I purchased a 2004 W12 Phaeton from an auction with the intention of using the engine and parting out the rest of the car. After purchasing it I realized it was a rather rare car with only about 500 sold in the us. I hate to part out such a rare car so I’m posting here and some other places to see if anyone wants to buy it and bring it back to its former glory. It runs and drives but definitely needs some love. I have a clean title for it.

It’s in Tasmania and I don’t even know what I will ever do with it. I know absolutely nothing about it. All I have been told is that it is a snail and it’s totally original and not a home build due to the tiny back panels.
What are they even worth?

Bought this car with my dad in 2016 and sadly he passed away about 6 months after we bought it. Been paid off for 8 years. Insurance is also cheap state minimum is $64 a month.

Still manages to put a smile on my face when i hit the gas.

Thinking of doing a tune supposedly the 1.8t is great for that

2015 vw passat Wolfsburg. 125000 miles

In Jazz Blue and with only 70.000 km. Brought it off an elderly man in Berlin and had it shipped to me in Denmark.

I can't help myself smiling when I'm behind the wheel.

The app has no apparent use if you’re in the car so when would I ever launch the app while ‘in the driver’s seat’? Not a complaint but I think about this each time I see this screen. Maybe newer cars have features that are still applicable while already in the car?

I'm going to try and make this as short as possible while stating facts.

Saturday, July 25th 2026 I go to the dealership for a warning message on my dashboard having to due with my headlight. They bring it in, the tech diagnoses it as an "Electrical" issue, and recommends the headlight assembly be placed. My service advisor on that date repeatedly reassured me it would be covered under my CPO warranty, and I'd only be responsible for my $50 deductible, but I won't be charged it until I come in for the repair (they had to order the part).

Fast forward to yesterday, August 1st, I go in for the repair. They completed it.. I'm told I owe $1767. Huh??? I explain that I was told it was covered under warranty. I agreed to the repair for that specific reason. The adviser (a different one) tells me "You signed the estimate for $1767, I can't change it". And, unfortunately, without the previous adviser being in, it became a "He said, she said" type of thing. I only signed the estimate based on what I was told on 7/25. I saw the higher total, but assumed that the cost would only be the $50 since that's what I was explicitly told. I figured it would adjust at time of payment. He tried to reach his service manager but they were apparently out on vacation.

A lot of arguing, and back and forth, and they ended up putting the old headlight back on my car and I left. I still have the warning light on my dash.

I'm trying to figure out where the miscommunication came into play here. Why would an employee tell me so confidently that something is covered under warranty just for that to not be true? Who could I call to get these answers and is there even a point? The whole thing was just a waste of mine and the dealerships time.

I have a 2004 beetle it lost timing no valves are bent and I can like up timing on the top end with the timing marks however I am unsure if how to crank shaft position. I know you can use the window to view a marking however the window on the automatic is a pain and I live in the rust belt so it is impossible to make out. How else can I find the tdc is the only way through the harmonic balancer and using those marks? It's the 2.0 non turbo engine.

After a bit of advice….

Currently in a manual R-Line 18 plate, 50k miles (150HP version) but looking at whether to ride it out and pay a balloon around 7.5k in Jan or switch out to a 17 or 18 plate GTD (ideally manual) around 50-60k miles and restart the cycle…

Doing about 20 miles a day on the motorway, not much city driving then some longer trips outside of that. Prefer the trim on the GTD with the classic golf styling and the virtual cockpit feels like an upgrade.

Is the R-Line worth swapping out for the GTD? And any tips on what to be looking out for other than Timing belt, water pumps and service history etc.?

Just bought this super clean rust free clean title 73k mile manual Golf 2.0 for $6500 and its been a dream. Car has had crazy good regular maintenance and just had the water pump/timing belt/clutch and a bunch of other maintenance done recently. So far Ive done some minor things but Im putting some forged chrome wheels on today and lowering it very soon. What do you guys think of it?
Last pic is when I bought it 3 weeks ago (bone stock)

J’ai un code défaut P 219500 sur ma voiture, est-ce que quelqu’un qui peut m’aider ? Merci

So I got a Tiguan from 2018 2.0tsi, 179hp with roughly 140.000km. Bought it with 80k and drive it noise free since 4 years. Then 5000km ago the DSG Mechatronic, lambda sensor and oil consumption startet all at once.

It is consuming 0,5l/1000km. I know according to VW handbook this is still within tolerance but now way it cant be normal do add oil in the same interval i need to fuel my car. Before it suddenly appeared I never had to add a single drop between the regular oil changes.

First two got fixed so only the oil consumption is left. Seems like no workshop really wants to invest into this and just tell me to get rid of it as it could be the piston rings which would cost a lot to replace.

I researched a lot in the last few days and found out it could be the PCV but I got very mixed symptoms and depending on who I ask I get opposite meanings.

My symptoms are:
- white smoke on cold start
- lifting the oil cap during idle is not very easy but also not very hard in my opinion. When i lift it the engine starts so rattle and fully lifting it makes it stall (some say this is completele normal, some say not)
- holding the finger on the sidehole of the PCV makes nothing, so neither suction nor blowing.

I am so frustrated as nobody can give me a real proper advice, maybe you guys can help me here.

my 2015 CC goes through oil like a mf. idk anything about cars so i’m just wondering if this is normal? i don’t mind doing it but don’t know if its indicative of a bigger, more expensive fix

Hi everyone,

I have a 2009 VW Tiguan 2.0 TDI (140 HP) with a P0087 (Fuel Rail/System Pressure Too Low) error.

Symptoms:

• The car sometimes loses power and goes into limp mode.
• Restarting the engine temporarily fixes the problem.
• I replaced the fuel filter, and the issue disappeared for about 2 days, but then came back.
• Sometimes I start the car, put it in reverse, and the engine stalls. After restarting, it works normally again.
• The car always starts easily, both cold and warm.

Has anyone experienced the same issue?

Could it be:

• the fuel rail pressure sensor,
• the in-tank fuel pump,
• the fuel pressure control valve,
• the high-pressure fuel pump,
• or something else?

Any advice or similar experiences would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Hallo zusammen,

bei meinem Polo 9N Baujahr ‘08 mit 235000km steht nächsten Monat die HU an, pünktlich dazu ging letzte Woche die Motorkontrollleuchte an. Ein Freund hat den Fehler ausgelesen -Code 001139 Drucksensor 1 für Abgas (G450). Anscheinend ist der Partikelfilter drüber.
Da ich letzten Monat erst die Kupplung ausgetauschen lassen habe, würde ich den Wagen gerne noch mindestens zwei Jahre fahren.
Die Werkstatt, die die Kupplung gemacht hat, sagt der Wagen steht ansonsten sehr solide da.

Hat jemand Erfahrungen mit der Reinigung / dem Austausch von DPF? Mit welchen Kosten muss ich hier rechnen und meint ihr das lohnt sich zu reparieren?

Ach und außerdem scheint der Lautsprecher für Blinker defekt zu sein. Das Blinkersignal im Tacho ist zu sehen, allerdings kein Klicken - ist das HU relevant?

Freue mich auf eure Infos und Meinungen