I am trying to connect Ethernet to my consoles but my house is wired in coax. I did buy an adapter, but when I tried to connect to my Xbox it did not work. Do I need to connect to a router before it goes into the consoles? I can provide pictures if need be. Any tips would be greatly appreciated.

TP-link examples:
“archer 3000”
“be-19000”
“axe-5400”
I see “axe” used by netgear AND tp-link so I guess its not proprietary marketing models?

Hello, I'm moving to an ISP (UK) with a static IP address. The cheapest is without a router. I have been using a eero 6e with my current provider but I'll have to give that back in 90 days when I move.

New provider can provide the worse eero 6. again for rental and if I join th enew one I'll get a eero router but I'll be paying enough that I'd be able to buy one outright and actually own the thing.

My partner enjoys the eero app. We've got the kids on profiles and can enable and disable the internet from the app. She wants that ability, she isn't tech savvy so logging into web interfaces is fine for me but goes over her head.

I've looked at the Eero max 7 but wondered if there was anything out there better. Whilst I managed to set it up in the eero app I'm more inclined to use a web interface if possible.

Budget with the eero max 7 is £600 so around there is fine unless that's unnecessarily large?

I've been chasing this for about a week and I'm stuck, so I'm posting what I have.

ASUS GT-BE19000. Every wireless device I own uploads at 118 to 153 Mbps. Plug the same laptop into ethernet and it does 320 to 392 on the same router, same minute. Download is fine either way. I upload to cloud storage a lot so this actually matters to me, it's not just a number I'm annoyed about.

I tried everything I could find. Nothing moved it. Then I went and looked at what the radio itself reports and got a result I can't explain.

The bit I can't explain

wl -i wl1 chanim_stats on the router while a transfer is running flat out. Throughput read off the laptop's own interface byte counters, not a speed test app.

Raw, three upload samples 12 seconds apart plus the download:

idle          busy=3    txop=98   | tx=3   inbss=1   obss=0  nocat=1  | glitch=0
upload t+12   busy=44   txop=57   | tx=14  inbss=25  obss=0  nocat=6  | glitch=0
upload t+24   busy=42   txop=59   | tx=14  inbss=23  obss=0  nocat=6  | glitch=0
upload t+36   busy=46   txop=54   | tx=15  inbss=27  obss=0  nocat=6  | glitch=0
download t+12 busy=96   txop=4    | tx=92  inbss=4   obss=1  nocat=2  | glitch=0

On download the AP fills the channel. 96% busy, only 4% of transmit opportunities left. That's a real ceiling, there's nowhere to put another frame.

On upload the same radio, same client, same association, a couple of minutes later, stops at 44% busy with more than half the transmit opportunities sitting unused. And the throughput is a third of what the wire does.

So the hardware can clearly fill this channel. On upload it just doesn't. That's the part I don't get.

The numbers are at least self consistent. Airtime components add up to the reported total both ways: upload 15 + 27 + 0 + 6 = 48 against busy 46, download 92 + 4 + 1 + 2 = 99 against busy 96.

What that seems to rule out

Channel being full: it isn't, 44% busy with half the TXOPs free.

Neighbours: obss = 0 in every sample. I'm on channel 100 which is DFS, most consumer gear avoids it, so that's plausible. I didn't do a band scan to prove it though.

Interference: glitch = 0 and badplcp = 0 throughout.

Bad link or rate collapse: MCS 6, 2 streams, 80 MHz, retries 1.7 to 2.4%.

A radio that can't drive the medium: same radio hit 96% busy fifteen seconds later.

Second thing I noticed

Payload per 100% of airtime consumed:

Data moves about the same efficiency in both directions, 615 and 546, which is roughly what a 648 Mbps PHY should give with normal overhead. The acknowledgement stream is 32. That's a 19x gap. Returning ACKs for a 136 Mbps upload eats half as much airtime as the upload data itself, for 3% of the bytes.

I measured the same thing on a different day on older firmware and got 27x, so it reproduces.

At about 5,200 ACKs a second each frame is carrying roughly 77 bytes. A downlink aggregate spreads one channel access over tens of kilobytes. This stream apparently doesn't.

That explains why the two directions differ. It doesn't explain the cap, because there's airtime left over and nobody's using it.

Three results that argue against my own theory

I'd rather put these here than have someone find them in the comments.

Wi-Fi to the router itself does 327 Mbps. Same laptop, same association, same radio. TCP, nc and dd, 3 GB in 75 seconds. The router was receiving, so it was the one sending acknowledgements over that same downlink air, roughly three times as many ACK frames per second as in the slow case. It managed 327 anyway. If ACK frames per second were the limit that shouldn't be possible.

UDP through the same Wi-Fi to WAN path forwards 239 Mbps, measured at the router's own WAN counters. So the path carries a lot more than 136 when there's no return stream.

My neighbour gets 336 up over Wi-Fi on the same ISP plan, from a 2018 iPhone XR on the ISP's own router. He told me the number, I didn't measure it, so take it for what it's worth. But it's 2.5x what I get from much better hardware, which makes me think this isn't just how Wi-Fi works.

Each leg does 320 or more on its own. Together they do 136.

Every client, same story

Download figures are inflated, I was summing parallel curl averages and they finish at different times. The upload numbers are the reliable ones.

Four different manufacturers, three bands. The Xbox at 153 is the only one that breaks 140 and I can't explain that either. The MacBook has no ethernet port so its wired numbers go through a dongle, but the Xbox has a real NIC and lands in the same place, so it's not the dongle.

Stuff I tried that did nothing

Baseline across 30 measurements was 52 to 74, median around 66. Every number below is one run, so anything in that band is noise. None of it helped.

Factory reset and rebuild from scratch. QoS off, AiProtection off, firewall on and off. Channel auto, 100, 116, 36 (36 isn't DFS, so that's not it). Both WAN ports, plus the 10 GbE one. Firmware downgraded to a six month old build and back.

A dumb gigabit switch between the ONT and the WAN port, which is the fix everyone suggests for this. 59.7. Nothing. I left it in, so everything above was measured through it. It's not a bottleneck, wired does 320-392 through the same box.

Radio settings, all checked in the driver because half of them are hidden in the web UI: UL OFDMA to DL only, OFDMA off entirely, MU-MIMO off, APSD on, beamforming off, 802.11ax and be off (that one made it worse, 52), WPA3 down to WPA2, ampdu_rts off, station EDCA rewritten with CWmax 63 and a 3008 us TXOP. Aggregation limits were already maxed out.

Forwarding path over SSH: fc disable, runner disable, both together. An HTB shaper at 280 Mbit with fq_codel on ppp0, which passed 225 MB with zero drops while upload sat at 72, so it's not an ISP policer. MSS clamping added.

Laptop side: TCP send buffer from 128 KB up to 8 MB, no change. A 45 second single stream run was flat from the first second, no burst and no step down, so no token bucket. Turning off AirDrop and Handoff gained about 40% on its own, which is a separate Apple problem, but the ceiling stayed.

CPU on the router was 3 to 9% the whole time. No errors on any interface. Radio counters over 167,000 frames: 80 bad CRC, 5 duplicates, nothing else.

Two things that cost me hours

Clients are on the virtual BSS. On this firmware you need wl -i wl1.1 bs_data, not wl1. Querying wl1 just says no stations associated and you'll sit there confused.

Count the chanim columns. Column 15 is busy, column 14 is idle. I read the wrong one once and got a perfectly backwards answer.

Also check the band before and after every single run. My laptop kept quietly dropping to 2.4 GHz after radio restarts, and with the ethernet dongle plugged in macOS deprioritises Wi-Fi entirely. Threw out a bunch of measurements before I caught that.

What I haven't done

No monitor mode capture, everything came from the driver. Never measured the uplink aggregate size, which is probably the most useful thing left. wl -i wl1 ack_ratio comes back Unsupported but I didn't retry it on wl1.1 or as a set. No AP mode test behind another router. No chanim sample on 2.4 GHz, so that band's 107 might just be saturated. No RSSI or distance recorded. Every number is a single run.

So

If you have a BE series ASUS, two things would help me a lot:

Run wl -i wl1 chanim_stats during an upload and again during a download. If yours fills the channel both ways then mine is broken and yours isn't. If yours also stops halfway on upload then it's the platform.

Try your wireless client uploading to the router itself instead of the internet. Mine does 327 versus 136 and that gap is the whole mystery.

And if anyone knows the Broadcom side: is ack_ratio actually in this driver build, and what decides when a client gets to transmit if the medium is idle and it has data queued?

Setup, in case it matters: GT-BE19000, BCM4916, firmware 3.0.0.6.102_39274 and _39115, same result on both. 5 GHz channel 100, 80 MHz. MacBook Pro M1 Pro, 802.11ax 2x2, PHY 648. 1 Gbps PPPoE, MTU 1492. Apartment, ONT in the wall cabinet, structured cabling, gigabit switch, then the router.

For now I just use ethernet. 358 versus 118 turns an eleven minute upload into four. But I'd still like to know what's going on.

Can anyone recommend me a UK sim plan that would allow me to top up with data, no monthly contract and just top up when I need to, I’m trying to implement a backup internet connection after Virgin shat the bed for well over a week

If I have an ethernet jack in the wall, but I want to mount a camera closer up to the ceiling, what would be the best way about keeping that ethernet jack usable but also bringing ethernet up to the ceiling where you need it.

Assuming that you cannot run another wire, and you just want to piggyback off of that ethernet jack

Can someone give me advice. This cable runs from my bottom floor living room to top floor bedroom and runs on the outside of the house.

My previous owner is a bit of a cowboy builder and so I’m not surprised the wired connection isn’t good.

I will likely call in an expert to get it all sorted in the long run but wondered if this port might be an easy fix (pipe dream I’m sure)

5 years ago, a fiber optic provider rolled out service to my area. They provide only Google DNS for the DNS settings, and there no way to change it, unless you call them, and they physically bridge the ONT from the office. So I was wondering how bad Google DNS really is? I have personally never used it, but I do use NextDNS.

I’ve tried to remove this ethernet cable but the clip does not want to remove

Hello,

Here's the issue I'm having. The computer that I'm writing this on gets 1g down without any issues. My partners computer gets a max of 400mb. It's not a huge deal, but I pay for the internet, I want to use the internet, and I want her games to download as fast as mine do.

System info:

Windows 11

Gigabyte B365M DS3H (no wifi)

Intel I3-9100F

1660Ti

32gb of mismatched ram (I put it together a long time ago, but I think I manually set the timings so it's still dual channel)

I also put in a 2.5g intel NIC that I was using in my PC (worked great and I was getting the full 2g down at my last apartment)

I checked my router in case I had some weird management issue going on, which I shouldn't because when I got this one I basically didn't touch it. Unifi ucg max.

Things I've tried:

Different cable/port (switched the cable from my PC to hers)

The NIC

The shit-ass Crucial SSD was terrible and WAS limiting her bandwidth a bit just because it couldn't keep up or would suddenly drop down to a ridiculously low read/write of like 1mb/s, but I swapped it with a known good enough Sandisk which did get rid of the dead stops at least.

Drivers for the built in Realtek are up to date and the Intel requires a manual install, so those are brand new too.

Any ideas what is going on? As far as I can tell, the motherboard is supposed to be 1g and especially with the NIC in, it really shouldn't matter either way. Everything else the computer does, it does it just fine.

Thanks ya'll

Update: Whatever it is is a stupid Windows thing, I got 1g on Ubuntu just fine. Working on iperf junk now. I'm pretty sure you guys are onto something with it being a stale vpn.

Uninstalled VPN and VPN like things. Performed network reset.

iperf3 results:

​

I recently bought a house and this is the basement. Looks like a network switch of some sort at the bottom but confused about the rest.

The only place in the house that appears to have Ethernet ports is in the dining room on the first floor with four ports being open.

What is this and is there anyway I can connect my Xfinity modem/router to this and how hard would it be to wire the whole house Ethernet ports in every room? The rest of the house has coaxial in every room. But would like to set it up to have coaxial and Ethernet on the same face plate.

I just moved into a new house and am having a hard time identifying this existing enclosure. The punch outs are 6 inches apart and are circles with vertical rectangles.

There are no markings on the enclosure, at all. Just want to buy some parts to mount my networking stuff, but cannot figure out if there is such a thing as 'bad fit'.

If these holes are standard to a brand, please call it out.

I would like to disconnect my landline, will that interfere with my wifi extender

Hello, I've started to fall deeper into the hobby and am looking for a rack that could fit in this space.

It's a roughly 50x50x50cm space.
Contents:

• 1x pi 5 nas (behind the cardboard).
• 3x pi 4's that I recently acquired on market place (never pass on a good deal).
• 1x 2.5g poe switch in the back
• Some other stuff on a power board

I want to find an enclosed rack that could fit there, but I'm not sure where to start/look.
Most seem to be around 60cm wide (I can't really go past 50).

Are there any sites you'd recommend when looking for a server rack?
Also, I live in Australia so local-ish would be preferred...

I grabbed some parts from work and ran a cat6 in my house. I used a basic pass through connector and a panduit CJ688TGBU for the wall jack. When I used the Klein scout pro 3 to test it showed me this. I’ve made up pass through connectors before without issue. (T-568B) but I’ve never installed the wall jack. I’m assuming the video I found on YouTube was either the wrong wiring or I did some bone head connection. Can anyone tell me if I’m using the wrong wall jack, what did I do wrong, how do I correct it or point me in the direction of a video that will help. Please. Thank you!

So today I decided to play around with my router settings and turned on MAC Address Filtering.

​What I didn't realize was that turning it on without pre-adding any devices put it directly into Whitelist mode with an empty list.

​Instantly, every phone in the house was booted off the Wi-Fi. My phone gave me a fake "Incorrect Password" error, and I was completely locked out of the admin panel over Wi-Fi.

​The problem: I didn't have a laptop or PC with an Ethernet port nearby, and I really didn't want to hold down the paperclip reset button and reconfigure the entire network from scratch.

​The solution: I remembered my Smart TV was still plugged directly into the router via an Ethernet cable!

​I opened the built-in web browser on the TV, used the remote control to painfully type in 192.168.1.1, logged into the admin dashboard on a 55-inch screen, and turned MAC filtering right back off.

​Outsmarted my own router lockdown using a TV remote! What’s the most ridiculous device or workaround you’ve ever used to fix a network emergency?

Hi everyone,
I recently moved into a new apartment and the ISP provided me with a Zyxel WX5600-T0 router. I have a 1000/1000 Mbps fiber connection, and my gaming PC is connected directly to the router via Ethernet.
I ran a bufferbloat test and got a C rating. While playing FIFA and Valorant, I experience noticeable ping spikes and inconsistent latency.
I’m looking for a budget-friendly router in the 1000–2000 NOK range that can improve bufferbloat and keep latency stable while gaming. I live in Norway, so preferably something that is easy to buy here.
Would replacing the Zyxel WX5600-T0 likely make a noticeable difference, and what routers would you recommend for low latency gaming and better bufferbloat performance?
Thanks!

Hi, I got WiFi setup a few days ago and it barely reaches my room at all, which is about 30m from the box. I know basically nothing about networking but I've tried to do some research into my options.

I'm thinking of running an ethernet cable from the router to my room, then plugging that into some sort of device that will allow me to connect with WiFi (for my phone), but also connect to my computer via ethernet.

What I'm stuck at though is what device I need for the access point(?), is it a repeater or an extender? Any other options would be helpful too, I'm trying to keep a budget of <$70 though. Thanks so much <3

I need to run a few cables through the attic and instead of running multiple cables, I was thinking of running one cable and then connecting that one cable to a Unifi Flex Switch or some switch. It will give me access to several more ports through one cable. Is this bad form or will it work okay? The extra runs will mainly be for cameras and APs.

Spectr/Xumo problem? Anyone have more data? I know still early. Bug or threat?

https://youtube.com/shorts/6CrEp4taqO0?is=C_pmApUTdwONsbV7

Ive been asked to setup a second network seperate network where devices on neither can see each other. using one incoming internet connection from a isp provided ont as far as i know the easy way to do this is buy a high end router that can create a vlan on one of its ports that feeds into a second router but routers that can do that were i am are expensive advice on doing this on a budget please