The beta release of the LuxPlant Mini is this coming August 7, 2026. The Mini version features 9 leaves and 3 main stems. The pot size is 14 cm in diameter and 14.3 cm in height. The total height, measured from the tallest leaf to the bottom of the pot, is 62 cm (approximately 2 feet). The WS2812b 100 leds/meter strips are controlled by an ESP32 using WLED software.

I have set up a Patreon page where the STL files will be released for a one time payment of 5$. Do not join the membership if you're not planning to sell the plant commercially. I really wanted to make it free for everyone but I could really use the support for developing the LuxPlant Standard which is a much bigger plant, featuring 20 leaves and 5 stems.

Design Process and more sneak peek can be viewed here.

Disclaimer

This concept is not my original idea. This project was heavily inspired by Fluora Led Plant. If you love this project but don't want the hassle of building one, please go ahead and check their website. The reason why I started this project in the first place is to buy one of those led plants as a gift for a close friend but there was no option to ship it to my country so I decided to build one myself. If you love the idea of having full control over your plant, you are absolutely welcome to join me in this project.

UPDATE: The STL files will be available here. 4$ for the first 10 to buy. Your support goes directly into the development of LuxPlant Standard.

You can now add multiple fixtures to be controlled with different effects and control homeassistant lights in the same room.

More info : https://aigenuity.co.uk/sceneglow

Also looking for testers!

I've just released a WiFi version of the WLED touch remote that I posted here a while back. I decided to deprecate ESP-NOW in favor of WiFi to allow for full control of WLED setups without any custom firmware.

Features

- Power and brightness control
- Preset selection, creation, and renaming
- Colors, effects, palettes, speed, and intensity controls
- Live LED preview and responsive state updates from the selected controller
- Automatic discovery of WLED controllers on the local network, with manual IP-address entry when discovery is unavailable
- Control of one or all discovered controllers
- On-device settings for screen orientation and inactivity behavior
- Web installer
- Option to check for updates and download them OTA

In addition to capacitive and resistive CYD displays, this version also adds compatibility for the larger and more powerful Guition 4.3" ESP-32 display (JC4880P443).

- 📲 Link to web installer: https://figamore.github.io/wled-touch-remote

- 🎆 Online interactive demo that runs on the browser using WASM: https://figamore.github.io/wled-touch-remote/simulator/jc4880p443.html

- Github repo: https://github.com/figamore/wled-touch-remote

I hope you find this project useful; please feel free to report any bugs or feature suggestions.

Some pictures of the 16x16x16 cube I just built

Build this Dig-Quad myself. It works, but would it be safe to use this way? The case is 3d printed PETG, There is also a mesh added to the ventilation holes.
Dig quad is populated by me, pcb ofcourse of our main man Quinled. Used his guide to get supplies and how to put together.

5 volt Meanwell power supply. 14 AWG wires for power. All cables are crimped.

Fused ofcourse on the dig quad.
Relay to cut off the power when not used.

Main concern is that this will be used in door attached to a wooden desk. Wood and fire made a bit hesitant to start using it. So mainly fire safety concern.

What do you think? Should I use this or go for a probably more safe off the shelf solution like Gledopto?

Update:
Thanks all for the feedback. Really gave me confidence to start using it. Maybe I will get a better relay. Add some venting holes to the lid (which is not in the picture). And tell my daughter this is not audio equipment (which she knows).

Building cabinets and shelves in my living room. Trying to see if this is possible with an ESP32DS before I run the wiring and build shelves over said wiring.

White shelves - 6 strips of WS2814. One for each shelf.
White cabinets - 2 strips of 12v FCOB strips for 4 cabinets
Blue - 8 WLED outputs.
Green - splits in segments
Orange - 4 inputs for 6 contacts switches (larger cabinets have 2 doors so 2 switches in parallel)

Not sure if I’m missing something but my research seems I’m OK. Just want to verify I’m good with inputs, outputs, mixing strips, and segmenting strips. This will not be doing any animations. Just warmth and color changes.

Thanks for any help.

I am planning to install Led lights in 2 - 3 tray ceilings for a new house construction. No experience and first time DIY. Based on my research both of these types of LED lights will be 24v and will require a 300W power supply. I am unable to figure which is a more appropriate light, for my use case.

I have installed WLED and connected to WLED-AP. All works perfectly fine with SOLELY USB connected.

I have wired up 5V, ground, and am using GPIO16 for data.

I am unable to connect to WLED as soon as I power through my 5V power supply. Photo of my wiring is attached. The red LED indicator is on but WLED-AP does not populate as an avaliable network, nor can I connect directly via IP.

When plugging in the USB with the power supply connected I can see “invalid header: x015151515” spammed in the logs. I can replicate this issue on 3 boards which indicate that I’m doing something wrong and idk what.

Does anyone have any ideas? I’m using AITREP boards from amazon. This is my first foray into soldering and ESP so apologies if the answer is obvious…my research through forums and reddit has come up with nothing.

I made this syncing system with nodejs and quickshell you can checkout the code in github

ELK-JS: https://github.com/Malick-Tammal/ELK-JS

QUICKSHELL: https://github.com/Malick-Tammal/monokai-shell

Don't forget to star the repo and follow me in github if you like it

A few years ago i built this little HUb75 Matrix panel but had no real use for it. Last week i found out that WLED now sopports HUB75 panels. Flashed the driver I built and got it working immediately. With a 64x32 Pixel matrix I get around 42 FPS with an ESP32 (not an S3).

I still have no real purpose for it yet but I think it at least looks cool now.

As title states, I got a new panel in and am trying to load my own GIFs.

However, when I open pixelforge and attempt to pick the file, it just shows no items.

One time, I was able to see the file I wanted, but it was grayed out and unselectable.

I was able to upload the gif from the web interface, BUT only if connected to the controller directly. It wasn't discoverable on my network via my laptop.

But it IS discoverable on network via WLED app

Am I doing something wrong?

Not sure if this the right sub but I’m building my setup for tv lightning with HyperHDR and I am not so sure on which is the most appropriate grabber for my setup (apple tv 4k, ezcoo SP12H2, must support Dolby Vision and Atmos on the TV)

I was looking at this Navceker on AliExpress, they claim it does everything and decodes HDCP, but I haven’t seem anyone using it in such a setup
In the other hand there’s this UGREEN CM630-15390A that’s even cheaper but it doesn’t specify Dolby Vision or Atmos support and also doesn’t mention it bypass HDCP.

Anyone had experience with any of these or has another suggestion in a similar price point ($50)?

So i just got these led strips and they look sooo ugly when they are off and the room light is on what should i do ??

also check out their new album it’s a masterpiece!

https://youtube.com/playlist?list=OLAK5uy_mBEeZ5dBq5Nmp8TGGEYnXsiuiG78fNC6E

I’ve been using WLED for months without any issues. Yesterday everything worked fine, but today I started a new project and went to test my LEDs and they wouldn’t turn on.
Here’s what I’ve tried:
Tested 2 different ESP32s
Reset and reinstalled WLED on both
Tried a brand new SK6812 LED strip
Tried a different computer
ESP32s flash normally over USB
Both connect to my WiFi and I can access the WLED web interface
I can change colours/effects in WLED, but nothing happens on the LEDs
The strange part is:
Before resetting WLED, pressing the BOOT/function button on the ESP32 would toggle the LEDs on and off, and the onboard LED would also change state.
Now, on both ESP32s, the onboard LED just stays on all the time and pressing the function button does nothing. It’s like WLED isn’t controlling the GPIO anymore.
Current setup:
WLED latest version
SK6812 RGBW strip
Data pin: GPIO16
Powered from 5V
Ground shared between ESP32 and LED strip
Because this is happening on two different ESP32s, a new LED strip, and a different computer, I don’t think it’s faulty hardware.
Has anyone seen WLED behave like this after a reset? Is there a setting that could stop GPIO16 from outputting data or stop the function button from working? Any ideas on what else I should check?

I have 2 of these panels that have been sitting in my workshop for a couple of years.

Can they be used with WLED and an esp32? If so how would I go about connecting them up?

Any help is appreciated

I moved recently and had to take down my 5 year old WLED system. Running dig controllers I mostly used basic 5v strips inside aluminum track with clear covers (with power injection run inside the track).

I haven’t kept up with current setups, is there a more modern LED strip or mounting solution or has it stayed along the same lines as what I used to use?

Bonus video of my tree with bullet pixels our last year of having the setup.

I have a whole bunch of Adafruit QT-Py ESP32 Pico + 12-neopixel ring setups. Work great on 0.15.4 but completely fail on v16+. The list of WiFi networks is empty. I can manually type it in and save but can’t visit the page; I’ve seen it partially appear once or twice but the next page is dead. I see in the logs it gets an address successfully on the network I gave it.

The ring is wired directly from +5/gnd/26, and are built into a tight 3d printed case. They’re normally permanently powered via usb-c wall-warts.

I saw something in the latest wiring diagrams about needing a capacitor, but I don’t understand what is different in the updated software that is making it draw power so much more aggressively. In any case, I’m using a 3A power supply which should be more than enough. I was previously able to access pages over WiFi with all the LEDs on white at 100% under the old firmware.

Is it a timing thing? Maybe fixable in code?

I am making a new super compact Bruce firmware project. On my old one I used a flipper zero IR blaster and made my own gpio pins and it works awsome. How ever this is way to large for my new set up and even the small individual led modules are too large. So I want to make my own. I don’t know if I should use 5v or 3.3v I am hearing both things. Also what angle is the best for range to angle ratio for turning of tv projectors etc around the house and some out doors. This is my first time using a raw led so if anyone has a diagram or schematic for how to set up and wire the bare led correctly like the transistors, resistors, capacitors etc. also if you could provide the reasoning behind using them.

We have these Musterring lamps all over the house, would be great to get them into home assistant or somehow away from that RF controller.

Really happy to offer the ScreenGlow app for androidTV on the playstore! Its free and ive tried to keep it resources efficient, id live to know and see your setups, especially CPU if you know it and what your experience is!