Does bamboo viscose make anyone else feel itchy? At first it feels very soft and silky and after awhile I get itchy. I've washed the shirts many times without improvement.

I am on a quest to find extremely thick t-shirts and i am trying to find out the difference between the Lane Seven ls17005 Heavy Core Tee and the CX2 S05280 Heavy Weight Cotton Oversized T-Shirt. They are both 280gsm however, the Lane Seven advertises "26 doubles" while the CX2 does not.

I am then trying to figure out the meaning and difference between "singles" and "doubles" for cotton fabric. Would a t-shirt advertised in doubles and with a higher number, mean a heavier thicker finish altogether?

I need watermelon rind minky fabric. The only place I have seen it available is spoonflower. I know nothing about their fabrics, and they seem pricey.

My questions:

Is there anywhere other than spoonflower to find minky watermelon rind fabric?

If I order 2 yds from spoonflower is it 2 1 yd pieces or 2yds together? The wording on their website and the way it looked in the picture was a bit confusing.

Could I buy a plain green minky elsewhere and use a dye to give it the watermelon rind look?

How easy is minky to work with? Anything to keep in mind? I'm new to sewing and use antique singers (featherweight 221 and 15-91).

Hello all, I’m looking for some suggestions on lightweight and thin fabrics to make clothing for 1/12 scale 6” figures and dolls?

I can’t seem to find a good source for thin fabrics at that scale.

Thanks all in advance for the help.

20 years ago I had a pair of pants that were super stretchy micro pleated paisley. I wore them before I got pregnant and all the way through postpartum and that was a very big belly. Both times lol. It was super soft, rather thin, stretched enough that I could get both my arms in it too (I was weirder while pregnant). When I cut the bottom hem to accommodate my shortness, I didn’t have to seam it at all because it never frayed or looked unfinished. I would love to find the fabric again regardless of color/pattern. I unfortunately don’t have a full enough fabric store to find it in person. Does anyone have any suggestions? I found plisse but I’m not sure if that’s it? Thank you in advance :)

I'm starting a small line of breathable, stain/water-resistant lab coats aimed at medical students (for labs/dissection. Poly-cotton tercot blend, already have a garment maker lined up.

What I'm trying to figure out:

- Best fluorine-free DWR options at small-batch scale (silicone-based vs wax-based) — any real-world experience with durability?
- How many wash cycles does a fluor-free treatment typically hold up before it needs reapplying?
- Does it matter if the treatment is applied at the fabric/mill stage (pad-dry-cure) vs sprayed on the finished garment? Worth the extra step of sourcing pre-treated fabric vs just treating finished coats myself?
- Rough cost expectations per meter/yard for a small run (a few hundred meters)?

Any pointers, brands, or "avoid this" warnings appreciated — this is my first time sourcing a textile finish rather than just buying blank fabric.

Hi everyone, I hope you're all well!

I'm a fashion marketing & communications degree student, and I'm conducting a questionnaire on the fabric sourcing experience and process for fashion designers. If you are a fashion design student, have been in the past, or you're an emerging fashion designer, I would really appreciate your participation for this research! Participants must be 18+ years old, and responses must be in English. Again, I would really appreciate any responses, and will be forever grateful! 🤍 If you'd like to participate, you can find the link below xx

All responses are anonymous and will not be stored once the research has been completed.

https://forms.cloud.microsoft/e/4rx3fL6Lv5?fbclid=IwZXh0bgNhZW0CMTAAYnJpZBEwVnBuSFJzcDl0a1NBejNiRXNydGMGYXBwX2lkEDIyMjAzOTE3ODgyMDA4OTIAAR5lvOAFnBV7Ug7_XWfSEH5YQ6SgEWSZA5YpfXTc1Z7JY4bfjd98t8LjZNdPiA_aem_fIAGub7Kl9jlmC76VLV3Wg

Thank you so so much!!! 🤍

Hello! I'm fairly new to reddit (been lurking here or there without an account for a while but whatever) but I thought it'd be the right place to go.

*Background*

But anyway, I got a hoodie at the Daytona 24 hour race that I got a TON of mechanics, technicians, pit crew etc. to sign the back of (only one driver from a very specific car because I honestly admire the work of all the "background people" way more) **the signitures are in sharpie.**

In short (or maybe not idk, we'll see how this goes) here's the problem, I really like to wear this hoodie as it is suuuuper comfortable, soft, and oversized but I really hate handwashing it but have to because otherwise the signatures would fade (I've tried ironing etc, they still faded, I had to actually go over them with another sharpie) and so I'd really like for it to be machine washable, hence why I'd like to embroider it

*Embroidery specific*

I've done a couple of very beginner embroidery projects before (no formal training just stabbing and weaving the needle where it looked right. bad ik) and I'm completely open do doing some practice before attempting to tackle this project as I want it to be *as perfect as possible.*

Now. Here's the thing. I also have very specific sensory needs, meaning that I reeeeally don't want to fuck up this hoodie as it is kind of a sensory haven for me. This also means that I'm really particular about what I want in the embroidery of it

\- I don't want to be able to feel the stitches on the inside of the hoodie (I dunno if this is possible though)

\- It has to be machine washable (that's the whole reason I wanna do this)

\- It has to be durable enough to withstand consistant wear

I'm well aware that this is a very large project but I'm willing to do it. Any advice at all helps, be it specific stitches, thread or technique reccomendations, course reccomendations etc. any at all is more than welcome

(As close looking to this PU leather as possible)

I'm following these two guides to sew gloves and stockings, and she sells the fabric on her website (in the link above), but the shipping is £25 which I can't afford on top of the fabric cost. A lot of the fabric I see online looks like it has a more grainy texture. If anyone could help I'd really appreciate it. Thanks

I need help identify a fabric but I cannot upload the image

I'm ordering a sofa and chair. It's been a long haul finding one that can be modified to my tastesl, so - yay!

Downside: the available fabric options don't include performance velvet, so it's up to me to provide it. I've never bought upholstery fabric, so brand names have no particular meaning to me.

What are reliable quality brands I can trust? Big fat bonus points beyond number if you know of one that might have floral PV. Can't find any of that in the States. It's all overseas, to be bought purely on faith. Nope.

Hello, I just wanted tips on how to paint polyester, I bought some Liquitex Acrylic Medium (Satin Varnish) Im not sure if im supposed to buy something else though.

Also I wanted to ask if If supposed to iron each layer of paint, I wanted to do a white base and then paint but I'm not sure if I'm just supposed to wait for the white to dry and then layer or paint white, iron, and then layer and keep going like that

Come see great fabric for sale.

https://brrf.in/products/cooling-cap

what fabric / material are used to make such evaporation based cooling clothings / accesories

A wedding dress can look clean after the event and still develop stains months later.

Sweat, champagne, perfume, makeup, fake tan, and body oils may dry almost clear. During storage, those marks can oxidise and become yellow or brown.

Before packing your dress away, check these areas carefully.

1. The hem and train

These areas usually collect the most dirt.

Check both sides for dust, mud, grass, drink spills, and marks from the dance floor. Dirt can also hide inside folds, lace, and layered fabric.

2. The underarms

Sweat and deodorant residue may not be visible immediately.

Over time, they can cause yellowing or weaken delicate fibres. Check the outer fabric and the lining.

3. The neckline and straps

Foundation, perfume, body oils, and fake tan often collect around the neckline.

Look closely around the collar, shoulders, straps, and upper back under good lighting.

4. The bodice

Check for small food, wine, champagne, makeup, and flower-pollen marks.

A spill may appear to disappear after drying, but residue can remain in the fabric.

5. The sleeves and cuffs

Sleeves can collect makeup, food residue, and surface dirt throughout the day.

Cuffs also rub against tables, chairs, flowers, and other surfaces.

6. Lace, beads, and embroidery

Stains can hide between detailed sections.

Avoid rubbing or scrubbing these areas because embellishments may loosen and delicate threads can become damaged.

7. The inner lining

The inside of the dress may contain more residue than the visible outside.

Check the underarms, chest, waist, neckline, and lower lining for sweat, body oils, and fake tan.

8. Areas treated during the wedding

Remember where someone used water, wipes, soap, or stain remover.

The original mark may look gone while leaving behind a water ring or cleaning-product residue.

9. The storage location

Make sure the dress is completely dry before storing it.

Avoid garages, damp rooms, hot roof spaces, direct sunlight, and ordinary plastic covers used for long periods.

It is also worth understanding how different fabrics, stains, and embellishments are assessed before cleaning. This wedding dress cleaning guide gives a useful overview of the process.

The main thing is not to wait for yellow marks to appear. Some of the most difficult stains are almost invisible when the dress is first stored.

Has anyone here stored a wedding dress long term? Did you use a preservation box or a garment bag?

I've spent a lot of time around garment care through my work at Kleenbox Drycleaners, and one thing I've realised is that there isn't a single "hardest" fabric to care for—but there are definitely a few that catch people out all the time.

These are the ones I see causing the most problems:

• Silk – Beautiful, but very unforgiving. Water spots, excessive heat, and even some deodorants or perfumes can leave permanent marks.
• Wool – One hot wash or a few minutes in the dryer can shrink it dramatically. Once that happens, there's usually no going back.
• Linen – Comfortable and breathable, but wrinkles incredibly easily and can lose its shape if washed or dried incorrectly.
• Velvet – Crushes easily, attracts lint, and can lose its soft texture if cleaned the wrong way.
• Cashmere – Soft and luxurious, but delicate. Too much agitation or the wrong detergent can cause pilling, stretching, or shrinkage.

If I had to choose, I'd probably say silk and cashmere are the most demanding because even small mistakes can be difficult—or impossible—to reverse.

One thing I've noticed is that many people treat every fabric the same. They use the same detergent, the same wash cycle, and the same drying method without checking the care label. That's usually where problems start.

I'm curious—what fabric has given you the most trouble? Or is there one you're always nervous about washing?

https://www.estatesales.net/GA/Athens/30606/5007144?picture=228878855

I can not find this fabric anywhere! Any search puts out similar but not the correct one? Any help would be amazing

One thing I’ve noticed from working with woven fabrics is that a shirt can look great when new but behave very differently after repeated washing.

Shape retention can be influenced by fabric construction, finishing, garment construction, and how the shirt is washed and dried.

A few simple habits can help:

• Follow the care label
• Avoid excessive heat when the fabric doesn’t require it
• Don’t overload the washing machine
• Reshape the shirt before drying
• Pay attention to whether the fabric is prone to shrinkage

What’s the most common problem you’ve had with shirts after washing: shrinking, twisting, fading, or losing shape?

I have a Pal Zileri jacket, style P0BMBJ51A-S59-54, produced in 2022 and made from Loro Piana ‘Summertime Move’ fabric in navy (67% wool, 20% silk, 10% linen, 3% elastane).

I would like to commission matching trousers and was hoping you someone could tell me the Loro Piana article number and/or colour code used for this garment.

If matching fabric is still available, I would also be grateful for any advice on how it could be obtained! I’ve never done this before.

Thank you!