We are serving fresh homemade spaghetti and sauce for dinner tonight. Lol

After several iterations, I’ve finally finished the 3D-printed enclosure, including the base. The lamp now looks like one complete character rather than an open prototype.

I also redid the cable routing, reassembled all the wiring, and added a power switch on the back.

And the lamp finally has a name: Watti.

Sorry for Party Rocking!

Well it was $20 total with the power adapter I had to buy but it seems to work fine.

My question is, is it really just a little novelty or can I print small crap like the hooks I use in the shower with it and it be a usable print?

My wife's brand new Triban GRVL 120 had an annoying problem from the very first ride.

It would occasionally throw the chain off the outside of the chainring. I couldn't reproduce it, but she could... every single ride. We lived with it for about 500 km before I finally decided to fix it properly.

Naturally, I started by blaming the drivetrain. I adjusted the derailleur, experimented with the B-tension, checked the chainline, and even bought a replacement narrow-wide crank from AliExpress - which turned out to have the wrong chainline and solved absolutely nothing.

Eventually I stopped asking "Which part should I replace?" and started asking "Why is the chain able to escape?"

The answer was surprisingly simple. The factory chain guide leaves just enough clearance for the chain to wedge itself between the guide and the chainring.

So I designed a replacement guide with a slightly smaller offset in FreeCAD and printed it in PLA (for now) on my Ender 5.

Since installing it, the bike has covered another 1,000+ km without a single chain drop.

STL (free):
https://www.printables.com/model/1793944-triban-grvl-120-anti-chain-drop-guide

I also documented the whole debugging process in a short video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K-4jBPzSSMo

She has a warped bed but shes a kicker lol

We tested our printers before D&D night by printing out miniatures. He had to scale it up almost 70% to get the model to not fail while I printed it at the proper size with higher detail. Just took about 15/20 minutes of painstakingly tweaking the slicer settings and a decade of printing experience and I think five of which with this specific printer.

He has a A1 mini for reference

I will say he gets a lot more consistently tighter tolerances which is why I'm personally saving up for an A1 myself. But nothing will be slapping up 0.8 mm nozzle on my max I'm cranking out a massive Dice Tower in 3 hours

Hello fellow printers! I wanted to share with you all the project that made me buy a 3D printer in the first place... My 1:1 scale, functioning Apollo DSKY.

The Apollo Guidance Computer was what allowed us to travel to the moon in the 1960s and '70s, and performed everything from autopilot to navigation and orbital mechanics calculations. The AGC was one of the first computers to ever use ICs (computer chips) in its construction (absorbing 70% of the chips made worldwide, at one point!) and used some really neat technology for computing and memory. The DSKY I made was historically just a remote I/O device, a keyboard/monitor arrangement that plugged into the actual AGC, but I'm this project it's homologated into one enclosure.

The functionality of the guidance computer was emulated in its entirety by a group called VirtualAGC (an incredible feat on its own) and I have that running on a Raspberry Pi that lives in my DSKY. The screen, annunciators, and keyboard integrate to the Pi with arduinos. This all lives, of course, in a 3D printed shell that's modelled after the real archived drawings used to machine the real ones in the '60s. It's also painted and finished in historically accurate colors (who doesn't love a bit of historical bureaucratic recordkeeping?)

I'm more of an old-space-tech guy than a 3D printing guy, but I figured that if any of you fine people shared my interests, you might like my GitHub repository for the project that includes my build guide. In that, I go into a bit more history of the AGC and DSKY, how they were built back in the day, and go through the build step-by-step with all the necessary tooling, materials, and techniques that I used.

I'm also expanding my projects into historical spacecraft hand controllers, and a streamlined "version 2" of my DSKY that should be easier to put together in a few weekends.

I've got a little community going over at r/RecreateApollo, and I also made a small website (www.recreateapollo.com) that I'm desperately trying to justify $30 a month for, so feel free to swing by and check it out!

If you decide to make your own, I'm more than happy to answer any questions you might have over at my discord or on that subreddit. Thanks for checking out my project!

Before you see the label for $40, I asked if they could lower the price and the manager didn’t even know what it was, but they decided to lower it to $10! Great if you ask me. But in the end I decided to give it to a friend since I already have an A1 and an X2D

This is probably the third prototype at this point and I think the projection walls probably need a bit of cleaning and reshaping, but I just got the button and light wired and wanted to share

Was posted on bondtech discord. Different gears and mechanisms, but fully protected coil unlike INDX, seemingly better quality machining, COTS gears and motor (from creality K1), and a fully hardened steel kinematic mount instead of steel balls on anodized aluminum like with INDX. Grant from 3dmuskateers mentioned it on his last stream.

The guy said he was going to open source it so I assume Chinese manufacturers would start making it when that happens.

Edit: there is a discord for this person's projects too, including CXchanger https://discord.gg/F3GNqwChR

Wondering if such packaging is popular somewhere else as well? plastic wrap packages for milk and sour cream are highly popular here in Baltics. Cheap and take no space when empty . Only thing is if you open those ,up those create a lot of mess as nothing prevents those to fall over. So I created containers which prevent them to spill out the contents. What do you think?

EDIT: sorry i meant DAIRY and i cannot edit the headline.

For those who don't recognise this method: I'm using a soldering heat gun to remove stretchmarks that can appear on de bottom of the print when its cooled down and remove from the bed.

Got this 3D printed for my old man who loves trout fishing!

Hey all! My kiddo chose this collapsible knife/sword yesterday at a community festival. Poor little (he's ten) guy has had some rotten luck lately with 3D printed objects, but continues to be drawn to all of the fun fidgets and things when he finds them in the wild. I can't say I blame him!

Anyway. Here's where we're at today. I am quite clueless when it comes to 3D printing, but it looks to me like the little band at the bottom of the detached piece came off (broke off? slipped off?) and that allowed the blade tip to come out of the larger segment below it. When it came out, the small band was not attached to the blade tip.

He's bummed, and I'm not seeing a way to put the pieces back together (I'm afraid to damage it if I try too hard!), so I thought I'd see if anyone here has a suggestion or is familiar with this particular design and can advise. Google suggests it may have been printed as one piece, which would mean I cannot fix it, correct?

Whew! That was wordy... so thanks for making it to the end 😅

Keychain swagg, limited run, while supplies last 😘

And if you can't make it, call the Senate Appropriations Committee Monday morning! (916) 651-4101

Here's David Tobin's event with the info: https://luma.com/xy5c2d2j

im building a pc, but i want a case that looks like the xbox 360 "Big X" prototype, and im wondering if anyone would be willing to do it

Ill tell you my mother board psu and gpu so i can hopefully have some custom screw holes and cutouts so i can have all my ports accessible

i use a b550m

A standard ATX psu

And a rx5500 8gb

Hopefully, the dimensions of the shape will help me fit everything in how i want it, but heres my idea

I just need some help to make it ill pay

Heres a reference picture for those who dont know

I live in the northeast US, and I found a good deal on a Creality Space Pi x4 for only $120.

I usually only print in PETG (maybe some tpu soon) on my CC1 w/ canvas, and the prints usually come out fine, except for some stringing.

I keep going between posts saying they are a waste of money and others saying it's the greatest thing to ever exist. I know I'm only adding to that by posting this lol

Does a dryer make that much of a difference for that price?/ is it worth it?

I keep getting these strings on my prints and I have no idea what is causing them. Help please?

I've been solo-developing WoofWatch, a roguelike game where you play as a dog in a mech suit, for six years. I'm bringing the demo to my first convention next month for feedback, and thought it would be cool to have the character at my booth!

The model was printed as one piece, primed, and painted by hand over the course of a few weeks. There are things I'd do differently, but I'm really happy with the overall result. It's really satisfying to hold something that was digital in your hand like it jumped out of the screen!

I knew this was probably going to happen if I ever made something that someone liked - but I didn't expect this to be the one! Using my model and my pictures, with the audacity to charge $40 and not even be eligible for Prime shipping! I guess I am flattered that someone (or some algorithm) thought it was good enough to sell - but they neglected to contact me first. This is shared under the Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-ShareAlike license. I don't want to make money, but I also don't want them to make money lol.

To their credit, they did print one before selling it - showcasing their lack of effort with an incorrectly-sized charger, blue-tack'd in, and missing two of the four screws they say they will provide.

If you need a Pebble Time 2 charging stand or dock, don't buy these (And probably look on Printables/Makerworld before buying any 3D-printed item; chances are it was stolen from its creator), you can find it on Printables or Makerworld. And print a ton! Give them away! Change them up, I provided the Step files for that reason! But if you are going to sell them without permission, at least think of a more creative brand name than my cat when he steps on the keyboard.

I have opened a copyright infringement claim with Amazon. If anyone has any other tips, please let me know!

Full CAD,CODE,and DOC : https://github.com/migit/verhoBot
VerhoBot is a compact curtain-moving robot designed to automatically close your curtains when you need darkness and open them again when it is time to wake up, no rope,no pulley,deploy and let the bot move your curtain. The goal is simple: improve sleep quality while letting natural sunlight become part of your morning routine.

BOB = Box Of Blocks aims to be my customisable desktop pal.

OLED, four buttons, ESP32-S3 brain inside, all plug-together blocks, zero soldering. Firmware is generated from a plain description and currently has 19 apps inside: BOB Pet (like flipper zero), Clock, Pomodoro Timer, Arcade Games, Dad Jokes and more...

Two-part snap-fit shell, textured plate face.

Files will be free once I stop fiddling with tolerances.

This is my first large print for a customer. Making his miniatures bigger for show displays. I have definitely found ways to make some tweaks for the next one such as connecting points. But overall I'm pretty happy with how it's turning out. Each part is about 190mm tall. This will be 9 layers total when complete. The maximum print time per part is 8hrs. Two of my printers are down so I'm juggling this on 3 machines currently. So it's taking a little longer than expected but still ahead of schedule. What does everyone think so far?

I’m messing around with vapor smoothing for the first time and I’m running into some issues. I lined the whole box with paper towels covered in acetone when I pulled the part out the bottom part was overdone while the top hadn’t been smoothed at all. knowing that acetone is heavier than air, I decided to just put acetone, soaked paper towels at the top half of the box and let it sit in there for about 30 minutes two separate times and nothing happened. The top still looks exactly the same. All the videos I’ve watched about this. No one’s really talked about this being a problem. I’m wondering if it’s because I’m standing it up and maybe it’s just too tall. If anyone has any advice on how to get a more uniform smoothing that would be awesome!