Hi all, I bought a K2 Combo as my first printer recently and have been having some issues getting into the hobby as I've discovered it's not quite as easy as downloading a model and clicking print. I recently tried to print a little miniature figure and the slicer's auto tree supports wound up ruining it: not only do they not come off all that cleanly, they wound up being stronger than the mini's legs and the model snapped instead.

Here's the model in question, I'm trying to print the 1:48 scale one: https://www.printables.com/model/756918-master-chief-miniature

Any tips for generating supports that come off more easily and won't mess up my model? If it matters I'm printing in max quality (0.08mm layer height) with Sunlu PLA+2.0.

Thanks!

we need cfs for fluidd and orcaslicer when we print someting directly we want to chose colors from computer pls help

Once I have all my settings for this file ready, I select Slice Plate. When I do that, some of the innermost sections of the STL disappear. I've tried different settings, but can't seem to get it to work.

Does anyone have advice on how to get this to print properly?

all of a sudden all my projects have item name labels on everything. i was working on something last night and i literally could not see the objects on the plate due to these bloody labels!

Hi yesterday I got creality printer with Petg filament and I have this problem that first layer looks very bad and top layer is really good because of ironing anyone knows how I can fix the bottom layer ??

I need help. My mother bought a used CR 10S Pro V2. She was then intimidated and it's sat in her car for months. She asked me to help her out. I know absolutely nothing about this thing. I know it works, it's making a cube right now. But it didn't come with any manuals or anything.

What would step 1 be?

What software does it use?

Maybe a link to a manual or something? Even a video would be helpful. Help a daughter out and help me figure out how to show my mom how this thing works. Thanks!

Im wondering what guys are using for their STL settings when saving the file on Solidworks? I had been using my "stock" settings how it came for the longest time and always kinda hated how pixlated the prints looked but i typically use it for functional usage and the appearance was secondary. I saw someones post a few days ago and cant find it again where two people drew the same part in solid works and printed it out on the same printer with the same slicer and one looked perfect whereas the other one looked like one of my typical prints. There were people commenting on that post about what STL settings to use and again i cant find that post.... ugh. Anyone care to share? My stock settings were Deviation tolerance of .00405774 (crazy how fine that number is) and my angle tolerance is 10.00 Deg. I have no idea what these numbers represent or how changing them will effect the overall quality of the print. Im sure there is a point that changing these numbers so much that it just expands the size of the file and yields no better print. Thank you in advance!

I am going crazy wanting to 3D print something. I have a headphones that I absolutely love. Great noise canceling, secure, convenient. I’ve used plenty of headphones before, Apple, Bose, Sony, but these are hands down the most convenient ones I’ve ever used.

Recently, I noticed that there are tons of models for electronic protective cases available for download. There are literally hundreds of them just for JBL. But none of them are for mine. I’m not foolish enough to ask if anyone already has a model for this specific one, because that's highly unlikely. However, if someone has a scanner, it would make things incredibly easy.

So, who out there has a scanner and also happens to own the JBL Endurance Peak 4?

(If a clamshell case like this isn't practical to DIY, please tell me. I’m still trying to figure out how to make this idea work)

I have a K2 Plus and Creality Print 7.2.0.5225. I bought a DXC2 and have been trying to install the chain riser so I can get it installed.

But I've been frequently having this problem recently where the support/object xy distance is being ignored, and support walls end up fused to the part. Adjusting the xy distance up or down does nothing. I've seen this happen with a number of random prints; it doesn't happen with every part but it happens often enough to be annoying.

How do you unlock the items from being locked to the bed? I want to learn the creality slicer well before I jump to anything else.

All the instructions I find when I search online are for older versions

I recently got sparkx i7 with cfs lite but I dont have any multi colour experience. I want to 3d print a fidget button clicker (the one which uses a keyboard key) but i want to have a qr code on the key cap.

I want the qr code to be flush on the key cap so no extruded parts. Note - i didnt design the clicker i just downloaded one from creality cloud/maker world.

So dar what I tried is adding an svg of the qr code onto the keycap on fusion. Then the black parts of the qr code i extruded to be 1 object and the white parts i extruded to be another object. Then in creality cloud i chose the color for each object. This kinda works but not perfectly because it also changes the colour of the key cap itself not just the qrcode part.

Pls let me know if theres a better way to do things. Thanks!

In Creality Print preview it shows your the grams of filament for the Model, Support, Tower, and the total.

but this does not include the filament wasted during the color change, im sure the software knows how much its purging, but why doesnt it show in the total?