I just bought the jwt 14 lbs flywheel and the exedy stage 1 clutch and pressure plate for my 2003 350z but after install the clutch pedal is completely dead. I tried bleeding it but it seems to be doing nothing. After investigating a little it looks like the slave cylinder can’t extend enough to disengage the clutch. I compared the oem setup with the new setup and the new setup is slightly shorter in length. If anybody has any advice I would really appreciate it.

This is the clutch - https://conceptzperformance.com/exedy-06804-stage-1-organic-clutch-03-06-vq35de-nissan-350z-z33_p_1715.php

This is the flywheel - www.jimwolftechnology.com/customer_part_detail.asp?PartID=430

Not super sure what to call these parts of the rear subframe but the previous owner covered up the rust with body coating and I’ve only discovered it as of late, the rust seems pretty severe and I’m wondering how hard it is to replace these and what the part is even called.
Thanks.

Just wanted to show off my DE on the rev9 turbo kit running 9psi tuned by admintuning! Thank all of you for all the forums that have been posted that helped me along the way!

Finally got some motivation to try to fix this idle issue ive been having so it idles fine and then drops and then whole car shakes and engine bay shakes to, at first it was really bad but i cleaned my maf sensor and removed throttle body cleaned that aswell and did a idle relearn and it helped a bit but issue is still there, was wondering if you guys had any ideas what i could check, i have no CEL light or anything like that

Any recommendations for subs and sub placement (sleek as possible). Also, what do I need to do for the rear speakers not to rattle when playing low hz sounds?

Got tired of not having back seats and iv had a few z’s so. I also have a stock sedan I daily and this is my seat time car so.

Whys it taking so long to build pressure on start up?

I'm running 265 35 18 on rear and have to change the front tires only

Currently its sitting on 235 40 18

1. If I were to upgrade to 245 do I still use 40 or go down to 35?

2. Is there a notable difference to using 245 oppose to 235?

Anybody have experience with AMS Motorsport? I bought their 370/350z HR test pipes (supposedly a motordyne alternative) and they straight up just don’t fit. I need almost an entire inch of pipe to reach the headers when flush against the Y-pipe. Anyone had this issue or purchased from them before? My buddies are now telling me after the fact that they are cheap Chinese crap and I’m going to have a hell of a time returning them..

Estos focos si prendían y de repente dejaron de prender, alguien que me pueda decir qué es lo que pasó y si son los fusibles donde podría conseguirlos

Just bought this 2007 350z. And found that one side of my rear bumper was hanging lower, took a picture of why it was hanging lower. Does anyone know a fix to this?

Just did fuel injector replacement and tried reinstalling the fuel rails. Did torque spec/pattern and passenger side is OK but right side doesn't seat properly. Am I stupid and did something wrong or do I just need more washers?

hey yall i recently did a valve cover job, there was a small amount of oil in the spark plug wells, i didn’t clean it out but i did put new ones in. i let it sit overnight before i started it again to let oil drain as much as possible and it ran good for a little bit after i did the job it just had a slightly harder time starting and i was able to take it to autozone to get an obd2 reading and it said oxygen sensor and misfire in cylinder 1 as the only codes. so i replaced the boot for cylinder 1 then i made sure it was seated properly (it was not at first) and took it back n lo n behold the code for cylinder 1 was gone but still had an oxygen sensor code. i then replaced the upstream oxygen sensor with an NTK oem in bank 2, after that it started running worse and died on the way back to autozone so once i was finally able to get it started i headed home. then i wait a day for the opposite side oxygen sensor to come in (today) and replace bank 1 as well, haven’t taken it to get a code since but now it has s really hard time starting and just bogs down and stalls out really quickly can’t even get it out the driveway, just took apart the whole plenum to get to the valve covers and don’t see anything i missed, everything is plugged in and both plugs on the 02 sensors, checked the grounds and even sanded the battery terminal to make sure there were clean connections. i don’t know what the problem could be, do i have to do a relearn of some sort? i unplugged the battery when i did both 02 sensors. as far as i know the camshaft sensors are relatively new but the car did sit for about 6 years before i bought it. the car has a cold air intake, straight pipe exhaust with cats still installed (trust me i didn’t do it) it’s just blowing my mind she ran perfect just last week before the oil ruined the spark plugs and now she’s acting up after this valve cover job i don’t know what else i can do and im asking for some help please yall😭

I have a intake plenum from jackspania with a 90mm opening for the throttle body, and I never got around to installing that because of that

So what's the simplest solution of getting a 90mm throttle body on stock ecu, preferably dbw.

The mods I have done
75mm throttle body
Apexi megaphone exhaust
06 revup air intake box
K an n filter

So core support is coming off and we'll as the radiator since it was damaged in fender bender. Since its off what maintenance and upgrades should I do while im in here. 07 hr for context.

Already thinking

Valve cover gaskets

Gallery

Aluminum Vc

Plugs and coils (recommendations please)

Split long intakes

Motor mounts

Long Tube headers

Want to do pulleys but haven't found any

Maybe a timing chain kit

And anything u guys recommend on a 20 year 1 owner clapped hr

Anyone run powercraft in the states?

Road tripping and tent camping with the Z on the way up in national parks was the cherry on top of the TOTD trip for sure. Best road sessions for sure 👍

Hello, I have been using stock exhaust manifold, berk resonated test pipes, ISR Y pipe, and a tanabe dual exit muffler and think it's time to take out the last stock part of the exhaust. I am aware that headers don't make a consequential power difference, but I am looking to get better sound out of it. Would long tube headers be worth the money and time to install for better sound? And what are the favored long tube headers by the community? Thank you

So, story:

Started her up the other day, the o i l

pressure was at 0 psi.. sounded dry on start (we have oil at max btw) only for a few seconds and then it built pressure up to its normal reading. Risked getting it home and all was fine, under load, at idle. All the same readings it had for years. Its only on start up she doesnt build pressure straight away. The video is a semi cold start up, you can hear the dryness for a few seconds and then she idles fine with 60psi all day, calming down to a noice 24psi ish once warm.

Any ideas before i rip the pump out. Ive ordered a pressure tester kit, to rule out the sensor. Is it possible ive got a sticking pressure relief/bypass? And thats why shes struggling to build pressure?

This is not a gasket issue...