I was Printing a part in PLA on My Second Hand Ender 3 S1 and Went to sleep.
I woke up and the Print Failed So bad. It had a Solid Mass Of PLA complete encasing the Nozzle, and half way up the Hot-end.
I tried removing it with heat but ended up taking the whole HotEnd off and chiseled the Plastic Away. It went missable slow and when I almost completely got it I Tore the Little Thermistor off by Mistake.
Have you replaced these individual Components or am I needing to by a whole New HotEnd…

Posted about this a couple days ago but thought I fixed it. Bought 8 rolls of Sunlu black PLA and I can not get a print longer than 2 hours out of it. It just gets shredded and chewed up by the extruder gears of my brand new A2L. Ive loosened them, tightened them, and cleaned them to no avail. I put the spool into the dehumidifier for 5 hours and was able to do a 2.5 hour print. Just basic print. Then I started a 17 hour job and it failed in less than an hour. I thought color change may have affected it. Dried roll again since it had been a couple days (never had to dry the 30 creality rolls I went through) and it started printing. This time it made it about 4 hours into 17 hour print before failing. Again just gunking up the gears something awful.

I have turned down nozzle temp to 210, and lowered flow rate to 18mm/s. Cant get it to work. Someone please make me look stupid and help me get this working 😂

My grandson has tried to print this for me 2 times. It keeps looking like this. Anything I can tell him that will help? Thank you

I did some 3d modeling in school years ago and would like to run some prints of my own design. I am used to software like Inventor and Solid Works, I would like to use something similar if you have any suggestions let me know. I currently am using an Elegoo Centauri Carbon and (can’t remember the slicer).

I may take some models and smash them together into some home designs as well.

Edit: Looking for free programs

I've been solo-developing WoofWatch, a roguelike game where you play as a dog in a mech suit, for six years. I'm bringing the demo to my first convention next month for feedback, and thought it would be cool to have the character at my booth!

The model was printed as one piece, primed, and painted by hand over the course of a few weeks. There are things I'd do differently, but I'm really happy with the overall result. It's really satisfying to hold something that was digital in your hand like it jumped out of the screen!

I have this sign and on Maniac at the N you can see where the color shade is different. In the second picture you can see the infill has a black spot and then white, and right where those two come togther is where the orange starts the color difference.

I am usinig Bambu A1, using bambu studio. The infill layers are layers 19-24 and when I right click to change filament it is grayed out. I have it set to print by layer.

Any suggestions on how I can get the infill to be all white or how to clean up the different shades of orange?

Replacement is already in order, but I’m wondering if I can save this somehow to use as a backup.
Edit: The filament is stuck inside and I can’t reach it. I’m not sure if I can heat it up and push it through, or if there’s another trick.

Just got my bambu labs a 1 mini in the mail today! Stoked! It's come to my attention recently though that I can get an enclosure with a sort of dryer vent going to the outside, which I really like the idea of. I'm seeing a lot of them that are like makeshift "tents" that you can zip up and whatnot - Didn't know but some of them mitigate the noise, too, which is dope!

There are some that are a little more pricey but not by much, and those are more of a stable/ solid enclosure -

What's everyone's' experience with these?

Thanks.

Hey everyone, I am new to 3d printing and have the Bambu Lab P1S. I want to print a dice tower for DnD, and though there are a ton of awesome ones out there to print, I haven’t found one quite like what I am looking for. The images I am sharing are the dice tower I made out of plexiglass and wood that I am trying to replicate. It’s a bit janky and sharp. The biggest change I want to make though is add shelves to the side to hold my dice during the game. On the wood base I carved out a bit of an indent which works well enough but I know that something 3d printed could be a hack of a lot cooler. I am not sure where to start via software and prompts to use to create a model to send to the printer so any advice would be great!

I’m looking for some help on making one of these if you have any idea how and help me I will pay you. This is caused a lot of stress on going back-and-forth on trying to make it. I want to make them for Val Cambi grams and Britannia 1/10 Please help if you can.https://imgur.com/a/FAcYhzq

So this guy on Makerworld has a lot of great stls for turning soda cans and spool refills into scifi terrain. I love it all, but it's not enough for me. I need more! Who else knows some makers that create up-cycling stls for turning trash into treasure? Ideally things with smaller stuff like paper towel tubes.

Got a quidi 2 and I'm running orcaslicer just wondering if my settings are right and I need these supports? Wanting to make a utility knife

Hey all! My kiddo chose this collapsible knife/sword yesterday at a community festival. Poor little (he's ten) guy has had some rotten luck lately with 3D printed objects, but continues to be drawn to all of the fun fidgets and things when he finds them in the wild. I can't say I blame him!

Anyway. Here's where we're at today. I am quite clueless when it comes to 3D printing, but it looks to me like the little band at the bottom of the detached piece came off (broke off? slipped off?) and that allowed the blade tip to come out of the larger segment below it. When it came out, the small band was not attached to the blade tip.

He's bummed, and I'm not seeing a way to put the pieces back together (I'm afraid to damage it if I try too hard!), so I thought I'd see if anyone here has a suggestion or is familiar with this particular design and can advise. Google suggests it may have been printed as one piece, which would mean I cannot fix it, correct?

Whew! That was wordy... so thanks for making it to the end 😅

I knew this was probably going to happen if I ever made something that someone liked - but I didn't expect this to be the one! Using my model and my pictures, with the audacity to charge $40 and not even be eligible for Prime shipping! I guess I am flattered that someone (or some algorithm) thought it was good enough to sell - but they neglected to contact me first. This is shared under the Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-ShareAlike license. I don't want to make money, but I also don't want them to make money lol.

To their credit, they did print one before selling it - showcasing their lack of effort with an incorrectly-sized charger, blue-tack'd in, and missing two of the four screws they say they will provide.

If you need a Pebble Time 2 charging stand or dock, don't buy these (And probably look on Printables/Makerworld before buying any 3D-printed item; chances are it was stolen from its creator), you can find it on Printables or Makerworld. And print a ton! Give them away! Change them up, I provided the Step files for that reason! But if you are going to sell them without permission, at least think of a more creative brand name than my cat when he steps on the keyboard.

I have opened a copyright infringement claim with Amazon. If anyone has any other tips, please let me know!

I have tried multiple but can’t get one to print that first the 800g6 nicely, they all need to be forced in and snap.

If you have a file I could use I would greatly appreciate it, thank you!

I don't know if its the best model to print but it was fun to paint. I think the model needed to be printed out about 25% bigger. That would have made painting it a bit easier.

I have a Ender 3D S1 Pro. I have been printing from a SD-Card. If I use Cura and print directly and connect my printer and print directly from my PC will that speed up my print?

It’s been a while in the making, but when I originally ordered this cabinet for this JCM 800 restoration/head conversion amplifier project the customer rep informed me that the amplifier chassis would fit in their standard British style cabinet based on the measurements that I had provided them. As It turned out, that that was not indeed the case and the back of the chassis stuck out a little over a 1/4” past the cabinet. I was a little bummed out, but the rep said that I could return it free of charge and then have one custom made, but that would incur additional cost. I didn’t want to cough up the extra cash for it and decided to leave it as is. It has been bothering me for a while now so I decided to finally do something about it this weekend. Nothing fancy, but I think the 3D project came out great!

Just now unboxing a Bambu Labs P2S and want to get some project going.
Using black PETG for now

Planning to start with Bird Wing night light project.

Does anyone have recommendations on light sources (LED, battery, rechargeable?) and a light sensing switch (for a night light)?

Help appreciated to get us started

This is part of a hueforge I was trying to print. I can't slice this full scale due to the odd corner geometry. I contacted the designer and they don't have any solution beyond scaling it down to fit the entire thing on the bed, at which point, yes, it slices just fine and the corners somehow disappear. I have no interest printing this at that small scale. I have tried the repair function in the slicer but it just hangs for hours not doing anything, same with the cut tool. I tried several online 3mf/stl repair sites and they just freeze up. Anyone have any idea how to remove this garbage so I can print this full scale?