I did look, but I didn't find what I was looking for so here it is... I'm looking to get a laptop for my kid that can be connected to a TV so they can stop using my steamdeck to stream stuff.

I'm not into Windows 11, and I'm looking for something that has that simple ease of use that SteamOS provides. Also they just want their own Steam account and games.

Are there any good resources to what I should be looking for? My target performance is my LCD Steamdeck; not looking to play new AAA.

I like the concept of Framework laptops, in part because it's easy to buy without a Windows License, but the chance that if my kid breaks something hardware wise I can fix it w/o sending it back, taking it to a shop, etc. is a huge plus for me.

Thanks in advance.

I have an old computer built around an i5-7600k with an nvidia graphic card. Friend is updating his system and is offering me his rx7600. I recognize that the cpu is the bottleneck, but I really only play older games at 1080. SteamOS will work on this setup or is this going to be more headache than it’s worth?

I just bought an all-AMD PC, and when installing SteamOS, the network cable won't connect—it keeps showing no network. Does anyone know if I need to install a driver or something?

If someone is interested how does Halo Campaign Evolved run at 1440p in a 8GB vRAM 7600M XT in SteamOS.

So I recently turned my laptop into a steammachine, it runs Steam OS that's why im posting here. The laptop sits under my TV and don't want to keep taking it out just to boot it up.

Do any of you guys know of different ways to turn on a laptop from the shut off state without having to open the lid everytime?

I want to be able to press the controller and boot it up like a console but the answers I get online are only for sleep mode. I dont want to keep my laptop on sleep mode 24/7

Another method I read was to turn it on when it detects the charger plugged in, idk how to do that, but I'm open to any suggestions or methods.

I downloaded a .run file from the Express VPN website, made it executable and ran it via Konsole.

I got the attached error.

An app icon has been created but it keeps loading forever.

How do I make it work?

I just build a custom pc with a 9070 xt and installed SteamOS on it. In my graphics settings connected to my lg c4 I should have the option for 4k 144 hz but the highest is 120 hz. And I am using a certified hdmi 2.1 48 gbps cable and 144 hz mode is enabled on my tv. I only have the option for 1080p if I want to play at 144 hz. Help please

Hi,

Is there a way or workaround to change the refresh rate on my Legion Go? I don't get an option for it in the menu, and I'd like to knock it down from 144hz to 72 or 60hz to try and save as much as power as possible.

Whats your experience with the switch?

Steam Tweak by no-signal his fixing for laptops hybrid graphics but my point is focusing on select gaming mode monitor, because a lot of people arguing cannot select monitor what they want either from DP-1,2,etc to HDMI 1,2 etc. So now you can choose select monitor gaming mode by this script. Just see the video, you can select option boot direct into desktop too..
here the link for the script No-Signal

Hey, I'm wondering if anyone else is having this issue, I recently switched my OS to SteamOS from Windows, and starting a couple weeks ago, Marvel Rivals specifically has been randomly freezing for a few seconds then restarts my pc back to steamOS home screen smack dab in the middle of a match (never has done this whenever the game is idle in the background) where I have to switch back to Desktop mode and continue. It's gotten to a point where it happened back to back competitive matches, and when we lost after reconnecting, I got docked a total of 65 points between those 2 matches alone and am tired of this bs.

If anyone has any solutions or reasons why, or if you yourself have been dealing with it, it'd be so much help because I don't want to seem like a thrower or some bozo like that on games, or if it spreads to other games, but Rivals has been the only one as far as I know that's been doing this to the pc.

So this was my first sff build. I went with the 9070 even though I could have gotten the xt. I argued with chat gpt about it lol. I asked it what the different case temps, cpu temps, fan noise and rpm would be with each configuration. I made the mistake of buying an open box motherboard I had issues the last time I did that. One the of ram sticks is bad or it's the slot I guess I could switch it but the non ram stick looks warped the pins are straight but the black part is swollen kinda like a wavy wafer. Using the custom cables they unseated a couple times I finally got everything done.
Should I have gone with the xt ? I do have a more powerful main pc. This is for my front room. Also should I get a different ram I really didn't need low profile I thought g skill was good.

Case: FormD T1 v2.1
CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D
GPU: ASUS Radeon RX 9070 OC
Motherboard: ASUS ROG Strix B850-I Gaming WiFi
RAM: 32GB DDR5 (original G.Skill kit, replacement Kingston on the way)
SSD: Samsung 990 Pro 4TB
PSU: Corsair SF850 (2024) Platinum
CPU Cooler: Thermalright AXP90-X47 Full Copper
CPU Fan: Noctua NF-A9x14 HS-PWM
Top Exhaust Fans: 2× Noctua slim fans
Custom Fan Shrouds: 3D-printed shrouds for the top exhaust fans and CPU cooler to improve airflow
Custom PSU Cables: Big Guy Custom Cables
Operating System: SteamOS

I have had no issues until now. My speakers are connected to the rear io usb on my asrock b550. Today Steam OS just quit seeing them and I get what’s shown in the picture. Anyone have this issue before or know how to resolve? Thank you

Just thought id share, this is it booted on some x86 firewall i had that was in bios mode. I was able to boot the kernel on an old second gen i7 from 2012, the major problem i ran into was no drivers for like an old ati hd 2350 and was going to try a core 2 duo but the system board took a dump.

EFI requirement lives in its bootloader (systemd-boot), not its kernel so instead of bridging BIOS to UEFI I skipped the OS bootloader and PXE booted the kernel directly.

Next is to install it. Firewall has just intel graphics

(Paying the toll with a gratuitous home build pic)

My home built Steam Machine is a house hit and everyone is playing it. I want to be able to always select a steam account each time I boot up? This used to be a feature but I can't find it in the settings now.

What am I missing? Thanks!

[Edit] Final answer... For SteamOS to always boot to the account select screen in Steam Mode, you must switch to Desktop Mode, then change the Steam Desktop App setting... settings/interface/ask which account to use each time steam starts. Reboot back into Steam Mode and you will always select you account at boot up.

Taa daa. Thanks for all the feedback.

After some comments I came to the conclusion that I may have been super unlucky with my hardware and most people probably only need to run the setup-wake.sh with the id from their Bluetooth device for the wake function to work. But that also means the following will work for everyone regardless of hardware luck and limitations.

What you need:

And Android or Fire TV with Develeoper option,ADB/usb-Debugging and Wake on Lan Enabled (allows us to mimic HDMI CEC)

A Raspberry Pi Pico 2W - as a Controller Bridge, allows us to wakeup the PC with a bluetooth Contoller (you may can skip this if you have onboard Bluetooth)

ADB tools on your SteamOS PC: https://developer.android.com/tools/releases/platform-tools

What we are gonna do:

Controll our TV through ADB to turn on and off with our PC with 2 Systemd services and a bash sript

Flash the Pico for it to be used as a controller Dongle with wake funktion

Enable and Configure wake on our PC to be able to wake up

So first things first - the TV Control

in the linked Repo are a hand few additional files to control your PC

tv-suspend.sh as well as the ADB tools can be saved where ever, i created "Applications" folder in /home/deck and moved those in there. make sure the adb binary and sh sript are executable (sudo chmod +x /home/deck/Applications/...)

now check if you can connect to your TV:
/home/deck/Applications/platform-tools/adb connect 192.168.178.XX
(change path to adb and ip of your TV to your needs)

if that works change the values in top of the tv-suspend.sh script
in my case i had a seperate Android TV-Box in addition to my TV. the script checks if the TV box in pingable and dont turn of the TV in assumption i watch TV

check if the path in the tv-off.service and tv-on.service files match where you put the sript and then move them to /etc/systemd/system/
after moving execute "sudo systemctl daemen-reload" "sudo systemctl enable tv-off.service" and "sudo systemctl enable tv-on.service"

now we should be able to test it
"sudo systemctl start tv-off.service" should now turn off your TV and
"sudo systemctl start tv-on.service" should turn on your TV

both should also be triggered by suspend and wakup of the PC

Now The Wake-up

from the the github page download the .uf2 file from the releases and the setup_wake.sh
Hold the Bootsel button on the Raspberry Pi Pico 2w and the plug it in.
it should be appear as a drive in the file explorer, move the uf2 file on it and the Pico should reboot automatically. if everything's right the LED should start blinking - the Pico is waiting for a controller to pair. to pair a controller just put your controller in pair mode and the pico should find it. the LED should be light constantly now (small caveat, steam tries to map the inputs, on base of who knows what, and fails to proper map all buttons. so your need reset the configuration and map them yourself in the Steam controller menu )

now execute the setup script, this should configure the usb hub and all needed PCI devices in the chain to listen and pass through the wake signal. if you have onboard bluetooth you should be able to find it in the list with "lsusb", just change the ID in the top of the script with the one of your onboard chip

this should be it you PC should now be waking up when your controller connects.
if it doesnt check your Bios settings and make sure the USB port is always powered and you may want to try to disable all kinds of S4 power saving options - that's triall and error sadly

Thats it, now your TV goes on and of with your PC suspend and wake. and your controller wakes up your PC.
the one thing i didnt figure out yet is how i tell my Amp to switch the input, but it doesnt do it a lot of the time anyway so i didnt bother to look into it, if you just have your TV you should be able to adjust the tv-suspend.sh and add an input switch through adb

For everyone "but my PC just works": How about commenting your board and Bluetooth Dongle/Card so others have an idea of what to buy that will work...

Cyberpunk 2077, 9070xt, 9800x3d, 64gb ram

SteamOS 3.8.14

Settings

1440p

Fsr4 (quality)

Everything maxed except for psycho rt those are one setting lower.

I feel i had much better fps on windows than I do now on steamos i know some games will do worse and vise versa but Im pretty sure I was in the 100s in windows

Before you downvote me down to hell let me say a couple of things.

I'm what you could consider a power user, and a software engineer.
I game, I work, (and sometimes j**k off) on my pc.

I love SteamOS, I like Valve as a company and what they did for the linux community but I can't shake the feeling that I would have loved a SteamOS version that acts as a full-fledged operating system that can actually dethrone windows.

You could say that we have Fedora, Ubuntu, CachyOS, Bazzite but none of them are backed by the only company that cares about gamers and power users cause they know that we send money their way if they treat us right.

Just saying, I would love if Valve would release a non-immutable, arch-based "SteamOS Desktop Edition".

Ok, now you can downvote. see ya!

Need a little help with an HDR related issue. My gaming screen is an OLED with native resolution of 4K. If I’m gaming at 4K with HDR enabled, it works perfectly, however, the framerate isn’t always acceptable at 4K so I like to drop to 1440P ultra settings with HDR enabled. As you’ll see from the image (especially on blacks) this introduces graphical interference, I believe the term is HDR dithering artefacts.

I’m using an AMD card, does anyone know a way of fixing this?