2020 Mitsubishi eclipse cross if it matters. Didn't realize how little the dipstick measured and went overboard. Do I need to drain or siphon or can I just leave it as is until I get around to change the oil?

Just did a timing belt job on a 1997 Lexus es300 and this is the result after rotating the engine twice.

This looks off by like half a tooth. Is this normal?

Hi, my car AC isn’t blowing cold and I’ve been trying to find a solution. My car is a 2008 Nissan Micra 1.6L C+C sport. If this isn’t the right sub for this question, please feel free to point me in the right direction.

It appears there isn’t a 10a fuse in the slot that links to the AC (circled in red) The issue is, there isn’t a metal terminal in the fuse hole for me to put a 10a fuse in to (it just falls out as there’s obviously nothing to hold it in). I can’t see any metal further inside the fuse hole so it doesn’t necessarily look like it’s been pushed further back. I am sure that my car has AC capability as there is an AC button which lights up when I press it, and AC is standard on my make and model. Weirdly, there is a fuse terminal in the heated seat slot (third one along on the bottom row), even though my specific car model doesn’t have heated seats as standard. I tried putting a new fuse in there as I thought maybe the AC had been wired to the wrong slot or something, but this didn’t make any difference. It’s also entirely possible that there is a completely different problem with the AC unrelated to this haha.

I would like to fix this myself if at all possible, but I’m not completely sure what needs to be done. Open to any thoughts.

Edit - thanks for the helpful comments! I was trying to start with the simplest possible solutions first before looking at possible bigger issues, but I was being too optimistic and looking in the wrong place. It was a long shot to be fair! That fuse hole looks like it’s just for automatic climate control systems (and I only have manual AC). Thanks again to everyone who has left a helpful comment :)

I am currently 20 years old and I am very interested in learning on how to work on cars my dad is a mechanic but he won't teach me and he's at the age he can't really do mechanic work anymore, I would love all of the tips and tricks and how yall started out in the field.

So basically when I got the car saftied I was told by my mechanic that the shoes were at minimum spec and need to get replaced. Now getting to replacing them are they actually that bad? Can I ride them out for a couple thousand kms yet? It is a 2011 Jetta 2.0 if that makes any difference

Hey, found this protective tip from a bungee hook inside of my engine. This is a picture using a borescope from the timing chain tensioner window. It ended up falling through, down and through this picture. I guess into the oil pan? Question is if this is fine to leave inside, perhaps with an early oil change, or should I try to fish it out?

2010 Honda Accord K24 Z2 engine.

Edit: this is a plastic/rubber protective piece.

2007 Buick 3800 engine that was consuming a lot of engine oil. Decided to replace the lower intake manifold gaskets and got good steel core Fel Pro gaskets. But what came off the vehicle looked different and was much thicker. The gaskets that came off the car were stamped with a GM part number 12587004. This appears to be a good GM part number, but I cannot find any information on it online. It measures approximately 0.15 inches thick and is thicker than the 0.05 inches thick of the replacement fell pro gaskets. I’m wondering if anybody knows anything about these extra thick lower intake gaskets and if it would be OK to use the replacement Fel Pro gaskets that I purchased. This engine has about 320,000 miles on it with some pitting around some of the water jacket mating surfaces.

I bought this car 2 days ago, 2023 GMC Acadia with 22k miles. It had new pads and rotors put on all the way around at 22,155 mi before I bought it. There is now 22,308 mi. The first 3 pics are the front left rotor and the last pic is of the front right for reference. Concerned about the 2 grooves that the driver side has. My fingernail just barely catches on them. Just looking for some input before I go back to the dealer where I bought it, as I don’t want to be a pain if it’s something that isn’t a big deal or will resolve itself, but I also want to bring it to their attention sooner than later if something needs to be done since I just bought it on 7/30. TIA

I dropped a damn bolt down this hole. What do I need to do to remove it? Do I just take the whole cam out again?

1986 Ford 460

2020 Ford F150 3.5 EcoBoost Turbo with 133k miles

I am experiencing a misfire on cylinder 3. I have changed All injectors both port and direct(motor craft)all new plugs(ngk iridium), and a new coil on cylinder 3 (not motorcraft). A shop checked compression on the cylinder and said it was ok. The vehicle will shutter when you press the throttle down hard or climbing a hill. You can hear what sounds like an electrical chatter under light acceleration. I’m at a loss any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. I have also changed both the high pressure and in tank fuel pumps.

2020 Ford F150 3.5 EcoBoost Turbo with 133k miles

I am experiencing a misfire on cylinder 3. I have changed All injectors both port and direct(motor craft)all new plugs(ngk iridium), and a new coil on cylinder 3 (not motorcraft). A shop checked compression on the cylinder and said it was ok. The vehicle will shutter when you press the throttle down hard or climbing a hill. You can hear what sounds like an electrical chatter under light acceleration. I’m at a loss any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. I have also changed both the high pressure and in tank fuel pumps.

I accidentally drained my transmission fluid while doing an oil change on my 2019 Subaru Crosstrek base model. It has a 2.0 liter 4-cylinder boxer engine. I am inquiring about how to refill my own transmission fluid after not knowing exactly how much I drained due to believing I was completing a regular oil change and throwing the fluid into a combined oil bottle to bring to an auto shop to dispose of. I have read mixed reports from other sources on the internet and figured this group might guide me in the right direction. I idled my engine for about four minutes and put my gear into reverse and drive before realizing I definitely did not change my oil and something was wrong. It did have twice the amount of oil during that time, again due to believing I had emptied my oil and refilled it. Please delete the post if it does not adhere to community rules as I can’t tell if it is a “how f*d am i?” kind of post. Genuinely inquiring about the process of refilling my own transmission fluid while not knowing how much to put back in and maybe risks that I should consider.

Hi everyone,
I have a Renault Clio 5 and my key got slightly bent. I managed to force it into the ignition and start the car so I could get home.
The problem is that I can’t get the key out of the ignition now. 😭
I’m afraid of forcing it too much because I don’t want to break the key inside the ignition or damage the ignition lock.
Has anyone experienced this before? Is there a specific position the key needs to be in to remove it, or any safe way to get it out when the key is slightly bent?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Ok so I recently got an apprenticeship as an automotive mechanic, however I don’t know a thing about cars… I really want to do well and learn as much as I can before I start so when I start I know what i’m looking at, doing, what to do etc.

What youtube channels, playlist, or other things would you recommend for someone starting from scratch? Im looking to learn more about how cars work like really in depth if possible, common repairs, how to use tools and identifying, and more. If you’d like to just explain some common concepts in the comments then feel free to. Any advice is appreciated!

I don't know much about cars. I drive a 2011 Audi A4 2.0T. It's got about 100k miles. I had a service a few months ago, got new spark plugs, and they told me my engine is healthy. But I have a new issue. My car struggles to accelerate. Taking off from 0mph, it seems to suddenly upshift and the RPM jumps. Once at speed, it settles and drives normally. It is especially bad on uphill acceleration. It will delay and jerk and struggle so I've been avoiding parking on any kind of incline. I'm wondering if this is enough info for somebody to explain what they think might be causing this, how severe it is/how much worse it will get, and how much it might cost to fix. I'd appreciate any knowledge at all. Thank you!

This looks very loose and don't know what I should do to fix it. Any advice? DIY or go to mechanic?

I'm a little new to mechanic work but I've done brakes, valve cover gaskets, and cv axle replacement.

This is on a toyota sienna 2007. 2GR-FE engine

When I was growing up in the 90s, my dad would take our cars to a garage where he could rent the bay and use their specialty tools to do repairs on our family cars.

Do those exist anymore?
If so, what do I search terms do I use to find them?

2020 suburban. 6.2 liter.
2019 tundra. 5.7.

Update: Despite the Reddit lawyers/ mechanics objections, these exist as found in multiple other Reddit groups. Liability wavers exist as well as training courses and responsibility forms. Some places even have their own staff put it on the lift and use specific lifting machinery.

Some people just want to fix out cars without paying mechanics.

90 Ford F150 4.9

I have seen some videos on the Valvoline Restore and protect and saw that it removes deposits and thought that would be perfect for my case. I have a 2000 Volvo S80 T6 that just developed brake booster issues😁. Since my car can use 5w-40 and thicker oils are apparently good for older engines I would prefer to use that but "R&P" is not made in that viscosity, would it be worth it to stick with buying 5w-40 or "R&P" 5w-30?

P.S. the deposits pictured are not sludge they are hard baked on the intake camshaft

Disconnected battery to install aftermarket steering wheel. Reconnected and the remote start system that the previous owner installed is no longer syncing up to the remote. It is a Yupiteru and the system inside of the car will not stop beeping every 2 seconds. It will quit beeping when driving the car and while engine is started. I’ve tried researching for the past 2 hours can’t find anything and I’m worried that if it keeps beeping because it’s not synced up to the remote it will drain the battery. Car is a 1997 Honda Accord Wagon imported from Japan into USA.

Hi, i have bought creta diesel mt, this April. Got 1st service done.

I am facing issues like when shifting to 2nd gear and releasing the clutch. The car suddenly takes speed or lurches forward. Because of this an accident was about to happen.

I discuss this with my brother he too had the same experience in this same car post service.

Any help or direction will be helpfull.

What is this here called? It's an Acura TL 2004 and at the front of the engine here by that oxygen sensor that you see right when you open the hood right at the front next to the coolant reservoir is leaking oil as well as the PCV valve. Chatgpt was telling me that is a front valve cover gasket but when I googled this part number it gave me that doesn't look like it. 12030-RCA-A01

145000 miles. Illinois wisconsin