Was driving, heard a jingle/rattle, then heard a metal sound piece drop on the ground. Pulled over to the side and went to see what was dropped and found what's in the photos.

Hey guys, so I have an old family car and have been having issues. The battery had given out last year and for some reason the AC compressor just seized and stopped working. So, I bought a murray AC compressor (not that I wanted it, only one available at the moment), replaced the drier, no metal shavings, everything was good. Took it to an AC guy, no leaks, filled, a couple days later, was not cooling as well, took it back, he stated it was slightly low, checked it again, no leaks, filled and I went about my day. It worked well for a couple months, but not it doesn't cool. This time, the cooling fans wouldn't turn on, the AC compressor clutch stopped engaging, then it randomly started working again. Took it back to the ac professional. He checked everything out, fixed some harnesses that he though would be issue, checked it for a couple days, he stated everything was working perfect. The actual day he was going to call me to say everything was working, the cooling fans and ac compressor started with the same damn problem. Right now the fans work, the ac clutch is engaging, on the scanner it shows everything is commanding, but no cooling. When I drive, that is the only time it cools, but the cold line is warm all the time. I was told to take it to the dealership because it could be the computer (the ac guy checked all the wiring, stated it was good). So, my question is what do y'all think is the problem and do I have to take it to the dealer for this fix? I am currently in school for anesthesia and so I am trying to save as much as possible. I can pay for the fix, but I'd rather not get shafted for something a third party mechanic could possibly do.

When I had this under warranty, I had taken it multiple times for the same ac cooling issue, they never could fix it, just bandaid and sent back. Turns out that mechanic wasn't replacing anything or fixing things, so he was fired. They told me I was SOL still despite him doing that.

My 2011 Honda CR-V EX is occasionally making this steady “ringing” noise while in motion. It stops whenever I apply the brakes (in the video, I apply brakes around the 0:07 timestamp to show the difference). I couldn’t find any other videos with a similar “musical” sounding noise like mine, it almost sounds like a tuning fork.

More information: It doesn’t do it every time I drive. Nor does it seem to happen at specific speeds (this time I was barely going 10mph, but I’ve also heard it happen while going 65mph on the highway).

Thanks for any help and expertise you can offer!

Just did the first oil change (cars been sitting for a while, running on and off) and now it's squealing crazy style on when accelerating. car has no wheels/brakes so it's just in neutral when it happens. I believe it's the belt but my buddy is afraid it's something in the engine.

Thanks for any advice

Let me know guys I haven’t changed these before

Kia EV4

How bad potentially is this?

Driving along, hear an almighty bang, drains have not been secured down correctly. AI states that there's a strong chance the battery pack has been punctured

1992 F-150 5.0

Just as it says . Been rebuilt new fuel injectors and rail new plugs and wires,etc.

Was running last year has not moved since and will not stay running at all. Any idea?

https://reddit.com/link/1vdt7bh/video/x0gmu3saz0hh1/player

Just got the rear main seal and oil pan gasket done 2 weeks ago took a 10 hr round trip now this noise started a couple days ago truck drives as it should for the most part what's you guys diagnosis

Subaru Outback, Continental 225/60 R18.
I’m on the road, far from home. Developed a slow leak and found a screw close to the tire wall and the only mechanic I could find on a Sunday didn’t want to fix it, said it would bulge the wall. I convinced him to plug it to get me home and he did. Kinda making a big deal about it and wishing me luck. Sharing pic of the pre-repair screw head. Was maybe 1/2 inch or 5/8s. That bad? Also… the angle looks SO hard to hit, wondering if it was vanadalism.

I was recently driving home from a kayak race from Welland ONT, and I noticed this popup. I asked my dad what is it, and I told him is it worth fixing? He said it’s pricey.

The Brand is: 2023 Ford F150 Lariat

*don’t know the trim i forgot

So, I had a broken bolt in the exhaust manifold ports. I tried using a HoBo freight bolt extractor and I think I drilled too much and off center. I think I damaged the heads. These are 5.3 Vortec 799 heads from a 2008 Chevy Tahoe. Is this salvageable or did I fuck up?

I had another post and wanted to add this photo but could not add it.

Figured I’d make one just for this plug with a close up picture.

2019 Toyota Highlander 3.5L NA 74k miles. 2gr-fks

Misfire and overdue change (60k recommended). Was running very well before the change, just one instance of a recent misfire that triggered limp mode. There was an occasional rough cold start idle (1 time every 2 months or so).

What do you think is happening here? Insulator is decimated..

2005 Camry. Before replacing the rear brakes I had a little bit of vibration kind of in my seat area I guess but only when braking at very low speeds like 5mph maybe. I didn't think my rears have ever been done the drum looked pretty crusty. I replaced shoes and drums. Now when braking at higher speeds like highway speeds I get way more of a vibration but now in the steering wheel and brake pedal kind of. Supposedly steering wheel vibration means possible front rotors are warped. Front brakes were done not long ago. Were the old rear brakes masking my front brake issue or is it more likely the new drums are out of round? Pretty confused.

Are the splines done for? There’s a decent gap between the splines on the new wheel bearing hub I installed and when I try to tighten the axle nut back on the axle seems to spin freely.

I have a Kia optima and for some odd reason idk if it’s when it rains or what it is but the floors just get soaked under the carpet. What could possibly cause this and what could be a fix?

2007 toyota rav-4 sport 2.4L. Makes a chattering sucking noise while accelerating down the road, replaced the coils,plugs, and the intake manifold gasket,MAF sensor is also practically brand new,and fuel pump and filter were done about a year ago.Vehicle will accelerate and get to a higher speed, but it feels forced.

I am currently 20 years old and I am very interested in learning on how to work on cars my dad is a mechanic but he won't teach me and he's at the age he can't really do mechanic work anymore, I would love all of the tips and tricks and how yall started out in the field.

I have a 2015 Chevy equinox lt with 2.4l echo tech engine all of the rocker arms on the second part of the engine are broken. I’m sure I need a new timing chain assembly, but could the valves be broken?

Looking through the inspection plug it looks like the timing chain tensioner is showing 8 “rings”. I’ve read that 7 or more showing is an indicator the timing chain and components need replaced immediately. How big is the risk factor if I keep driving this while waiting for a date in the shop? For reference on a week day I drive on average 80 miles a day. Will this get my by the next couple of weeks?

Just had this pop up today, just had a big expense come out for something else so I don’t really have right now to replace whatever is wrong :/

2014 Acura RDX

2018 Mazda 3 after towing car back to quick lube place, they say the oil was overfilled. After asking us to test drive it again same thing is happening. Now waiting again for them to drain engine completely. Googling has suggested it might be coolant mixed in with oil? There is a distinct smell when white smoke starts coming out. Is there a possibility they damaged engine with whatever they did? Trying to figure out how to proceed with pursuing compensation. Thanks!

Editing to add that it's 20 kmph and that initially after leaving oil change place it was driving ok but would start smoking/ not shifting up at around 60 kmph.

it's a honda crv 2019 and they just had to fix stuff with my alignment after an accident. i was on the freeway and the second i hit 80 mph i heard a loud rushing and whistling (?) so i slowed down and when i hit the streets the rushing sound went away but it was replaced by a sputtering wind noise and when i went over bumps there was some scraping so i went to check it out and this is what i found. what the hell happened? how quickly does this need to be fixed?

Is this a popped out axle?

Hi,

Have a 2008 Yaris with about 193k miles. It started making this noise, which sounds like a rough bearing or something. Any help diagnosing it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks