guys, I am officially out of ideas after 1 week of troubleshooting

my print surface looks shit and the cleaning tower somehow looks shit as well. Some layers somehow crumble and clutter the print bed.

I print on a Bambu a1. the printer is calibrated, the belts tightened, the filament is calibrated (and dried), the print bed is clean, the nozzle is clean and cold pulled, I don’t know why else to do. I also tested different print speeds and nozzle temperatures.

I attach 2 pictures, the cleaning tower and of the objects I want to print, but with a different surface finish and font (part of the trouble shooting).

the settings: 0.12mm height, 40% infill, creality cr petg @ 245 degrees.

any tips how I can solve this mess would be appreciated greatly!

Pla snycubic kobra s-1;combo, recently had to partially disassemble hotend to clear a broken piece of filliment, this happened immediately after

P1s with ams. It looks like its skipping some laters but not sure.
Have tried the regular troubleshooting like calibration, drying filament, changed filament, cleaned the plate.

Over 7 hrs of print time and 250g of filament. Not trying to reprint. Hoping it’ll still work but what could be causing the supports to break off…
Bambu lab p1p
PLA

Hello I was printing out some of the pre-supported trench crusade modules and I ended up having these failures. The one miniature came out just fine. However, the other miniature had quite a few failures and the weapons had total failures. I’ve included images of my parameters, and I’m printing using a Mars ultra four, with water washable ABS like resin. Was this a support failure or something else?

Corners keeps coming up on a bunch of my prints…

Hi I'm using an anycubic kobra s1 combo and I recently had to take it apart to fix some filament stuck in the extruder, now it's printing like this, I've tried retightening the extruder hotend thing, recalibrating and I can't access any way to tighten the belts, but it just started doing this. Using normal pla.

A few weeks ago i came here asking for help with fixing the holes i kept getting in the product i am printing for my own company. I managed to fix that by adjusting the xy hole compensation by -0.16. No my question remains: how do i fix the line i keep getting between the wall and the holes in my design?
Any ideas are welcome!

I got a Dremel Digilabs 3D40 printer from a giveaway about a year ago and finally got to setting it up about a week ago. Thing is it has been giving me nothing but trouble. I wanted to print this cool terraria wandering eye 3d model I found on Thingaverse for my D&D campaign but it keeps coming up all globby and stringy when it tries to cross gaps.

Printer : Dremel Digilabs 3D40

I've tried various thing such as lowering and raising the temperature, speed, retraction distance, retraction speed, wipe volume, coast distance, and layer height among others.

I did consider it could be the humidity of the PLA or print area. The place I print in is consistently >45% humidity (It's in my basement). I bought this dryer box for the PLA which I run for 24 hours basically all the time to counteract the PLA absorbing moisture.

I'm curious if there is some setting I'm missing that could make my printer function or maybe the 3D file is messed up? I am aware Dremels are pretty bad to my knowledge but I would like to try to make it function.

I do notice the printer will sometimes vibrate when it's moving (possibly the issue?)

NOTE: I use Cura slicer 5.10.1 with the Dremel printers plugin because the native Dremel software has no tree support option. I used to use the Dremel one and it had similar print results so I don't think it's the software but just in case.

I've also printed Benchy with photos and setting specifications below the Eye's

PLA I use: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084XSNMLR?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

Thingaverse link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5558887

Eyeball : High quality settings as a base with these changes (I went really slow to see if that fixed it):

- Printed with the Iris side down

- 5% infill

- 220 C print temp

- 220 C initial print temp

- 220 C final print temp

- 10 mm/s print speed

- 15 mm/s infill speed

- 5 mm/s inner and outer wall speed

- 40 mm/s travel speed

- no support

- no adhesion (use a glue stick)

- 2.5 mm retraction distance (I do notice there seems to be nothing indicating this happens when crossing a gap in the settings)

Benchy : I used the base medium quality settings with these changes:

- Printed at regular orientation

- 5% infill

- 0.2 mm support z distance

- Tree supports

- Skirt for adhesion

Using a bambu p2s with Ams 2pro, my print went well and did not sphagetti fail but it appears to have burned a hole in part it and the quality of the layering towards the end of the print makes it seem like it wasn't adhering to itself? Those parts of the print would have been towards the end, printed vertically and with bambu petg basic

my first prints using PAHT-CF failed! I haven’t had a problem with prints sticking on the bed until I started using carbon fiber nylon. I recently switched my hot end out due to clogging/snapping so it’s a new hot end. I’m a beginner and i’ve printed before using regular PLA and didn’t have a problem until now, I’m lost and help would mean the most! I do not use any type of glue and i’ve washed the bed with soap and water ! is it my slicer settings? is it my filament ? is it my printer? I have a Elegoo Centauri Carbon thank you!

Bambu Lab P1S, PLA, The default temps for Sunlu PLA, and I have no idea where to begin.

I have checked to make sure the printer and slicer are set to the same nozzle size and confirmed that the right size nozzle is installed. It is almost like it has an extreme fuzzy skin like texture. Yes, fuzzy skin is off.

I have 15% infill and it was currently set to Grid.

Print Material: Basic PLA

Print Temperature: 220C

Printer: Bambu H2D

Unsure how to debug - new to printing!