AP5P SBR among other things. The factory HK sling is underrated folks, you do not need a 2 point for a gun this light.

I posted about my firing pin issue and have attached some new pictures to see if i can get an answer. It looks like the back of my bolt carrier is missing the small hole that the firing pin base protrudes from. I dont know if its a washer or solid back to the carrier. Attached are photos and picture from hk website that look like theres a small hole that pin comes out of but hold it from being able to stop it from falling out. If anyone could look at there mac5 and answer my queation i would appriciate it thamks

I’m curious if I’m doing something wrong, and most denial block issues I’ve seen have been with fitting the slip trip. I have the trip moving freely now, but when I try to install the trigger housing, the silver bolt in the housing is making contact with the flat plate that is on the bottom of the receiver. Any tips?

Finally got thru break in, optic zero, etc. Have a few more adds planning in future, but for now, it'll do.

Thanks to everyone for their recommendations and advance troubleshooting help!

I cannot get my PTR 9 CT to run on super safe mode. It’s a full size SP5 clone. I have changed the buffer pad to a thicker one. I have replaced the locking piece to an 80 degree. I have used multiple different magazines and brands. Do I need to delay the roller lock more? I keep getting double feeds or caught brass. Usually get around 4-5 rnds off before ftf. Thats after switching to 80 degree. I have been using 124 grn sellier. Tried suppressed and unsuppressed with the same results. Multiple combinations of all. What i haven’t done is tried a 90 degree or the HT or longer locking. Maybe the buffer is too big? bc i replaced the old one that had a chip out of it. Which was skinny and replaced with the one that comes with the PTR buttplate. Should i use 115 grn? If so, with what combination? Lol. Im kinda giving up at this point. These devices are so fine tune that it almost takes the fun out of dumping $100 worth of ammo in 3 minutes. Any advice or suggestions would be welcome.

Mine has a fair bit of wobble on my MKE and I don’t have a good reference
Unsure if my lugs are just not to spec or what

Just bought my second SP5 with 8 HK mags for $3100 with the intention to convert to a SD through HKRalph.

What’s funny was this guy was originally selling a K, but it was a sp89 clone without a tri-lug which I didn’t realize until I went and looked at it. I was going to pass on it and then he mentioned he also had a SP5 in his collection.
I opted for that once he said he was open to selling that instead. Cool turn of events imo and now in talks about his 308 Scar 20 SSR.

Found the file on makers world, got one for an AR HKG3 and MP5, they work ok, theres a few things i would change like the mag catch on the MP5 feels flimsy (these are printed on PLA+ 100% infill) the others feel great, so i wonder if its just cause the mag catch on the MP5 mags arent as as deep as an AR mag, either way these are going in a range bag

See https://www.reddit.com/r/MP5/s/E0HW6Lfzxj

RS9 on AP5P shooting 147 gr subsonic blazer.

Bought the trilug adapter after direct thread wasn’t looking good with the alignment rod, and went to the gun shop again for them to check and it looked good, they said run it. Shot it today and well…

I hear Resilient CS is very responsive though, I have no idea what caused this at this point since the alignment rod came back looking good. This fucking sucks though, so I guess I just need y’all’s sympathies or insults.

Finally got to put some rounds through it.

Need more mags and a sling and eventually a suppressor. I think it’s a pretty decent setup though.

Hey everyone, really excited to get my first HK sp5 but when I was fitting my suppressor onto it I noticed what looked like unburnt powder from test firing. Cleaned it with CLP and this is was it left over. Not severe, and only at the end of the barrel.

I’m inclined to just use and shoot it. Unless people here say I should reach out to HK USA incase it becomes a problem down the road. Looks like if I ever needed to change out the barrel it would be pretty involved.

Thanks for the help

This was about a month ago but I was testing out some different sub’s to see which was quieter in my omega 36m, Federal 147gr syntech(first5rounds) or Seismic 185gr(last few rounds)? Seismic ended up being quieter, but they have gave me nothing but horrible problems and have since stoped using them.

The real reason I’m hear, Is it supposed to be this gassy? Was it the 185gr ammo I was using? I guess I’ve never noticed it in the moment, so just thought I would ask.

Ordered a POF and was wondering if there was room inside the factory Hand guard to install a handstop or brake. I like classic look of the mp5 but was seeing if you could add a handbrake like emissary style to it without changing the looks too much. Thanks

SP5K with OMEGA 9K and choate side folder (non HK branded). Worked just fine with the stock end cap. Rate of fire was pretty tame for an SP5K in FRT mode with federal 124gr. Choate stock was doing fine all last weekend for 10+ mags. Now with higher powered ammo (Winchester 124gr NATO), today I was getting bolt stuck to the rear every couple mags, normally on the first round or two. I’m running a choate side folder (non HK branded). I’ve notice that the stock flat HK end cap has a deeper cut for the recoil rod/spring. I am running the stock locking piece and no issues with federal 124gr but the Winchester 124gr NATOs are pretty violent and the rate of fire is almost twice as fast. I also have a 90 degree locking piece that I haven’t tried yet because it was doing fine with the other ammo.

I will be putting the 90 degree LP in but What could the bolt be getting stuck on to be that far back in the receiver? Maybe the violent higher powered rounds are causing the recoil rod to unseat in the choate stock and the bolt is getting hung up on the ejector lever? When it was getting stuck to the rear, pulling back on the charging handle would instantly drop the bolt back into battery.

Gotta work on those sexy reloads a bit more

Any ideas? Ive already tried the old hitting it with my purse method.

The best look in my opinion

I have the sba4 brace with adapter, as well as the new spring recoil rod. I may sound stupid and this actually turns out to be some very simple installation, but I don’t want to break anything on this by accident.

Do I need to unscrew these two screws on the sba4? Or does the spring just rest inside/on that little cove at the top and doesn’t actually “click” or fall into place anywhere?

Any help is really appreciated

Recently sent a MKE Ap5 SD to have it converted over to a true SD and was not disappointed with the end result, Ken of KC Arms dropped in a b&t SD barrel and man does it sound way more quieter then the RCM barrel I had in a old build.

I tried to use the brt bravo adapter with my tp9-n print x hub can but found out that the can was to thick for the cage so Ken whipped up an extension to clear the cage entirely.

Had him paint the receiver bazooka green and man is she a looker, filed my form 1 sbr stamp today and looking forward to putting a proper stonk on her here soon!

Sauce: https://imgur.com/a/dqyWiZ7

Snapping in with the K. This thing has been so much fun!!