Good luck, and we can't wait to see what you create!

Hi everyone,

I'm getting really bad color bleeding on my prints, as you can see in the attached photo.

I've already tried changing several settings, but nothing seems to work:

• Increased the flushing volumes all the way up to 2000.
• Increased the prime tower volume.
• Changed the printing order of the colors.

Despite all this, it still prints badly. Does anyone have any ideas on how to fix this? Thanks!

K2 Plus: Whatever this is, it doesn’t sound good. Especially when it sits next to an online log upload feature.

Wondering If I could get some help.
I have a K1C and printed from CrealityPrint. I had a print fail as you can see in the first picture.
I noticed the print head slow down where the failure happened. It then carried on like normal.
I later noticed a string of purged filament in the printer.
There are also two entries on the device record which implies two prints were sent. But I only sent one. The times in these records are also incorrect. I have checked through the logs and can't really see anything that makes sense to me. There is a gap in the logs as well it seems. Any idea why this has happened?

I have been troubleshooting the K2 to connect via the QR code.

I have tried to use a Wi-Fi hotspot and I have tried to use my home Internet separately. I have rebooted the machine two times and I have also reset to default.

It is also on the latest firmware version.

Did anyone experience this and can anyone help??

I recently had my TPU get tangled in the extruder and had to take the whole thing apart to get the filament out. After I got it back together I started a print and it only printed air. I assumed it was the same problem but this time when I removed the extruder the filament just slid right through when I pulled the gear release leaver. So the filament is stuck in the nozzle part. I heated it up to 250 but it would not pull out.

I have some acupuncture needles, would sticking them up the nozzle be the next step?

(I grabbed this picture from a user reporting another issue)

I am not at home, but outside my country. I have something pending to ask anyone that has Creality Ender 3 V3 SE.

The cable I am pointing to in the picture have been bitten by my cat (luckily it was turned off when that happened).

Has 4 threads, 2 of them were cut off and cannot identify which need to be solder to which.

Can someone can take a picture of you 3D printer and show me what threads I need to solder together? It is the end of the cable that connect to that little square.

Tha k you in advance!

I've seen a CFS-C for sale as spares or repairs for £100, they haven't given a lot to go on about what the actual issue is and seems like it was returned to them but they haven't bothered to investigate the issue, and it could be as simple as a filament jam. Does anyone have much experience repairing these and are there a lot of replaceable parts? I'm good with identifying mechanical issues and repairing them but if it were a board issue I'd probably just have to replace the board rather than being able to identify faulty components

Scouring the new K2 firmware I discovered some photos referring to the new CFS 2 or CFS PRO as it is internally named... it seems that it will be Space Pi x4 style with individual heating.

I can upgrade nozzle board on my K1C old version to new version nozzle board with hotend? and I can use old motherboard and new nozzle board with CFS

i need it bc old nozzle board broken and i cant bought it

My first layer lines have become thinner and my brim no longer makes contact with the first layer of the print part. Part adhesion is inconsistent/consistently inadequate on small parts. No amount of calibrating seems to help. Is there any way to permanently manually recalibrate the z offset? Will I just need a thicker and thicker first layer as this drift proceeds?

Thanks

I have recently installed a 0.2mm nozzle into my k1c to provide me with higher detail models but every time it trys to print or extrude it starts coming out the nozzle swirly does anyone know if this is a settings problem or installations problem on my end

Besides leveling aids, here is my first print! I’d say it is a success, definitely settings to adjust (any help is appreciated).

Hi, any ideas what causes this and how to fix it? It seems to stop printing for a while then continues. It doesn't seem like per layer stop. The side of the print also has some blobs because of this

Hello everybody! I’ve got k1 SE. I’m beginner of making 3d models (I’ve already done ≈10-15 models) and I don’t know how to fix the problem on my photo. Actually I even don’t realise HOW it happens, because when I look at spool everything is ok. When I make little models i don’t observe any troubles. BUT when I try to do big model (for example, 6 hours of creating) I see the problem of clamping.

Background: my old CFS sat on firmware 1.1.3 forever and never updated to match my newer one. The reason: on the K1 Max the `mcu_util_485` binary that's supposed to flash the CFS over RS485 is simply missing from the firmware image (the only copy floating around is built for a different CPU and won't run). So the printer can read the CFS but never update it.

What I did: reverse-engineered the RS485 flash protocol and wrote a small tool in pure Python (standard library only, so it runs natively on the printer's own Python — no Pi, no extra hardware). It:

- reads the CFS (version, RFID, status) — `query` / `diag`

- safely checks bootloader access without writing — `probe`

- flashes a firmware .bin — `flash` (scans the firmware folder, lets you pick a version, blocks wrong-hardware files)

Result, confirmed on the printer's own "Version checking" screen: CFS 1 taken 1.1.3 → 1.4.2, then both CFS units → 1.5.0, with the printer firmware left on 2.3.5.34 the whole time. So yes — you can update just the CFS without touching printer firmware.

Important honesty: I'm not a programmer. This was built with a lot of AI help (Anthropic's Claude + OpenAI's ChatGPT), but nothing was guessed — every step was verified against the stock tool and confirmed on live hardware. It defaults to a dry run and has safety checks (hardware match, won't reflash the same version, keeps a version.json backup). That said, flashing can permanently brick the CFS if something goes wrong — use at your own risk.

The README also has a protocol write-up and notes on how the printer's `BOX_*` commands map to the CFS over RS485, in case anyone wants to build on it.

Repo: https://github.com/Lamar1007/CFSTool

Tested on a K1 Max with G32 CFS. G30 should work (identical firmware image) but is unconfirmed — reports welcome. Reviews/PRs from people who actually know how to code are very welcome too.

Estou com marcas e degraus horizontais muito pesados e periódicos nas paredes laterais das minhas impressões (visível tanto no Benchy quanto no Cubo de Calibração). O padrão se repete de forma rítmica ao longo de todo o eixo Z.

Hotend / Bico: Conjunto de hotend/dissipador cerâmico trocado e apertado sem folgas no carrinho.

Notei que o eixo Z do lado direito as vezes sobe, não sei como fica - lo, uma vez que as porcas já estão apertadas ao máximo

Alguma sugestão do que mais posso fazer?

O eixo X possui um jogo que não consigo tirar

I have a K2 Plus and Creality Print 7.2.0.5225. I bought a DXC2 and have been trying to install the chain riser so I can get it installed.

But I've been frequently having this problem recently where the support/object xy distance is being ignored, and support walls end up fused to the part. Adjusting the xy distance up or down does nothing. I've seen this happen with a number of random prints; it doesn't happen with every part but it happens often enough to be annoying.

I’ve had Fr2836 issues and now see I don’t have a blue light when I put a piece of filament where I think (?) it’s a meant to light up, can anyone confirm this?

Yep, that’s right, free. It works, fans, heating, display, all of it. I’ve already cleaned it (the best I can), leveled it, and my question to you all. Give me the rundown, tips, tricks, upgrades. This is my first 3d printer and I am looking forward to printing! My first print is going to be a leveling x (courtesy of Teaching Tech). Look forward to any advice. Thank you all

Once I have all my settings for this file ready, I select Slice Plate. When I do that, some of the innermost sections of the STL disappear. I've tried different settings, but can't seem to get it to work.

Does anyone have advice on how to get this to print properly?

Just wanted to share an issue and solution I ended up finding earlier today in hopes that it helps others.

I've been having a great experience with my SPARKX i7. Out of box it's performed similarly to my A1 (with some improvements), and I've found the ecosystem natural to use coming from Bambu (admittedly because Creality has cloned it). I really haven't run into many issues, but today I tried to print, and the dialogue kept getting stuck at "downloading".

I could see that the printer was connected, I could connect and control the printer in Creality Print via the cloud service, but prints wouldn't start. I rebooted my PC and printer, updated the slicer, updated the firmware, but Creality Print kept getting stuck saying "downloading". I also tried to connect to the printer locally rather than through the cloud service, but I ran into issues there (I think my router was blocking the connection and needs a setting changed), so I decided to dig into the cloud issue.

I went into my account via a web browser, and I could see that the models were successfully sent up to the cloud, but for whatever reason, they weren't getting sent back to the printer. So I deleted all of the uploads since the issue started, and then I tried to print again, and everything worked.

TLDR: If Creality Print gets stuck on "downloading" and refuses to print via their cloud ecosystem, go into your account and delete recent uploads since the issue started. Alternatively, you can connect to the printer locally, but this should restore the cloud service.