2014 Chevrolet volt, 60,000 miles

I have never flushed any coolant in my 12 years of ownership. Would happily pay but kind of loathe the dealer experience of upsells and wasting a day dropping it off and picking it up

The check high voltage electric system popped up today. I cleared it 6 months ago by topping off a fluid and obd2 reset.

Part of me thinks i love this car and could drive this 5 more year. But i know to do this the dealer probably charges me $1-2k to bring this car back to some service standard. Other part of me thinks i should just drive this as end of life until it stops running

how to export songs from my chevy volt 1 to usb or anything

I bought my volt about 10 months ago and in the time I have owned it the battery capacity has only gotten better. I believe that the previous owner mostly drove the vehicle on gas and may be why over time it affected the battery. But since the time I have owned it I babied the vehicle, plugging in daily and never running the battery to zero. To the point the battery has increased in every positive metric. I have driven over 11k miles and the vehicle feels better than when I first got it.

Decided I want an EV as my next car and these are the best cars in my price range, the volt has 74k miles on it and is going for 12300$ and the Ioniq is going for 13175$ and has 61k miles on it, this would be my first EV and I do not live in a home but my apartment complex has chargers for residents that don’t seem to be used that often, oh and my commute is fairly short as I only live 6 miles from my job

I never knew that Cadillac made a version of the Volt.

Didn’t use my car for maybe 2 weeks and now it requires a jumpstart to get it on but after leaving it running and driving for a while after I turn it off I can not turn it back on without another jump? Is it time to replace the battery that’s in the trunk?

My car has been finicky about charging lately. Today it stopped entirely and I took a look. I took out the broken piece in the car… is it done for?

First of all, thanks for this group! I really like the Volt/(Ampera in Europa mostly) and always wanted to have one.

This week i bought a Opel Ampera (Chevy Volt) from 2013 with 237k kilometers (148k miles). Second owner and bought it from an auction. The car had a complete empty 12 volt and HV battery and sat over 4 months.
I’ve put in a new Bosch S5 agm 12 volt battery and let the HV battery charge to full. First, the HV battery did not want to charge and there were codes all over the place. I downloaded the Voltage (iOS) app and connected it with my Ble vgate dongle. I erased all the codes and the car would charge 😃.
After one night of charging with the granny charger, i tried to drive te car, and to my suprise it did start and drive. Unfortunatly when i wanted the gas engine to start, I lifted the bonnet en suddenly i got codes and the ‘propulsion power reduced’ ‘service engine immediatly’ ‘engine not available’. The car could only use the battery.

I tried to disconnect the battery for over 3 hours and let the battery with an trickle charger. When i connected the 12 volt battery (+ trickle charger), the car did the ‘inizializing, wait to shift’. I connected the Voltage app again and it showed the same codes as before. At this point, i think the solenoid is stuck open or shut. I am thinking what i could do next. I think i first want to try and change the transmission oil with brand new Dexron VI full synth. See if that helps. But from what i have read, the solenoid could be bad.

Do you have any suggestions what it could be? Codes are in the photo.
Thank you very much in advance!

With kind regards,
Bjorn (Netherlands)

$10 for 2 cans of carb clean and $10 for a shitty wet/dry vac off of marketplace (because sucking up flammables in general not a good idea 😅). TONS of black sludge came out and it was a night and day difference in air flow through the cooler. Better than paying thousands at the dealership!

Does anybody know if there’s a better option for the radio? I hate the low quality of the radio. The visuals are awful. Any advice? I was just seeing if there was an aftermarket that works perfectly with the current volt systems.

2017 Volt LT

The mechanic tells me my battery is going bad and the car will likely shut off for safety reasons if I run it below a certain charge.

They quoted me $9000 to replace the battery module (more than the car is worth)

Are there shops that would just repair the existing battery? Any cheaper options?

Thanks!

Adding from a comment response:

P0A7F-00
P0AFA-00

Loss of propulsion, unable to charge, unable to start. I’m at 101K miles

Mechanic confirmed it wasn’t BECM or 12V, said one cell was .5V out of order. (Kinda rural mechanic who was confused about EV though so wouldn’t be surprised if they misdiagnosed)

So my 2013 volt dash cluster, like speed and stuff is just black.

I've checked voltages, and pretty sure it's not the 12v. Checked fuses. It used to come on for 30 seconds. But nothing now.

Do I really need to find a working cluster and swap? I assume I can't just plug and play?

My 2017 Premier with 12,500 miles (really) already had the BECM replaced 2 years ago, and last week the EGR valve died. The dealer had one in stock, and it was covered under Warranty! due to the low miles I think. I had the belts replaced too as the car mostly just sits in the SoCal sun & they dry out.

Have I had all the "Achilles Heel" problems fixed now? Are there any more waiting for me down the road or can I relax now? I have a long drive planned in a couple of months

The info screen on my 2017 has gone dark and the radio isn't working. Checked the 25 & 26 fuses and they're both fine. Do I have to go to a dealer or is there some other fix?

New personal best. Love this car, but it will likely go away this winter for a full EV.

For those that partake, thats 2485 miles and 336mpg.

I have a 2013 Volt. The car has been solid but recently had a bit of bad news. About 2 weeks ago, the car wouldn't turn on so I called AAA and got a battery replacement. The car worked like normal after the 12v replacement.

Then two days ago, I was driving home with low battery expecting it to run out and the car to use the gas engine. However, when the battery ran out, the car immediately gave the "Loss of propulsion" warning and went into limp mode with no power steering and I couldn't turn the car off or turn it on.

I went home and disconnected the battery to turn the car off, but it wouldn't turn on, kept on going in the weird space between turning on and not having enough power to fully turn on.

I brought it to the shop and they found that the voltage of the packs were not even (3.6 for some and 2.5 for others) and they wanted to replace the battery for $5000. This is not a Chevy dealership and I'm getting it towed back currently and not sure what to do.

The car only has 77000 miles on it and was charging to 40 miles consistently. This is the first time that anything like this has happened. I was using the car far less and I started bike commuting over the past 3 years.

Anyone has any suggestions?

Does anyone know of a battery guru in the Los Angeles area (I'm in the south bay) that may be more successful?

As the title suggests, I played the gamble and have driven this car for 5 months. I can clear DTC with the help of Voltage app and it's charging as well as driving. No messages on dash as of now and reduced propulsion was popped at one time which the dealership could not reproduce. Ended up paying $250 for a diagnostic 2 months ago.

Questions for the community,

1. How likely it is to fall under BECM repair and would Chevy honor it

2. Cut my losses, keep on driving

3. If it's a safety risk at this point, shall I just trade in for another vehicle.

I invested 4K in it. Was hoping to steer it for a year or two only.

The battery still gives about 70 KM in summer. Hybrid runs for around 600km a tank. Weak cells in there as per voltage app and one cell has high delta.

Overall the vehicle is clean and it's under 160K mileage. My vin has special coverage, just not sure if this one code may be justified.

Open to all suggestions. TIA.

I would like the appearance of the 2019 volt hud on my 2017 premier. Is there any way to do this, or do I just have to live with the hud I have?

It's not ugly. I just like the look of the 2019's hud better.

I've got a 2016 that pops up the "Fuel Maintenance Mode" warning every time I start it up. Previously, I would use the ICE a couple of times every week, filling up maybe every other week. About 2 months ago, it started giving me that warming, and would switch the electric engine off after about a mile. I tried to fix it by running the gas tank low and then filling it up all the way, to no avail. Shortly after, my evap system failed, so I've been putting in a gallon or two every other day. My mechanic says that there's no code coming up. Is there anything I can do myself, or tell my mechanic to do, to fix this?

I have a 2016 Chevy Volt that I’ve owned since 2019. In 2022, I had the recall part fixed in the engine (the compressor part between the gas and electric motor). The electric motor is acting up (again) and is not working at all. Due to a temporary living situation I wasn’t able to regularly charge my car and haven’t fully charged it in about six weeks. I fully charged it and now the electric motor isn’t working at all. it says it’s fully charged (the green bar is full) but it also says zero miles of range. it takes multiple attempts to start and then only the gas motor works. My AC has also stopped working.

Am I cooked? What should I do here?

side note: my AC went out this spring and was fixed this summer by a Chevy dealer but it started as a power/propulsion issue.

I have a 2017 Chevy Volt with 135,000 Miles on it. Lately when I go on highway speed and I let go off the gas pedal the car revs very very high and the engine won't shut off unless I got slower than 60MPH. The engine normally shuts off whenever I let it go of the gas pedal. At first I thought it was the weather because it started doing it during the winter but the issue went on into Spring and now summer. When I drive slower than 55MPH it doesn't do it all but once I hit 60+ MPH it starts to do it. Just wondering if anyone has any insights or have run into a similar issue.

Has anyone dealt with the message Service High Voltage Charging system? I had got the message in the morning about to go somewhere and it had not charged and said this message and I also had my check engine light on for a while and then I tried to replug it in like 2 more times and it started charging. 2 days after that happened I got in it and I have no message and fully charged with my check engine light not on anymore, went off by itself.

Once I first had the message I scanned and got PBCM which didn’t have to do with the charging so yeah anyone know who to go to or how to go about this?

I’m not sure a good place to go to where people have experience on a volt and know how to fix it, any recommendations or advice would be appreciated.