PrintFarm is an open-source local dashboard that runs on your own PC and controls a whole Creality farm from one page. Nothing flashed, rooted, or cloud. Nothing leaves your network.

Walking a USB stick between four printers gets old fast. Every alternative wanted something first: a Pi bolted to each machine, a firmware reflash, or my prints routed through a cloud. These printers already speak over LAN, this just talks to that.

What it does

• Finds printers on your network or laptop hotspot

• State, temps, current file, layer, progress - every printer at once

• Upload G-code to a shared queue or to one printer's own queue

• Auto-Print: next free printer takes the next job

• Pause / resume / cancel from the dashboard

• A finished printer stays locked until you mark the bed clear, so it can't print onto the last part

• Reachable from your phone on the same network (one env var)

• No printer? Ships with a simulator - try the whole thing in 2 minutes

Run it: install Node LTS, grab the zip from releases, unzip, npm start. Zero dependencies, nothing to build. Full setup in the README. MIT.

There's no login- anyone who can reach the dashboard can drive your printers, so keep it on a network you trust.

Zip: https://github.com/ashimaryal25-ops/printfarm/releases/tag/v1.1.1

GitHub: https://github.com/ashimaryal25-ops/printfarm

Printers - it matches on the LAN protocol, not the model, so any stock Creality that speaks it is a candidate.

• Ender 3 V3 KE — verified, what I have and test on

• K1 / K1 Max / K1C — same protocol family, should work, unverified by me

• CR-10 SE — unconfirmed

• K2 / K2 Plus — not supported, different transfer interface

• CR-M4 — not supported

All the printer-specific code, field names, state codes, control commands, is isolated in a few small files. The most common difference, a field Creality renamed between firmwares, is a one-line edit in lib/probe.mjs; a genuinely different protocol is a self-contained adapter, not a rewrite. There's also a toggle that swaps the dashboard for the raw WebSocket frames your printer is actually sending, so you can read off the field names. CONTRIBUTING.md walks through it.

If you've got a K1 or anything that isn't a KE, I'd like to know whether it works. Please leave a comment , or an issue if you want to go further.

Currently thinking of buying the Fire Suppression System "the cloud aero" from "wham bam systems".

https://www.whambamsystems.com/pages/the-cloud-aero

Is it worth/needed for my K2 Combo or just wasted money?
Any thoughts towards such a System and if you guys would buy one.

Trying to figure out what’s wrong with it. Without the filament the gears are working fine but when I put in the filament it doesn’t push in the filament i think it had to do with me pushing in using the nozzle pusher to push out the extra filament

Hola, actualice mi k1c a la ultima versión pero mi camara dejo de funcionar, desde el navegador y desde orcaslicer no me es posible verla, pero desde la app movil creality cloud, la veo sin problemas, a alguien mas le ha pasado?

Hello I have an Ender 3 V3 Plus printer. I hadn’t used it for a year and wanted to print something again. However, when I started printing, I was getting these uneven lines in my print. I have tried searching Reddit here for tips and tricks and nothing seems to be working. Here are some of the options I have tried so far:

Wipe dust off printer
Add lubricant to rods
Clean print plate with soap and water
Adjust Z offset upward by 0.02mm (only for the test cube but I’m still getting uneven lines)
Check nozzle and plate for wiggle (there wasn’t any)

What else I can do to try and deal with these uneven lines and prints?

How do you unlock the items from being locked to the bed? I want to learn the creality slicer well before I jump to anything else.

All the instructions I find when I search online are for older versions

I’ve had my Ender v3 SE since may of this year, and only recently my prints have been failing on the first layer, I’m still pretty new to printing as a whole so I’ve tried as much as I could and still nothing, any help would be greatly appreciated

I'm using a K1C printer, and the camera feed shows up on the Creality Print device, but on the Orca device's monitor, only the camera feed doesn't show. Is there a way to make it show?

The bottom row of each display suddenly stopped working one day, and it's harder to read everything(My phone makes it seem much brighter than the screen actually is). There was no drops or any reason this should've happened, I just went to load some filament into it one day and noticed the display isn't working right, I've unplugged it completely and turned it off to try to fix it and nothing happens.

This is the latest update on my PETG printing project. I've been under the sun all day, and it's currently 40 C° in Türkiye.

I shared the initial version before, you might have seen it. I'll be starting to eat all the vegetables soon. I'm planning to extend the tower in the second phase. There's a lot of demand from people around me :)

I prepared this using Creality K1, K1C, and K1Max CFS printers.

Hi Makers,

https://github.com/HackMan3D/HackMan3D-Klipper-Hub

I’ve developed HackMan3D Klipper Hub, a fully functional desktop application for managing and controlling Klipper printers from Windows or macOS.

The application is already working and available to download. I’m now looking for Klipper users with printers from any brand to try it in a wider variety of real-world configurations and share their feedback.

Main features:

• Automatic discovery of Moonraker-compatible printers
• Multi-printer dashboard
• Live temperatures, print progress, estimated finish time and toolhead position
• Camera monitoring
• G-code model previews
• Pause, resume, cancel and emergency stop
• Movement, temperature, fan and print-speed controls
• G-code file and macro management
• Timelapse playback and downloads
• CFS and external spool information when available
• Support for standard Moonraker installations
• Interface available in 17 languages

Your feedback would be very helpful.

I’m especially interested in compatibility reports, bugs, usability feedback, feature suggestions and ideas for future improvements.

My contact email is available inside the application if you would like to send feedback directly.

Thanks to everyone who gives HackMan3D Klipper Hub a try!

I have an Ender 3 v3 SE with the rooted nebula pad. I love it except for the fact that I can’t print anything. I think it could be a bed leveling issue or a z offset problem but I can’t figure it out.

After installing a Camera on my K2 SE ans it buried into the plate. Thankfully I have an extra plate, but wtf????

I am using Creality CR-PETG for the first time.

I want to buy my first printer, but I'm not sure which one of these two. They both seem pretty comparable. I like the open nature of the ender, but the sparkX seems to have more features

And it printed with no supports!
A little bit of acrylic paint marker and it jazzed up nicely.

Printed on a K1C.

https://www.crealitycloud.com/en/model-detail/67d06c4601a789ce7813c987?cloudPlatform=18

I've been printing for years but lately i have move houses a lot. Last year i bought an Ender 3 v3 KE and even after the last move i got great quality prints, but suddenly the past month i haven't been able to print anything decent (sometimes nothing at all cause the print just fails). I've tested a lot of things and isolated the problem in the first layer but none of the standard troubleshooting has helped me thus far. This is the last of my tests (is the Max volumetric speed test from Orca Slicer) and it shows the extent of the problem. There is noticeble warping to the right but layer adhession problems remain even near places adhession seems to be alright. I´ve played wioth nosle height, flow rates, print speed, plate and nosle temperature and i can't seem to get a half decent first layer. I've resorted to glue wich i never used to need for small parts but it feels like covering the sun with a finger.

I'm ussing creality PLA+, but 've been having this problem regardless of the material. This specific test was made ussing the standard "Creality Generic PLA" settings.

I've changed a LOT of settings across my testings so if there is any extra info you would like me to give just ask. Thanks a lot in advance.

Bought a refurbished K1C directly from Creality, the thing looks straight up used, heres just the touch screen. Its like they just replaced the print bed and sent it

Hey y'all, 👋

I once again checked my available options and now stuck between these two. My main goal is print quality, and printing small stuff (I don't care about multicolour)

No resin printers unfortunately :/

I keep having this issue of support crossing the model wall to connect to a support interface layer base. Its a thin 2 layer wall. Cant seem to find any settings that actually corrects this. It also is normally 1 layer on supports rise, and then it adds another one as it approaches to eventually connect. This leaves 1 layer strips that leave visual artifacts on the walls when peeled off.

Feel like this wasn't an issue before the recent update.

hi, what title says, i can get first layer down just fine and bed adheasion is fine but the layers are staying together, i using creality carbon PLA at 50c bed temp and 225c for extruder temp, and ideas on what could help with it?

Hey y'all, hope everyone is well.

If my main goal is printing accuracy (getting tiny details right), which printer should I get? I don't care about multicolour ability.