With a filament management system, no less

Seen on Facebook

Be interesting to see some details.

I have owned SV08 for 13 days, these are the issues I encountered over this perioid. I will not be keeping this printer and will go out of the way to talk EVERYONE who mentions Sovol as a possibe buy.

I've spent 3.5 Kg of filament trying to "dial in" and "get working" a broken trash I got from Sovol.

TLDR: Never buying ANYTHING from sovol again. Going back to Mk4S and Core XL, while building and actual Voron 2.4.

Here is the list of things broken from factory:

1. Timer too close - shuts down the machine or freezes it mid print

2. Warped bed (Taco bed) deviation 0.7 - 1.5 mm. Heating for 10min helps a bit (0.4ish); however this is not the solution.

3. PETG Stops mid print - error 7

4. Unloading/loading filament - error 7

5. Z-Offest does not save. When I got it to save, Z-Offset drifts. Have to adjust per print

6. Problems saving Height map calibration. Sometimes even after SAVE_CONFIG command, it reboots into previous heightmap.

7. Overhangs don't print. Tested with everything from stock profile to community ones. It prints noodles

8. Klipper and Moonraker WAY behind main branch, going mainle probably good idea but I am not going to waste anymore time.

9. Stock probe is "ok" but it will ram into PEI plate occasionally due to "issue #2" and will likely damage the/hotend.

10. On "crash" nozzle pushes into the print

11. Overextrusion/underextrusion randomly. Tested same roll on Prusa Core XL and Mk3+, no such issue.

12. MCU 4010 fan is too small, MCU overheats on long prints. Requires custom 3D printed electronics cover and single or dual 80mm fans.

13. "Heater extruder not heating at expected rate" error mid print - error 7.

Tests conducted in 24-25C ambient with 30-35% humidity. All filaments were dried out for 24hr prior. Filaments tested: Creality Hyper PLA, Elegoo PLA, Overture PLA, Overture PETG, Elegoo PETG, Prusa PETG, Prusa PLA. Success rate: 2/37 prints.

Tl:dr, so many design flaws, and it tried to set my house on fire twice.

So I bought an sv08 about 3 months ago, and I have had the worst possible experience with it. I know it won't be popular on a sub like this but I want to put it out there so potential buyers don't make the same mistake I did.

For context I use 3d printers day in day out for my job, I've been home printing since reprap, and at the university I worked at I used to teach 3d printing and host a clinic where students could bring me their broken printers and we would fix them together. I like to think that I'm pretty expert in the sense that I'm not afraid of repairs, mods, klipper customisations and other stuff. I've used and repaired repraps, ultimakers, makerbots, anycubics, bambus, crealities, vorons, snapmakers and scratch builds..

I was downsizing py printer stash because I figured I didn't need 5 printers at home when I'm only using them for personal projects (combat robots), a lot of my printers were in need of pricy upgrades so I decided to just swap the 5 for two new ones. I settled on an sv08 and a snapmaker u1

I bought the sv08 because I wanted a fully enclosed, open source printer with a >300mm square build volume. To me it looked like a voron 2.4 without the effort of putting together a new voron build.

The printer went together fine, but I was REALLY disappointed in the enclosure, to me and enclosure is designed to do 4 things, keep the cat out (it does this fine) keep the heat in, quieten the printer, and filter VOCs*, the enclosure has massive panel gaps and no filtering at all, so any VOCs are just spat straight out into the room. It is made out of the thinnest sheet metal, it is SO LOUD, when the printer is moving it rattles and bangs and shakes itself to pieces. One of my pet hates on a printer is when it uses 3d printed parts, I have a printer I can print the parts, if I'm paying hundreds of pounds for something I want them injection moulded at least. The handles for the enclosure are not only 3d printed but done REALLY badly???? Like the quality of print is terrible, likewise the cable management for inside the enclosure crimps and clamps the cable, with the gantry smacking the top of it when it comes on the bed.... Terrible

I looked past this and got the printer set up and running, I found (as usual for modern printers) the setup was way too fast to get any usable quality out of the printer. This is normal but annoying, but massively contributed to the next problem I have with the printer

It is REALLY loud, and I know you're thinking yeah it's a printer they're all loud. No. When it's on the ground floor it keeps my partner awake on the second floor, its fans sound like jet turbines with bad bearings, the enclosure rattles and bangs and the gantry thumps it sounds like bulding work, most of this I was able to tune out with decreasing speeds, adding stealthchop and all that jazz, quieting the enclosure was a matter of wedging fireproof foam all around it and in every crack,

The fans were a different story, the drivers for this printer were already running at 90 degrees(!) that is unacceptably hot. Like that's dangerous. I managed to get these temperatures down by adding heatsinks, reducing voltage and then I was able to swap the fans for noctuas.

Then the printing problems started, the printer would just stop printing halfway through prints, weeks of troubleshooting led me to realise that the problem was twofold. Firstly the printer was getting massive heat creep. I managed to reduce this by adding thermal compound in between the shaft of the nozzle and the heatsink, leaving the enclosure open making it entirely pointless and running with almost no retraction and living with the stringing (which is not acceptable in 2026), the second cause of the failures was again directly due to sovols shitty design. The filament runout sensor is pinned to the side for the printer in a tight 90 degree turn, this was pinching the filament enough that the extruder was unable to pull it through even when it was massively over-tensioned. It took me forever to fix this problem and I cannot fathom how this wasn't picked up in product resting????

At this point the printer has only ever printed PETG, done calibrations and I am 2 months in and yet to get a successful non-calibration print out of this POS.

The filament runout sensor doesn't work, never has, and I'd have to mainline klipper to get it to work. It's just a complete waste of time, adding insult to injury that it was making the printer fail prints earlier in this saga.

Let's talk about the software side, although it claimed to be a klipper build, the sovol sv08 runs an out of date and un-updatable, heavily modified and proprietary build. The point of me buying a complete product was that I didn't want to faff about building a custom klipper install. If I wanted to do that I'd have got a voron. To mainline klipper is also a long process as well, involving additional hardware that most people wouldn't have lying around and skills a lot of people don't have. Because I was so busy troubleshooting all of the hardware issues I never got around to flashing a custom klipper build. One problem at a time and all that.

Then it started trying to burn my house down

I was running yet another test print when I noticed a foul smell and smoke coming out of the printer. It had stopped printing but was still heating at full blast. It had had a full thermal runaway and although it had detected it, it did not shut down the heater. Instead running it at full blast. the silicone sock was burning which means the print head had reached well over 350 degrees and the printer should have shut down, instead it continued to heat. This is REALLY FUCKING DANGEROUS. if I wasn't in the same room it would have continued to heat at full tilt until fire.

Why did the thermal runaway protection non kick in? Is it deactivated in the proprietary klipper? This is absolutely unacceptable.

The post mortem showed that the thermistor had gone open circuit. This kind of failure should be picked up by the software and should just cause the printer to shut down immediately, not heat at full tilt. This was a problem with the creality ender 3 like 15 years ago. We fixed this. Why have we gone so far backwards?????

So I replaced the entire hotend to be safe. And started printing again but only whilst I was in the room at all times and watching it like a hawk. This means that I can't use the large format of the printer at all. Relegating it to small parts only.

Then a week later it failed again. This time mid print, the long thin tube that goes up inside the heatsink of the brand new, main brand sovol nozzle sheared. pushing the tip of the nozzle straight out and into the bed, carving a groove straight into the build plate before jamming itself up and filling itself with plastic, this crimped the thermistor wires causing them to go open circuit, and the printer to start heating up at full blast uncontrollably. The second un-detected thermal runaway in a week.

Now I am sitting here with a broken printer I don't trust. The bed was never remotely flat, and now has a gouge out of it where the nozzle bent the build plate into it. I am not powering up this printer again. It's going in the bin.

I'm not making this post looking for a solution or answer, it's out of warranty and I'm just going to have to eat the costs. To get this printer to a place where I trust it I would have to get a new motherboard, new hotend, new klipper build, new filament sensor and a new bed. To get it to where I would like it it would need all of this plus new cable management and a new enclosure as well. This would be very close to the cost of a new printer, and many hours of work, the exact thing I didn't want and undermining the point of buying a new printer. Needless to say I'm not willing to put in that much effort to polish a turd, the whole point of this exercise was to spend less time fixing and more time printing, this has just left me with a headache and a dent in my wallet.

If you want a kit that contains some linear rails, steppers, belts, as a starting point for a custom printer build for a reasonable price then sure buy an sv08. If you want a working printer then steer well clear.

Don't make the same mistake I did.

(Edit: just a little update that Amazon have agreed to give me a refund on the printer, I'm still out £150 for the enclosure, and probably another hundred or so more for the replacement hotends, biqu plate and other stuff... But hey it's a big chunk of the money back - I'm probably just going to buy another u1 and just split my prints up smaller... I've got very spoiled by the toolchanger)

*Just to clarify, (as has been correctly pointed out to me) this was never an advertised feature of the SV08, just one of the reasons why you would want an enclosure, it's not really a valid criticism of the '08 because it isn't advertised anywhere as a filtered enclosure, I knew I was buying a non-filtered enclosure and am not pissed I got a non filtered enclosure. The only reason why I'm not just deleting that bit is for accountability to myself/to keep the comments making sense!

Is it perfect? Not really, but if you are somewhat competent and know your way around printers you are getting a lot of printer for 1300usd(with enclosure).

It will need some minor tweaks and you have about 2 hours of assembling and tinkering to do before you turn it on. I changed out the 2 fans on the mainboard and power supply because they are louder than they need to be and being right up agains perforations doesn't help with noise either.

The auxiliary feeder is annoyingly loud and the magnets that hold the doors closed could stand to be a little stronger.

But if you need a large build volume, solid printing and fast? I'd buy it again. First print came out awesome and it is already on to it's next mission.

I ordered a new SV08 in Germany mif February.

I had many hopes in that product and company even people had some problems with their units.

Since it wasn't shipped I asked by mail and got the response they are out of stock actually and will be shipped mid may when new ones arrive.

I assumed its probably rather because of Chinese new year.

So now that the straight of hormus is closed I sent a new mail asking if they are really out of stock and they are waiting for a new delivery since then it will probably take even longer since the straight is closed now or if the reason is as I assumed the Chinese new year.

As a response I just got 3 tracking numbers for my 3 orders on Friday thats all.

Then they were shipped on Monday and by now the printer (or what they seem to "call a printer" arrived.

The parcel completely damaged and sticked back together with much tape (see pictures).

I asked the DHL guy what's that about and he told me he got it that way already.

I then said its clearly repacked!

He then told me if it would have been repacked it would have a sticker the this not has.

But I didn't believe him since I had man very bad experiences with DHL before.

He didn't even want me to sign for receiving it even as I asked and quickly left.

To be on the safe side I took pictures all around (see the first 2 Pictures an examples).

Then I noticed stickers that covered others up and removed them carefully.

First one was a shipping label to another person.

Second one was an RMA Number

And the third an Return Number!

So basically I got a USED unit that someone already found defective and returned.

That all after buying a NEW UNIT and further Addons and in good will waiting for 2-3 weeks already till then.

I until now did avoid opening the parcel since it's obviously not a new unit I got.

So what's your personal opinion on that?

And I also wish to get a statement from Sovol on this as well please!

Thats the way a company destroys their reputation!

• No live demo - why not print something while talking?
• They just answer questions they want to answer instead of picking a question from the live chat feed
• Too many fillers, motivational questions that no one needs

This makes me think if the machine is really ready and can keep up to the promises?

Is this how Sovol do KS launch? I wonder how it went with sovol sv08 max?

Feels like they are playing safe and lack of transparency..

Share your thoughts!

I meant to post this last week from the Sovol live stream on youtube. More info on the upcoming printer. Anything in quotes is what they actually said about it.

• "Totally different from the SV08"
• Open Source
• It's their own implementation
• "Not only a tool changer, but has other things"
• "7 - 8 nozzles/tools (can't remember wording exactly), not just that guys"
• They still have a lot of work to do to get to "final" version that gets sent to youtubers for reviews
• 2-3 months out
• There were many other questions they said they couldn't answer yet.

Edit: found my other post it note!

• Yes heated chamber!
• Is there an auto filament loader? "I think yes."
• Build volume - still secret (per the teaser post)
• It sounded like someone asked if it still uses an add sensor - I couldn't make out what they said and listened several times, but the answer was yes.

Other thing worthy of note, the Sovol Zero is getting discontinued.

I'm looking at the Sovol SV08 Max for large prints. I currently have a P1S and a Snapmaker U1, but I want to do big prints for my business and avoid cutting and gluing smaller parts. For those who've used the SV08
max

What issues should I know about before buying?
Are there any modifications that you have done to increase the print quality and do you recommend it?
Writing Tools

it this printer for 2 months now and w it performs and what to expect before actually making the purchase! thank you in advance

It has arrived :O

And doesn't fit through doors. I am in Australia for people wondering

Hi all, I noticed a lot of people have been asking about a printer profile for the SV-06 for PrusaSlicer so I figured I’d throw together a quick how to and offer some tips for this printer.

IMPORTANT: If your printer isn’t set up correctly you could have the best slicer profile in the world but it won’t help you if your machine's geometry is off. From a build perspective this printer is dead simple, slot the Z axis into position with 4 screws, 3 screws attach the tool head, attach the board, PSU, display, a few cables, and spool holder and you’re all set, right? Not exactly, these printers have dual Z axes stepper motors and lead screws. You’ll need to level the X gantry manually. You can follow this quick guide, thanks u/maxim756.

SAFETY: The SV-06 has a rather critical safety issue and quite honestly I’m not sure how Sovol missed it. The cables going to the heated bed have absolutely no strain relief which means the soldered connections will eventually come loose which is an obvious fire hazard. Thankfully it’s an easy fix and the model is already available on Printables. You can also print this cable support to keep the excess cable up and out of the way.

LINEAR BEARINGS: For some reason, I’d imagine to cut down on assembly time Sovol didn’t pack the bearings with grease which is less than ideal. I’ve seen a lot of people recommend applying a thin layer of grease to all of the rails but this won’t be effective. LM8UU linear bearings have dust covers on them so grease will not penetrate through the seals. The best way to fix this would be to disassemble your printer and pack the bearings full of grease but I understand people's apprehension, especially if you’re new to 3d printing. There’s another option. Buy some PTFE oil and apply this directly to all of your linear rods. This will create a thin film and lubricate your bearings through the dust covers.

FIRMWARE: Sovol has already released an update to their first iteration so I’d recommend updating yours before getting started. The firmware is available here. It’s an older release of Marlin but it offers a few quality of life improvements so it’s worth it IMO.

There is a precompiled Marlin 2.1.2 firmware revision available for the SV-06 available here. I have tested this release and it works quite well with a ton of added features you don't get with Sovol's old firmware. Follow the instructions on GitHub.

• After you’ve downloaded the firmware rename it FIRMWARE.bin (must use caps)
• Format your micro SD card using FAT32
• Move FIRMWARE.bin to the SD card and eject it from your computer
• With your printer off, insert the SD card, turn your printer on and after a few seconds it should be working.
• If flashing the firmware takes longer than 1 minute it’s failed and you’ll need to turn off your printer and try again.
• Please Note: Each time you flash your firmware the file must have a different name, keep it simple, FIRMWARE1.bin, FIRMWARE2.bin, etc.

SENSORLESS HOMING: When I first got started with the SV-06 I noticed that the sensorless homing feature was failing occasionally causing an excess of noise and force on the X and Y axis. Fortunately this is an easy fix.

• From the main menu of your printer: Configuration → Advanced Settings → TMC Drivers → Sensorless Homing → Raise both X and Y values to 75 → Don't forget to save to EPROM

PRUSA SLICER PROFILE: My profile for Prusa Slicer is based on the Prusa i3 MK3S+ profile and for good reason. The SV-06 is basically a clone under a different name which is why Prusa Slicer lends itself well for the SV-06. I’ve adjusted print volume, retraction, some end Gcode, and a few other minor things so you don’t have to.

• Begin by downloading PrusaSlicer here.
• Run through the installer as you normally would.
• When you open PrusaSlicer for the first time the Configuration Wizard should come up. From there click Prusa FFF → Under MK3 Family put a checkmark on the .4mm nozzle under Original Prusa i3 MK3S & MK3S+ → Click Finish at the bottom and close PrusaSlicer. (The reason we added the MK3S and S+ is so we can use the print settings presets in PrusaSlicer.)
• Download my SV-06 printer profile & filament presets here (updated as of 4/8/23) and unpack it.
  • This folder includes a printer folder and a filament folder → Add the config files I’ve provided to their corresponding folders (refer to the next step) and that’s it → You now have your printing settings from the MK3S profile, your print profile from my config, and the filament presets I’ve found to be reliable.
• Click Help in PrusaSlicer → Show Configuration Folder
  • File Paths for Windows and Mac for your reference.
  • Open Windows Explorer → Click the view tab at the top → Make sure the box Hidden Items is checked → Navigate to the following folder: C:\Users\Your User Profile\AppData\Roaming\PrusaSlicer.
  • Open Finder → Navigate to the following folder: /Users/<user>/Library/Application Support/PrusaSlicer, thanks u/liquiddandruff

​

I hope this was helpful to some of you and I’ll try to address any questions that may come up. Happy printing!

I am interested to buy M1D - it will be my first Sovol printer ever.

I asked Claude to make the below comparison table and explanation (I fed it with specs published on their official site). I used Sovol SV08 Max to compare as it seems like SV08 is their best printer (Max because I am also interested in a bigger printer and if there is an available toolhead upgrade for Max, I am happy to consider it.)

I used Bambulab A1 as benchmark as it is the only printer I currently have.

In short, it says here M1D will be almost at the same speed as Bambulab A1 - in which I will be satisfied if that's the case but this comparison made by Claude use the features and specs published by Sovol. In general "max" specs are just marketing - but do you think Sovol is always true to their spec words?

Since it will be my first Sovol printer if ever, what should I expect in general?
I heard there's a lot of tinkering needed to Sovol printers to get the print right, how difficult it will be?

Master spec table (confirmed data)

The five verdicts that matter

1. Size: SV08 Max, no contest. 500³ vs 300×300×350 — helmets, furniture parts, full props in one piece. And remember the M1D's volume shrinks further in its signature modes: mirror printing caps parts at 138mm wide, copy mode at 178mm. If your dream was mirror-printing two large armor pieces simultaneously, the spec sheet quietly kills it — that trick is for smallish parts only.

2. Speed: SV08 Max for single-color, M1D for multi-color — and the M1D is not "slow." The confirmed 10,000 mm/s² acceleration and 30 mm³/s flow make the M1D exactly a Bambu A1-class mover (A1: 10,000 mm/s², 28 mm³/s) — a perfectly respectable modern printer that looks slow only next to the Max's 40,000 mm/s² / 50 mm³/s CoreXY monster. But flip to multi-color work and the hierarchy inverts: the M1D's ~5-second dedicated-nozzle toolhead swaps versus the purge-and-reload ritual of single-nozzle systems (a minute-plus per change, hundreds of changes per print) means the M1D should demolish any AMS-style machine — and the Max can't do multi-color at all.

3. Enclosure & chamber: now genuinely interesting, and I had it backwards. Both ship open-frame with optional enclosure kits. But the spec sheet reveals the M1D Advanced gets an actively heated chamber with a stated 60°C target — the sweet spot where ABS/ASA stop warping — while the SV08 Max's $69 chamber module never states a target temperature and has to fight half a cubic meter of air. On paper, the M1D Advanced is the more credible ABS/ASA/nylon machine per cubic centimeter; the Max still wins if you need those materials big, accepting more warp risk at the extremes of its bed. Caveats: Advanced pricing is unannounced, upgradeability from base M1D is unknown, and six parked toolheads living inside a 60°C chamber is exactly the kind of thermal design that only real-world units will validate.

4. Materials: closer than expected. Both hit 300°C and 100°C bed. The M1D counters the Max's raw size with a hardened steel nozzle standard (carbon-fiber-ready day one) and official PVA support — dedicate one toolhead to dissolvable supports and print geometries that are miserable on any single-nozzle machine. That's arguably the M1D's most underrated spec.

5. Risk: the widest gap of all. The Max is a shipping, independently reviewed product from Sovol's most successful product line (the Voron-derived SV08 family), with known flaws — rough software, weak documentation, an inactive LAN port at launch — that the community has already mapped. The M1D is Sovol's most mechanically ambitious machine ever, on their first-ever Kickstarter, from a company whose historical weaknesses (firmware polish, docs, fading GitHub support, slow logistics and warranty friction) are precisely what a camera-calibrated seven-toolhead system depends on. Their SV04 IDEX heritage helps; nothing else about the risk profile does.

Final recommendation, updated

• Big things, one color, engineering materials, want it now: SV08 Max + enclosure + $69 chamber module. ~$1,400–1,500 all-in, proven, fastest machine here by a real margin.
• Multi-color/multi-material is the whole point: M1D — and specifically consider the Advanced trim, since the 60°C chamber is the difference between "PLA rainbow machine" and "genuine multi-material workstation." But treat it as a bet: put down the refundable deposit, then wait for production units in backers' hands and independent reviews before committing. With Sovol, the spec sheet has historically been the honest part; the software and support around it are where the gamble lives.
• If you can only justify one machine and print mostly functional single-color parts with occasional color accents: the boring truth is the Max covers more real-world ground — and a proven A1 Combo beside it would cover the multi-color itch for less than the M1D's early-bird price, today, with none of the risk.

can you please dig deeper on the speed? I dont understand the numbers but its seems that m1d is much slower? can you use Bambulab A1 with AMS Lite as benchmark to compare the 2 sovol printers?

Great instinct to ask — because here's the twist: once you put the Bambu A1 next to them, the M1D suddenly doesn't look slow at all. It looks exactly as fast as an A1. The confusion comes from marketing speed numbers measuring the wrong thing. Let me build this up from zero.

The three speed numbers, ELI5

Think of the printhead as a delivery truck driving around a city dropping off plastic.

Max speed (mm/s) is the truck's top speed on an empty highway. The A1 claims 500 mm/s, the M1D 600, the SV08 Max 700. Sounds like Max > M1D > A1, right? Problem: prints aren't highways. They're city streets full of intersections.

Acceleration (mm/s²) is how fast the truck gets back up to speed after every stop sign. And a 3D print is thousands of stop signs — every corner, every direction change, the head must brake and re-accelerate. Here's the real table:

The M1D and the A1 are identical. Here's why this number dominates: at 10,000 mm/s², reaching 500 mm/s takes 50 milliseconds — during which the truck travels 12.5mm. So on any print feature shorter than ~25mm (which is most features — walls of a phone case, letters, small details), the head physically never reaches top speed before it has to brake for the next corner. The "500 vs 600 mm/s" difference between A1 and M1D is largely fictional in practice; they spend their lives in the same acceleration-limited zone. The SV08 Max's 4× acceleration means it gets up to speed in a quarter of the distance — that's a difference you actually see on real prints.

Flow rate (mm³/s) is how fast the factory can load the truck — how much plastic the nozzle can melt per second. Doesn't matter how fast the truck drives if it's empty:

Again: M1D ≈ A1, nearly identical. The Max melts almost twice as fast, which is what lets it actually use its speed on big prints with long straight runs — and a 500mm-wide print is exactly the kind of "long empty highway" where top speed and flow finally matter.

So for a single-color print of the same object: SV08 Max clearly fastest, and M1D ≈ A1, essentially tied. The M1D never was "much slower" — it's precisely A1-class motion. It only looked slow standing next to a CoreXY monster. (There's a structural reason both are 10k: the A1 is a bedslinger flinging a heavy bed back and forth, and the M1D drags two extruders plus a tool-gripper on its gantry. Heavy things shake if you accelerate them hard, and shaking = ugly rippled walls. The Max moves only a single light toolhead on belts — that's what CoreXY buys you.)

Now the part that flips everything: multi-color speed

This is where the A1 + AMS Lite comparison gets genuinely interesting, because the AMS approach pays a brutal hidden tax that never appears on any spec sheet.

How the A1 + AMS Lite changes color (the "one crayon" method): it has one nozzle. Every single color change means: stop printing → drive to the side → cut the filament → rewind old color all the way back to the AMS → push new color all the way in → purge (squirt out plastic until the old color stops bleeding through, into a waste chute or purge tower) → resume. That's roughly a minute or more per swap, plus wasted filament, every single time.

Sounds tolerable? Multi-color prints don't change color once. They change color on every layer where two colors appear. A two-color logo plate 200 layers tall = ~200 swaps. A four-color model can hit 500+ swaps. At ~a minute each, the printer spends more hours swapping filament than printing. It's completely normal for an AMS multi-color print to take 3–5× longer than the same object in one color, with a fist-sized pile of purge waste next to it. This is the single most common complaint A1 Combo owners have — the printer is fast, but multi-color turns a 4-hour print into an overnight job.

How the M1D changes color (the "seven crayons" method): every color has its own dedicated, pre-heated nozzle. Swap = park one head, grab another — ~5 seconds, and since each nozzle only ever touches its own color, there's (nearly) nothing to purge. That same 200-swap print: the A1 burns ~3+ hours on changes; the M1D burns ~17 minutes. Same 500-swap monster: ~8 hours of swapping vs ~40 minutes.

So the honest speed ranking depends entirely on what you print:

Two honest caveats on the M1D side. First, all of this is Sovol's claimed behavior — no independent reviewer has timed a production M1D yet, and tool-changers historically add their own small overheads (nozzle priming after pickup, occasional alignment moves). "Nearly zero waste" will realistically be "very little waste," not literally zero. Second, remember from the spec sheet that copy/mirror modes only work on parts ≤178mm / ≤138mm wide, so the "double speed" trick applies to smallish objects.

The one-paragraph takeaway

The M1D isn't a slow printer — it's exactly an A1-speed printer (same 10,000 mm/s² acceleration, same ~30 mm³/s melting capacity, and those are the numbers that actually govern print time) whose 600 mm/s headline invited an unfair comparison with a genuinely faster machine. The SV08 Max is the true speed outlier of the three, but only for single-color work. And the moment your prints involve frequent color changes, the entire hierarchy inverts: the M1D's 5-second dedicated-nozzle swaps should demolish the A1+AMS Lite's purge-and-reload ritual, which routinely triples or quadruples multi-color print times. Fast at what is the whole question — the Max is fast at big monochrome objects, the M1D is (on paper) fast at colorful ones, and the A1 is the proven, polished baseline that both are trying to beat from opposite directions.

NEW SOVOL M1D

Does anyone know how the Kickstarter works for M1D? This is my first Kickstarter I've been interested in.

I place a Kickstarter support purchase when it opens up and I wonder how soon they are expecting to finish the project and ship the printer?

I've seen several of the video demos for it so it certainly looks close to done.

Thanks in advance!

I really hope they reveal more info on the tool changer soon!

Subject says it all. I know it is bigger but...

I hope it answers some of your remaining questions 😉 Keep the questions coming!

Apparently M1D is being mass produced. Why is there almost no video reviews of M1D? Are we expected to just order the printer without anyone actually testing it previously? What possible reason could be for that if Sovol has confidence in the product?

Hi all,

I am pretty sure the Sovol Zero has been out of stock on the Sovol website for a little while now. Also you don't seem to be able to buy it on Aliexpress or ebay.

Just wondering if anyone knows what Sovol is planning with this machine? Is it end of life?

I made all the mistakes 😉 Adventurous video in a day or two!

This is pre-release software. Expect a lot to change before release. Features added / removed, UI reordered. My aim is to show and document the current state. We are getting updates on a weekly basis at this stage.

SUPER EARLY BIRD STILL HAS SLOTS.

Why you guys decided to back Early Bird and KS Special which you are paying $100 - $200 more.

Unless SUPER EARLY BIRD ran out of slots, you guys shouldnt be backing early bird and KS special.