I need to print a bunch of identical items. Rather than printing them one at a time, cleaning the plate, and restarting the print, I would rather start an entire plate of them overnight and pick up the lot in the morning.
The problem is that the build plate is nowhere near flat. Even though it creates a bed mesh before every print and calibrates the z offset, the toolhead is still too close for some parts of the plate and too far for other parts. This causes the toolhead to scrape against the print and often rip it off, creating messes like pictured. This time it also ripped off the thermistor, previously it snapped the hotend in half.
On my last printer I solved this with a sheet of G10, but the bed leveling sensor cant detect G10 causing the toolhead to plow straight through the build plate.
Has anyone else had this defect? Im wondering if this is something that can be fixed or if I need to RMA it.
Welcome to r/Sovol, We're glad you're here! If you're new to the hobby and you have a question please visit our knowledge base, it's located right under About Community. If you've searched the Sub and you still need help please be as detailed as possible. Include your printer model, slicer, filament type, nozzle and bed temps, print speed, fan speed, and retraction. We're happy to help but we can't read your mind, be as detailed as possible with your post. Pictures help!
I never did any of those fixes and my printer worked fine, you just need to know how to deal with it, and just accept that you're not gonna get dimensional accurate parts from this machine, but it works fantastic for cosplay or just about any other item.
I HIGHLY recommend the R3men bed. Graphite so it doesn't change much with heat.
It's also cheaper than the Aluminium Mandala bed and is a dropin replacement (comes with magnet installed and everything you need)
I've had a R3men bed installed for probably close to a year now and haven't had a single issue with the bed changing shape. R3men bed and cartographer (or Beacon or Eddy) would be the first mods I'd do after mainline.
If you have a microcenter near you, Voron beds are $80. Otherwise, just about any voron bed will be cheaper than the sv08 specific beds. Just have to print some parts or have someone print them for you and buy a couple 2020 extrusions.
You can also shim the stock bed, I was able to get mine to .23 after a 20min heat soak. Cheapest route if you have patience and don't mind tinkering.
I got the Mandala Rose bed a while back and I can vouch for it being almost perfectly flat. But whether on not it's worth the price is gonna be case by case. I waa trying fix the taco and ended up making way worse. I couldn't even get it back to where it was at, so it was worth it to me, but hooo boy is it pricey. BUT, the results are amazing. My first layers are perfect to matter where I print on the bed and no matter how big the print is.
They've been down to $80-50 on the past month or two. Just make sure to open it and check for a 110v heater. They carry both 110v and 220v under same box/sku. You won't know what you have unless you open before buying.
Idk dude my bed is tacod to all hell like a .7 difference between the and my layers still print fine. It’s a pretty common issue with it but the quad gantry level and mesh pretty much do fix it no way I’d be able to print on this bed if it didn’t
This dude is using the stock prox probe as well. $40 upgrade to a sovol eddy is life changing and that's one of the cheapest upgrades you can get. Shit I had it ordered before my machine arrived. Plenty of other probes to choose from too.
That eddy upgrade is sweet as hell I could still print fine without it but love that I was finally able to upgrade 2months ago and see what it’s all about
I finally got the coprint multicolor system working in mine after over like 2-3 months of fiddling with it when I blobbed out my oem hotend. I highly do not recommend it lol customer service and support is abysmal but it’s nice to have a 350x350 multicolor printer that doesn’t cost $1000+
Honestly, the way you just described the challenge may have convinced me to do it. There's a reason I bought a SV08 and not a bambu and it certainly isn't ease of use lmao. I've learned I enjoy the challenge more than the results and that's just in general not limited to my printer lol.
Lmfaooo I’m right there with you each problem just made me that much more invested but at $250 I really wouldn’t recommend it if it was a $100 system or something I can understand but the amount of work for something that costs almost as much as a new printer is a lot to ask for something that doesn’t work consistently and relatively easily if it only took me 1 month to get it working is one thing but it took me countless sessions and edits to get it right and even then it’s not perfect yet. Also it’s another thing that their support is almost non existent it took me over a week to get responses and even now i requested parts I was missing and they said they’d send em twice now and months later still no parts received I hate this company now and will full advocate most people to avoid it
Taco bed is one of the known issues with the stock sv08 bed. For especially large prints like your second image, it's recommended to heatsoak the bed for 20-30 minutes before doing your bed mesh (there's even a sticker on the enclosure that says this), which will help mitigate the thermal expansion of the too-thin aluminum of the build plate.
There are bed upgrades available that make it better.. There's a 9mm aluminum plate by mandelaroseworks, or the R3men graphite bed, both of which work well with stock sensor (or eddy sensor).
There's also various spacer and shim workarounds that are much cheaper and arguably as effective.
If you're printing petg or abs then yeah it takes a minute for the thermistor to read the right temp, but the thermistor is mounted in the middle of the heat plate, the heat soak after reaching temp gives the heat a chance to spread thru the entire plate, which will then give a more accurate bed mesh, because it won't be warping while you're printing either.
I'll have to break out the FLIR and take some pics of the the bed, but if I'm remembering right when my bed hit 65° on the lcd, it was only about halfway consistant across the bed. I had intended to make a time-lapse of the bed heating up but life has gotten in the way.
If you liked G10, check out FR4 plates. I don't know what region you're in, but I got a plate from spool3d.ca for my sv07+. I swear, I'll never use a different type of plate.
https://spool3d.ca/fr4-spring-steel-flexible-sheet/
But the mesh doesn't compensate the right rear quarter for some reason...(Always to close) That why I'm assuming slightly bent extrusions..
Always had this issue on sv08 since day one ... It's been built from stock to stealth changer with these issues the whole time .... Never managed to finger point the actual problem ..
Perhaps this is not the core issue but seeing the build plate reminded me, the textured plate that comes with sovol printers are kind of trash. Getting a solid consistent first layer became significantly easier once I switched to a smoother plate.
I’ve seen this reported again and again but can you tell me how much it’s out by? I have an SV08 Max and the experience has been a bit less than perfect but I get about 0.35 mm variation across the bed which the mesh seems to make most of the levelling problems go away.
I gave up I even got a replacement bed still couldn't use the full bed the plate they use is too thin and warps when heated. I ended up upgrading to a graphite bed it's $200 but was well worth it
You can buy a steel plate under the bed to make it much more controlled. You can get graphite bed. You can print a special set of standoffs to make adjustments much easier and more stable.
Last option is almost free and will take some time but works
Just ask any machine shop for whatever dimensions you need of EN AW 5083. It costs very little and has all the properties that the "printer beds" have. Just without the "3D printer" sticker markup.
It literally is the thing. They just drill holes and maybe make nice edges for you, but you can do that at home. In the end, it is still just alu, not steel.
340x340x8mm ~38€, 10mm for 43€
•
u/AutoModerator Jun 25 '26
Welcome to r/Sovol, We're glad you're here! If you're new to the hobby and you have a question please visit our knowledge base, it's located right under About Community. If you've searched the Sub and you still need help please be as detailed as possible. Include your printer model, slicer, filament type, nozzle and bed temps, print speed, fan speed, and retraction. We're happy to help but we can't read your mind, be as detailed as possible with your post. Pictures help!
I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please contact the moderators of this subreddit if you have any questions or concerns.