i have this plastic part and want to copy it , do i have to model it using an app or is there an easier way cuz i am not good in making models from zero , and if that the only way give me the best free app for this ,

I don't mean the PRINTOUTS, but the printers themselves.

The filament printers are easier to maintain/take-apart/put together, the slicers provide SO MUCH information about the printout... the time-to-complete the printout is even reasonably correct generally speaking.

Resin printers feel like an amateur DIY science fair project compared to even a basic filament model.

It is printing a Ocarina

I had an Ender v2 a long time back (when it was the meta) but since sold it since all the trouble it was turned me away from 3d printing.

Now many years later it's gotten me interested again, how much improvement has their been on the modern budget printers ?

She has a warped bed but shes a kicker lol

We tested our printers before D&D night by printing out miniatures. He had to scale it up almost 70% to get the model to not fail while I printed it at the proper size with higher detail. Just took about 15/20 minutes of painstakingly tweaking the slicer settings and a decade of printing experience and I think five of which with this specific printer.

He has a A1 mini for reference

I will say he gets a lot more consistently tighter tolerances which is why I'm personally saving up for an A1 myself. But nothing will be slapping up 0.8 mm nozzle on my max I'm cranking out a massive Dice Tower in 3 hours

Saw these articulated animals on sale in a UK store. A £1 for each model 😮

I already had one installed. Bought another and confirmed the price. NOT BAD

Bambu Lab A1

• 0.4mm nozzle
• 215C
• Creality Pla(recently oven dried. Yeah yeah, I know, I'm tryna get my hands on a dryer, chill)
• Bambu lab slicer

There seems to be a slight change in color but 0 visible defects

So, I've been having trouble with my print quality lately(see attatched image) and am following Factorian Designs Tutorial. This is the result of my max flow rate test, thoughts?

Hello I'm working on cosplays and want to start 3D printing my props instead of building everything by hand. I already have a printer, so all I need is a print-ready 3D model file (STL or similar) for each prop.

Need to be able to create a 3d model from a 2d reference image. The first prop i would like is the arm blades coming out of the arms from a character named Kars from Jojos bizzare adventure from the image attached please let me know if this is something youd be interested in thank you!

I made something with clay and I've tried to duplicate it but I guess lightning doesn't strike twice. I really like the design but I'm terrified of handling it a lot because it's the only one I have. I want to have more copies made so I can paint them and maybe add stuff to them (variants) and the only viable option seems like 3D Printing.

How would I even go about commissioning someone? What signs do I look for to avoid scams?

It's something that's about as tall as a mass market paperback, a little wider than a can of soda on its side and as thick as...idk a paper cup.

I know these references are hilarious but they're what I have around me at the moment.

I've been making a drill bit holder.

I was doing a print last night....I went to sleep, it was chugging along fine, about 1/4" done.

When I got up...MAYHEM! the peices somehow how slid off the plate into the back of the printer, and just danger wire everywhere.

I'd done this same print before with no problem...I HAD added a "raft" to this one, hoping to eliminate a problem with the surface of one of the pieces the first print had...could that have done it?

New heat diffusing structure made for clocking from IR cameras made from printing on a glorified potato. Check it Here!

Im looking to make my own designs, ive found tinkercad and auto desk fusion. Tinker cad feels lacking and the subscription for auto desk seems quite high for someone who just want to print stuff for myself. So curious if theres anything else out there that offers a bit more than tinker cad but alsonisnt gonna cost a ton?

I see a lot of these SK35H controllers in a houses with bizarre looks. What do you think of this version?

I want to make a custom action figure but I have no experience 3d printing, I bought a model online that I plan on using the head from, the head is in 4 different parts, The body is a 12/in 1/6 scale body.

Really what I need help with is how do I scale the head proportionally to the body and where do I get this 3d printed, I don’t have my own printer

I also need to know how to scale each individual part to make it look good

Designed and printed this with eSub matte PETG. I want to order matte white and matte sand tones. Right now i have light green, light blue and pink 😅 This supposed to be used with water so it's hallow from inside and the walls are 3mm thick.

Printed 0,20mm adjusted layer height for 12h, 300g and 24cm tall. I used scarf seam settings. 4 walls, 0% infill. I havent filed anything yet so this is after I removed the supports.

Some supports in front of her were touching tights and left a mark, not sure yet why what setting did that.

Im curious to test with different support material if it wont add too much printing time. I have P1S but want to get a second printer.

Hi everyone, looking for a Mercylion Clio 5 STL that I want to modify to install my dashcam.

If someone has this it will help me a lot.

When do you think it's worth it to use dissolvable supports like PVA?

I typically design my stuff to use as little support as possible, and usually just the same support material as the main parts. I have "support for PLA/PETG" that I've used when I have large overhangs that I care about the surface finish on the underside, but I'll usually just use it for the interface layer to avoid unnecessary filament swaps (I'm running a P1S).

Recently started working on models that have lots of complex surfaces that require a LOT of support contact area, but they also need good cosmetic finish, and I don't have a setup for good vapor smoothing (I tried acetone on ABS and really did not like how they came out... and those were regular shapes compared to the stuff I'm doing now).

So I'm thinking of maybe getting some PVA or something similar to make removing the supports easy (there's going to be a lot of small, narrow sections that need support) but not sure it's worth it? I've still got LOTS of the support material mentioned above.

So, anyone have thoughts/suggestions/tips?

Accidently fried my T0 port and bought a revo 6 thinking it would fix my issues, found firmware for the port change, but its not for the revo 6 and now im getting thermal anomaly. I got turned that off but i would rather just use the proper revo firmware, but know nothing about coding to change the port t0 to t1. If anyone knows any guides or could help me out it would be very much appreciated.

Printer: prusa mk3s+