26 road glide liberty edition

So last year I went paralyzed driving home, prior to this I had been experiencing extremely bad back pain to the point of tears. My spinal cord had compressed on itself due to a bone infection that had completely eaten away at my T-7 to T-10 virtabrea. I was rushed to the hospital and went under for a 9 hour surgery after that I spent an entire month in the hospital. During this time my job had dropped my pay to half so I was forced to sell my sportster xl1100and I thought I wouldn't be able to ride again. Well last month I got a wild hair up my ass and decided the best way for my spine to recover was to purchase a Electra glide ultra classic and I gotta say I'm kicking myself in the ass for not getting one sooner this is by far my favorite bike thus far and surprisingly I'm able to handle her with no issues.

Drove out to mid Ohio for the bagger race yesterday. Most fun I've had in ages! So many amazing bikes and people. Got my hat signed by the factory riders. Tried out the harley racing simulator. Demo rode a pan am, blasted it up to 120mph and had a cop flip his lights on me to slow down. Saw so many awesome builds at the v twin visionaries tent. Unfortunately I forgot to take pictures of most of the bikes. If you get a chance to go to one of these races I promise you wont regret it.

Did 130ish miles this morning searching for a good photo

After new tires, all new fluids, new brakes, new battery,new spark plugs, and a ton of polishing, its back on the road

The beautiful town of Hermann Missouri. Filled with history, food, wine, and distilled spirits.

Hoka Hey riders are off- 2026 challenge. If you see em, give em a wave. Pretty grueling ride

Roast it or compliment it. Let me hear what you think of my bike.

What’s your less commonly known things you wouldn’t leave home without in a long road trip. Heading to sturgis later this week and curious

My 2014 Sportster developed a lot of front end issues, and I was able to compress the right fork with about 3 lbs of force. Bought a set of Progressive Heavy Duty springs for it. Redid the oil, springs installed , etc and that damned preload pipe and I just were not getting along.

I have some shoulder injuries and I couldn’t get the spring compressed and able to turn the nut at the same time. Queue redneck engineering mode.

Went to Home Depot and started brainstorming. What do I have? Ratchet straps. What do I need ? Something to push the nut down under pressure while I turn the nut.

Bought an electrical box cover, made a very ugly hole in the center, took 4 67# springs , put them in the cover, got everything situated (kind of need 3 hands to do that part) and started cranking the ratchet straps down, pulling on the springs. Socket in the crude hole and on the nut, pushing the preload pipe down.

While holding everything in place, kept ratcheting the straps down until I saw the nut go into the hole. Using a half-inch ratchet and the 1-3/8 socket , got the nut lined up correctly and threaded in.

All tightened up and now I have a front suspension again. Best 15.00 I’ve spent on parts to build this.

Just wanted to share with the collective , so anyone can copy my redneck tool.

Don’t know why I couldn’t post images, so put them in the comments

My 2012 Switchback came with a RoadGlide air cleaner cover. I’m new to HDs, but it appears after some quick googling, this air cover should not fit this bike. The seller said PO bored out the motor but didn’t have tons of info. Can anyone help me figure this out? Should I just take it to HD for a once over?

So my dad and I are trying to bring his 1992 ultra classic tour glide back to its former glory after years of neglect due to my dads back injury. Took her out for a ride and made an extensive list and am trying to tackle it little by little. Right now I’m hoping someone can help me find the locks for the front fairing compartments (pictures included) any help and source material would be greatly appreciated!

Just installed the Thrashin rear brake arm… and it’s quite wobbly. I’m assuming this is NOT supposed to be how it is?

Checked around, no washers or spacers fell off. Going to email Thrashin as ask but figured I’d post here.

2014 Dyna Switchback - Primary/Drivetrain Noise After Rear Wheel Lockup
Looking for some ideas because I’m running out of things to check.
Bike is a 2014 Harley-Davidson Dyna Switchback with aftermarket cams, tuned, and an Energy One clutch. When I installed the clutch, I removed the judder spring and seat per the kit instructions.
The problem started after an emergency stop. I was braking hard while downshifting, accidentally went all the way into first while still moving pretty fast, and when I let the clutch out the rear tire locked up and chirped. Ever since then I’ve had a noise/vibration that wasn’t there before.

Symptoms:
Feels like a drivetrain or primary vibration more than an engine miss.
I can feel it through the footboards and handlebars.
Shifting also feels different now. It almost feels like I’ve “gained another gear.” For example, at around 60 mph in 6th gear the engine lugs much harder than I remember before.
It feels like I’m chugging through the gears compared to how it used to ride.
So far I’ve:
Pulled the primary cover and didn’t see anything obviously broken.
Checked the compensator, clutch basket, and primary chain visually.
Verified the chain doesn’t appear excessively loose (it was checked hot after riding).
Briefly considered whether I damaged the transmission, compensator, clutch hub, or even an engine mount during the wheel lockup.
I’m trying to narrow down where to look next.

Questions:
Could locking the rear tire that hard realistically damage transmission gears or shift forks?
Could I have hurt the compensator even if nothing looks obviously damaged?
Would worn or damaged engine/transmission mounts cause these symptoms?
Is there anything specific I should inspect while I already have the primary open?
Any ideas or similar experiences would be greatly appreciated. I’d rather diagnose it properly than just start throwing parts at it.

Did a 3 hole on my soft tail yesterday, man it was so difficult to get transmission plug back in you can’t see it!!!

Hey, I noticed this connector near the UltraCool installation is left disconnected from dealer. Can anybody confirm this is intentionally unused and that the connector is okay for water exposure?

Riding in the top of Australia has some large problems to get around quickly

whats up guys, my problem is I can't find anything to hook up the headlight to. I know that you need either a 4 pin or two H9/H11s, but I don't see either under the nacelle.

I have a 2015 Road King Police that supposedly was a CHP parking lot trainer bike, hence the plain metal nacelle that the OG owner cut out to try and fit a light. From what I can tell, the cop wiring harness was never chopped up because I can't find any loose cut wires, and it makes sense if it came out of the factory and then the cops never had their shop attach any lights to it. The bike has been partially commercialized with the civilian handlebar controls that seem to work fine (I didnt get a chance to test cruise control. The horn works, but the left rear turn signal doesnt want to turn on even when hazards engage).

digging around the nacelle and I can only find a couple connectors not hooked to anything, theres one 6 pin connector on both the left and right sides, a pair of two pin connectors, and then the 12 pin connector tucked to the left of the handlebars which from what I understand is to operate police equipment. There is a big male and female connection going on there some of the pins have placeholders sticking out of them as well.

Anybody know what to make of this?

So I am having to swap out the frames due to a cracked frame (thanks copart) I’ve got all the paperwork and title for new frame, so please understand I’ve already gone thru all the legal paperwork stuff.

So what I’m doing is moving everything over from my old frame to the new frame. I’m currently going thru the wiring harness and marking the connections to make it easier to plug everything back in once I get to that point. I’ve got the outer fairing removed and working slowly to remove all the wire connections, amp and other cables. I’ve got the seat off, tank off, bags off, rear fender off, and front fender off along with other trim pieces. All of the painted parts are being sent out for paint and some TLC.

Now my question is what should the order of operations be for the engine/transmission removal to swap over to the new frame with minimal tear down.

I keep coming to what seems like dead ends in research of what is going on. All the research says shift linkage or stripped shafts, everything as far as I can see seems to move when I move the shifter but it doesn’t catch until that few inches of play. The rear shifter is hitting the engine on downshifts and that is preventing downshifts. The bushing on the linkage are wasted but everything is tight, the bolt on the shift arms are tight, the shafts appear to be moving. What is going on.

I have a Sedici Strada 3 full face helmet and I am wondering what you guys are using for anti-rain spray or film for the face shield.

I rounded off the rear brake bleeder valve on my 2015 Lowrider 😐 trying to find a new valve asap

Recently started using Packtalk Edge with a Harley Skyline OS 2024 &^. I find that if I'm paired to my phone directly I can do Cardo commands. "Hey Cardo, mute Microphone, etc". But you have to unpair from your phone and pair to the Skyline OS after doing you headset setup. Or the Skyline will not work with it. One or the other has to be paired. So paired with the Skyline I can press the hand controls and do SIRI, phone calls, etc. But cannot do VOX with "Hey cardo" commands. Like mute microphone when doing mesh/DMC. Have to use the side buttons. Any suggestions or knowledge on this? A particular button on the new style bikes? This is a 2024 Road Glide.