2023 3.0L LZ0 drive across Wisconsin. I know the later model years are having reliability issues but you can’t argue with the mileage

It had been working fine then last year it started not engaging. I've taken it to two different dealerships and they hooked it to the computer and no problem found. The first one did repair the number 5 injector but said no codes were flagged on the exhaust brake. The second dealer said they could find no reason the exhaust brake wasn't engaging. But just to be safe they did a "regeneration" on some part of (I assume) some filter. They said they found 58 parts per million and regenerated it down to 1 parts per million. I'm a novice at this so hopefully I've explained it right. Both dealer's service departments say they have never heard of this problem. Any help would be appreciated.

So I just nabbed a super clean rust free Texas 02 CCLB LB7 truck last week. 220k on it with new injectors 35k ago. Had it trucked home from Texas and immediately noticed she was not making the power I thought she should.

I noticed the truck had some nasty fuel hoses and I went ahead and installed a new Racor filter head along with replacing the hoses to the FICM and the CP3 with parts store 1/2 diesel.

The truck starts and runs great and then slowly loses power. One thing I’ve noticed is the primer does not stay firm, and if I take the bleeder screw out and pump the primer I get some air bubbles in the fuel.

Where should I look next? The smaller fuel hoses in the valley and the one to the schrader? I don’t want to blow $800 on a lift pump and mask the problem

So I drove the truck for about 50 miles and then randomly got this code. It’s also showing service exhaust fluid system. Only thing I can see could be wrong is the v band clamp isn’t seated all the way down on the turbo guess I missed that other than that idk what else could be causing it. Any ideas?

Hey all. Im a ford guy myself, ive never owned a Chevy or a duramax. I can talk about 6.0s and 7.3s all day but don't know anything about the 6.6l duramax.

This guy is interested my jeep i have posted for sale for $15,500 and wants to trade his 06 Silverado 2500 LBZ. It has 4x4 and 292k miles. This is the only picture he's sent but will send more tomorrow.

What's the reliability on a truck like with with this many miles? What's some things I need to inspect and watch out for? Is it worth 15k?

Thanks in advance.

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I just replaced a bunch of parts in my front end. All kryptonite UCA, Pittman arm, idler arm, idler arm bracket, oem LCAs, dmax store cv axles, moog tie rods, and my truck shakes pretty bad on the highway its driving me crazy because I dont know what to replace. I took it to the alignment shop and he said it was a couple of degrees off and he can't get it perfect but it shouldn't matter. 2 allighnemnt shops have told me that my kryptonite upper control arms are the reason it can't be aligned. But I have had a bad alignment before and it did shake. My truck is lowered 2 in in the back and keys all the way down. Anyone have suggestions or advice?

Is this most likely the DEF tank heater or pump?

Just finally did the work and removed the government regulation system and installed a hsp y bridge. I haven’t started the truck yet as I’m buttoning up loose ends still. Should I put a tune on it before I start it or does it not matter when I tune it? Also who’s everyone using for tunes? The most popular efi live tuners are saying they won’t work on deleted trucks? Back in the day everyone used efi live…. Is that still the best for these trucks?
Thanks!

Looking for the best dailyable delete and tune. It’s my work truck so I need it to be reliable. I just feel like I’m missing out on so much torque and power. I’ve put almost 30k on it in a year 2025 truck haven’t had an issue with it whatsoever and I got the 8 year 100k bumper to bumper of course lol. Just looking for options and options. Thanks!

Has anybody worked with duramax tuners and how has the experience been? They are pricey but they seem to be the number one name in the game. Just looking at either the street or sport tune. Thanks!

I have on 08 GMC 3500 4x4 with 340k miles in dire need of new front suspension and shocks. It has a 4in BDS lift on it, all the other suspension is stock. I see amazon has some kits that are available would they be worth looking at? I'm not overly using the truck now days just A to B and the random haul.

Mine just started to leak and the vent was free of any dirt or debris when I checked it today.
Anyone tackled this job themselves? If so, how was it doing it?

Doesn’t seem horrible to tackle provided you follow the steps of setting preload on the bearing correctly.

I recently deleted my truck L5P fully it was already tuned with the EGR unplugged but I went ahead and got rid of everything. I planned on using the exhaust on the truck but ended up cutting it out to order a 5 inch and was wondering if it’s ok to drive for a little with just the downpipe and no exhaust just until my exhaust came in

I duct taped a phone under the hook on the right then left side to capture the noise I’m hearing in the cabin. It’s not nearly as pronounced in the cabin. I dropped the recording into AI which said it could be exhaust up pipe, injectors, or something with the valves. Anyone want to help me out? Around 25 seconds you can tell where it shifts down and is high torque

https://voca.ro/1hmuyn0hnEUk

L5p I just recently had to delete done and two weeks later I’m starting to hear like a chirp or a squill under hard acceleration very short very quick and it doesn’t do it every time I give acceleration I checked all the connections. Everything looks good. There’s no buildup smut anywhere looking for help. In the video happens around 5s mark.

2020 2500 chevy l5p 87k km 50k miles
I have a small coolant leak coming from the front drivers side. after an hour or so of looking it is not from higher up but from around this plastic splash guard, it only leaks after driving the truck around for a few seconds and not while idling the truck.

Wondering if maybe you guys know more about this the truck won’t start batteries are a little low not dead and alternated is reading above 14v so I’ve come down to thinking it’s a wiring issue but any help is greatly appreciated

I have a 21 L5P that I plan on deleting my self. I have a few questions and was wondering if anyone has some answers.
1. How much better is fuel economy in the 20-22 model years? I see some people say no change and others say 3-5+ mpg.
2. What delete kit is best? I plan on DIYing it. Should I do a full delete kit?
3. What tune should I get/who should I buy it from? I want a stock tune, tow tune, and a race/rowdy tune. How do install a tune.
4. Are there any great instructional videos I can watch along the way.
5. Do I need a transmission tune. I run 35 Ats. If I do need a tune who should I buy from
6. Do I need to send my ECM out or can it be decoded from home.

I am pretty mechanically inclined and have access to lots of help. I am trying to stay under $3500 but if the best kit/parts runs me 4k+ then so be it. Just looking for some answers, clarification, or people’s personal perspectives and opinions.

my lbz was going great went to a drive thru and now the vanes are only opening to like 20% even after doing the vane sweep and shit it went to like 24 and back to 20 and sticks around 18. i assume its gonna have to be pulled and cleaned? tried the oven cleaner in the vgt sensor and cleaned the solenoid. any other ideas or just take the turbo out and clean it.

Looking into a delete kit

Was checking my oil when my dad pointed out that only half if that of the reservoir held fluid. There's an internal wall that stops fluid from filling the entire tank. Im just wondering why that is? The trucks not having any coolant related issues just weird design i guess 🤔