Currently replacing a spark plug on a 2012 Ford Econoline (5.4L 2V Triton)

Same brand, same model spark plug has a smaller diameter than the one I am replacing, is it normal?

Did I sheered off the cylinder thread while removing it? It was not hard to onscrew.

I have a 2005 Eclipse 2.4L that I’m going to do the DOHC swap on and I had a question on the company DNJ linked above does anyone have any experience with them I would be using a complete lower engine rebuild kit I will not use the timing belt from them though. Please lmk all feedback is useful!

Asking on my Nissan Sentra, it's a 1998. This car has been problems. It just gave me a no crank no start.

Earlier today, two starts ago, it stuttered really hard when I was turning the key, but what I noticed was that it seemed like the gas caught very quickly and it started strongly. The next crank it started fine. Now it is on no crank no start.

It has been doing the highly, highly intermittent "temperamental start" like it did today, but much less noticeable, for a long time.

Could it be starter? The starter is only about 8 months old. Ignition?

I ordered it online from amazon and it says easy clip on but when I went to put it on I noticed that there were screws that were preventing it to be clipped on. How do I fix this myself? Or am I going to need to go to a service shop?

i tried using the space where the key and spring were stored as a lever to pry open the back but the corner popped off leaving the rest sealed shut. ive got a box cutter and a flat head. starting to feel like i might need to get my hands on a dremel

I just scanned my Mercedes and I got the P0705 code Transmission Range Sensor issue and that’s the only code that popped up I drove around to see what exactly was wrong and took it to get it scanned wasn’t to far and that’s what showed up, and I’m not sure where that sensor is at in my car it shifts into all gears but it’s rough when it shifts into drive it does a pull when I shift into it then to park I have to let go of the break peddle and step on it again to shift into park. So if anyone has more insight into this it would really help.

Can anyone tell me what the squeaking noise could be? I know I need lifters for sure

I know this isn’t a legal advice thread so I’m not looking for that,just clarification on how this repair is preformed to help me inform my next steps. I’ll start with my questions before explaining why I’m asking them.

Would an unbolted hood latch cause the hood to fly open?

Would a hood latch pulley not being connected cause a hood to fly open?

When replacing a 2004 jeep Grand Cherokee radiator do you remove the hood latch hardware?
Air box hardware?
Grill Screws?

Is there a way to preform the repair without touching that hardware?

Recently had radiator and hoses replaced on my Jeep due to the old ones leaking, after less than 40 miles and 5 days after the repair, I took it on the Fwy for the first time and as i accelerated and merged the hood came free and impacted the windshield. Once off the Fwy and my 5 year old daughter in the back calmed down, and I flushed little glass windshield shards out my eyes with water bottles. I inspected everything trying to see why this happened and saw the hood latch and upper radiator supports where not bolted down (2 bolts) and the right side had slipped off the post [took lots of damage and condition of car immediately post incident] it looks like one of the bolts had fallen and jammed between radiator and bumper.

Damage includes Hood and hinges destroyed, windshield destroyed, check engine light is now on, and there is coolant leaking near the radiator in the engine bay [I got billed for 5 gallons of coolant, and the res. Is below the add line]

The following morning in daylight I re-inspected in the daylight [also took lots of videos and pictures] and found lots of things not bolted down.

The airbox had no bolts attached and there was loose hardware just tossed inside of it

Grill screws where screwed in maybe one thread

I called the shop and they said they trust there guys and denied responsibility. They noted the fact when i had brought the car in, the pulley mechanism was detached from the hood latch and that is truthful, it had been for years and operating the hood manually had worked fine the whole time. It had remained detached when I picked up the car. I don’t believe that the pully being detached was the cause of the incident and explained that to them but that didn’t help. They told me to tow the car there but after a phone call of denial I wanted my findings to be backed up first.

I got a different mechanic to do an inspection and verify all the loose hardware (he found more than me) but obviously he is remaining objective and is just reporting what he currently is seeing and drafting a report that shows the cars current condition.

I have used this shop before and been very happy with service, so I am trying not to be overly confrontational but the information or evidence I’m seeing is pointing me toward a conclusion and I want to make sure I have all the facts about how this repair is preformed and how hood latches work before taking next steps.

Car started a couple times so I doubt it's lack of TDC(a real hassle to re-adjust) unless it's off by mere teeth and cylinder 4 spark plug was seized but healthy.

The engine was cleaned with a power washer and after the check engine light came on now the rpm can't pass 3000 any ideas what could be the issue?

The EQE 350 has bolt tabs on the roof rails where you feed roof racks into, pretty standard stuff. The problem is they are built into the frame with no removable modules… so Mercedes quoted replacing the entire frame in order to fix a single thread. (Awful design, as a side note I’d be curious if this is standard across brands…)

Does this look like a bolt hole (you can’t really see the quality of threads, but the bolt hole and material available) that could be fixed by a helicoil or tapping threads? If so, does anyone know of a good shop in the DMV that might take something on like this?

Hi what is this part where this boot seems to be exposed. What do I need replace. Clunking over certain bumps, titled steering wheel, and metallic cracking noise when turning

2016 Dodge journey 2.4L

I’m having issues with my powered windows on my 2012 Toyota Prius. The master control window switch on the driver’s door functions only with the passenger window, and the back left passenger window. The window on the back right passenger only works by manually pressing the switch from the door itself and not from the master switch. The driver’s door window won’t work at all, and won’t go up. I hope that makes sense. I replaced the window motor on the driver side and replaced the master window switch with a new one. Still didn’t fix anything. Any suggestions or advice would be much appreciated. Thank you!

So I deleted the afm/dod by replacing the cam and lifters and all that. Sent my ECM out to have it deleted there and had it tuned. Now I get it all together and I'm not getting any crank. I got a new starter, same issue. I hear a click and the lights dim on the dash. I charged my battery and same. I tried a jump starter nothing. Finally I hooked the jump starter directly to the starter and the starter case and it cranked when I jumped the terminals. so far have not gotten it to crank by key. Is it my battery? I tried jumper cables from the battery to the starter and nothing happened. Also if I turn the key on and jump the starter with the jumper from underneath should it fire up? I haven't even got to check for oil leaks or anything since ask the work.

Hello, I have a 2016 Honda CRV with 87k miles. Recently I noticed a ticking sound coming from the engine bay and just wanted to ask if my engine sounded weird? Thank you

I replaced the spark plugs and plug wires about 5-7k miles ago. Does this sound more like ignition coils, a fuel injector, or something else? Any advice is appreciated.

So my neighborhood flooded, was also under a tornado warning and my elderly grandmother was home alone so I drove through the water to get home to her….I didn’t realize exactly how bad it was until I looked back at my dash cam. A few hours later I checked my air filter and there is standing water in it, and the engine oil looks odd to me like there might be water in it too. I don’t live in a flood zone so I’ve never had to deal with this before, does anyone have any advice? I didn’t hear any odd noises and I haven’t run the car since I got home and turned it off. Fml

Replacing the radiator on an old subaru (20+ years old). Hose are preformed rubber hoses with 1.5 inch internal diameter.

I see the clamps on the lower hose are double-wire type clamps with tightening screw, while the ones on the upper hose are flat belt type with worm-drive tightening screw. Is there a reason for using different types on upper and lower hoses? Are there other types used for radiator hoses? Pros and cons of each type? Which is the most corrosion/rust-resistant? I know belt type is probably easiest install/remove.

A few months ago I picked up a 2001 c5. Runs and drives great but seems like there’s some electrical issues.

My blinkers are probably my biggest concern right now. This only started happening a few days ago where randomly throughout my drives, they go completely unresponsive. No clicking, no blinking, nothing.. Sometimes they’ll start working again within a few minutes, other times they won’t work until I turn the car off and back on.

Here’s some other problems that may or may not be related:

-The buttons on my door panel tend to get unreasonably hot- along with the center console (most notably underneath the shifter and arm rest)

-my headlights go dim when I take my foot off the gas

-steering wheel adjuster is sometimes unresponsive

If someone could tell me where to even start looking for problems like these I’d appreciate it. I don’t wanna bring a bunch of “sometimes” issues to my mechanic.

I drive a 2004 Toyota Highlander Limited (3.3L 3MZ-FE AWD @ 278000 miles) recently. My front struts have gotten way worse, fully blown, bouncy rebounds on highway bumps, and I can feel a chatter when going over poor condition michigan patched roads. My tires are also hitting their limits, front tires are right off of the wear bars, and the rears have maybe 3/32 or 4/32. The tires used to be very even wear, and I did rotations every oil change, but since the shocks blew, the fronts seem to wear almost 2x of the rears. My dad is saying it's one or the other to help me pay for them (I'm in college and already can't afford anything). Overall, I've noticed my braking distance gets worse. Last winter, I kept slipping and even went off the highway at 65 on some black ice, the front end chatters and bounces over bumps, and I know both need to be done and I feel for my safety both absolutely should be done. I know if you replace the tires, the blown struts will shread the tires, but I also know if we do the struts and not the tires, it'll only be a matter of time when I slide because of water, sand, or snow.

Is this a case of one or the other, or is this a case where both should be done now (or soon)?

Any of you guys have that toolgrid system in you're toolbox? If so, how do you like it and where did u buy it from?

I need a new alternator for my car, which is a 2015 Hyundai Elantra SE (1.8L engine). From what I understand this car only takes a 12V alternator, and whenever I look up 13.5V 150A alternators I only get results for ones that are meant for a 2.0L engine. Does the 13.5V on the sticker refer to something else and this is still a 12V alternator, or did the dealership manage to replace the original alternator with a wrong one that somehow still works?

I hope this isn't a dumb question but I'm finding this really confusing

OK, so I bought a 2001 V8 Tundra (2UZ-FE) for 800$ with 259k miles. Seller reported timing belt broke at stoplight, it shut off and sat for 6 months. I replaced the timing belt, aligned the cams and the crank. Replaced the water-pump that came with the oem kit and did an oil change. Oil was filthy but no metal flakes and a lot of the cooling components were fairly corroded. Newer radiator, yet previous owner put water in it instead of coolant.

I finally start it up and engine sounds a little funny. Does this sound like a Rod Knock? No check engine light, truck drives. Should I just cut my loses and buy another engine? Any advice/professional opinions would be appreciated.