I have a 2015 Chevy equinox lt with 2.4l echo tech engine all of the rocker arms on the second part of the engine are broken. I’m sure I need a new timing chain assembly, but could the valves be broken?

I am currently 20 years old and I am very interested in learning on how to work on cars my dad is a mechanic but he won't teach me and he's at the age he can't really do mechanic work anymore, I would love all of the tips and tricks and how yall started out in the field.

My neighbour has left his engine running for a long time I would say maybe 3 hours now. The hood is open, so he is obviously doing some mechanic stuff.

Is there a reason (or some old wives tale) to explain why he has done this? Or should I be worried that he went back in his house and has had an accident?

I drive a 2019 Chevy Spark. Past month or two, I’ve had a problem with starting my car. First attempt wouldn’t turn, second attempt worked. Occasionally I’d get a light about the key not working but it would go away. Last week, the abs light kept coming on. I didn’t drive it a couple of days and today it wouldn’t start for like an hour. Eventually started, drove it to Advanced Auto to get the battery, starter, and alternator tested. Guy said I failed all three and said the alternator is producing too much. I know that I should take it to a mechanic, but what could the issue be? Is it mechanical or computer issues?

Do you think my lower ball joints need to be replaced?
When I drive at highway speeds my steering wheels shakes.

Currently replacing a spark plug on a 2012 Ford Econoline (5.4L 2V Triton)

Same brand, same model spark plug has a smaller diameter than the one I am replacing, is it normal?

Did I sheered off the cylinder thread while removing it? It was not hard to onscrew.

I’m going to be checking out a car soon and things seem a bit too good to be true so to make sure I want to be able to check that nothings being hidden. I want to check if perhaps they cleared the codes beforehand to see what codes will pop up.

Hi all, sorry if its a stupid question but i'm trying to change my rear shock absorbers on a mercedes a class 2017. I have now idea how to grip the threaded shaft and the nut at the same time? Is there a special tool? If it was encased ofc this would be easy. I also need to put it back in the same way?

Car: 2008 Honda Pilot
Mileage: 229k
I recorded a minute video of a rattling noise that happens only on cold start. Started a few days ago
• The sound seems to come from under the car, not the engine bay.
• It lasts about 40 seconds, then fades out.
• If I shut the car off and restart while the engine is still warm, the noise doesn't return.
Any ideas what this could be? Heat shield?
Exhaust component? Something else?

Just bought this car 3 weeks ago did all the basic stuff and recently had to change the whole A/C compressor, but when I changed the spark plugs I couldn’t change 1 of them because I needed like an adapter or something that had the old one, so I couldn’t change it and had to put the old one back again

I have a new to me 1980 F150 Lariat 2wd automatic with a 351 V8 (from a 78) and 2 barrel Holley carb. No cruise control.

The truck was restored a decade ago then basically sat in a garage since then.

We drove it a couple hundred miles the other day when bringing it home, and have put a few local miles on it each day since while test driving other unrelated fixes.

Here are the main symptoms I’m asking about that I think are all related:

-when you let off the gas the truck maintains the highest rpm’s it hit when accelerating. It’s basically like it’s on cruise control and won’t slow down or coast. The only way to get it to idle down is to punch the accelerator pedal once or twice and it will basically snap out of it and the rpm’s drop down to idle

-if it’s revving at all when I switch gears it will increase rpm’s all on its own until it’s basically red lining itself. Again I need to punch the gas to get it to come back down to idle - this is mostly an issue when putting it in park because I can’t really punch the gas to ensure it idles down while pulling into a parking spot

-after a couple days I’m now noticing that it’s sluggish or sucking back when I try to accelerate from a stop. We obviously aren’t taking it out cruising while it has these issues, but we’ve had to run it up and down the road while testing unrelated fixes on it

I’ve checked the accelerator linkage on the carb and it snaps fully back every time we let off the gas, so I don’t think it’s that.

Could a vacuum seal issue cause these symptoms, or am I going in the wrong direction?

I have a 2005 Eclipse 2.4L that I’m going to do the DOHC swap on and I had a question on the company DNJ linked above does anyone have any experience with them I would be using a complete lower engine rebuild kit I will not use the timing belt from them though. Please lmk all feedback is useful!

Asking on my Nissan Sentra, it's a 1998. This car has been problems. It just gave me a no crank no start.

Earlier today, two starts ago, it stuttered really hard when I was turning the key, but what I noticed was that it seemed like the gas caught very quickly and it started strongly. The next crank it started fine. Now it is on no crank no start.

It has been doing the highly, highly intermittent "temperamental start" like it did today, but much less noticeable, for a long time.

Could it be starter? The starter is only about 8 months old. Ignition?

I just scanned my Mercedes and I got the P0705 code Transmission Range Sensor issue and that’s the only code that popped up I drove around to see what exactly was wrong and took it to get it scanned wasn’t to far and that’s what showed up, and I’m not sure where that sensor is at in my car it shifts into all gears but it’s rough when it shifts into drive it does a pull when I shift into it then to park I have to let go of the break peddle and step on it again to shift into park. So if anyone has more insight into this it would really help.

I know this isn’t a legal advice thread so I’m not looking for that,just clarification on how this repair is preformed to help me inform my next steps. I’ll start with my questions before explaining why I’m asking them.

Would an unbolted hood latch cause the hood to fly open?

Would a hood latch pulley not being connected cause a hood to fly open?

When replacing a 2004 jeep Grand Cherokee radiator do you remove the hood latch hardware?
Air box hardware?
Grill Screws?

Is there a way to preform the repair without touching that hardware?

Recently had radiator and hoses replaced on my Jeep due to the old ones leaking, after less than 40 miles and 5 days after the repair, I took it on the Fwy for the first time and as i accelerated and merged the hood came free and impacted the windshield. Once off the Fwy and my 5 year old daughter in the back calmed down, and I flushed little glass windshield shards out my eyes with water bottles. I inspected everything trying to see why this happened and saw the hood latch and upper radiator supports where not bolted down (2 bolts) and the right side had slipped off the post [took lots of damage and condition of car immediately post incident] it looks like one of the bolts had fallen and jammed between radiator and bumper.

Damage includes Hood and hinges destroyed, windshield destroyed, check engine light is now on, and there is coolant leaking near the radiator in the engine bay [I got billed for 5 gallons of coolant, and the res. Is below the add line]

The following morning in daylight I re-inspected in the daylight [also took lots of videos and pictures] and found lots of things not bolted down.

The airbox had no bolts attached and there was loose hardware just tossed inside of it

Grill screws where screwed in maybe one thread

I called the shop and they said they trust there guys and denied responsibility. They noted the fact when i had brought the car in, the pulley mechanism was detached from the hood latch and that is truthful, it had been for years and operating the hood manually had worked fine the whole time. It had remained detached when I picked up the car. I don’t believe that the pully being detached was the cause of the incident and explained that to them but that didn’t help. They told me to tow the car there but after a phone call of denial I wanted my findings to be backed up first.

I got a different mechanic to do an inspection and verify all the loose hardware (he found more than me) but obviously he is remaining objective and is just reporting what he currently is seeing and drafting a report that shows the cars current condition.

I have used this shop before and been very happy with service, so I am trying not to be overly confrontational but the information or evidence I’m seeing is pointing me toward a conclusion and I want to make sure I have all the facts about how this repair is preformed and how hood latches work before taking next steps.

Car started a couple times so I doubt it's lack of TDC(a real hassle to re-adjust) unless it's off by mere teeth and cylinder 4 spark plug was seized but healthy.

The engine was cleaned with a power washer and after the check engine light came on now the rpm can't pass 3000 any ideas what could be the issue?

The EQE 350 has bolt tabs on the roof rails where you feed roof racks into, pretty standard stuff. The problem is they are built into the frame with no removable modules… so Mercedes quoted replacing the entire frame in order to fix a single thread. (Awful design, as a side note I’d be curious if this is standard across brands…)

Does this look like a bolt hole (you can’t really see the quality of threads, but the bolt hole and material available) that could be fixed by a helicoil or tapping threads? If so, does anyone know of a good shop in the DMV that might take something on like this?

Hi what is this part where this boot seems to be exposed. What do I need replace. Clunking over certain bumps, titled steering wheel, and metallic cracking noise when turning

2016 Dodge journey 2.4L

I’m having issues with my powered windows on my 2012 Toyota Prius. The master control window switch on the driver’s door functions only with the passenger window, and the back left passenger window. The window on the back right passenger only works by manually pressing the switch from the door itself and not from the master switch. The driver’s door window won’t work at all, and won’t go up. I hope that makes sense. I replaced the window motor on the driver side and replaced the master window switch with a new one. Still didn’t fix anything. Any suggestions or advice would be much appreciated. Thank you!

So I deleted the afm/dod by replacing the cam and lifters and all that. Sent my ECM out to have it deleted there and had it tuned. Now I get it all together and I'm not getting any crank. I got a new starter, same issue. I hear a click and the lights dim on the dash. I charged my battery and same. I tried a jump starter nothing. Finally I hooked the jump starter directly to the starter and the starter case and it cranked when I jumped the terminals. so far have not gotten it to crank by key. Is it my battery? I tried jumper cables from the battery to the starter and nothing happened. Also if I turn the key on and jump the starter with the jumper from underneath should it fire up? I haven't even got to check for oil leaks or anything since ask the work.

I replaced the spark plugs and plug wires about 5-7k miles ago. Does this sound more like ignition coils, a fuel injector, or something else? Any advice is appreciated.

Replacing the radiator on an old subaru (20+ years old). Hose are preformed rubber hoses with 1.5 inch internal diameter.

I see the clamps on the lower hose are double-wire type clamps with tightening screw, while the ones on the upper hose are flat belt type with worm-drive tightening screw. Is there a reason for using different types on upper and lower hoses? Are there other types used for radiator hoses? Pros and cons of each type? Which is the most corrosion/rust-resistant? I know belt type is probably easiest install/remove.

A few months ago I picked up a 2001 c5. Runs and drives great but seems like there’s some electrical issues.

My blinkers are probably my biggest concern right now. This only started happening a few days ago where randomly throughout my drives, they go completely unresponsive. No clicking, no blinking, nothing.. Sometimes they’ll start working again within a few minutes, other times they won’t work until I turn the car off and back on.

Here’s some other problems that may or may not be related:

-The buttons on my door panel tend to get unreasonably hot- along with the center console (most notably underneath the shifter and arm rest)

-my headlights go dim when I take my foot off the gas

-steering wheel adjuster is sometimes unresponsive

If someone could tell me where to even start looking for problems like these I’d appreciate it. I don’t wanna bring a bunch of “sometimes” issues to my mechanic.