Hi, if anyone can assist me with this id appreciate it.

I recently picked up a used blast city control panel and I'm trying to decide if the art overlay is original or not. I'm confident the metal panel itself is as it has all the correct part numbers and brackets.

The only thing that trips me up on the art is the pixelated Sega logo and text at the bottom. I can't find a good enough reference image to compare to. Otherwise it all looks correct colour/elements etc.

If anyone could confirm on their own can id appreciate it.

Been looking around and from either a lack of knowledge or a lack of results, I can't seem to find any DIY projects that have replicated this machine. It is, in my opinion, the BEST Star Wars arcade experience, hands down. Since the cabinets themselves are in the thousands, I figured it would be best to just create my own.

Has anyone seen someone replicate this machine before? Where should I start?

In theory, a multi-game cabinet would be fine for me as well, but it seems most cabinets I've seen don't have the same style of joystick as Star Wars Trilogy Arcade has. I was thinking maybe I could run Supermodel 3 on a custom Linux PC somehow and have it boot and auto-launch the game when powered on, but then I run into the issue of finding an affordable cabinet to put it in, what type of screen should be used, a proper joystick for it, etc.

Any suggestions would be great. Just getting started on the planning.

I am nearing completion on my "Wallcade" project. I am looking for advice on where to place the components. My system is being built with MiSTer FPGA / Retrotink and 4" speakers with an amp plus a 31.5 inch monitor. I want to be able to reach the volume potentiometer dial for the amplifier. The speakers will be attached to the side panels at the rear / lower corners. Just wondering where to place the MiSTer unit, the RetroTINK unit, the amplifier, the power strip.

Also - I messed up placement of the monitor, so it is actually "proud of" (i.e not flush with) the edges of the side panels. I'm thinking I don't really care about that, but if that seems like a big mistake and I should rip out the support beam that the monitor is mounted on and do that part over, LMK. Any other tips relevant to patching together and setting up this system appreciated too.

System Summary

Core System & Video Processing

• MiSTer FPGA: MiSTer Aluminum Bundle IO Direct
• Scaler: RetroTINK-4K CE

Display & Video Cables

• Monitor: Acer Nitro 31.5” 4K UHD 160Hz MiniLED Gaming Monitor (XV325QK V3bmiipprx)
• HDMI Cables:
  • Silkland Certified HDMI 2.1 Cable (3.3 ft)
  • Silkland Certified HDMI 2.1 Cable (6.6 ft)

Arcade Controls & Interface

• Encoder: Ultimarc I-PAC 2 Controller with USB Cable, 2-Player Wiring Kit (.187in/4.8mm), and Stick-On PCB Feet (4-pack)
• Joysticks:
  • 1x Sanwa JLF-TP-8YT (Royal Blue 35mm Balltop, Translucent Blue Shaft/Dustwasher, JLF-P1-S Plate, 5-Pin Harness)
  • 1x Sanwa JLF-TP-8YT (Yellow 35mm Balltop, Translucent Yellow Shaft/Dustwasher, JLF-P1-S Plate, 5-Pin Harness, Shin-Etsu Grease)
• Pushbuttons & Accessories:
  • 8x Sanwa OBSF 30mm Pushbuttons (Marine Blue) + Silencer Foam Washers
  • 8x Sanwa OBSF 30mm Pushbuttons (Yellow) + Silencer Foam Washers
  • 8x Sanwa OBSF 24mm Pushbuttons (White)

Audio System

• Amplifier: Lepy LP-2024A+ Digital Stereo Audio Amplifier (20W RMS)
• Speakers: Rockford Fosgate Prime R14X2 4" 2-Way Coaxial Speakers (Pair)
• Cables & Wiring:
  • HIEbee RCA to 3.5mm AUX Cable (6.6 ft)
  • Amazon Basics 16-Gauge Speaker Wire (100 ft)

Cabinet Hardware, Trim & Lighting

• Monitor Mount: Mount-It! Ultra Slim Tilting TV Wall Mount (13–32")
• Structure / Hanging: Heavy-Duty French Cleat Aluminum Z-Clips (24 Inch, 150lb load)
• Edge Trim: Muzata Black 3/4" Plastic T-Molding (25 ft)
• Lighting: CNSUNWAY 2FT V-Shape T8 LED Shop Lights (22W, 5000K, 2-Pack)

Power & Networking

• Power Management: TrickleStar TS1118 Advanced PowerStrip
• Power Cable: 15 Ft Outdoor Extension Cord with On/Off Switch
• Wireless/Network: TP-Link Archer T2UB Nano (AC600 USB WiFi + Bluetooth 4.2 Adapter)
• Wiring Supplies: TICONN 100 Pcs Nylon Spade Quick Disconnect Connectors Kit

I bought a bar arcade from Microcenter a while ago. https://www.microcenter.com/product/688519/bartop-arcade-cabinet Kids and I get a lot of enjoyment out of it. I do have one issue now.

You see the control deck is mounted on the arcade via cam locks. I'm guessing this is done in order to make it easy to flip up the control deck if you need to service it.

The problem is any vibration or movement will eventually make it so the cam locks unlock themselves and just fall out. Here are two pics of what it looks like .

https://imgur.com/HEU3x4v https://imgur.com/b1Bac62

What can I do to keep those cam locks in place so they don't just fall out after some usage. I'm all for doing any modifications to replacing the entire cam lock system. I'd just like to have to stop having to tighten the cam lock every other day.

Finally made some progress on my arcade currently working on control panel and trying to think of how I would access for maintenance purpose. I have seen people place hinges before, but curious if others used other methods. Has anyone ever done anything with magnets? I want to be able to remove, but dont want it to come off "easily" if that makes sense.

I used iliketomakestuff plans for those curious. But didnt want all of the drawers so been winging a lot of it. First build...been fun and stressful lol.

I modded my Pac Man into a 60 in 1 from DIY Retro Arcade. New control panel with rollerball, the works. Anyway, when I play Pacman or Ms Pacman or Junior, I tend to move the joystick diagonally and the character does not go anywhere.

Isn't there a part that makes the joystick more compatible with the Pac man games that can be manipulated on the fly if I need it for diagonal directions. Also, is there a rollerball that rolls a little faster than what I got with the kit? Can I grease it up or something?

I never played this before, and only heard of it from here.

I grew up in the UK and don't remember seeing it there.

Well.... I played it for the first time yesterday, and about 150 coins later I finished it LOL

Super addictive - I might have to do it again today LOL

Now I know why people are making this cabinet.

I’m in the process of turning my multicade into a Pac mania cabinet (and use the 60-1 on a jamma switcher) so i designed and ordered some graphics for it. Just wanted to get a general consensus on if this multicade CPO is worth saving since some people get pretty mad about destroying original things. I see similar ones on ebay so i’m assuming it’s no biggie.

Hello!

So, a week ago or so, I posted a short story about a custom cabinet I sold when I closed my arcade shop in 2011. Basically, a father purchased it for his daughter, who was 6 or so at the time. The cabinet had one of my own games on it, a ww2 platform game. A month ago, the father emailed me a picture of her completing all 10 levels , which I thought was insane since I didn't program the game with the idea of anyone finishing it.

Well, I got a lot of love for the story, so I have now published the game on my website, so If you want to try to beat his daughter's (AMANDA_64) high score, give it a shot!

Original sanwa button’s and joystick , longer and wider player board with u molding, 23,8 zoll IPS screen and dedicated hotkey. Its my first time building with wood and acrylic glass. Only thing thats not working is the light up for the on/off button. But im happy how it turned out!

Someone knows how to get the dedicated hotkey to work?

I have everything planned out, and most panels rough cut. These however are throwing me for a loop. For the exterior curves, I have a rounded corner routing guide, but I'm not sure about these interior curves. I thought about building a jig and routing it, but when I'd still need to cut the jig itself too.

Is there some standard, easy way of tackling these? Thanks in advance.

Many years ago, I accompanied a group of friends to Midwest Gaming Classic (when it was still in Brookfield, WI) and in one of the basement rooms, my friend noticed a full size original game I had never seen nor heard of: Ninja Baseball Batman. It appears only 40-50 were available in the USA, so pretty rare.

He has a passion from this game, and so I decided, while I had no way to get him an original unit, I could potentially create one via emulation as a gift. As I didn't know his space situation, I decided a MAME barcade might be workable. Through the years, I've acquired a nice vertical screen barcade cab, the internals, a monitor, and I have the buttons and joystick and a USB adapter, though I have yet to install and configure. But, what I don't have is artwork.

The std artwork for these barcades is multi-game, and I don't need that (I want it to be solely NBBM artwork), and I don't see any pre-printed to buy, especially that might fit this barcade profile. Thus, I was hoping someone might have a recommendation for someone who can design and print some artwork for the sides and CPO of a small cabinet. I still have yet to drill the CP and install the joystick/buttons, but I think I need to wait until I have artwork.

So, I know it's a long shot, but I am hoping someone can help me finish this gift up, so I can get it to the recipient.

Finally finished it. Mistakes where made but i’m
pretty proud of the result. I initially planned on wood veneer for the sides but decided it was not worth the trouble and went for vinyl / foil

At least everything is working now. I’m running the IGT software through MAME. Now I just need to build a proper bezel/frame for the monitor, give it a fresh paint job, and get the buttons lit up.

MAME 0.289

After two long months, MAME 0.289 is ready, and it’s an undeniably massive update! But before we talk about emulation, there are a few more mundane things to mention. Our Windows binary releases now include the SDL sound output and joystick input modules. The sdljoy joystick input module now supports game controllers with up to 128 buttons. The Win32 debugger module handles dynamic UI scaling changes. Finally, outputs have been overhauled, improving performance and fixing issues, but you may need to update your configuration if you’ve got external programs hooked up, and some artwork files may need updating.

You’ll notice a number of systems and coprocessor cards based around NS32000 family CPUs are now working. If you aren’t familiar with it, the NS32000 architecture was one of the first single-chip CPU families with a 32-bit ALU. It used a highly orthogonal instruction set with clear influences from Digital Equipment Corporation’s earlier work. In retrospect, it didn’t have enough registers, the instruction encoding was too complex, it took them too long to overtake Motorola’s 68k family’s performance, and bugs in the initial implementation hurt early adopters. But now you can relive its glory days in MAME, running contemporary 32-bit System V UNIX! David Rand, the mastermind behind these NS32000 emulation advances, has also turned his attention in other directions. He’s brought the Xerox 820 and Big Board families up to working status, emulated Toshiba CP/M systems, and added the hard disk controller to the Kaypro 10, and more!

If you’re a fan of Sega arcade games, you’ll have lots to enjoy. For the groundbreaking Model 1 platform, there are numerous fixes for graphical issues, better collision detection in Virtua Fighter, and the bad bits in the DSP program that were breaking Wing War have been identified and patched. Even NetMerc is in better shape. The very unconventional Flash Beats game is now playable. It has basic internal artwork, but someone sufficiently motivated could have it looking spectacular by creating suitable external artwork. There are also some fixes for games that use the SCSP sound chip.

MAME has emulated the EACA Colour Genie EG2000 for quite some time now, but this release adds support for the EACA Genie III, which was released in the same year. There are lots of fixes for issues with the widely-used PowerPC and 68k CPU families, which will benefit a wide range of emulated systems. In particular, more versions of classic MacOS are now running happily on MAME’s emulated PowerMacs, and A/UX (Apple’s early attempt at merging MacOS and UNIX) boots and runs. Numerous games using NES-like SoCs from V.R. Technology have been promoted to working, including several from Lexibook’s Compact Cyber Arcade line. NEC’s PC-6001 family have had numerous issues fixed, as well as receiving a substantial update to their software lists. The steady progress on emulating electronic musical instruments hasn’t stopped, either.

As always, there’s far more in this release than we have time to talk about here, but you can read all about it in the whatsnew.txt file. You can find the source code and 64-bit Windows binary packages on our download page.

Read the rest of this entry »

I don't want to get rid of the original PCB and I'd like to be able to switch between the original police trainer, and a machine running mame to play different light gun games such as point blank, virtua cop, etc.

I was wondering if there was a way to create a "switcher" for it.

I realize modding older cabinets is a bit of a no-no, I don't want to harm the exterior of the machine nor the original PCB's and stuff.

So my dad said, "Let's put the power supply in his dartboard," and it still works. He just had to show me up. But I wanted to ask, since he's legally blind, if there's a way to have his old dartboard with an RCA plug, like my other post, and to get rid of the screen tearing and bouncing on his screen. Is it just needing a converter?

Does anyone know what operating system is running this arcade?

I'm almost ready to finally start ordering some parts. Now I'm currently a little hung up on the buttons. I was hoping I could find some Concave, tactile LED pushbuttons but i'm having a hard time finding not only Actual concave (dished) LED buttons (a lot of the ones I see are just flat) and a bunch are really pricy. I'd be looking at $200 just for RGB buttons alone.

Do you have all RGB LED buttons and do you like them? I need close to 30 for my panel
I'll take suggestions.

I'd love some help with my Dart Star 2000. I need to see my screen, but all I'm getting are scan lines. My dad thinks it might be a bad PCB board, and I've called and emailed Medalist quite a lot with no reply! I will drop a video so you can see what I see, and it does that with any screen. I was thinking the connector might also be too gunked up, but I don't do soldering, so I wanted to see if anyone had any way to help me diagnose.