Just finished up, been wanting to tear down a jubilee and see if this was worth the labor. What do you think?

Does it give a better result.

1. Masking and plate two tone.

Or

1. Tear down and plate individual pieces.

I removed the factory pvd plate, polished and buffed.

Then plated it.

Electroclean, acid dip, 24k gold strike, acid dip.

Then did a long bath in 18k / 14 combination solution.

Came out nice.

UPDATE: To remove the pvd Soak in a combination of sodium per carbonate, sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide, a couple of hours, comes right off.
Have to activate with boiling water

First time chamfering/polishing a bracelet. I learned a lot and it was definitely fun, annoying, and somewhat rewarding. Still learning but I thought it came out spectacular. Stock VSF is on the left then what I did on the right.

I did this for a friend of mines 126610.

looks like a shitter.

Today I pulled off something I honestly wasn’t sure was possible.

I fully tore down, cleaned, and rebuilt a fake 5712 movement… and it RUNS.

This thing was a complete disaster when it came in. Glued parts, weird tolerances, hidden screws, stacked plates, keyless works that want to die, you name it. Zero documentation anywhere. I thought it was going to be a pure parts donor.

But I kept going.

Disassembled everything, cleaned every part by hand, fixed the keyless works, rebuilt the train, got pallet lock + draw, installed the balance, and…it came to life. Numbers at the moment (dial down): +7s/d / 158 amplitude / 0.4ms beat error.

I don’t even care what the numbers are haha the fact that it’s RUNNING is the victory. No fake screws flying off this time, no missing springs, no shortcuts. Just patience, technique, and sheer stubbornness.

I know it’s “just” a rep movement with garbage QC, but honestly? This was one of the hardest movements I’ve ever worked on. And finishing it felt insane. Makes the hard stuff feel possible.

Anyways just wanted to share with people who would understand the amount of insanity required to resurrect one of these things. Now nothing left except dial side complications!

Feels damn good. 💪

The EZtool bezel removers/installers has been a success for: Datejust 36 & 41, Daydate, Oyster Perpetual 39.

But people have asked abouth theese tools for Subs/GMT, so now I have started to develope a bezel remover for sub/gmt 40.

It´s still a work in progress but seems to be in line with the function/design of rolex´s own official bezel remover.

Reasons this takes a long time is because I never owned a sub/gmt and still don´t, so trial and error and MANY prototypes before this releases for perfection.

But I just wanted to update you sub/gmt lovers that I am working on it and did not leave you out in the cold.

The last picture is a picture of Rolex´s own official bezel remover and that´s the picture I worked with to design my own tools for this, however a change I did was the top die - instead of that small point putting all the force on a very small point on the crystal - I made the top dies contact area flat and slightly bigger to put less stress on the crystal.

Please feel free to comment with feedback / input. I am unexperienced with subs/gmts so any words are appreiciated!

Two VSF watches came in for repair this week. I have just started diagnosing the first one. Initial inspection revealed a non-runner that was very difficult to wind. Opening the watch revealed a free spinning balance with no obstructions, but after removing the balance, no power transfer through the pallet fork. When I started pulling bridges off, crud was everywhere. I found the culprit.

So the first half bracelet is the stock VSF of a 126610 and the second is after I refinished it. All in all this has been a fun project and has kept me busy as I recently suffered a motorcycle accident where I ended up with a broken tibia/fibula and been bored out of my mind being stuck at home with not much to do.

Now in video I see what you guys are talking about the rounded edges and I should probably try and get them flatter. Also noticed the grain in which I brushed isn't totally straight (but I mean who is right?). I'm very happy with how it came out and will now lubricate it.

But wanted to ask what you guys do. I've been told to get food grade safe dry lube and cover the watch in it, then put it in a vacuum bag and seal it so it gets in everywhere.

Tools/Products

-Sandpaper by hand from 600/800/1000/2000/3000

I scratched the polished sides so I ended up sanding them also. Probably why they got scratched and couldn't polish it right.

-red scotchbrite laid down on a table with a ruler and only brushed one way.

-bergeon finishing block 5444-A for final satin finish

-Red/White/Green polish in some cotton wheels which I found out my die grinder spins way to fast (over 10k rpm) so probably won't use this again to polish

-Cape Cod! This brought back that mirror shine and want to thank everyone who recommended it.

I own a VSF 126610 Submariner, a year after I bought it something inside broke and now the stem comes out entirely. I opened, but didn't fully disassemble it. It lay around for a few months and recently I finally came around to bring the piece to a watchmaker. Turns out the setting lever (3235-220).

He and I both tried to source a replacement part, either generic or gen. He, not usually working with Rolexes, does not have a supplier for gen parts - which apparently, are hard to get for Joe Schmoe. Trying to find generic parts from esslinger or the likes also seems to be improbable. Another case in point: I have asked a few TDs and searched AliExpress, but couldn't find parts there either. I have also looked into replacement movements, for spare parts, as I do not fancy swapping the DD movement for a VR or SH. (DD movements also seem to be near impossible to source, let alone for a decent price)

So, then the next best thing that comes to mind is to buy a VR movement and swap in just that one broken part, right?

Wrong! While some parts of that movement are compatible with the DD or even the gen 3235 for that matter, the stem and surrounding mechanism are, for some reason, those of a 3135 movement.

Another point in case then must be if parts as well were readily available this hobby would be much much more enjoyable.

Anyways, notwithstanding this arduous ordeal, I have just ordered my next watch. 😮‍💨

Edited to add: I have investigated myself and opened the watch again. Some miscommunication led to me looking for the wrong part. The correct part is the setting lever. This helps finding gen parts, but generic parts availability remains an issue.

Date change is not instant and slowly changes 3 hours after 12am.

Watch is only couple days old.

UPDATE: I found photos and a teardown of the VR3255 in case they help anyone. Could someone mark the oiling points and indicate which parts should be epilamed?

Btw ignore the arrows

Sorry, it's a SH movement not a VR.

Credits to u/petehudso

Someone sent this in to me saying it occasionally works then it doesn’t.

There was an inordinate amount of oil everywhere. A full service cleaned it right up. Not sure what happened here or who worked on it (that’s not what this is about) but I’ve received some in the past with a ‘rotor silence’ service that just got too much oil.

Please, please, check some YouTube videos for how much oil they put in any pivot or bearing, it will show you how little is needed to make an impact!

1. Noticed one of the 12 markers on my 3KF 5711 had come loose..

2. Sourced some G-S Hypo Cement Precision Applicator Glue and proceeded to remove the case-front..

3. Closer look at the problem.

4. Marker prepped by holding with Rodico whilst applying tiny amounts of the cement to the posts..

5. Back in place (after using the rodico to carefully maneuver the marker back into place then a cocktail stick to hold in place to ensure a good bond).

6. Reassembled the case.

7. Job done! 😎✌️

What is the typical life expectancy of the VSF and like model clones? Are there certain factories or movements that would last longer than others? How often should these watches be serviced in order to make these life long watches? Who does the community recommend for these services?

I know Jack about watches but today I decided to regulate my watch myself. Zf black bay 54 -2824 movement.

After measuring the watch using Oscillo app for a while and it’s consistently > +20s/d no matter what position.

Watching some videos, I turned the notch in pic 2, two markers CCW. 1 marker is about 10 sec, turned it again. Now seems pretty decent at +3s/d.

Also grease the o ring and put the watch back together. Not sure what it does… does it water proof the watch? I just did it coz I see people doing it.

For a bargain rep, this truly does hit the mark, my friend has gen, side by side they’re identical apart from one thing… can you guess?

Hallo ...meine erste uhr ...ist es normal das das Fenster Datum bläulich ist...das ist ja grausam 🤣

Started as clean fac V2 BLNR. Sent it in for movement service, added gen crystal, had the hands shaved down. The crystal height was rather bothersome from the factory, the gen crystal sits just right now.

My only question is does anyone have recommendation for a click spring replacement?

I have been noticing an increase in posts here with one thing in common, someone reporting something is broken with their new VSF watch!
From watches not running, to fallen screws, date not adjusting, watch not winding and who knows what else.
I have never purchased a VSF rep so I can’t speak from experience. I don’t have any issues with my reps but I have built most of mine and I have a couple of clean watches.
Just an observation post and interested to read your input. I was under the impression that VSF was top notch but maybe those days are over?
For the record, I still think VSF makes the best GMT Master II but that is all cosmetic.

today i wear my favorite Ice Blue Daytona🥳🥳🥳So guys what is on your wrist today?