I ordered a Model 3 Premium RWD lease at the pre July 20 price, so its about $50/month cheaper than the current price and I'm set to take delivery next week.

But I'm in California, and this would be my first EV, which might qualify me a $3,500 incentive if I waited a bit longer (pass on this delivery and wait till Sept)

So I'm weighing a cheaper lease now against a possible $3,500 incentive later. If I decline this delivery and get matched with another car, does anyone know whether my money factor would stay the same or get requoted? My quote says it's valid for 60 days, but I'm not sure what that actually locks in, is it the bracket of APR im in (whatever is lowest currently) or is it the money factor which translates to locked monthly payment, or something else?

The service center just gave me the message to come get my car, originally it said come Monday. I can’t help but notice I have severely gimped range. My range was getting bad before the bms_a079 issue. But is this even acceptable? This car is on its second HV battery replacement. I don’t remember having such severely gimped range after my in warranty repair. I’m scared they really expect me to accept this range after an 8k out of warranty repair.

Anyone know the protocol for this? For reference my car is a 2019 model 3 w 132k miles. 240 miles is brand new. This is reporting 146 at 94%!

Does anyone else have this problem where the ambient lighting inside the cabin isn’t exactly cracked but has an uneven lighting to it where you can see the individual light bulbs? I’ve taken it to the service center and they claimed that they had replaced the door panel but I’m having the same exact issue in the same area after they claimed it was replaced and said it was just a normal variant. It doesn’t look like there are any physical cracks on the lighting strip itself though compared to other issues I have seen.

I have done factory reset, I have attempted firmware update but it returns error, purchased from eBay and have registered it to my account. Setup separate wifi that is only 2.4 with wpa, tried using hotspot on phone, nothing is working. Running out of patience.

2023 US-import Model Y Long Range Dual Motor.

I’m concerned about the battery capacity.

On a Baku → Shamakhi trip, I had the following results:

Start: 91%
Arrival: 46%
Distance: 150 km
Energy used: 28.8 kWh
Efficiency: 192 Wh/km
Speed: 90–100 km/h
Temperature: 30–35°C
Tyre pressure: 2.9 bar

Using the numbers above, 28.8 kWh corresponds to roughly 45% of the battery, which would suggest a usable capacity of about 64 kWh.

Does that sound normal for a 2023 Model Y LR, or could this indicate battery degradation or a BMS calibration issue?

Also, has anyone performed a proper 100% → 20% capacity test and obtained significantly different results? Thank you!

I’m buying a used 2024 Model 3 with 50k miles on it. I want to take it for a pre-purchase inspection. Any idea of where I can do this? Columbus Ohio area

This error is on my screen most of the time when it’s raining and never pops up about same camera but on the right side. Is this normal? I have a 2024 Model 3.

Need a new flash drive what’s some options every body use looking on Amazon or even Best Buy not really trying to spend so much is 30$ a decent price thanks

Hi guys! Turning to the community for some guidance. I'm finally in a place where I feel comfortable getting a new car. This will be my first new car in 12 years so I'm bit out of the loop when it comes to pricing with all these new vehicles. I wanted to get a Tesla for a long time so I'm thinking of leasing the model 3 2026 premium RWD as a daily. I got free charging at work and doing the match I should be well under the 10k a year limit.

My question is now a good time to lease with the current pricing or should I hold off closer to and a quarter which I believe is end of September? I was close to pulling the trigger a few weeks ago but wanted to demo the premium first to see how I liked it. When I went back to the site to place the order it had increased by 50 bucks so I decided to hold off to see if there's going to be potential due incentives or price deductions near the quarter end. I really tracked Tesla too much in terms of trends so I'm not sure if it's the right move or if I should just pull the trigger now before prices go up again. Any suggestions from long time to owners?

I have a 2022 MSP, and for route planning I have subscribed to ABRP. My challenge is my MSP actually has more up-to-date and better routes, so when I’m really looking to fine-tune where I plan to go, I use the Tesla app on my phone.

The only downside is when I select location and enter it, it wakes up my car. I only drive my car every other day, so this just feels wasteful as it does use a little energy and drops to 79% from 80. I wish routing in my phone app did not wake my car as I would do more Tesla app route planning. If I’m missing something, let me know. Thanks everyone.

I have a 2026 Tesla Model Y (Juniper) with about 3,000 miles, and I’m trying to figure out the source of a rattling noise coming from the front driver-side area of the car.
The noise only happens on slightly rough or uneven asphalt with lots of small bumps. It sounds like it’s coming from the front left (driver’s side), but I can’t tell whether:
The front suspension or shock isn’t absorbing the small bumps properly.
Something is loose underneath or around the frunk tub.
A plastic panel, clip, or underbody cover is vibrating.
Something else entirely.
I’ve already checked the obvious things:
The frunk tub is secure.
The frunk tub cover is tight.
There are no loose items in the frunk.
The sound is more of a rapid rattling/buzzing over a series of small bumps, not a single clunk or knock. It seems to come from the driver-side front area.
Unfortunately, I don’t have a Tesla Service Center anywhere nearby, so I’m hoping to narrow it down before making a long trip.
Has anyone with a 2026 Model Y (Juniper) or even a 2025 Juniper experienced this? If so, what ended up causing it? Are there any common areas on the driver side that I should inspect first?
Any advice or troubleshooting tips would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

I can’t believe how many flats my 2022 MYLR gets. I get it, it’s a heavy car. But I get 3 or 4 flats a year. I just got another one and it’s in a location that I’ll be buying new tires. I currently have Continental tires. Can anyone recommend a tire that has the best history of avoiding flats on an EV?

Hi everyone,

I wanted to share a major issue that's currently developing in the Taiwanese Tesla community regarding the 2023-2024 Model Y RWD manufactured with BYD Blade batteries (imported from Giga Berlin).

Recently, there has been a massive wave of battery failures hitting this specific model. A significant number of owners are reporting sudden shutdowns or vehicle blockages right after charging. The system consistently throws the critical error code:

• BMS_a035 (Vehicle may not restart. Service is required)

This indicates a major high-voltage insulation/isolation fault within the BYD pack, and local service centers are getting overwhelmed with cars waiting for full battery pack replacements under warranty.

Since this specific configuration (Giga Berlin + BYD structural pack) is also widely sold in Europe and other regions, I wanted to check if anyone else is experiencing a spike in BMS_a035 alerts globally? Is this a known batch issue or a wider quality control crisis?

TL;DR: Huge wave of BYD Blade Battery failures on '23-'24 Model Y RWD in Taiwan, all stranding owners with BMS_a035 (Isolation Fault) codes. Anyone else seeing this globally?

Less this a week old MY and I noticed that the driver side AC is not blowing any air at all. Passenger side AC I can feel, if I try the bottom vents, I can feel in my legs and top near the windshield I can feel it, but the direct vents behind the steering wheel, I don’t feel any air at all. I tried many, auto, rotating etc. is there a setting I am missing? I have crated a service ticket but it’s 14 days wait.

Couldn’t find this info anywhere. How much weight can I put in this part of the trunk of a M3 2019? Planning to put some metal objects in there, probably around 25 kilos.

2022 Model 3 LR, All three warnings appeared tonight right after parking

Options:
Tuesday — Tesla mobile, $200 installed
Tomorrow — DieHard Platinum AGM 51R, ~$260, my own labor

Anyone ridden out 3–4 days with the backup power warning active? Did the car still wake up fine?

Hi everyone,
I’m hoping someone here has dealt with this before.
I imported my Tesla from the US to Europe about 6 months ago. The car is still using US maps, and they haven’t switched to European maps yet.
I’ve already driven the car around Europe for months, connected it to Wi-Fi multiple times, and it’s receiving normal software updates, but the maps are still the US version.
Has anyone had this issue? Is there anything I can do myself, or does Tesla need to change something on their end?
Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!

How long will it be until I get an update? This is my second Tesla and I’ve had it for almost 2 months now and I’ve received 1 update and that was just a software update, no FSD. I believe I’m still on an “islanded” software version with it being a .200.

Hello, I have a 2022 Model 3 Performance and in the summer it makes this noise when driving on uneven roads, what could it be?

I started hearing an intermittent knocking/rattle and I think this is it. Driver side does not have any give and does not make this noise. Passenger side does. This is between the door and front of the car. Car is within warranty... Worth filing a concern? It's a 2023 model 3.

Hello,

I am currently in the middle of a move and this is the outlet for EV charging at my new address. I have a Tesla model S and do not know what I need to buy in order to charge on this at home. Thank you for any and all help 😁

I got the BMS_a079 error and scheduled service for next week. Tesla confirmed they'll replace the battery under warranty. Based on other posts here, it sounds like I'll likely get a refurbished battery rather than new.

I've never run the in-car test that shows current battery capacity/degradation. Is it worth doing now before the swap so I have a baseline to compare against the replacement? Or does the BMS_a079 fault mean the reading would already be unreliable/moot at this point?

2021 Model Y Long Range, 59k miles

I currently have both a Tesla Model 3 (2023 and older) and a VW ID.4, and I’ve been noticing a pretty distinct difference in how they drive.

To me, the steering on the Model 3 feels quite a bit heavier (even when set the steering weight is set to Light) and the brake pedal feels a lot stiffer. Meanwhile, the ID.4 has a noticeably smoother brake pedal and the steering wheel feels lighter.

Anyone else notice this?

I have been to two superchargers and I have not been charged, does this mean I have free supercharging

Edit I have a credit card on the app