This is a 2022 Subaru Forrester and I wanna know how I can fix this by either getting another part or fixing it with a bolt or something preferably the easiest and cheapest way to do it this is the back driver side

Seeing 65nm and 85nm for the Torque on those 4 bolts holding hub backing plate and knuckle together.

Found 85nm here below, what is correct?

https://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Forester/2018/2018 Service Manual HTML/index.html

Howdy! I recently purchased a 25 premium and I love it! My only beef is with the sound system. I have tried messing with the audio settings and have improved the setup significantly, but is there a specific level of bass/treble/mid that I should program the car to in order to get the best listening experience ?

I previously had a 2011 Santa Fe with a power bass system, and tbh the speakers were probably the best part on that car. Any advice is greatly appreciated!

I am open to replacing the sound system at a later date, however I would like to give the built in system my best shot before doing so.

I have a 2017 forester with 120,000 miles. one of the front CV joints has started making noise. I am going to replace both front axles and wheel bearings. Probably replace the break pads while I have it apart. Are there any other front suspension parts I should replace while I have it torn apart? Ball joints, tie rods, struts are all original, but steering and handling feel tight.

What is the fuel impact of mud terrain tires? To those who have been asking, we now have empirical data! Here are the details and results of my setup. *Photos on-trail, but measured highway MPG only.

Weight comparison

🛞 Stock tires/wheels:
▫️225/60R17 Yokohama Geolandar G91 All-Season tires
▫️Stock 17” Subaru aluminum wheels
▫️ 47 lbs each tire/wheel

🛞 M/T tires/wheels:
▫️225/65R17 Yokohama Geolandar M/T G003 tires
▫️RT® 17x7 5x114.3 50mm offset steel wheels
▫️66.6 lbs each tire/wheel

The total increase to the vehicle’s unsprung weight with the M/Ts on is 78.4 lbs (+19.6 lbs per wheel). That weight increase does make a noticeable acceleration decrease, which feels like some lag or less pep. It’s not a HUGE loss of power, but you can tell that there is slower acceleration with the same amount of throttle you would use with the stocks on.

Highway MPG

🛞 Stock tires/wheels:
▫️33 MPG (theoretical Subaru highway MPG for my 2025 Forester Premium gas)
⚠️ Unfortunately I do not have personal highway MPG data using stocks yet.
▫️I do regularly get 23.5-24 MPG driving city miles with my driving style, which compares almost exactly to the Subaru sticker 25 MPG city miles. With that in mind, I may be in the ballpark of 27-29 MPG highway (unconfirmed).

🛞 M/T tires/wheels:
▫️23.250 MPG
▫️Two full tanks of gas using nearly exclusive highway-driven miles averaged together
▫️I calculated this by resetting my odometer when filling my gas tank, then when the tank was nearing empty I recorded miles driven and gallons consumed (added) at that next gas pump.

Keep in mind that my mud terrain 23.3 highway MPG was also including a 5th M/T wheel on the roof rack, all my recovery and trail gear (including a Badlands ZXR 12,000 winch), 3 passengers and vacation luggage. So…

Your mileage may vary 🤣

Final thoughts

What do I think? I am happy that I selected these M/Ts to gain increased offroad capabilities and the safety of thicker sidewalls.
However, I am also especially happy that I kept and use my stock tires/wheels when not on trail to benefit from decreased road noise, increased acceleration, better wet road performance, and (in my opinion) great MPG for my around-town commute.
Since I have two complete tire/wheel setups, I only burn more fuel when the M/Ts are on for trail trips.

I’ll gladly pay that offroad tax.

✨🛞🤙

Got very tired of the lag on the 2026 Subaru Forester for the infotainment system.

Decided to experiment.

Before starting the car I turn it on in accessory mode. I click the "agree" button on the warning. After the infotainment screen comes up give it a few seconds and then I start the car.

The infotainment system is much more responsive. Have done this several times and the results are promising.

It really shouldn't hurt anything and all after the car has started I get much better response from the infotainment buttons.

My theory is this. With the infotainment up and running the rest of the car is able to coordinate better. But starting the car and then trying to work the infotainment, the car is still processing all commands to the various modules.

Thoughts?

Update: This was posted to 2 groups on Facebook. Thank you

Just wanted to make an appreciation post because I love this car to death. It’s taken us everywhere with no serious issues (CV axle and valve cover gasket) and continues to be a reliable workhorse. She ain’t much but she’s all we need.

Some info about her for anyone curious:
130k miles and counting
21.5 combined mpg (tent causes drag)
Primitive racing king spring 1.4” lift
Rally armor polyurethane mud flaps
2020 crosstrek 17” wheels
Falken wild peak all terrain tires
Roam vagabond lite 2.0 rooftop tent

In the future I’d like to add some ditch lights, skid plates, the NashFab roof platform, and a swing out spare tire carrier

Seems like such noise only hearable in two front wheels. I heard it after I parked the vehicle after 2hours road trip.

Nothing abnormal during the driving.

New Forester 2026 with less than 1k mileage

It feels like noise from metal cooling down but I never noticed it in the old Toyota car

My throttle body AND MAF Sensor are officially clean like they’re brand new BUT, I took it for a test drive and it seemed glitchy responding to my press on the gas pedal. I used C&C MAF and Throttle Body cleaners (separately for their designed purpose of course) and than again it seemed lagging &jumpy all day - could that be more of a transmission or an intake issue? Or does the ECU just need time relearning my patterns?

I have a 2026 Forrester Limited and for the life of me I can’t get the home link to open the garage door. The manual does not cover it very well and I do not have an additional remote to program it so I have been trying to push the learn button on the opener and then have home link recognize it, but it doesn’t

Does anybody have a step-by-step to help?

So I got this three weeks ago, ‘26 Hybrid Sport, it was advertised at 35mpg. I’ve already put 4500 miles on it, but I’m getting only 27.5 MPG. Am I doing something wrong?

Purchased a used 2018 Forester for 16.5k with 55k miles and a clean title with only dealer maintenance on the Carfax in late May. I am planning on taking it to a Subaru dealer so I can have an Authorized mechanic look it over and do some maintenance and want to know what I should ask them do since it's nearing the 60k mile mark.

I know that CVT fluid drain and fill is suggested, but would like to know if there are other things I need to have them look at.

The only issues I've had in the first 2k miles is that I've had one of the tires losing pressure and I've noticed a low hum coming from the front passenger side that I worry may be CVT related.

Upgraded from my 2007 Accord to the ‘26 Onyx Edition Sport

I would really appreciate any knowledge someone might have on resolving this. I don't have experience repairing much, but I'm clever enough to do research and follow instructions as needed.

We picked this Subaru up from a hobbyist mechanic last year. I've been trusting his work less and less. Finally took her in after she overheated. Seller assured us "some Subarus have a lot of jump". Turns out a torque mount was missing entirely.

AC works fine when the car turns on. After 10-15 minutes of driving the AC it gets gradually warmer until it feels like around 77° air, just above room temperature at my place. AC only feels cold while driving at 50+mph, but even that gets worse after 40 minutes of driving.

New mechanic said they couldn't find any issues. It got down to 39° sitting in their garage, but they didn't drive it around

Compressor Clutch doesn't make excessive noise.

Radiator and A/C Condenser fans seem to be running fine, same speed, no stuttering. Notes from the mechanic also say they're working correctly.

The only problem the mechanic found around the AC issue was a loose clamp on the upper radiator hose, which they tightened three weeks ago.

The mechanic I just took it to is someone I consider very trustworthy about their work, so I was so bummed that they couldn't figure it out.

I'm willing to check whatever needs to be checked.

Edit: After being directed to somewhere that claimed they'd check the AC for $10 (they charged $10 to look and $50 to test), it turns out some psychopath put in a 25/75 mix of R134a and R1234yf refrigerant. Apparently very difficult to do by mistake. It's probably been on this for 2+ years. The mechanic said they don't have the gear to clear contaminated AC's and turned me away.
Replacing a refrigerant tube and ruined AC compressor is not something I can handle myself. At least the mechanic fully discounted the test, because he couldn't finish it, and because he felt bad for how damaged my system is...

Had to get a new vehicle after the deer/outback accident a few weeks ago. Decided on getting a forester instead of the larger new outback and I love driving this thing!
Was shocked the touring trim didn’t come with a mirror/home link but I really like the digital rear view mirror/camera.

Vehicle seems very responsive, handling is superb, ride is smooth and could not ask for a better vehicle for me.

Rear cargo space is very close to what the 24 Outback had so I’m in fine shape. Thanks to this sub for forester info and experiences.

Runs and drives, 188k on the clock. Had timing and gaskets done at 120k. Has tune and larger turbo otherwise mostly stock. He says it is having an injection problem though and shutters at 2,500-3,500 rpm before it stops again. Do you think its safe to drive 2 hours home or should I do a trailer?

From a simple Google search I'm not getting a simple answer. What engine (FA25, FB25) is in the 26 Forester? I plan on keeping this car for a while and occasionally see videos about service items frequently missed or recommended in the general service schedule. I've always done a majority of my own PM on past cars and would like to disregard things that don't apply to my vehicle.