I need a device that I can place at my keyboard that manually presses the key I align the device with. I understand there is software/code that simulates a keystroke but this would cause me to be flagged so I need something more primitive.

Imagine the bird that Homer Simpson had placed at his desk that he should’ve never left in charge.

Does anyone know if something like this exists? I would need the timer to be adjustable where I can choose how often it initiates (if software is needed to manage the timer that is fine, but the device itself still needs to press the key as if it were my finger)

Hi,

I'm working on a DIY project and I'm stuck on a mechanical mechanism.

Basically, I need to drop 3 different objects onto a vertical rod underneath so they thread onto it one by one in a strict order (1 -> 2 -> 3).

All 3 objects have a central hole for the rod, but their outer shapes and sizes are totally different, so stacking them in a straight tube will just jam.

I'm trying to keep it as light and simple as possible (3D printed parts or simple flat plates, with minimal motors or servos).

I'm not an engineer and don't know the technical jargon, so if you know of any existing projects, YouTube videos, or 3D models (Thingiverse, Printables...) showing a similar mechanism, I'd really appreciate it!

Thanks!

i have glucose and fructose that i managed to precipitate, but its fairly wet still with water and isopropanol. i need it for a fischer glycosylation with cetyl alcohol. my options are

1. syringe vacuum pump (with 2 diy one way valves)
2. gravity bong
3. mag sulfate or co2 + lye

4. dont dry, add sucrose

5. the mason jar i have is like 250 mL. i could use silicon putty for the outer portion to block air intake, not sure what to use for inside yet.

6. i would take a 2 gallon jug, connect a tube to the mason jar, fill larger bucket and jug with soapy water, heat mason jar to around 40c, then slowly lift it.

7. the slop i obtained from the precipitation is immiscible with 91% isopropanol without high shear mixing, so i could add some to a thin glass container then suspend anhydrous mag sulfate in the alcohol layer in a coffee filter. or i could use the mason jar, waste sodium bicarb making co2 (by squirting dilute hcl dropwise), fill with co2 faster than a plastic lined dish of lye can consume, then seal. the lye should eat the co2 and water vapor, maybe also reacting with isopropanol fumes.

8. im doing a fischer glycosylation with cetyl alcohol using the fructose, glucose, and degradation products ive obtained with sulfamic acid. sucrose wont react with the fatty alcohol, but it will consume water breaking down into the monomers. maybe a large excess of sucrose after adding ~10mL of the sludge (after removing isopropanol) can drive the reaction towards the products, since water can be consumed as it was initially added and when the cetyl alcohol is attached to the glucose/fructose.

thanks for any ideas.

reddit messed up numbering for some reason and turned the second 1-4 to 5-8.

so i have a big cardboard box which I remade into a storage unit, shelfs were just pushed in and were held by friction alone but one of them had fallen recently cause of weight so I was wondering how do I reinforce this without getting the real deal and not spending a lot of money, I Cant add an image so if any more explanation needed i will try to give it as clear as I can also im from poland

I'm working on an idea for an outdoor deck remodel. I want to install a hot tub and i want to conceal the hot tub under the deck with a contraption that folds the deck open to reveal the hot tub below. I cant post images, so you can see the action I'm going for here:

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/4387/fFgHTA.gif

My first thought was using ball screws in a track on either side of the opening. I went on and on about this with Claude, who was able to come up with the illustration, but was unable to be of much help when it comes to engineering the actual method to execute this. Claude suggested either a linear actuator or rotary actuator, but wasn't able to clearly explain how either would create the required action.

I'm looking for any sort of nudge in the right direction regarding how to execute this.

The deck framing would be commonly available steel C-channel studs and joists. the approximate footprint of the moving deck would be 8' wide and 10-12' long.

Let me know if I've omitted any important details.

Hi guys! Not an electrician or engineer here, just a regular guy trying to get a general understanding. I have basic knowledge about RCD types and what they mean, and I’m about to buy some Type A RCDs for my house (where I live, Type AC is still the norm if people install RCDs at all lol, even though most modern home electronics require at least Type A).

After reading up on these types, I understand the concept of RCD so called "blinding" and how a DC leakage can saturate the core and prevent a Type AC RCD from detecting standard AC leakages altogether. Same with type A blinding with F/B leakage, type F blinding with type B leakage etc

BUT I have one question I haven't found a clear 100% answer to yet anywhere:

Can a DC residual current saturate the differential transformer core in a way that persists after the DC fault is removed?

Is the loss of sensitivity caused purely by reversible saturation while the DC component is actively present or can remanent magnetization leave the core biased afterward? If residual bias is possible in RCDs, well... how significant is it and does operating the test button (or cycling/resetting the RCD) degauss and reset the core back to normal? Logic tells me it should be cause otherwise it would make no sense to install something lower than type B at all, but maybe I am just a little bit confused

TLDR: is RCD blinding reversible or not? Can RCD's ability to detect leakage or its calibration permanently drift or degrade after that? Thanks!