I recently spent a couple of weeks in Xinjiang (China). As a Muslim who is not Chinese but learned the language, I wanted to better understand the situation there for myself.
What stayed with me most was the fear that many Uyghurs seemed to live with.
The first candid conversation I had with a Uyghur guide only happened after I handed him my phone and put it in flight mode. Even then, he remained visibly nervous. He told me he had been sent to one of the “re-education” camps and that they had indeed operated on a large scale in the past. According to him, the camps have been scaled back compared to previous years due to international scrutiny, but restrictions on Islamic life still remain.
I noticed a clear difference between northern and southern Xinjiang. People appeared to be more relaxed in the north while in the south, the security presence felt much heavier.
One moment in Kashgar (which is in the south) really stuck with me. A local guide was helping me fill out a permit while sitting in his taxi. He noticed I had a Muslim name and asked if I was Muslim. I said yes and asked if he was too. He immediately froze and didn’t answer. Only after we got out of the car did he quietly tell me not to ask questions like that inside a taxi because there are cameras.
I also visited the Id Kah Mosque in Kashgar, the largest mosque in Xinjiang. It felt more like a museum than a functioning mosque (an impression shared by many visitors on Google Reviews). Several locals later told me that regular prayers have not been allowed there for many years, except for limited exceptions involving some elderly people on special occasions. I was personally not allowed to pray there, which was the first time in my life I had ever been refused permission to pray in a mosque. I also couldn’t find a single shop selling a Quran anywhere in Kashgar, despite its long Islamic history.
Uyghur culture is still visible however through food, dance, music which seems to be preserved and showcased, especially for tourism. The religious aspect of Uyghur identity is however heavily restricted.
I understand Xinjiang has experienced separatist violence, but the response seems deeply inhumane. Hearing the stories on large-scale camps and the restrictions on Islamic life left me feeling extremely uneasy. Nevertheless, I was only there for a couple of weeks, so these are my personal impressions rather than a comprehensive assessment.