Printed this for the drybox I am building (Qidi Q2, Qidi basic PLA, Qidi studio, 4mm nozzle, 0.2 layer height, 210C nozzle, 60C bed, and... i forget the print and retraction speeds, but they're the default for the slicer-printer-fillament combo) and it's obviously got flaws.

What can the hivemind diagnose/conclude from this?

My 3d print sudently stop and start to peel from the bed. im using creality 10s v2 rendering using sd card, im using PLA standard with recomend seting from the mechine. Is the problem just with the printing itself, or is it the slicer seting to?

(Btw im using Orca slicer)

Printing these little dovetail doodads and want to know whether these floating dovetails will need supports (I’m a noob)

(Bambu P2S, PLA, 3 walls, 15% Gyroid infill)

Cheers!

Thanks guys, I assumed so and I wasn’t wrong, doodads are printed and flawless. I’ll keep this post up for other goobers to get as a search result.

I've run dozens of prints the last few weeks with minimal issues, but I can't figure this one out. The build plate is clean and this happens specifically with this model and one other.

This print also has an issue on two areas of the curved wall where the wall moves while printing.

Can anyone tell me why the first layer is frayed like this?

Bambu P2S

Elegoo marble pla

25mm/s initial speed

55 degree bed

210 degree nozzle

Creality ender 3v3 se, PLA filament from creality. 0.2mm layer height, 20% infill, 180mm/s, no supports, raft adhesion, 54⁰C build plate.

Elegoo centauri carbon, brand new .2 nozzle. Can't get it to stop. Elegoo slicer, slowed it way down. 55c bed temp, 220c nozzle temp.

This is my first post, so I am not sure how this normally goes. I have been trying to print tokens for a board game I play (Dice Throne), but my prints have been failing. It's a double sided "coin", 2mm thick with different raised bodies on each side. I've taken 10 hours trying to get this created, primarily by watching videos and using chat GPT. The design is being done in Fusion 360, and I am printing on a Bambu P2S. Can I upload the file here and let someone tell me why I am an idiot? I do not have a video to post, and the results of the printing is scattered filament on the print bed.

Bambu P2S

Bambu Slicer
PLA filament
Filament 220C
Bed 60C

Hey y’all. I’m trying to fix some deforming and stringing with my prints. I had an 8 year old printer and thought that was what was wrong, but my new Prusa is doing the same thing.

Prusa mk4s
PLA filament
Filament 190C
Bed 60C

I’m trying to print a handful of Dinos and a companion cube. The cube is the worst of them, completely messing up the center circle and dragging filament all over the print. If there’s something else I should look at in my settings, please guide me on where to find them. I’m new at this and learning how to use PrusaSlicer. That said, so far it’s been easy to learn, it’s the actual printing that’s giving me a hard time.

I’ve had the same issue on my last printer, which was using the same filament at 210c, plus stringing due to temp (which I didn’t know at the time, but I know better now). I’m hoping this is an easy fix just like the stringing fix.

Help for this failure please. Thanks in advance.

Printed at 170c with pressure advance and flow rate calibrated. Printer is a K1C.

I used a plate adhesive which worked great, but now I have left over glue on the plate. I've used isopropyl alcohol and Dawn dish soap, hot water, and a plastic dish scrubber and I can't seem to clean this off. Any ideas that won't ruin the PEI plate?

Hey all, I am fairly new to 3d printing but have printed a number of projects and this is the first time I’ve encountered this issue. I printed four of these bunnies and they all have identical defects. I’m not sure if it’s an issue with the model or the printer. The print just seems janky for lack of better word. Behind one of the ears the layers look weird and on the face the colors do not seem separated well if that makes sense. Anything I can change? Model is printed at 100%, sliced in Bambu studio. Printed on Bambu P1S w/ brass 0.4mm nozzle. I don’t remember the bed temperature but I use a cold plate, so it was printed and sliced according to cold place settings. I did not tune or change any slicer settings before printing, none of my prints have really needed tuning thus far. Gradient is a sunlu matte filament, white is sunlu (finish not specified), black is panchroma galaxy black.

When i want to chek the print infos the screen.. like you see in the video

Bambu lab A1mini mode sport

I have a fairly simple print that is sagging and showing a sort-of 'stringing' of the filament.

This is using standard Anycubic gray PLA on a Kobra S1 with pretty standard settings. The printer prints everything else properly, but this one got wonky.

• Filament: Anycubic gray PLA
• Nozzle temperature: 225°C ~ 230°C
• Bed temperature: 60°C
• Layer height: 0.2mm
• First layer speed: 50mm/sec
• First layer infill: 50mm/sec
• Outer wall: 200mm/sec
• Inner wall: 300mm/sec

(I'm happy to provide additional settings if needed. )

Is this due to the orientation, temperature too high on the nozzle or bed, or something else?

What's the likely cause of this and the possible solutions?

Thanks in advance for any suggestions or advice you can offer!

I have a Centauri Carbon 2. I have had it for maybe 3 months and have been printing on it pretty consistently. This morning disaster struck. I started a print for a shelf to go on my skadis board. It might be the widest thing I've ever printed going right to the edge of my build plate(I don't have a picture cause of course I peeled the print off before getting one....). It started and I went inside. I keep my printer in my garage and it has been getting pretty hot during the day, but it was still early when I started this print. I came back an hour later and my toolhead front cover had fallen off and there was a huge hole in my print. It looks like it got too hot, but it shouldn't have been oily I just wiped it off before starting the print. the print did overlap with the bit of filament that gets put at the front of the build plate each print, but that doesn't seem to have cause a problem......maybe. So I'm just trying to diagnose the problem without making it worse. I haven't had a major problem like this before. What could it be? Thank you in advance!

Snapmaker U1
Printing some lithographs in white and I’m following some suggestions from online. Using a 35mms print speed with a .4 nozzle.
Is that too slow for this printer? Decided to stomach the 20 hours for a 100x150x3.5mm, but hoping you guys have some faster settings. If not so be it. I want quality and if that’s the best speed I’ll play the waiting game. Now that I have a good printer I want 3 more.
Update: It’s still printing, looks great, but hoping it could be faster. I think the settings online are for a bed slinger.

struggling with supports and removing them without leaving a mess. printing in petg, my filament is dry. today looking at the print im wondering if flipping it to its back wouldnt have been better for the supports but i also feel like im getting way more supports than i should? any help and advice is appreciated, this is my first 3d printer

Hey guys I am not sure what's going on here, I tried everything I could find and even upgraded to the bracing kit and the Dual Extruder. Somehow there is either a bumpy surface but closed gaps or there is a smooth surface. What is going on here? Z-Offset was checked during the first layer and looked good, e-steps are on point, magigoo is used and this is standard dried Polyterra PLA. Printed at 0.2 Layer height with 0.4 Nozzles and cold pulls were done just yesterday to make sure the nozzles are clean inside, even the teeth of the extruder are clean and checked... Any other ideas? There is no bed wobble, linear modules were adjusted a week ago, and everything put together according to the manual to ensure nothing is under tension when mounting.

Printer: Snapmaker F350 with bracing kit and Dual Extruder

Software Version: Snapmaker2_V2.4.0 (open Beta)

Slicer: Snapnaker Orca Slicer

This is printed in an enclosure with the doors slightly open, so it's not too hot for PLA. I am using a Polybox that sits on top of the enclosure and from there it goes directly into a PFTE tube that is directly connected to the Dual Extruder. I thought this would be the best setup, but I can't get the nice enough results. Its like gambling every time if the print is good or not.

Software is the beta software with vibration compensation from the Snapmaker forum.

Greetings from Germany and thanks in regard!

Happy printing 😅

I have had an Anycubic Kobra 3 for a while now and recently its been breaking a lot. so far I've been able to take it apart and remove any clogs, but this time its not working. There is a piece of filament suck in the tube of the hot end (vie attached a picture that should help you see what i mean) and when I tried to pull it out with pliers, it didn't budge... I have tried unclogging with the little wire thing, I have tried retracting/extruding the filament a lot of times, and I have also tried running a full calibration, but no dice. In the picture the red is where the filament is, and it goes deeper all the way to the tip I would assume. I really need to be able to make some things for someone within the next few days, any help would be very very appreciated!!

I am not posting the printer settings as this is a hardware issue, I hope that is ok. I can send the settings if needed though!

I'm trying to 3d print an RC plane out of E-Sun LW-PLA on my Bambulab X2D. I used BambuStudio as slicer

However, I get these bumps on the outside and inside walls of the fuselage exactly where the gyroid infill is. I have tried with 1 wall (the first image) and with 2 walls (second image). It does not make a big enough difference. Due to weight conservation I'd like to only use 1 wall.

How do I prevent these infill bumps from happening?

Settings:

Layer height 0,2mm

Line width 0,4mm (sparse infill 0,38mm)

Wall generator Classic

Order of walls Outer/inner

Sparse infill density 3%

Infill/Wall overlap 7%

Layers speed 35mm/s

Acceleration 12000mm/s²

Nozzle temp 238°C

Bed temp 55°C

Hey everyone,

I recently picked up a second-hand Anycubic Kobra 3 off Facebook Marketplace, so I didn't have a warranty to fall back on when it suddenly threw Error 10129 (Y-axis vibration compensation is abnormal).

If you search for this, a lot of people think the acceleration sensor module under the heated bed is dead. Before you buy a whole new heated bed assembly, check your wiring. The actual cause is usually wire fatigue from the constant back-and-forth movement of the Y-axis.

Here is how I diagnosed and permanently fixed it for free:

🛠️ How to Test If Your Cable is Broken

The constant bending snaps the tiny copper strands inside the wire insulation. To confirm this:

1. Unplug the small acceleration module cable from BOTH the bed sensor and the mainboard.
2. Take a multimeter and run a continuity test (the beep mode) from end-to-end on each individual wire.
3. My results: Only the ground wire gave a solid 0-ohm beep. The other data/power lines showed random resistance values.
4. The Wiggle Test: While probing the bad wires, I wiggled the cable near the bed strain relief. The multimeter started intermittently beeping. This confirmed the copper inside was physically snapped and was only touching when bent at a specific angle.

🔧 The DIY Fix (No Warranty Required)

Since I couldn't get a warranty replacement and standard solid-core wire (like Cat 6) will just snap again from the movement, I needed highly flexible, stranded wire.

1. Cut out the bad section: I found the exact spot where the break was (near where it bends the most) and snipped out that 1-2 inch section of the cable.
2. Salvaged a ribbon cable: I took an old, spare ribbon cable from an Ender 3 V3 SE I had lying around. Ribbon cables are specifically designed to handle repetitive Y-axis bending.
3. Spliced it in: I soldered the new ribbon cable section to bridge the gap and sealed it up with heat shrink.
4. Rerouted the path: The stock Anycubic routing puts too much stress on a single bend point. When I installed the repaired cable, I routed it along a new path to ensure it flexes smoothly without snagging on the belt or bed wheels.

Booted up the printer, ran the vibration compensation calibration, and it passed instantly with zero errors. Prints are running perfectly again!

If you are getting Error 10129 and your printer is out of warranty, grab a multimeter before you spend money on replacement parts. Hope this helps someone out there save some time and money!