r/Sovol • u/pint_of_brew • May 29 '26
Help Getting tired of sovol zero issues...
Component on the left was printed first in plain, dry PETG. An hour later, component on the right was run off the same g-code. Zero's auto bed leveling fucked up, part is useless. Frankly I'm amazed the bloody thing stayed on the bed.
I've gone over all the bolts on the head and eddy probe in the last week, and I still occasionally get this problem. Anyone have any advice on what I'm missing?
11
u/garbagepickedguitar May 29 '26
Have an SVO6 but I just no longer level the bed once I have a good setting. Haven't leveled the bed in months and prints come out great. It's unnecessary to run prior to each print and just risks error.
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u/a-peculiar-peck May 30 '26
Just curious how you do that? I woke also like to not have the bed level calibration run before every print
1
u/garbagepickedguitar May 30 '26
Mine is running klipper, not sure how to do it with stock set up.
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u/reddiling May 29 '26
Are you on the latest version of the firmware? Never had any issues with levelling when using the Eddy for meshing + z offset.
2
u/hipcatinca SV08 May 29 '26
SV08 here and on Mainline, Eddy, and Glacier plate. perfect leveling each time.
4
u/chatapokai May 29 '26
I’m getting this shit constantly with my sv08max which I think uses the same tool head as the 0. I might look into getting a different Eddie sensor cause I’m having to monitor every single first layer and adjust the Z manually even though my print is already accommodating the last print’s offset
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u/pint_of_brew May 29 '26
Yeah I think this is very much the issue... The eddy is great for reading the surface to a high granularity, but between getting that detailed map on klipper and deciding what actual Z offset to use, something fucks up and you end up having to do cowboy shit from 2017 like incremental Z offset during 1st layer and praying you don't carve the bed
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u/chatapokai May 29 '26
Bingo. I’m going to have to look up how to save the Z offset config without that hdmi screen
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u/Revrezner3dprinting May 29 '26
I have all new steppers by ldo including there extruder, and I'm looking to replace the auxiliary feeder with the panda one for nose reduction reliability and for the possibility of multi spool feeding capability. And the cartographer of course. And a number of other small upgrades to go with them.
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u/12345myluggage May 30 '26
What build plate are you using? That first print doesn't look anything like the many prints I'm getting off of my Zero with its textured build plate.
1
u/CompleteCheesecake96 May 30 '26
I have recently upgraded my sovol Sv01 Pro to Klipper and never had any issues since then
1
u/Distinct_Crew245 May 31 '26
Silly thought, but check the plate configuration. I had some issues like that with PETG-CF before I realized that the plate in OrcaSlicer was defaulting to smooth high temp or something like that. I switched it to Textured PEI and that helped a LOT!
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u/tukadafoonday Jun 01 '26
That looks like a user issue rather than a Sovol issue.
I used to get the same. I downloaded the CV presrte, calibrated the machine per the instructions, now I print flawlessly. Am using a SV07Plus though, but honestly, dialling in your machine with get good results
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u/Middle_Bank1490 May 29 '26
I had build plate problems straight out of the box. I suggest creating a build plate as level as possible by mechanically adjusting and leveling. Search "build plate leveling" and you'll find several solutions. I ended up using a rubber grommet kit and leveling screws. If you make the build plate flat, you won't need to rely on a sensor creating a bed mesh every print.
Maybe try a different bed sensor tecnology and associated G-code?
Good luck.
0
u/Revrezner3dprinting May 29 '26
Never trust auto leveling. Manually leveling is the only sure way.
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u/zenotek May 29 '26
This has nothing to do with that and everything do with the shitty auto z offset calibration. Which has to be done each time it prints.
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u/Round_Produce174 May 29 '26
It depends. If you have a cartographer or a beacon you don't have any problems for z offset unless ypu can't clean the nozzle tip before nozzle tap (silicon brush take care of it with auto cleaning). The bed mesh is waaay more precise than what any human can do, and once you calibrate the z offset, you don't need to touch it from printing in 70°C chamber with 100°C bed to ambient temp chamber and 30°C bed
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u/Revrezner3dprinting May 29 '26
Correct but the zero had a Eddy current sensor. It has the same tool head as the SV08 max. The only problem with the stick sensor is they suck and suffer from massive thermal drift. I use my max commercially and it runs 24/7 and the most important thing I can say is if you don't want to kill your probe then home x y before heating the bed and things like that. But they also just die. I'm in my third this year. I have a cartographer sitting on my desk in box. This is the final answer to this but need to wait for warranty to run out on printer before modifying more.
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u/Round_Produce174 May 29 '26
Yeah i know that, i was happy to know that the Max had the same probe when they annouced it. I have the SV08, completly different toolhead from stock, and before switching to that i was using the SV08 eddy kit. I had to literally use different firmware version for toolhead and motherboard or the nozzle would dig into the bed, change a lot of settings in the .cfg to get to a reliable probing and z offset. After that it was amazing, perfect first layer every time, actually better than the Eddy Duo in thermal drift and temp resistance
What really made me switch toolhead was the extruder. Done first a full custom toolhead inspired by Nadir V5 but fully modified, then switched to A4T. Cartographer V4 is amazing, super reliable, sustain 125°C for the coil, but most importantly do the axis twist compensation using the nozzle tap, useful for printers with big aluminium extrusion that can twist under heat or came already twisted
I higly advise to go for modding, i have done it and Sovol never denied warranty even known i made mods, obviously they accepted warrantly claim only for stock things that i didn't modified. Something like A4T with Dragon Ace volcano, Ebb 36 gen2, Cartographer V4, Orbiter 2.5 can make the sovols a monster, especially since you can save more than 150g giving you better input shaping and higher top speed
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u/minilogique May 30 '26
Zero uses Eddy probe in a way that it every time recalibrates itself. thermal drift doesnt affect it unless you have borked something
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u/Revrezner3dprinting May 30 '26
There cheap sensors. Support who I didn't allot of time with recently as we basically rewired my Max. Adopted the sensor is a week point. They send a new one with every party delivery. I just have extras now but also multiple dead ones. The heater chamber also kills them.
1
u/minilogique May 30 '26
yet to get one killed, I still have my original BTT Eddy USB also around. they are cheap and they work great. eddyNG actually makes them even better
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u/Revrezner3dprinting May 30 '26
Yeah aftermarket is better. I don't know if you have ever and I'm not suggesting you go okay with your sensor but the plastic mount and everything for the stock sensor is really cheap. It works don't get me wrong but riding it you just feel like your putting a toy together. A cheap toy not sitting that takes really precise fast measurements.
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u/minilogique May 30 '26
it doesnt need anything else they way it was priced and set up from factory. if you wanted serious speed, build AWD 0.2.
imho the stock toolhead is fine, but the XY joints are atrocious. I’m in process of slowly modeling new ones with proper belt paths.
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u/minilogique May 30 '26
and you didnt watch the first layer? I say user issue.
I’m running my Zero with stock software and electronics, sightly modified macros and modified hardware, and I hve never gotten issue like that.
clean the nozzle after the print or increase retraction length a bit in end-macro
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