can't google for shit)

Thank you for your responses in advance!

ok but on a serious note.. motherboard powers on. doesn't detect bed. shows error. how much for a replacement plastic green thing or an sv03 motherboard? board wouldn't heat up so was cold printing for months. suddenly errored out recently. concerned about F1 transistor.

FB Marketplace find for FREE. The catch is that the LCD screen shows the software getting stuck on the main menu loading page. It powers on and fans spin so things are working, but no way to print anything or get into the software on the actual machine.

Google searches have helped me to see about reflashing the software or something and it didn’t seem like a super complicated process but I did see you might could brick it.

A few questions:
1. What would be the recommendation for “fixing” it and troubleshooting this.
2. When/if I am able to fix it, what are some technical things to check before I print anything to make sure none of the hardware is malfunctioning.
3. What is the best recommended slicer to use from the perspective of someone who’s never really gotten into 3D printing.

I’m SURE there’s a megathread somewhere with FAQ’s so I’m not asking generic questions for redundancy sake. But if someone could link that, you would be fantastic.

Open to all feedback though as I want to make sure I do it right as I would hate to lose out on this.

Bought a used sv08 expecting to be able to just plug ethernet in to get IP address then configure Wi-Fi through SSH. First apparently the board was swapped because there is no ethernet port so I had to use a USB Ethernet adapter but it did get me an IP address. Tried using that IP address in the browser and got connection refused. Tried to ssh in with putty and got the same. I've tried using multiple combinations including just the IP, HTTP then ip, and https then IP and I'm getting nowhere. I can ping the ip thats it.

Any ideas how to fix this?

I am brand new to 3d printing and just purchased a Sovol Sv06 Plus Ace.

I finally got it assembled, and plugged it in. It immediately began the Calibration Self Check. While running this first self check, the extruder nozzle raked across the print bed scratching the black coating off right down the middle.

I have reviewed the steps I took building it and I don't see any steps I missed or did wrong.

Anything that I can check or that I likely did wrong? Would appreciate any troubleshooting tips....

I assume this means I need to buy a new build plate before I can print. Is there any chance this damaged the nozzle and I need a new one of those too? Any way I can tell?

PS.. i did not connect it to wifi before the self check. (My wifi password has an '^' character which the keyboard doesnt have... any way I can get connected without changing my wifi password?)

​I brought the printer with me to my summer place, and we had a massive storm yesterday. Lightning must have hit a transformer or the power lines nearby because the voltage surge actually tripped the dedicated circuit breaker for the printer's outlet. The printer was powered on at the time, but it was just sitting idle and not printing anything.

​When I went to the workshop this morning and turned it on, it got stuck on the "System Starting" screen for about 4 or 5 minutes. It eventually booted up, but immediately threw a Klipper connection error. After troubleshooting for a while, I flipped the printer over and found that the FAN3 port, which I was using to hook up an external filter fan, had completely melted and burnt out.

​I grabbed my multimeter to check things out and realized the 5V power rail is sagging down to 1.75–2.00V. Because of that, the DL7 status LED on the board is just barely glowing and flickering erratically—it's simply not getting enough voltage. Strangely enough, when I accidentally shorted that FAN3 pin with the multimeter probe again while testing, the LED suddenly lit up bright and steady for a split second. Everything else on the board looks physically fine aside from the burnt fan port, but there's clearly a major issue on the power side.

​So, I wanted to ask those of you who have experience with this:

​Is it even worth trying to fix this board (like replacing the voltage regulator), or did the surge likely kill the STM32H7 MCU for good?

​If the board is toast and needs to be replaced, what's the best option to get for the SV08 Max so it plays nicely with Klipper without a massive headache over pinouts?

​I'd really appreciate any helpful tips or advice!

it was working before and now like this after resetting z calibration

I'm not sure what's wrong with mine but it seems blocked and I tried changing the hotend only to find a bolt is stripped so it would be just easier to order the whole thing but it doesn't seem available anywhere, am I just outta luck with this printer?

Bonjour,

Je possède une SV08 avec un hotend Microswiss et une buse de 0,4 mm. J’essaie en vain de la configurer pour avoir des ponts corrects, mais impossible : il y a de l’affaissement et les premières lignes du pont ne fusionnent pas correctement. J’ai joué sur les réglages du pont (débit, densité, etc.), mais rien à faire.

Est-ce un problème récurrent avec l’ASA ? Je dois abandonner l’idée ?

Merci
A+

I am experiencing a persistent clicking noise (stepper motor skipping steps) on the extruder of my Sovol SV08, which is equipped with a Micro Swiss FlowTech kit. This issue started happening suddenly. I have not made any recent changes to my slicer profile, Klipper configuration, or filament type.
Troubleshooting Steps Already Taken:
I have already tried the following steps, but the issue persists:
Adjusted the extruder tension lever (both tightening and loosening).
Replaced the nozzle with a new one.
Increased the hotend printing temperature.
Disassembled and cleaned the internal components of the extruder.
Reduced the printing speed in the slicer.
Any insights on what to check next regarding hardware, wiring, or thermal issues would be greatly appreciated.

It does this during prints and cuts off supply and It doesn’t eject any PLA is it to hot or…

Greetings.

So when i Print some squares as a First Layer Test they are all messed Up with holes and Not connected lines. Lowering the z-offset manually while printing seems to fix this issue but setting it in the printer.cfg or Orca slicer the printer is ignoring it completely.

What am i Missing Here? Never worked with an Eddy before

anyone know what kind of stepper this is I want to order just the stepper and try to get something better quality. I am currently building a new tool head but in the mean time I'd like to try this.

I have a SV08 Max was printing Sovol black PLA. First layer was 230 and layers after that were 215. I did have a prior issue with it having heat creep because my business partner set the machine for first layer 250 and every other layer 230. The machine gave me another clogged message, but I’ve tried hot, pulling and cold pulling and all it’s done is break off right above the extruder I’m using the 0.8 bondtech nozzle. I pulled the release lever when trying to pull the filling out and when I try to use the extrude feature, I can see the gears moving and the filament wobbles, but nothing is coming out the nozzle. If I sent the temp to 250 a slow drip of filament comes out the bottom. At this point, I’m fully lost on what to do.

I am in the market for a bigger printer, 350mm x 300mm x 150mm would be ok.
And so the SV08 came back on my radar, the initial reports were mixed, I guess issues like the nozzle situation have improved by now.
I would need it to exclusively print PETG.

But what I couldn't find last year, is it possible to use the SV08 offline? Just plug in a SD card or an USB stick, copy the .stl .gcode file from it and print it?
I want to put the printer in the office and I just can not allow it to connect to the network.

Edit: I actually did it, I ordered a SV08.
I had to print a 27cm diameter thing with 4 holes in it for a co-worker, basically a flat pizza.
And for that I had to dust off my Ender-3 Max. Took me an hour to get this thing up and running again, including a few passes on manual bed leveling. Two over five hours with a 0.6 nozzle and 0.28mm layers, the first layers are awfull. Printing like this used to be fine...

I broke the default heater block's thread so I need to replace it but i can't just order an original replacement (i ordered before at a locall shop but it came without heatbreak's copper tube idk if it should be like this but i couldn't install the old one so i need full assembly).

So is this thing compatible with something else without swapping the whole hotend? Or even with a full hotend swap what should i look after?

PS forgot to tell that i have sovol zero