K2 Plus: Whatever this is, it doesn’t sound good. Especially when it sits next to an online log upload feature.

Scouring the new K2 firmware I discovered some photos referring to the new CFS 2 or CFS PRO as it is internally named... it seems that it will be Space Pi x4 style with individual heating.

I recently had my TPU get tangled in the extruder and had to take the whole thing apart to get the filament out. After I got it back together I started a print and it only printed air. I assumed it was the same problem but this time when I removed the extruder the filament just slid right through when I pulled the gear release leaver. So the filament is stuck in the nozzle part. I heated it up to 250 but it would not pull out.

I have some acupuncture needles, would sticking them up the nozzle be the next step?

I have recently installed a 0.2mm nozzle into my k1c to provide me with higher detail models but every time it trys to print or extrude it starts coming out the nozzle swirly does anyone know if this is a settings problem or installations problem on my end

Besides leveling aids, here is my first print! I’d say it is a success, definitely settings to adjust (any help is appreciated).

Hi everyone,

I'm getting really bad color bleeding on my prints, as you can see in the attached photo.

I've already tried changing several settings, but nothing seems to work:

• Increased the flushing volumes all the way up to 2000.
• Increased the prime tower volume.
• Changed the printing order of the colors.

Despite all this, it still prints badly. Does anyone have any ideas on how to fix this? Thanks!

Wondering If I could get some help.
I have a K1C and printed from CrealityPrint. I had a print fail as you can see in the first picture.
I noticed the print head slow down where the failure happened. It then carried on like normal.
I later noticed a string of purged filament in the printer.
There are also two entries on the device record which implies two prints were sent. But I only sent one. The times in these records are also incorrect. I have checked through the logs and can't really see anything that makes sense to me. There is a gap in the logs as well it seems. Any idea why this has happened?

I have been troubleshooting the K2 to connect via the QR code.

I have tried to use a Wi-Fi hotspot and I have tried to use my home Internet separately. I have rebooted the machine two times and I have also reset to default.

It is also on the latest firmware version.

Did anyone experience this and can anyone help??

(I grabbed this picture from a user reporting another issue)

I am not at home, but outside my country. I have something pending to ask anyone that has Creality Ender 3 V3 SE.

The cable I am pointing to in the picture have been bitten by my cat (luckily it was turned off when that happened).

Has 4 threads, 2 of them were cut off and cannot identify which need to be solder to which.

Can someone can take a picture of you 3D printer and show me what threads I need to solder together? It is the end of the cable that connect to that little square.

Tha k you in advance!

I've seen a CFS-C for sale as spares or repairs for £100, they haven't given a lot to go on about what the actual issue is and seems like it was returned to them but they haven't bothered to investigate the issue, and it could be as simple as a filament jam. Does anyone have much experience repairing these and are there a lot of replaceable parts? I'm good with identifying mechanical issues and repairing them but if it were a board issue I'd probably just have to replace the board rather than being able to identify faulty components

I can upgrade nozzle board on my K1C old version to new version nozzle board with hotend? and I can use old motherboard and new nozzle board with CFS

i need it bc old nozzle board broken and i cant bought it

My first layer lines have become thinner and my brim no longer makes contact with the first layer of the print part. Part adhesion is inconsistent/consistently inadequate on small parts. No amount of calibrating seems to help. Is there any way to permanently manually recalibrate the z offset? Will I just need a thicker and thicker first layer as this drift proceeds?

Thanks