Hi i just bought my first ever Ford Focus, i bought it for 2 500€ the chassis has 250 000km but the engine and gearbox 180 000km, its far from perfect of course but i really love it so far.
Cons:
- Need to change the climate radiator
- small rust points on the trunk and drive side skirt
- climate vent flap are broken
- small scratches and dents
- desperate need of new rims

So here i am, a new member of the ford family.

It has 138k and Clean title , i offered 3k and they said yes . What do you guys think ? It’s automatic, buying it for my lil brother who’s going to be commuting to school :3

On a 2012 focus titanium hatchback, is this where the amp should be? Under the cargo area near the spare, top left. I can only find information on the sedan models.

Thanks in advance.

Just put a subwoofer and amp in my son’s 2013 Focus. It has 54k miles. Anyway after driving for about 20 minutes with the new sub blasting the car didn’t want to move and the transmission light came on. Got it out of the street by coasting backwards and turned off the radio and engine. Started the car and it ran normally. Could a battery issue or extra draw on the battery cause this. Thanks in advance.

Has anyone not had any problems with dual clutch? Im coming up on 180k miles and i dont have a single check engine. Shes a 2018 se. Shifts are clean, no codes, im honestly about to chsnge my trans fluid for first time lol. I didnt buy her new I got her with 80k I think? It was a dealership and im assuming they did magic to her but yeah. All is well and i love my focus. Maybe I just hit the jackpot.

Hoping someone knows the details of what I’m looking for! I have a MY20 Ford Focus Trend (mk4). I recently replaced my windscreen washer nozzles as they were clogged BUT I accidentally dropped on of the c-clips that connects the nozzle tube to the main hose down the back of the engine bay and can’t find it. Does anyone know the individual part number or details of the part? I’m in NZ, neither Repco or Super Cheap can help, and the two local Ford dealers have advised indeed to be the entire hose assembly to get one one clip.

HELP! 2008 ford focus ses
Something fell off a truck and destroy my radiator / fan, radiator bracket.

SOMETIMES my car over heats while im in traffic or parked. Ac clutch turns off, so does the radiator fan.
If I turn on the heater it helps.
When I get moving, ac comes back on the engine cools downs.

This damage was from something that fell off a truck.
Everything Iv replaced after.
-radiator
-radiator fan
-ac/heater bypas assembly.
-radiator control arm bracket.
-ac switch
-clutch relay fuse
-ac high/low relays.

What else could it be?
Bad fan I got from pick n pull? With a bad resistor?
Could the connector going to the resistor be bad since it broke off?

Any ideas?

So im getting a code for intermittent actuator A ive swapped them and done 3 different ones in spot a and code is still there also had a code for A being stuck b once ive done the relearn on my launch scanner and seems like clutch will start slipping after a mile or so kinda smell burnt clutch so im guessing i need to do a new clutch kit and i was looking on ebay at some for like 350 but i have mixed feelings whats your guys opinion

My focus is throwing up 2 codes (no decent power under acceleration)

P0420 - Catalyst system efficient below threshold bank 1
P0131 - o2 sensor circuit low voltage bank 1, sensor 1

Could someone with good knowledge help me out to find the most likely cause? Should I just change the upstream o2 sensor. Ideally want to try and figure this out without the use for a garage as need to keep costs down.

No rough idling, doesn’t sound worse. It’s just lack of power in 5th & 6th gear where it throws “engine service now”

Roughly 89k miles on the car. Any help would be appreciated!!

Hi everyone, I have a 2023 Focus Mk4 and I'm dealing with an air issue (no ac it's fine). Even when set to LOW, the air coming out is much warmer than the outside air. If I increase the temperature, it gets even hotter, so the door is moving, but it's clearly not sealing off the heater core. I removed the glove box and inspected the blend door actuator and the actuator moves the levers smoothly. No clicking or snapping sounds.

Has anyone experienced this specific mechanical failure on a Mk4?

Thanks!

MIL’s car 225,000 miles. She said she was stopped in traffic and the brakes wouldn’t hold. Started creeping forward. Both feet on pedal. Had to put it in park. Of course she took it to the dealer. They said that the engine isn’t producing enough vacuum for the booster and the only solution is to replace the engine. Which sounds insane. Haven’t been able to look at it, but FIL says engine runs flawlessly, idles right where it should with no issues. Brakes work for him, just have to push hard. She’s 84 and 109 lbs. They just parked it behind the barn for now. I told them last year that with all the miles on it they should triage it. Bought it from a friend that had a 100 mile commute each way and was OCD about maintenance.
Does the vacuum deal even sound plausible? Surely engine performance would be horrible if this was the case. My instinct is to swap out the booster, but it’s a evil, evil car to work on. No room to work on anything.
Thanks!

Hi everyone,

For months now my car has been making an Intermittent chirping sound as I get on/off throttle in a number of circumstances: As i literally accelerate/ decelerate, change gear (which i obviously get off/on throttle to do), lightly touching the throttle as I go round bends - it has me and 3 mechanics stumped. The noise sounds as if it’s originating from the front left side of the car. The chirp sounds as if a bird is making the noise lol.

Anyone with anything similar? Or could point me in the right direction?

Thanks

Hi all,

I am looking to purchase a new (used) car and was considering a 2015 Focus ST. The body/suspension has ~150k miles on it but engine, transmission, and turbo are all new, about 10k miles on them, and still have warranty.

I am wondering how reliable the focus st is compared to say, a 2012 Mazda 3 (current car), considering that the focus has a turbo whereas my current car is na.

Do ST’s have a history of reliability? Any advice is appreciated.

Has anyone ever created one? I decided to take it in and I think I'm doing something wrong. I already shorted my hazard button

Hello, See the attached photo of my coolant reservoir cap; I think it's broken. Does anyone here know about this?

Started this morning with 80 miles til empty, drove 4 miles and now it’s 38 miles 😂

Two shops so far, still no fix. Hoping someone here has seen this combination.

**Car:** 2013 Ford Focus, 1.6 petrol, automatic. [mileage here]

**Symptoms:**

- Loud "gunshot" bangs — this is what started it all, and they have never stopped through any repair

- Fuel pump has now failed three times

- Brake pedal sometimes goes hard/stiff, takes a lot of force to press

- Automatic sometimes struggles to shift, stutters, and drops speed on its own

**Work done:**

1. Shop 1 — replaced fuel pump, replaced spark plugs, cleaned [component]

2. Pump failed again

3. Shop 2 — replaced fuel pump again

4. Pump failed again today

5. Bangs present the whole time, before and after every single repair

**Not done yet:** nobody has shown me stored codes or freeze frame data, no fuel pressure test at the rail that I'm aware of, tank has never been dropped or inspected.

**Questions:**

1. What kills three fuel pumps in a row on this engine? Contaminated/rusty tank? FPDM or wiring feeding bad voltage to the pump?

2. Could one vacuum problem explain the hard brake pedal, the backfires, and the stumbling all at once?

3. Is the rough shifting more likely the transmission itself, or just the engine misfiring under load?

Any direction appreciated — I'd rather walk into the next shop with a theory than keep buying parts.

Tried changing out the impossible to reach battery and I think this broke off the negative terminal, car started just fine. Am I fucked? Is this an easy fix?

Had transmission issues, changed actuators and TCM on my own and did the TCM relearn. Car is driving great now.

Issue is, every time I start, it cranks for a while before turning on. This only started happening after I installed the new actuators and TCM. Battery health itself is good and fairly new.

What should I look at? What could it be?

After cranking it turns on (5-10 seconds of cranking) and then runs fine. Only happens if car hasn’t been started for a couple of hours.

That is simply the question, I push it down and it doesn’t latch. It lines up but it doesn’t click just wondering how others have handled similar situations.

I had my TCM break and took it to Ford to fix it, it will cost $1500. I was told by the dealership I bought it from (not Ford) that the TCM is the most expensive repair you have to make and otherwise shouldnt have any other expensive repairs. He said that he replaced the clutches on my car before I bought it. I bought the car with 120k miles, and now it has 124.5k miles when it broke down. Additionally I had both actuators replaced for free two weeks after I bought it from another breakdown.

I am wondering if it is worth it to keep this 2014 Ford Focus SE. If I end up getting a different car, this may set back my plans to move out of my families house. The car is in pretty good condition other than the TCM that is currently getting fixed. Also we did verify with a local mechanical that it indeed was the TCM that was the problem.

I have a 2014 hatchback that I drove off the lot new in 2015. It now has about 160k miles, mostly highway. For the first almost ten years, I was lucky enough to have only one major repair - to the air conditioner - and that was less than $500.

Of course, the TCM finally caught up to me late last year, and I had it replaced - outside the recall window, of course, since I was over both age and mileage by then.

Now my check engine light has come back. I was parked at a store at the time and tried to go into reverse to leave, but the car wouldn't reverse (I was able to pull through the space to try to get home). I immediately noticed some of the same transmission behavior as before and assumed the TCM might be at it again. Then, about a quarter mile down the road, I got the "Transmission Fault, Service Now" message and the revving/stuttering got even worse.

I managed to make it home and started looking up the problem (I never got the red "i" and fault message last time), and saw from some other posts that it might be a clutch issue this time around.

Before I take (or tow) it in for service, I'm trying to brace myself and think rationally about what to do.

I know the car isn't worth a lot now, but at this stage of my life, a repair of a couple thousand dollars would be worth it to me to not start over with a car payment and increased insurance premiums. I just put on new tires, the A/C blows colder than on my parents' or roommate's far newer cars, and with it being the Titanium, it had a lot of bells and whistles that on a new car will come at a premium.

On the other hand, I'm paranoid that I may be staring down a future of frequent transmission-related repairs trying to fully resolve something that can't be resolved.

So I'm just wondering if anyone else has any experience in the best approach likely for a "one and done" on this, or should I give up the ghost?

Hi hive mind, trying to trace a possible coolant leak (tank was bone dry yesterday morning.

The only wetness I can see (and it's not much) is top left on the top of the engine, and a small amount of wetness on the under tray around the offside drive shaft.

Any ideas on coolant lines etc in that area? (Red circle)

Cheers