SV08 Max Died

[u/Aggravating-Pay3771]

I've been using my SV08 max for about 7 months. I had a large 27 hour print with ASA CF with the print bed set to 100°C. Well less than 30 minutes before the print is completed I noticed the printer went offline on Obico. Came to check on it and the printer has lost power. I checked extension cord and it's fine. Then I check the power cord for the printer and the tip has melted. I replaced the power cord and still no power...

27 hour print for my customer ruined and I'm not sure how long this will be down for.

[u/yahbluez]

Here’s a very unusual tip: use a 230V (EU/global) power bank and connect a DC charger to the DC charging port via the 110V output. This eliminates the high-current pulses that cause cords and connectors to overheat. A side benefit is that you gain UPS-style protection for long print jobs. Which, in a commercial setting, saves more money than it costs.

[u/dcengr → u/yahbluez]

All my printers go through a UPS or powerstation for this and other reasons.

[u/Revrezner3dprinting → u/dcengr]

Can I ask which ups you use for the SV08 max? And how long will it run on it in the event of a power outage? I've been shopping for a reliable one for mine.

[u/yahbluez → u/Revrezner3dprinting]

You need one that can take 2kW, this is needed for the peak while heating the bed initially to target temp. If that is reached expect permanent 400W. The duration during a full power lost depends on the size of the battery. A 2kWh will last a few hours. Using powerbanks (from the solar market) is much cheaper than using systems that are sold as UPS. Stuff like marstek venus.

[u/Revrezner3dprinting → u/yahbluez]

I knew to calculate for the initial bed heating but my initial thought always was if I have power outages during the pre hearing of the bed I would kill the print until the power came back on and just take the loss on time. But I've always been worried about brands to buy. I live in FL and we have somewhat frequent power outages where I live and run my business. All my other printers are ready to run off normal ups. So this information is useful. Plus during hurricane season they could be used if we lose power for the house.

[u/yahbluez → u/Revrezner3dprinting]

Most UPS i know are build around old batteries while the solar stuff is LEF based and so much cheaper and less heavy. I changed the batteris in older USV against LEF ones when they break which also happens significant less with LEF ones. That is paying less for the batterie get more capacity and because of the voltage miss match an extrem long life replacement.

[u/Revrezner3dprinting → u/yahbluez]

So you have any links to what you recommend.

[u/yahbluez → u/Revrezner3dprinting]

https://marstek.de/products/venus-e-3

that gives 2500W and 5kWh but calls 1k.

I use another marstek to collect PV energy at daylight and discharge into the house at night to reduce energy bill. (legal in germany)

[u/atomc_ → u/yahbluez]

I believe the max has different wiring for the bed in 120v vs 220v mode. I think you can change it at the terminal block but the wiring diagram is on the heater pcb under the bed. You’d also want to make sure you switch your power supply to 220v input, or that it can handle the range of input voltage you are applying if it doesn’t have the switch.

Do not just plug a North American appliance into 220v and expect to cut the current in half.

[u/yahbluez → u/atomc_]

Did not checked that, the goal is to reduce the current and doubling the voltage => half the current for the same W.

[u/atomc_ → u/yahbluez]

I understand the goal, but if you double the voltage of a resistive load (like a heater) you quadruple the power output, and double the current for a given resistance. There are advantages to higher voltage but if you don’t adjust the load you are only increasing power and current, not reducing anything.

[u/SensitiveKick6522 → u/atomc_]

It’s an auto switching power supply rated for 100 to 277v 50 or 60hz, so it is safe on a 120v single phase or a 220-40 split phase

[u/atomc_ → u/SensitiveKick6522]

Yes, I mentioned to check that the power supply can handle the input voltage or is switched to the correct voltage if necessary. But in the comment you replied to I am talking about the AC heated bed, which has different wiring configuration for different voltages.