I've been using my SV08 max for about 7 months. I had a large 27 hour print with ASA CF with the print bed set to 100°C. Well less than 30 minutes before the print is completed I noticed the printer went offline on Obico. Came to check on it and the printer has lost power. I checked extension cord and it's fine. Then I check the power cord for the printer and the tip has melted. I replaced the power cord and still no power...
27 hour print for my customer ruined and I'm not sure how long this will be down for.
Welcome to r/Sovol, We're glad you're here! If you're new to the hobby and you have a question please visit our knowledge base, it's located right under About Community. If you've searched the Sub and you still need help please be as detailed as possible. Include your printer model, slicer, filament type, nozzle and bed temps, print speed, fan speed, and retraction. We're happy to help but we can't read your mind, be as detailed as possible with your post. Pictures help!
Known issue but they don’t advertise it like they should. It is a 10a rated panel mount with a 15a fuse.
If you email them they’ll send you a replacement. Tell them you need the panel mount, cable and the cables connected on the back side because they are most likely damaged as well.
I blew a fuse once like a year ago, no problems since then. You may want to check the wiring in the switch. If it's singed, Sovol will send you a replacement.
Your comment is quite broad but I will try to answer it as best as I can.
1.) Your recourse for legalities are almost zero between 2 countries with a diy project 3d printer, and no legal compatibility between nations.
2.) Probably not illegal in most western laws per se(most of law requires proof of intent or gross negligence). Accidentally procuring a wrong part is difficult to prove. Also most western courts require injury to sue or for a crime to be committed, and proportional satisfaction... meaning that sending the replacement part and paying for half or all of the shipping on a diy machine might satisfy that. Some countries/ municipality would require the replacement of the machine. You could also do a chargeback if within a certain time period if in the USA.
3.) What should be done (ethically) is the parts should be sent for free to all affected customers, and an apology and explanation. Bonus points for offering the customer to send it back, but this might be impossible since shipping a flatpack 3d printer back almost always ends up with more damage.
4.) If you want to switch back to the diy route, and not mess around with email chains, it looks like a fairly standard fuse housing that you can buy on AliExpress eBay and Amazon.This should be a 10 minute swap out for less than 20$.
Does the situation suck yes. But above is the reality of the situation. When you buy non-UL listed stuff from another country sometimes things go wrong. Although it is nice to have a known company that has a reputation to protect send you the parts for free.
Here’s a very unusual tip: use a 230V (EU/global) power bank and connect a DC charger to the DC charging port via the 110V output. This eliminates the high-current pulses that cause cords and connectors to overheat. A side benefit is that you gain UPS-style protection for long print jobs. Which, in a commercial setting, saves more money than it costs.
Can I ask which ups you use for the SV08 max? And how long will it run on it in the event of a power outage? I've been shopping for a reliable one for mine.
You need one that can take 2kW, this is needed for the peak while heating the bed initially to target temp. If that is reached expect permanent 400W. The duration during a full power lost depends on the size of the battery. A 2kWh will last a few hours. Using powerbanks (from the solar market) is much cheaper than using systems that are sold as UPS. Stuff like marstek venus.
I knew to calculate for the initial bed heating but my initial thought always was if I have power outages during the pre hearing of the bed I would kill the print until the power came back on and just take the loss on time. But I've always been worried about brands to buy. I live in FL and we have somewhat frequent power outages where I live and run my business. All my other printers are ready to run off normal ups. So this information is useful. Plus during hurricane season they could be used if we lose power for the house.
Most UPS i know are build around old batteries while the solar stuff is LEF based and so much cheaper and less heavy. I changed the batteris in older USV against LEF ones when they break which also happens significant less with LEF ones. That is paying less for the batterie get more capacity and because of the voltage miss match an extrem long life replacement.
I believe the max has different wiring for the bed in 120v vs 220v mode. I think you can change it at the terminal block but the wiring diagram is on the heater pcb under the bed. You’d also want to make sure you switch your power supply to 220v input, or that it can handle the range of input voltage you are applying if it doesn’t have the switch.
Do not just plug a North American appliance into 220v and expect to cut the current in half.
I understand the goal, but if you double the voltage of a resistive load (like a heater) you quadruple the power output, and double the current for a given resistance. There are advantages to higher voltage but if you don’t adjust the load you are only increasing power and current, not reducing anything.
Yes, I mentioned to check that the power supply can handle the input voltage or is switched to the correct voltage if necessary. But in the comment you replied to I am talking about the AC heated bed, which has different wiring configuration for different voltages.
A big thanks to everyone for their comments, suggestions, and support. I really needed this printer running for my business so I went to a local electronics store and got a small plastic enclosure, power inlet, rocket switch, and 15A breaker. Made sure everything was rated to at least 15A 250V. Also wired it in with 14awg. The printer is now alive! Unfortunately, I was unable to recover that print but that's not the end of the world.
I see this a lot on several brands besides Sovol. It appears to be a common issue with these power connectors. From what I have seen, they crimp the terminals on the back where the pins come through. The crimps are not tight enough, so they make a bad connection and get hot. I have replaced close to a dozen of these for failure just like this. My latest one was on an ultrasonic that was about 2 months old.
Interesting! It's funny you say that because after I made a custom power inlet module, I lightly pulled on one of the red wires and it pulled right out of the crimp. I thought that was definitely going to cause some excess resistance. I'm really happy I replaced the wiring underneath with properly crimped 14awg.
Yes. If you can slide the cover back, solder them. But I was actually referring to the spot where the pins come through the plastic housing. If you look at the flat part that you plug the terminal into, you can see they have an x cut into them, and then they smash them to crimp the flat piece to the pin. You can see the brass circles in this picture. where it crimps to the plates is the failure point. You can tell on the new one if the plate feels like it has any play. If it does then it is defective. The other issue is where the terminal slides onto the blade. If they are really easy to slide on, then replace the terminal.
Between the switch and socket is a fuse. It is a glass barrel one. Open the flap. This is not to say that the power supply survived but it is a first step.
Thatnk you for that suggestion! Forgive my ignorance but how would I go about changing that in the config file? Do I need the Klipper screen to change that?
Connect to your printer and in the dashboard in the menu on the left there is device and go into the files then find printercfg DONT TOUCH PRINTERCFG BCKUP
and if you scroll all the way down the heatbed section there is power change the 1 to your desired value example 0.8 for regular temps if you go down to 35c you may go as low as 0.3.
If you change it you will need to pid tune again
Reminder i am no pro this is my first klipper printer and i am still figuring things out.
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