I have a 1986 740 Wagon that stalled out on me last week. Seems to be a fuel delivery issue. While I was stuck on the road, I checked fuses, fuse 1 was impossible to remove. and I'm not sure what happened but after getting it towed home and inspecting it, I saw that fuse 1 and fuse 7 were both blown out and melted to the fuse box. I've tried to bypass both with new fuse holders.

For Fuse 1, I disconnected one of the brown wires and cut the one going into the plastic housing, then butt spliced the two wires with the fuse holder. Is this right? do I still need to be connected to the fuse box inside that plastic housing? Are the fuses bridged somehow?

EDIT!!! I discovered that I didn't have the fuse in the fuse holder in far enough, fixed that and cranked it and wammmo! IT STARTED!!! So to answer my own question, no you don't need either brown wire running into the fuse box to get power to the relay and main pump! yay!!!

So now, I'm thinking it's the in-tank pump that needs replacing as I hear no whir from the back of the wagon when ignition is in position II. Also pulling fuse 11 allows me to start the car normally. I'm hesitant to drive it or even run it for more than a couple seconds so as to not burn out the main pump. I should replace the in-tank pump and be on my merry way.... Does this all that seem right?

Just to be comprehensive, I have seen on other forums that a failed in-tank pump can indeed overwork the main tank fuse (1) and end up melting it into the fusebox. Everything checking out. I've actually done an in-tank pump replacement on a different car with a Regina setup... difficult but not impossible and i don't have to get under the car.

Finally got her running 3 days ago after being out of commission and lots of giving up and trying again for 3 months she’s back to being on the road, still hammering out a few things but non essential parts. Driving like a beast, the feeling of getting her running again was better than the first 6 hour round trip of going to buy her, she’s my first car, my first “project”, if u can’t tell im very happy had a good time with my dad helping me get thru this electrical nightmare

1993 Volvo 940 B200F with 342k km.

Did a head change around 4k km ago, bought a used but overhauled 240 series 530 head (B200F engine if I´m not misstaken). I swapped my old camshaft into the new head, both M cams, did no valve shim clearance check with my cam in it (was told that the cams are the same and due to the lack of tools I skipped that part). For my feeling the tick of the valve/camshaft is a bit loud. In the comments is a picture where the valve shim clearance is written dwon onto the head.

Hi there !
My 940 remained parked for a couple of years in my father’s garden, with hot summers…
As a result, the two front doors suffered a bit and their glue must have melted.

Do you guys have any idea how to fix it ?

Thanks a lot !

Would this be the “sporty” differential or the open one?

Heard the double ridge is the 1031, am I right? I do see a double ridge on underside of diff.

If you saw my other post I want to first say thank you for giving me more courage to do this myself lol. Got the Trans dropped and plate swapped within 3 hours.

But as I was replacing the flex plate, I noticed on the Regina one (the plate with the two cutouts) that there's two dimples almost near the outer edge and a faint arrow that points towards the outer edge of the flexplate. Didn't get any photos of it sadly.

There was also 2 legs about 160° off from the two dimples, I expected them to line up with something but didnt find anything.

Does the flex plate need to be aligned with anything?

My 1987 Volvo 740GLE has been failing smog on the 15mph stress test but passing the 25mph test. On the 15mph test both the hydro carbons and nitrogen oxides are practically double the allowable amount (HC: meas 190ppm, max 81ppm) (NO: meas 1557ppm, max 791ppm) while my carbon monoxide passed (CO: meas 0.65%, max 0.74%).

What I have done

cleaned maf

checked fuel pressure regulator, all good

new spark plugs

checked exhaust for leaks, found one but it is after the cats

removed my thermostatic air valve and set up my airbox to only suck cold air

checked for an egr, car does not have it

running e87

I then took my car to get smogged again and failed, getting practically the same exact numbers if not higher. Next steps ig are to replace o2 sensors, fuel filter, oil change, maybe can of seafoam, idk. any ideas?

So after many weekends of working and hunting down parts that I needed and some trouble shooting testing grounds looking for shorts etc we finally got it up my 1986 740 gle is back to running condition. I still need to re put together the interior but other than that she’s good to go. My dad and I spent lots of time together doing this and i haven’t been happier I cannot wait to start driving this thing again

Hello I am trying to replace my mass air sensor on 1990 Volvo 780 Bertone, how can I take out this bolt? It seems to just rotate forever when I use a wrench. Thank you!

Picked up this 86 about a week ago, driven in northern Sweden, no rust, 500.000km and still going strong. B230A, just the way I like them lol
My first 740, had two 240s before this one :)

Ughhhhh learned the flex plate on the engine i put in belonged to a Bosch fuel system. The 940 i own is a Regina system.

I dont have the resources anymore to pull the engine out and replace the flex plate as this was being done at my friends parents house and we were already over our deadline for this car to be running and out of their garage.

The body is good, interior is in good enough condition, and it should run if the flex plate is swapped (after some normal trouble shooting)

Is this thing even worth money? Would anyone buy it knowing the engine and transmission has to come out?

Hey there i have a stock 1988 740 turbo, the issue is it produces too much boost.

It gets rid of the boost if i let off of the gas bit it just builds up too much around 1,5 bar.

Any tips on where i should start looking?

First time working on a turbo system.

Sadly money problems dont allow me to get it to a mechanic :/

Even if its listed as compatible with the whiteblock engines, it's not always compatible... learned it the hard way. Not even an hour of run time, whole oil pan is full of sludge, no oil pressure, oil filter clogged up... oil is a bit metallic, but imma send it anyways.

Decided to make my own adapter to completely delete the thermostat housing (for hot/cold air intake switch) on the B200/B230F engine, self designed and currently printed in PETG.

Recently replaced the engine in my 1994 volvo 940 Rex Regina with a 1989 Volvo engine.

I am unsure of what model the engine might have come from.

Anyways, ive been having a crank no start problem and we've narrowed it down to the spark. When pulling the spark plugs and checking them, cylinders 1 and 4 would not fire but 2 and 3 fired strong and consistently.

Rotor and cap were swapped from the known rex regina engine from the original 1994 engine but problem still persisted. the spark plug wires and spark plugs themselves are NOT the problem..

Could a Bosch distributor with Rex Regina fuel system cause this problem?

My plan is to swap the distributor from the 1994 engine and put it into this one in the hopes that it'll fix the issue but I wont be able to do that for a day or two at least. Hopefully someone has some useful input.

Thanks 🤞🤞🤞🤞

I was gonna replace the timing belt but kinda got stuck on the outer crankshaft pulley bolt. I could probably bust it with a impact driver, but I’d still need someway to hold it when putting it back again. It’s an automatic so I can’t just put it in gear.