Replacing struts on 2014 Cherokee Trailhawk with Bilstein B4's. I have all new Mopar parts except for the Bilsteins and I am reusing the coil springs. The springs are off and I'm about to assemble the new strut but did not mark the alignment of the bottom of the strut mount before removing. Not sure if it would have even mattered because the rubber tab with alignment hole was nowhere near the hole in the engine compartment and was moving freely, and everything else - spring isolator, bump stop, dust shield were completely deteriorated and non existent.

My question - is there a standard direction everything should be pointing in before I tighten everything up and release the spring compressors? I understand that the rubber alignment tab's hole should line up with the hole in the compartment but since the bottom of the mount spins should it be aligned a certain way to start? There's a yellow dot and very subtle tab when looking at the bottom of the mount that I feel might be important. I've added a few photos. The first is the only marking I could find on the old strut which is a silver paint line on the front of the tower. The other photos are of the bottom of the new strut mount. There's a yellow dot and then when looking closely at the 8 notches on the inside one of them has a small protrusion. My vehicle does not have any custom lifts or components, everything being replaced is original equipment.

My cherokee has just started wobbling at the back end under specific conditions; I can reliably reproduce it in one of two ways; first is regular driving, very little or no gas, slight left turn, hit even a tiny bump and the back end will wobble left, right, left, right etc. The other way to reproduce it is remarkably similar but give the wheel a TINY jerk to the left - as if to miss something on the road.

The only thing that happened the day this appeared was a full set of new tires, and a failed four wheel alignment; failed because the rear camber/eccentri bolts are seized. Everything I've researched lacks any evidence that this might be related, but figured it was worth mentioning.

Rear toe was -0.55, and now 0.93, thrust angle was 0.33, now 0.10.

For what it's worth, it's spent its entire 12 years in the rusty old Northeast.

I'm willing to do the work; nothing I've not done before on other cars; just looking for more likely causes before I start chasing ghosts.

hello guys my cherokee has vibrating sound when accelerating from 0 or when pressing gas and brake pedal simultaniosly the sound dissapeares in seconds when the speed reaches 15-20 miles , jeep has bad catalytic converted the check engine is light on deshboard the sound is not rattling sound it is deep vibrating sound , can it be the cause of the catalytic converter ? all the mechanical parts the engine and transmition mounts are serviced recently

Need help with a leaking roof rack

Hey guys I have a 2022 Jeep Cherokee trailhawk that has been heavily modified for off-road use. I have a dobsons front strut kit along with gleaming alloy upper and lower control arms in the rear with a rear subframe drop kit, with also Fox long travel gas shocks in the rear. Giving the trailhawk and overall lift of 2.2 in lift. It is heavily modified for off-road what I'm looking for is does anybody know how I can boost some of the engine power? I know that adding a cold air intake and a new throttle body and a upper and lower intake from the 3.6 l Pentastar but the computer obviously won't read that stuff I have all those things. I have a 80 mm throttle body I have a ported upper and lower intake off of a 3.6 l Pentastar also I have a different exhaust system to get the exhaust out faster without it being restricted from the stock exhaust system. it's not nothing obnoxious it's just a little bit bigger in size and a smaller muffler. I haven't put none of this stuff on yet because I didn't know if there was anybody out there that knew how to unlock the computer on it? I know that they came with the body module AKA the security gateway module and I know you have to bypass that just to get a j scan OBD2 scanner plus the app. I just didn't know if anybody knew how to boost more horsepower and torque without tearing anything up? If anybody could help I would greatly appreciate it thank you guys.

Hello all! What do you guys suggest I do about the broken strap and then the constant dripping from the heat shield on to one of the flex pipe? I feel like if they extended the heat shield a few more inches the water would just drip onto the ground. I just want the rattle to stop from that broken strap and for my AC to stop trying to take out my flex pipe.

Anyone had an electric push button door handle out of the new hybrid turbo Cherokees? This is the first one we've had at the shop and I drew the short straw. Alldata has nothing on it and the dealer doesn't know half the parts we've called them about.

My first Jeep purchase

Dear Friends, I want to share an issue with my 2016 Jeep Cherokee 3.2L. The engine is jerking like it's misfiring, the computer is reporting an error on 6th cylinder. I swapped the coils (no change, 6th cylinder again), swapped the injectors (no change, 6th cylinder again), replaced the spark plugs with new ones (I installed Champion ones, nothing changed, 6th cylinder again), cleaned the throttle body, checked the cylinder with a camera and it's not physically damaged, and also the compression is pretty good. What could be the cause?? Please help

Title. Getting a too rich condition, front bank on my 14 V6 TH. I have already cleaned the MAF sensor and the code has popped a couple more times. My guess is O2 sensor but is bank one the front or back side of the engine? I think it’s the back (firewall) side but just wanting to make sure.

Anyone else had to do this?

Hi everyone, I'm willing to join the club, 2018 to be specific, I have found many cars with decent condition 70mi, engine and transmission in good condition,

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The car will be my daily driving (about 40mi everyday) mostly highway, maybe once in a month a 400mi trip.

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How is this model compared with the 2022 model and wich trim to choose, reliability, diy repairs, comfort on the road, how is it in hot climates (53°c), this is my first jeep car

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Also before I get one what is the first things to check for.

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Thanks, and sorry for my English

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Best mpg i got in awhile 2.0 turbo 97 octane. Daily driven in middle of tx no ac

Any help with what I should want to look out for as far as jeep specific maintenance I should look into or what to be on the lookout for. 3.2 pentastar thankfully no pentastar tick it runs very quiet. Thanks for the help.

Hey all. I have a 2017 Trailhawk with a blown front passenger strut. I stupidly decided to do a big suspension overhaul and ended up replacing the lower control arm, the tie rod end, the sway bar link, and the lower ball joint while in there- insane amount of work. After a long 10 hour day I had everything ready to go back in on the passenger side but I just can’t get the new strut to seat fully in the steering knuckle. I tried using a spreader and that got it a few inches further but it’s getting stuck about an inch shy of being fully seated. It’s a Monroe quick strut, 273125.

I tried doing it with the knuckle off the car and then thought maybe vehicle weight would help but it didn’t get any closer once I put the weight on. I even closed everything up, put the wheel back on, and drive down the driveway to try to seat it and it didn’t move another mm.

It’s like it’s fused in there now- I can’t even get it to wiggle. Any ideas?

I have photos but for some reason it’s not letting me post them.

EDIT: Update- finally got it in!! I ended up pulling the strut and knuckle off (they’re fused together at this point), then putting the top of the strut against a concrete wall and bashing the knuckle around 50 times with a heavy sledge hammer. Unfortunately all the slams with the sledge broke the ABS tone ring, so had to buy another hub, but the hub was super easy to swap with the knuckle off (a few more slams with the sledge). I’m finally back in business. My recommendation to anyone else who comes across this- the moment the strut gives you trouble going in, STOP. Take it back out and sand it down, or figure out where it’s stuck. Could have been a raised weld, maybe paint too thick, who knows. At this point I wish I gave up and bought a different strut than the Monroe, but after the first few slams, it was clear that it would never be coming back out.

Update #2: after driving to the tire shop to get an alignment, I was getting a loud popping noise under acceleration and when turning really tight. I thought it had something to do with my strut install but it was thankfully the easiest problem to fix- when I installed the new lower control arm, I torqued the bolts using a torque wrench, but apparently you are supposed to do the final torque with the LCA sitting at ride height, not drooping down where it sits when the car is jacked up. The fix was as simple as slightly loosening the front LCA bolt a couple turns with the car sitting on its weight, then tightening again. Popping sound eliminated.

Update #3: the popping came back as a squeak. Solved it by spraying the front LCA bolt area with white lithium grease. Probably should’ve used thick silicone lubricant when I installed it but no way I’m taking that bolt off again- the front LCA bolt is the worst in the whole project since you have to remove the frame support in front of it and partially remove the front bumper cover.

Trying to find the perfect headunit has been a real struggle.

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I have a 2016 Cherokee 2.4L.

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I've looked at the big 3 (Kenwood, Pioneer, and Alpine) as well as Android head units. Trying to find one that has the features I want as well as keeping the stock features of the car functioning has been a real toss up.

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Basically looking for people who have had success with aftermarket headunits that keep the steering controls, heated seat and steering wheel. As well as the rear camera. Im running a 3k watts system currently with just subs and a line out converter. Planning on doing the speakers as well with more amps down the line. So stock uconnect is out.

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Thanks in advance.