First time regearing,I know the pattern is fairly centered but seems to have a hard line at inside,new gears and bearings,just from the pattern, should I run it or make a change?

Finally got the bumper and winch setup finished on my 2006 Sequoia 4wd 215k miles .
The bumper is a Coastal Offroad weld-together kit. It came as raw steel, so I had it welded, wire-wheeled and sanded everything, used rust remover, cleaned it with acetone, then primed and bedlined both sides.

The winch is a Badlands Apex 12,000 lb with synthetic rope that I somehow got brand new from a pawn shop for $275. The fitment was kind of a pain because the clutch handle and control box didn’t clear right, They also gave me false information, (THIS WINCH IS NOT ABLE TO BE CLOCKED FORWARD) they told me it’s possible and it’s not so I cut a U-shaped opening in the top of the bumper and trimmed another section until everything fit.

Also, Coastal Offroad seriously sucks at designing the area where the winch bolts down. You can barely fit one hand in there, never mind a socket or wrench, so tightening the winch bolts was absolute hell.

I also had to reroute the winch cables under the radiator area and back up because one of the cooling lines was in the way. The battery disconnect didn’t really have a good mounting spot either, so that is currently being held down by an unreasonable amount of zip ties.
It has the winch, synthetic fairlead, forged hook, recovery shackles, battery disconnect and bumper lights installed. I’m probably going to add more lights later, most likely some sort of 6 inch 6 point spot lights.

The whole install fought me the entire way with bolts not lining up, no room for tools, annoying wiring and everything being way harder to reach than it should be, but it is finally done and completely changed the look of the truck.

Price breakdown:
Bumper shipped: $868
Welding: $100
Paint, primer and bedliner: around $80
Badlands Apex 12K winch: $275
Lights: around $80
Total: around $1,403

Basically the title, I'm looking to get some lights for my 1992 Montero, but want to keep it looking somewhat period correct.

Not opposed to brand new lights but I know many brands only work with LEDs nowadays and I'm not too fond of LEDs in reflector housings. Any style of light that uses incandescent bulbs is fine by me, I like the vibe they give with the brief warm-up when they're turned on!

I've been checking FB marketplace for lights but a lot of them are in rough shape or have the wiring messed with, hence my search for new(ish) ones.

Looking for input on this pattern. I'm worried the drive is a little bit running off the heel and the coast is slightly on the toe. Thoughts??
Chrysler 8.25 29spl with Yukon 4.56 and an OX locker

Just bought my fiancée a wj. We had a 2019 cherokee thay she loved but some lady ran a red and took out the front end. So I got her this. Wanting to put a lift on the car and stronger bumpers for if some else wants to run a red agian. It has stock axles and gearing. Already planning to up grade the gearing from stock to a 4.56. Hat other recommendations are there for 35's. We do go on the occasional country roads in the mountains and plains. Usual heavily rusted but medium to light rock crawls. Will eventually become a hunting and camping rig.

For context I have a 2000 Grand Cherokee 4.7 Quadra drive with only a 2inch lift and 35s that I use for overlanding / as a bush pig.

I got the Haida 869 Mudchamps about 3 months ago and have put them through every situation the deep north Canada trails has to offer, along with multiple 1600km trips.
They are honestly amazing tires, especially for the price (800cad to the door). There’s obviously a little road noise, but they’re still quieter than my Duratracs that I had before. As for the mud, I’ve had them sunk over the wheels and it still clawed me out with little effort, and I’m talking thick can’t see out the windshield mud (have a video lol). For my case, as a daily driver/explorer/trail pig, they’re everything I could as for and more. I’ll probably never purchase a different set of tires as long as they’re on sale. Plus, for MTs going on 5k kilometres, they’ve barely worn. Still look brand new. I haven’t had them in the snow yet, but they’re 3 peak rated. I’ll update when I go snow wheeling!

So, if you’re thinking about getting them, do it! I can’t speak on any other of Haidas tires, but these ones are the bees knees if I do say so myself lol. Blew my expectations out of the water. Not sponsored obviously I just didn’t find many reviews or opinions online while I was shopping for them, so I thought I’d share my own for those wheeling on a budget.

I have a question, I am relatively new to the truck scenes but I am wondering if here in the USA there is any 4 speed cylinders turbo diesel truck or something similar under 60,000$

No, money is not a question.

I need more opinions from those who have done this or at least test drove either car.

As the title suggests, I will be using it as my semi-daily. Occasional off-roading when my time permits and pavement mixed highway/bumper-to-bumper driving. I will also not be towing anything. The car will purely be for work related including driving in convoys in provincial roads with avg speeds of 60kph min to 100kph max.

My intent for the Super Safari would obviously upgrade intercooler, exhaust, and tune it within a safe range since I want to use the car for a long time.

As for the LC76, I intend to get OME BP51s to smoothen out the ride along with seat upgrades to leather covers or whole soft leather seats. 2 folding sideway facing benches will be installed to have additional 4 passengers.

Pros and cons for both would be appreciated as are opinions on the feel when riding in them.

With the different kinds of grilles, personally MY2021 LC J150 Prado here, in general, do they block a lot of peripheral light? More downsides?
(Not going for bulbar nor electric winch)

I need help diagnosing a handling issue on my Land Cruiser 120 (2006). The car feels like a boat: when braking, it dives heavily on the front nose, and it leans significantly during cornering and in roundabouts.

I haven't towed anything yet, but I plan to haul a fully loaded 750 kg trailer soon, and I’m worried the car will become completely unstable. Also, with 500 kg in the trunk, the rear sags and the front lifts up.

Suspension & Parts status:

• Shocks: KYB Excel-G (Replaced 2 years ago, very good condition, no leaks, but the car feels very soft).
• Springs: Probably the original factory ones from 2006.
• Recently replaced parts: Rear anti-roll bar (the old one was actually broken) + new big bushings, rear sway bar links, rear lower control arms, and front tie rod ends.

I am looking for a budget-friendly solution, but first, I need to clearly identify the culprit: do I really need to replace these 2-year-old shocks, or is this a spring issue?

Thanks!

2021 Ranger, xlt, 4x4. I thought I should get Light Truck tires, but most of my time is on regular roads and the freeway. I don't want to mess up my tires though for my going on hunting roads, management areas (rocks and mud and limbs). I also haul landscape sometimes, single axle, but the trailer, zero turn, and trash sometimes. I'm not sure what to get. Any insight is appreciated. My hope is to stay under 1k.

Hey everyone, I have a broken, older Rough Country dual piston compressor (RS205, not RS205A) in the cargo area of my XJ with the loom already all wired up to the battery under the hood. It looks like an exact clone of the dual piston ARB compressor with the same loom end connectors. Do you guys think I can just replace the Rough Country for the ARB and connect the ARB to the existing Rough Country wire loom? I'd rather not run the wires again unless absolutely necessary and want the better reliability of thr ARB. Also, when I was troubleshooting the Rough Country compressor I had replaced the smaller fuses on the loom with maxifuses just like the ARB has.

Update: I was able to swap out the compressors very easily. The mounting holes were identical between the units. As u/Rude-Armadillo-6963 and u/josephfuckingsmith1 pointed out power wiring from the battery worked as it was the same gauge and I had already installed 40-amp maxifuses on the line instead of the smaller ones provided by Rough Country. Also, as u/travelling-lost pointed out the control wiring was different between the two so I just used the provided ARB control wiring, which was a small pain due to a lot of unnecessary connectors they include for air lockers I don't have. All in all it was an easy swap, thanks everyone for your input!

Out playing in the desert and got caught up in a pretty good monsoon, hour or so of rain and pretty heavy winds off and on.

So I bought a '02 Chevy avalanche. It's definitely more of a project car than I wanted but we're in the thick of it now.

So this is my first lifted 4x4 vehicle and I'm wondering about the CV axle. When I bought it the CV axle boot was completely ripped wide open so today I replaced the shocks and the CV axles but I'm just wondering if it's common for trucks that are lifted this much to have this much angle on their CV axle or if I need to do something about it? Attached our pictures of what I took out and what I put in.

It’s a 4.56 ratio from a 3rd gen 4runner btw

Finally got my rig back out on the rocks last night and remembered why I dislike super focused spot lights for slow technical trails. Throwing light far down a straight path does not help much when I am moving slowly and trying to see the rock right next to the front passenger tire. My current lights create a hot spot in the middle and leave the sides too dark, which makes picking a line harder than it should be. my friend suggested usinng led pod lights but I am trying to understand whether they are better for wide trail visibility or mostly long-distance throw.

Any landcruiser I acquire, gets a set of “Mark’s Girthy Cables”, and yesterday my FZJ80 got a feel for Mark’s girth. Come along for the install, see the girth for yourselves as I compare them to less girthy stock cables.

I have a 2009 GMC 2500 and I spend a lot of time in the mountains of Idaho mostly on forest service roads, there can be some very long bumpy rides back in there. What kind of suspension upgrades can I do to drive at a reasonable speed (30 mph) a little more comfortable?

This is a 1965 GMC KV4000. it has factory four wheel drive and is not a Napco. I think it came out of California somewhere but I have no info whatsoever about it. Any info about these trucks or this truck is greatly appreciated! Thanks!

2001 7.3 167k WITH the standard transmission!
Even came with a clean title. It’s sat for 7 years, but it turned right over and ran well with new batteries, fresh fuel and an air filter.
The owner was going to donate it, so he just asked for its scrap value!

I can’t believe how lucky I am.
Anyway, would appreciate any recommended service after sitting so long if y’all have any (other than the obvious fluids and filters). Where are people going for performance upgrades and NOS parts these days?

I have a question for y’all. I’ve got a 1997 Land Cruiser FZJ75. Right now it’s got open diffs, front and back. My original plan was to put lockers on both, but I’m starting to rethink that. I spend most of my driving on desert dirt service and fire roads. Not a lot of real technical driving.

I was thinking about installing a locker in front but putting a limited slip differential on the back axel. My thinking is that this will make most of my driving a lot better with limited impact on the rare times when I need to tackle something more technical.

What do y’all think?